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Discussion Starter #1
I thought that our cars have 220 to the crank if so think we must have a hellava drivetrain loss if we are getting about 160-170 to the wheels? why is that? Since the CP-E intake is suppoed to give 15-20 hp then we should be about 190-200 to the wheels but i am not seeing that? i have not seen to many 05 dynos so i was wondering if there is a year that the 6S's MTX where faster than other years? i have a few more questions but i wanted to start with these. Hell me out a little here.
 

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I dont get why though how we can lose so much hp from 220 :\
 

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Discussion Starter #5
this is where i think that we should be stock but i have seen guys with work done that have less hp. i was hopeing that with the CP-e it would be about 190+ to the wheels. i just can't wait til i get to the track and also get to the dyno to see what my car has. i only have 1000 mile on my car today. So i want to dyno it about 2000. http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about3316.html
 

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Originally posted by arch4life@Oct 21 2005, 07:25 PM
drivetrain loss is fairly normal, the engine is overrated.
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True, this is the reason for the new HP rating system for new cars. Hence the new civic SI with the same engine as the RSX type-s that was over 200 HP, now its rated at 197. Until manufacturers report in WHP these numbers really mean next to nothing, IMO.
 

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Drivetrain loss and the fact timing retard occurs prior to the fans ever coming on.

There are people who have dyno'ed more than that stock and it was attributed to them breaking their engine in the right way, hard. Daimler-Chrysler recommends all of their vehicles to be broken in hard to meet the measured power output.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by 84FordMan@Oct 22 2005, 02:37 AM
Drivetrain loss and the fact timing retard occurs prior to the fans ever coming on.

There are people who have dyno'ed more than that stock and it was attributed to them breaking their engine in the right way, hard. Daimler-Chrysler recommends all of their vehicles to be broken in hard to meet the measured power output.
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so you are say that i should the the crap out of my car to get the highest HP out of it? also are these guys dynoing with 87,89 or 91 plus octane? i currently am running 93 and am going to do that from here on out.
 

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Originally posted by charles@Oct 21 2005, 08:52 PM
so you are say that i should the the crap out of my car to get the highest HP out of it? also are these guys dynoing with 87,89 or 91 plus octane? i currently am running 93 and am going to do that from here on out.
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:search:

DO NOT run anything higher than 87. It's POINTLESS! Timing gets FURTHER retarded to compensate for 89 and especially 93.

The engine break-in has to start when there are 0 miles on the engine. When you get past break-in, it's just pointless to run the dog shit out of it. We disproved the "factory freaks" myth who were dyno'ing higher than anyone else stock, when they all admitted to breaking the engine in hard.
 

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I dyno'd @ 190whp with just the Injen (no CP-E fix) and some heavy-ass 18" wheels; higher than many dyno with the CP-E and only 15whp shy of a guy who dyno'd right after me with CP-E, Headers, lightweight wheels, and exhaust.

What'd I do "different" than most? Beat the piss out of it from Day One. Screw the Grandma Break-In Method.

AND ONLY RUN 87 OCTANE!
 

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So then, what I take from this is that unless we beat the shit out of our cars from the very beginning during break-in, we will never be able to milk out that extra horsepower?
 

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I think the key is varying more then beating the piss out of. People tend to try and baby the car for the first 600 miles...keeping it under a certain rpm, taking forever to accelerate, etc etc.

If you don't go through the ENTIRE rev range, its akin to only working out your chest and arms in weight lifting.

Ever see those guys with big chests and tiny legs? lol

Of course its not that good of an analogy, but you get the point.

I dyno'd 165 stock with the jatco 6s ATX, which is pretty freaking high, considering some people dyno'd less with exhaust and intake mods. I just varied, no cruise control, no hard starts or stops...just varied rpm's nearly constantly, and made sure to use the entire right pedal :).

Now on the MTX...since I couldn't drive whatsoever, I pretty much beat the living piss out of it. (Unintentionally of course). Takes awhile to learn the adaptive clutch engagement of the car....and there were quite a few lights on the first day where I went flying off the line with WAY too many rpms....hahaha so much fun.

So in conclusion...I agree with 84ford and Sigma, but add my own avoiding hard starts and stops. Accelerate "smoothly" throughout the rev range, and make sure to use the whole pedal stroke under the right foot! No cruise control! Cruise control is the DEVIL!
 

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Originally posted by speedracer6@Oct 22 2005, 01:44 PM
How does this happen?
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Maybe I have it backwards, I remember the current gen Accords that take premium only, if you put in regular they compensated through timing adjustments.
 

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My car has 280 miles on it now and it sees redline twice a dayish...

I far from beat the hell out of it, but I vary the RPM's a lot, and let it have it in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd...

I do not believe in the baby break in... because it seems to make the engine lazy...

Got my car with 2 miles on it BTW, maybe a dyno soon to see what it makes...

Oh, and this is the 4th duratec I have broken in this way and all of my others have made more power than other standard cars...
 

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Originally posted by 84FordMan@Oct 22 2005, 02:38 PM
Maybe I have it backwards, I remember the current gen Accords that take premium only, if you put in regular they compensated through timing adjustments.
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Yeah, they'll retard if you go from Premium to 87 because of knock, not vice versa.
 

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