Mazda 6 Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Long list of replaced parts: EGR, all plugs, all coils, all cats/O2 sensors. EGR outlet cleaned thoroughly. TB as well.

MIL codes: P0401, P2227 P2144

Looks like I'll be doing the EGR reroute just to be sure, but what the heck? Could a new EGR valve already be bad?
If everything is new, do the codes matter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A bit more research and found some MPVs of the same vintage were getting this as the result of the EGR solenoid. Where is that buddy?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
It sounds like the problem is with the pressure sensor. It could be bad or have a wiring problem. the pressure sensor is what the vacuum line from the EGR valve goes to. It's mounted on the firewall behind the intake manifold towards the drivers side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.
I think I've read about someone else having issues with that part.
 

·
Rally Racer
2004 Mazda 6s Wagon ATX
Joined
·
4,625 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So the one on the right is the boost solenoid and on the left is the baro sensor? That last one threw me. I mean, what the heck does a terrestrial vehicle need a barometric sensor for? Appropriate engine efficiency for when you are idling on a freeway with 1.5 million other cars during a hurricane evac?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, this discussion is not yet closed. Last month I ended up at Pull-A-Part for the V70 - body panels...don't ask. Anyway, I pulled a couple visor clips, since the stays always break and my driver's visor won't stay in place, AND the baro sensor and boost solenoid. Put them on my car immediately and can report back that there is no difference in behavior. Still cycles on for 100-200 miles, then goes off for some time before it does it all over again. Likely that both that car and my car have bad solenoids? Sure, but since I can't find new ones, I can't prove it, and the probability is still high enough that its a different issue, so I'm back to taking advice, if anyone wants to make suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Only other thing I can think of is a clogged cat. Might cause enough back pressure into the EGR valve that the pressure sensor will have a high reading out of spec. The sensor is looking for a value that is lower than manifold vacuum but higher than atmosphere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK all, new question: why would I get these EGR codes if the tank is full? I need to keep track better, but this on-off may correlate to fuel level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Back to this puzzler. It appears to not be related to the tank fuel level. I swapped back to my original parts on the firewall and the MIL light has been steady although the tank has gotten filled and is now down to 1/4. I am about to pull all 4 corners apart and do the major 222,000 mile suspension work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Wondering if it's actually your tank pressure sensor that is bad? I know doesn't seem right but that's the only thing I can think of. The codes on these cars do suck and can have multiple meanings. I kept getting a bad cam sensor code I couldn't fix. Turns out it throws the same code for the cam timing being off as it does for a bad sensor. so dumb.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top