EGR valve. Remove, clean, refit
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QUOTE (dicky101 @ Jun 4 2008, 07:51 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1361847
before you go spending time & effort taking the egr valve off. Have you tried egr cleaner. You spray it directly in to the air intake, I've had some good results with it & you can get it from any tidy motor factors. got to be worth a shot first.
before you go spending time & effort taking the egr valve off. Have you tried egr cleaner. You spray it directly in to the air intake, I've had some good results with it & you can get it from any tidy motor factors. got to be worth a shot first.
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Use a stud remover or similar to unscrew the studs holding the EGR valve on - much easier than trying to move that pipe! You may well find that the valve is stuck part open, just hung up on some carbon deposits. Removal and cleaning can make a BIG difference, my mpg dropped to approx 35mpg (measured over several tanks of fuel from several different garages), then went right back up after cleaning. Smokes less after a cold start too.
QUOTE (madlandrover @ Jun 6 2008, 01:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1363565
Appreciate the replies. The fuel consumption on mine is now at around 36 – 40mpg. Its not smoking that much yet but it hunts through the revs at idle and “rings” when you pass through 2000rpm.
The garage has quoted £227 for a new part and £56 to fit. Of course vat is extra. I’ll give the stud remover & clean ago, could save a packet.
Appreciate the replies. The fuel consumption on mine is now at around 36 – 40mpg. Its not smoking that much yet but it hunts through the revs at idle and “rings” when you pass through 2000rpm.
The garage has quoted £227 for a new part and £56 to fit. Of course vat is extra. I’ll give the stud remover & clean ago, could save a packet.
QUOTE (dicky101 @ Jun 9 2008, 04:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1365184
Took the studs out by using a smaller nut than that which is present and a further loocking nut on top, this worked a treat to get the studs out of the block. Soaked the valve in Comma diesel magic injecter cleaner over night Then using carb cleaner and a small toothbrush cleaned the entire inside of the unit.
Currently returning 40 mpg (11.2litres/100miles), possibly more power than before, but the ringing is still present as you pass through 2000rpm.
On inspection of the valve stem I found some grooving, I think its possible that the ringing is coming from a staggering motion as the valve moves due to these grooves.
So I guess this means a replacement part is needed. If anyone can advice as to where to find a cheaper part than from a dealer please let me know.
As an after thought the low-ish mpg could also be due to a failing MAF sensor. How could I tell?
Took the studs out by using a smaller nut than that which is present and a further loocking nut on top, this worked a treat to get the studs out of the block. Soaked the valve in Comma diesel magic injecter cleaner over night Then using carb cleaner and a small toothbrush cleaned the entire inside of the unit.
Currently returning 40 mpg (11.2litres/100miles), possibly more power than before, but the ringing is still present as you pass through 2000rpm.
On inspection of the valve stem I found some grooving, I think its possible that the ringing is coming from a staggering motion as the valve moves due to these grooves.
So I guess this means a replacement part is needed. If anyone can advice as to where to find a cheaper part than from a dealer please let me know.
As an after thought the low-ish mpg could also be due to a failing MAF sensor. How could I tell?
Well I don't confess to know anything about cars, but i have been experiencing a noise, which i think may be similar, I did start a thread refering to engine noise in this same category on the forum.
I have just had my car serviced the 87500 one and I asked the guy about it, he said that it might be the turbo, as it is around that time when it kicks in, tho my noise does happen slightly before 2000 and around it depending on which gear im in.
I have booked my car in seeing as I have the turbo on warranty, so it will be interesting to see whether it is this EGR thingy that your talking about that needs cleaning or whether its the turbo.
I may have to look in to this cleaning spray thingy that you mentioned, do you have a name or a website i could try for it? seeing as it appears they dont do this on a service.
I will let you know what the guy says whether its the turbo or not, or whetehr he dont have a clue. lol
I have just had my car serviced the 87500 one and I asked the guy about it, he said that it might be the turbo, as it is around that time when it kicks in, tho my noise does happen slightly before 2000 and around it depending on which gear im in.
I have booked my car in seeing as I have the turbo on warranty, so it will be interesting to see whether it is this EGR thingy that your talking about that needs cleaning or whether its the turbo.
I may have to look in to this cleaning spray thingy that you mentioned, do you have a name or a website i could try for it? seeing as it appears they dont do this on a service.
I will let you know what the guy says whether its the turbo or not, or whetehr he dont have a clue. lol
Hi,
I have an engine check light on the dash of my 2.0l Diesel 2004 Mazda 6. I took it to a dealer who said it was the EGR valve but reset the fault codes in the ECU and told me to run it to see if it came back. The light has now come back on and instead for paying the quoted £500!! to replace the part I was wondering if I could try cleaning it. I was wondering if anyone can point out the location of the EGR valve and if there is anything I need to know before taking it off and cleaning it.
Thanks in advance!
I have an engine check light on the dash of my 2.0l Diesel 2004 Mazda 6. I took it to a dealer who said it was the EGR valve but reset the fault codes in the ECU and told me to run it to see if it came back. The light has now come back on and instead for paying the quoted £500!! to replace the part I was wondering if I could try cleaning it. I was wondering if anyone can point out the location of the EGR valve and if there is anything I need to know before taking it off and cleaning it.
Thanks in advance!
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The Mazda 6's EGR valve needs rarely to be replaced, unlike other cars. Usually you only need to clean it. At least this is what my service provider states. So far they only replaced one EGR valve, some time in 2005. I refer to the RF5C engines, those between '02-'05.
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egr valve problem
The other day the engine light and the traction control light came on.
Investigation on the net and at my local Mazda dealership concluded that it was the EGR valve at fault.
I thought the first action would be the trick of using carb cleaner in the air intake.
The first squirt and the engine went racing away. I have tried a couple more squirts but I am a bit nervous; how long should I inject the cleaner for? It is a 600ml can.
The lights are still on but I guess that even if I have cured the problem they may stay on until it is reset.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a cheap diagnostic box? Various ones are available on ebay but I am not sure which one is best.
Kevin
The other day the engine light and the traction control light came on.
Investigation on the net and at my local Mazda dealership concluded that it was the EGR valve at fault.
I thought the first action would be the trick of using carb cleaner in the air intake.
The first squirt and the engine went racing away. I have tried a couple more squirts but I am a bit nervous; how long should I inject the cleaner for? It is a 600ml can.
The lights are still on but I guess that even if I have cured the problem they may stay on until it is reset.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a cheap diagnostic box? Various ones are available on ebay but I am not sure which one is best.
Kevin
Sorry for my total lack of knowledge here. Could you post a screen shot, on how to do this. I currently have the Traction & Engine Light on, have done for some time now, and have had it tested, and the fault code is the EGR Valve. Been quoted, like somebody else on here, £500 + vat.
I have heard of cleaning it, taking it apart, but never heard of this method, but even I think I can spray stuff, just need to know where.
Apologies, but thanks for any help / advice
Hi Fordman - just wondered if you got anywhere with this? I had the engine and traction control light come on, and the diagnostics said "replace EGR". I had it removed and cleaned and replaced for me, but the lights came on again after a few miles. I have since had the EGR replaced at a cost of £350, but again the lights came on after a few miles (I might add that the car was also stalling occassionally when idle, which the EGR replacement fixed). Since then, I have forked out another £400 to have some corroded solenoids replaced, but once again the lights came on after about 20 miles!!
I am now stuck as to what to do, as I can't afford to throw good money after bad to try and fix this...
I am now stuck as to what to do, as I can't afford to throw good money after bad to try and fix this...
In mid 2009 I had the same porblem, and my dealer said as with everone else that the EGR valve would need to be replaced. So like a nob I paid up almost £400 for a new valve, clearing the problem. About 1 month later the lights came on again, went back to the dealer who replaced the valve again. That lasted another month, and started all over again.
I did a little searching on the net to find that this was getting a more and more common fault with Mazda 6's built between 2003 and 2005, and was not as quoted by Mazda dealers as a EGR fault but something to do with fitting the wrong size and thickness of gasket on the EGR, they changed it for a larger gasket and all was fine for a month, and then it started all over again. They fitted a larger gasket and for the last two years it has been fine, up until this weekend, when the lights have been flashing on and off for 3 days now. Booked it in for a diag and will post what the report is, betcha they say it is a faulty EGR again, I will be not falling for that one again. Apparently Mazda have known all along there has been a fault on some vehicles and have not seen it to be serious enough to do a factory recall.
I did a little searching on the net to find that this was getting a more and more common fault with Mazda 6's built between 2003 and 2005, and was not as quoted by Mazda dealers as a EGR fault but something to do with fitting the wrong size and thickness of gasket on the EGR, they changed it for a larger gasket and all was fine for a month, and then it started all over again. They fitted a larger gasket and for the last two years it has been fine, up until this weekend, when the lights have been flashing on and off for 3 days now. Booked it in for a diag and will post what the report is, betcha they say it is a faulty EGR again, I will be not falling for that one again. Apparently Mazda have known all along there has been a fault on some vehicles and have not seen it to be serious enough to do a factory recall.
Hi fatnose, thanks for the post, please do let us know what the outcome is!
My car has (touch wood) actually been ok since I posted, it went through a phase of stalling a few times but that seems to have gone away for the time being. Haven't bothered having the lights reset, as I bet they'd come back on so the issue remains unresolved for me...
My car has (touch wood) actually been ok since I posted, it went through a phase of stalling a few times but that seems to have gone away for the time being. Haven't bothered having the lights reset, as I bet they'd come back on so the issue remains unresolved for me...
Went to the dealers last week with a little trepidation thinking I was going be shafted again with the EGR is Kaput line. Dealer had it for 2 hours, had the EGR off and the solonid off. The fault codes were p0401 EGR system insufficient flow detected and p0402 EGR excessive flow detected at idle. They cleaned the EGR valve but stated it was clean. Took the solonid and ran it on a test rig, no problems were found. So they have cleared the fault codes and its back with me, with no true work done. The guys at the dealership still have no real idea what the issue is. Deep joy...all the fun of owning a Mazda.
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wont rev mazda 6ts
hi have mazda 6 .ts .2003
fitted pump car ticks over ..wont rev .changed scv ..had three ..still not rev ..new turbo ..cleaned t/body had it off clean 4 flaps..put back on still not rev
should the egr vale open when i rev ..
i should say the sounds like a bag of bottles like valves hitting pistons ..as if was about to throw a piston ..scarry..timming perfect..
had head of to check if valves was hitting ..seems ok ..only thing i did see was when i was checking pistons was no1 piston seems higher up than the 4th piston ..was at tdc ...any body know if this is right as i thought they should both come up to the same height..1 and 4 ...new gasket fitted ..
started again and still the same .banging noise ..noticed that injectors no 1-2 had no 14 on them ..and injectors 3-4 had no 12on them ...is this right ..why dif nos ..
dont know why it will not rev ...do i have to get car code reset for car to rev up as im all out of cash now david
hi have mazda 6 .ts .2003
fitted pump car ticks over ..wont rev .changed scv ..had three ..still not rev ..new turbo ..cleaned t/body had it off clean 4 flaps..put back on still not rev
should the egr vale open when i rev ..
i should say the sounds like a bag of bottles like valves hitting pistons ..as if was about to throw a piston ..scarry..timming perfect..
had head of to check if valves was hitting ..seems ok ..only thing i did see was when i was checking pistons was no1 piston seems higher up than the 4th piston ..was at tdc ...any body know if this is right as i thought they should both come up to the same height..1 and 4 ...new gasket fitted ..
started again and still the same .banging noise ..noticed that injectors no 1-2 had no 14 on them ..and injectors 3-4 had no 12on them ...is this right ..why dif nos ..
dont know why it will not rev ...do i have to get car code reset for car to rev up as im all out of cash now david
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EGR valve cleaning
Hi, I have read the above thread and was just wondering where abouts the studs are on the EGR valve? I have cleaned out the valve twice but was I just looking an easier way of doing it. Thanks.
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