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As much as I love our M6 there is one thing I hate about it and I can't get over it, how horrible it sounds from a cold start.

Here is a perfect example, move to the 2:37 minute mark 2014 Mazda 6 iGrand Touring Startup, Engine & Tour - YouTube

I was showing some friends from work my car and of course they made comments about it. My only respond was it gets quiet rather quickly. I thought it was kind of embarrassing and definitely didn't make a good first impression.
 

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As much as I love our M6 there is one thing I hate about it and I can't get over it, how horrible it sounds from a cold start.

Here is a perfect example, move to the 2:37 minute mark 2014 Mazda 6 iGrand Touring Startup, Engine & Tour - YouTube

I was showing some friends from work my car and of course they made comments about it. My only respond was it gets quiet rather quickly. I thought it was kind of embarrassing and definitely didn't make a good first impression.
I wouldn't say it's embarrassing, but it's far from tough sounding. Mazda cites the long warm-up period and the cold engine "idiot light" to be related to emission standards, if I remember correctly from the manual.

Not much I can think of to improve it, as it's related to the RPMs hovering higher.

Also, acceleration (obviously not on a cold engine) sounds good, and this is without any mods.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBs-quSJ4rQ
 

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I really don't mind that sound even if it might be a bit loud, i see it as a distinct character of the new skyactiv mazdas. I remember once hearing this sound, i was like hey it sounds familiar, turns around, its a new mazda 6 that just started up. be proud of it lol. According to mazda the engine retards timing 20 degrees during accelerated warmup and the loud buzzing is fuel burning in the headers
 
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Strange, the idle looked kinda high on his startup too. Mine doesnt idle that high on initial start... But it had just snowed recently in the video.... So it could be partly due to cold.

I'd say try some moly in the oil. May smooth things out. I poured a full bottle in mine when I changed my oil last time.
 

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When it drops below 40 out (which is has 99% of nights since November and still is), the car does its quick warmup and it kills me. I can't stand hearing the engine gargling and rattling the exhaust. The colder it is out, the worse the noise gets.

Not much we can do about it though as it's emissions related.
 

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Fuck em if they have a problem with it. they can go buy their own engine with whatever car they want. we know this is not an amazing engine. That's not what the car is about.

in other news, I was told that these days you don't need to warm up your car if it's cold, you can just get in, start it, and go. That's what I've been doing with my Honda of course unless its like 0 degrees in the car sounds weird then I wait a little bit and take it really slow at first. But I hope I'm not making a huge sacrifice by not going with Honda again. are you supposed to get in your car and wait until the light goes away if its a cold day? Or is that only in extreme circumstances? Or do you drive the car but just take it easy until the light goes off? My Honda never sounded different unless it was extreme temperatures.
 

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Isn't that just the sound of a direct injection engine? I drove a Hyundai Veloster before and it sounded very similar upon start up.
Fuck em if they have a problem with it. they can go buy there own engine with whatever car they want. we know this is not an amazing engine. That's not what the car is about.
The sound is because of direct injection, but the hi-revving startup on cold days is not, it's by design to get the engine warmed up as fast as possible.

On cold days, I can hear my car out in my driveway with closed windows/doors no problem, it's certainly not as elegant as the car presents itself.

On REALLY cold days, the mufflers rattle very loudly and it makes the car sound like it's almost misfiring.
 

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in other news, I was told that these days you don't need to warm up your car if it's cold, you can just get in, start it, and go. That's what I've been doing with my Honda of course unless its like 0 degrees in the car sounds weird then I wait a little bit and take it really slow at first. But I hope I'm not making a huge sacrifice by not going with Honda again. are you supposed to get in your car and wait until the light goes away if its a cold day? Or is that only in extreme circumstances? Or do you drive the car but just take it easy until the light goes off? My Honda never sounded different unless it was extreme temperatures.
Mazda designed the cars to rev high on cold startup to help the car's emissions, but you're fine just getting in it and going (unless it's really cold out like you said).

The blue light is indicate of the engine not being 100% ready to go, but that doesn't' mean it's not drivable.

Don't forget, your'e not in Honda territory anymore, these cars are made for Drivers and enthusiasts and should be treated as such :)
 

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Yeah, I don't like the sound either, but I've grown used to it. Heh, the first time I heard I really noticed it was when I was showing it to my GF at the dealership. Wrong first impression from the car.
 

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Definitely a bad impression, and for some days that "gargle" lasted me 10 minutes (15 degrees or less some days this winter).

Wish there was a way to make it sound better.
 

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All my Mazda's have done this. Add insulation to the engine bay firewall and hood, it will help.
 
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Also, the fuel economy is terrible during the accelerated warm-up.

On the plus side though, when you run in to do a quick errand and come back to start-up while the engine is still warm it's almost whisper quiet.
 

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Mazda designed the cars to rev high on cold startup to help the car's emissions, but you're fine just getting in it and going (unless it's really cold out like you said).

The blue light is indicate of the engine not being 100% ready to go, but that doesn't' mean it's not drivable.

Don't forget, your'e not in Honda territory anymore, these cars are made for Drivers and enthusiasts and should be treated as such :)
How so? You told me I can drive it just like I drive my current car, so that last comment throws me off.
 

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Strange sound for the catalytic converter warmup

Hi,

The strange sound during starting up from cold is normal and it is for the warm up process of the catalytic converter. It should only be heard with a cold engine.

I have a 6 speed manual and the sound stops when the car is moving and starts again I stop the car.

Here is the explanation (this document was shared by one of our fellow forum members):

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-sY4-KaDJV-a0kzRXVwZ1ZVY0E/preview

Attila
 

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don't ever think about buying a high performance car.. especially one with any aftermarket cams/head-work or even valve springs if you think the 6 sounds rough on start-up, tick tick tick clack clack burble burble baby :p. Definitely no turbo car's either.. the banshee whine on cold mornings will drive you off your rocker.

I really don't even notice the garble you guys are talking about at start-up, just that it revs a bit higher... sounds like any sport-bike I've owned on a cold start *shrug* (FWIW it gets over it MUCH faster though)
 

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don't ever think about buying a high performance car.. especially one with any aftermarket cams/head-work or even valve springs if you think the 6 sounds rough on start-up, tick tick tick clack clack burble burble baby :p. Definitely no turbo car's either.. the banshee whine on cold mornings will drive you off your rocker.

I really don't even notice the garble you guys are talking about at start-up, just that it revs a bit higher... sounds like any sport-bike I've owned on a cold start *shrug* (FWIW it gets over it MUCH faster though)
Lol! Start it and walk around to the hood.

A cold stroker is one of worst offenders IMO

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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My outgoing car is a VW Jetta with a VR6 motor and VW had a "glorified hairdryer" air pump that basically ran for 30-60 seconds on start up to blow contaminants out the Cat. the real slap in the face is the air pump itself was $900 to replace brand new, and another $300 for the combination valve that pulled in air to it. It was annoying but you live with it. For all the EPA standards that modern cars have to comply with this is to be expected.
 
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