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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So am getting ready to move my battery to the trunk as part of my stereo install... I am using Stinger 0/1 guage wire for the positive and the same for the neg side. My question is do I have to run the ground to the front of the car or can I just sand off some paint in the trunk and mount my ground there? I am using the nice metal ground mount included in the kit.
 

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you would want to keep your grounds as short as possible, so cleaning a spot in the trunk near the battery would be good, an additional one maybe to the frame could help too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, thats what I thought... also do I need a separate ground for my amp or can I splice into the battery ground?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
do you recommend that I run two batteries or is one yellow top and a capacitor good enough?
 

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The capacitor isn't necessary either, if you've done everything else correctly.[/b]

what do you mean?? no cap??
if you run alot of power wont the subs dim your light everytime it beats...
 

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what do you mean?? no cap??
if you run alot of power wont the subs dim your light everytime it beats...[/b]
caps are bandaids for electrical issues. I haven't run a cap since my first system 10 years ago. that includes running a 1300 watt amp on a stock sunfire electrical system, with only a yellow top and a single upgraded ground.
 

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tell me more about the upgraded ground and yellow top... i dont know much about audio...
also, where can i get it??
 

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tell me more about the upgraded ground and yellow top... i dont know much about audio...
also, where can i get it??[/b]

for upgraded ground I had a couple pieces of 2 ga from ground to chassis under the hood. the yellow top is an optima yellow top battery, it isn't necessary for most people because it is a deep cycle battery
 

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yellow top battery... doesnt it charge itself up??

im gonna do dat
 

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yellow top is the deep cycle version optima. it is designed to be drained completely and then recharged multiple times. the better choice would be the red top.
 

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2003 Mazda 6s
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I realize this is an old thread but I am trying to follow the newbie guide by posting in a relevant existing thread rather than starting yet another.

Questions
#1 When the charging system is functioning correctly, will a 2003 6s charge the battery while running at idle and parked?
#2 Is there a low voltage cutoff in the case of a damaged battery?

I have a battery too low for my smart charger to except. It is at 8v and the charger requires 9.5.
 

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1. Yes, the vehicle will charge the battery while at idle and parked. When the alternator is running it should output sufficient amperage and voltage to provide the battery a positive charge.

Do a simple test w/multi-meter. Alternator should put out a constant and consistent voltage of 13.6-14.6v.

2. I don't think the 1st gen 6 has that, someone correct or confirm that...

If you have another good 12v battery available, you can connect the "bad" battery in parallel w/it and have your charger connected to the better battery. Let the charger work for about 30minutes or until the "bad" battery's voltage get high enough for your charger.
 

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Thanks! I didn't think about the dual battery charge. I've got a short in the car but have to have the battery charged to begin testing.
 

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Theres no safety cut off on the 1G's, but on the 3G's there is cause of the Start button system. It wont start below 10.5V. Id bet your engine harness is shot, mine developed that issue when i had the head gaskets replaced, would kill a new battery in a day of not running.
 

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Would locating the parasitic drain through the fuse method make sense or should I replace the wiring at this age? It has sat for a few years and I am replacing hoes and seals. I wouldn't mind going the extra step to replace the harness if that would save headaches in the future.

Also, I have heard someone managed to install a battery cutoff switch. I have used them on motorcycles and old vehicles but what negative effects could that have on a computerized car?

This battery lasted 18hrs. At least it was a warranty replacement.
 
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