Hi guys, I just want to share my experience from today with my 2004 2.0 diesel mazda 6 GY... My EGR was also making noise passing through 2000rpm. No lights, no errors, just noise. Decided to clean it myself. I had a lot of trouble removing those studs, but managed after I "shaved" one nut and bolted it with another in oposite direction. After that it was a brezze. Cleand it with owen and stove carbon cleaner and brake cleaner because I couldn't find carb cleaner nowhere. Afther thorough cleaning I got the metalic shine inside and refited it again with high hopes thst the noise will dissapear. But to my disapointment the noise is still there. I checked the Egr valve with handheld vacuum pump and noticed that it starts opening at around 400mm/hg of vacuum which is above what is stated in service manual, which says that it should start opening at 150mm/hg. Since it is still working, and I don't have any problems other than a bit of noise on 2000rpm, i will leave it for now, but i plan to remove it completely and shut the intake port with metal sheet. I wonder how will this effect the engine, but since I have Mazda vcm and Ids (cloned mazda diagnostics workstation) I can carefuly inspect error codes and shut them if they appear. I know that pcm remap should be also done, but there is nobody able to do that here I am from Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina) so i will first try without it. So thebconclusion is that these Egr valved do fail, but after 10 years it can be expected..
Regarding this taction issue, I cant find any link with EGR an traction control other than vacuum leak, or vacuum pump fail. Since both egr and brakes operate on vacuum, it is ridiculous to change egr without inspecting vacuume leaks/ vacuum pump. If egr doesn't work but is not leaking vacuum it has nothing to do with traction control. But if vacuum is leaking than you have problems with traction, egr, swirl control, shutr valve and variable turbo control since all of this is vacuum operated. Sorry for errors in spelling, I'm writing from my mobile phone.. Regards...Hi Fordman - just wondered if you got anywhere with this? I had the engine and traction control light come on, and the diagnostics said "replace EGR". I had it removed and cleaned and replaced for me, but the lights came on again after a few miles. I have since had the EGR replaced at a cost of £350, but again the lights came on after a few miles (I might add that the car was also stalling occassionally when idle, which the EGR replacement fixed). Since then, I have forked out another £400 to have some corroded solenoids replaced, but once again the lights came on after about 20 miles!!
I am now stuck as to what to do, as I can't afford to throw good money after bad to try and fix this...
I’ve striped my EGR off the car, removed the electric’s from the valve and boiled the valve in Caustic soda, twenty minutes later the valve is carbon free, no scrubbing, result!!Well I don't confess to know anything about cars, but i have been experiencing a noise, which i think may be similar, I did start a thread refering to engine noise in this same category on the forum.
I have just had my car serviced the 87500 one and I asked the guy about it, he said that it might be the turbo, as it is around that time when it kicks in, tho my noise does happen slightly before 2000 and around it depending on which gear im in.
I have booked my car in seeing as I have the turbo on warranty, so it will be interesting to see whether it is this EGR thingy that your talking about that needs cleaning or whether its the turbo.
I may have to look in to this cleaning spray thingy that you mentioned, do you have a name or a website i could try for it? seeing as it appears they dont do this on a service.
I will let you know what the guy says whether its the turbo or not, or whetehr he dont have a clue. lol