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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all... useful forum I have to say!!

Righty hoy so I've been researching like crazy and reading all the horror stories about the Mazda 6 DPF and yup I'm another sucker who bought one second hand (auction) without doing my research first... but as I'm a keen amateur mechanic (bodger more like) I am determined to get to the bottom of things so here's the story so far.

Purchased 55 plate Mazda 6 TDI with 140k on the clock from auctions for my sister. The drive home exposed a knackered bush in the n/s/f back suspension arm and a general lack of power that I put down to it being a diesel estate. A quick read of the paperwork once home showed that a new (recon) engine and turbo had been fitted around 30k ago so I was rather chuffed with my purchase (both still in warranty).

So an oil service later the DPF light starts flashing... a bit of research and I reset the "service indicator" using the guide here:

Tips and Tricks for MAZDA 6 (GH) 2.0D MZR-CD (RF-Turbo) 2007 - 09. - www.cdn.dk

DPF light goes away and all seems well (baring suspension arm).

So my sister has a nice time driving her new car to work (about 15 mile mix of A roads and town driving) and then the DPF light comes on flashing again. So I go through the reset cycle, tried to force a regen - the revs raised then fell so assumed it didn't need one. Also balanced the injectors which improved performance a bit. A couple of days later the DPF light starts flashing again and the EML lights up. Not impressed as you can imagine. So another set of resets and a battery off/on EML reset and things seem to go back to normal.

So off to the local Mazda dealer I pop (Lansdown in Bath) to get the codes read (have to say very helpful bunch in the workshop). Two codes were pulled - EGR not functioning correctly and turbo under-boost. So a conversation with the workshop manager and senior mechanic later and we come to the conclusion the EGR is most likely blocked and needs a clean out, probably sticking open resulting in low exhaust pressure and hence the low turbo output and DPF not getting hot enough to regen fully.

So the Saturday arrives - the suspension are gets replaced (Who the f**k designs a car that you have to drop the subframe on to get a suspension arm bolt out of!??) we strip off the throttle body and EGR giving both a full clean out including stripping the EGR fully and rebuilding.

After refitting things seem good... the handling greatly improved as a result of not having 5mm of play in the suspension bush and performance dramatically improved - I mean like driving a different car!

So I was all smiles and pretty chuffed with the 8 hours hard graft.

And now we're on Monday... the car gets my sister to work with no issues then drat the thing it pulls a EML and flashing DPF light on the way home (usual story, sat in traffic for a few minutes, pulls away and on come the lights).

So bit more research tonight and I realise that my local motor factors has sold me some "generic" diesel oil... GRRR! Needless to say I shall be on the phone tomorrow having a rather stern conversation which shall go along the lines of "that oil you sold me... its trashed my DPF! so what you going to do to compensate me eh?" After that I'll be draining out the wrong (10w40 cack) oil and replacing with the liquid gold that Mazda recommend! Then I'll be taking the DPF off and attacking it with a pressure washer.

If that all fails I'm off to Avon Tuning for a DPF removal and remap!

Any advise, comments, thoughts welcome.

Cheers!

Phil
 

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I work at Peterbilt. We have a DPF system on the trucks. If the DPF is full of soot. it will throw a code because the pressure in the DPF is above normal, and severe normal, then it will derate the motor.

Then we take the DPF out, measure the soot, if its out of spec it, we will service it. We put the DPF in a machine and that machine blows it out, remeasure it. if it passes. we put it back in. if it doesnt. we bake in a kiln for 12 hours at 1200 Degrees, blow it out again and measure it again.

You can force regen it all you want. but you need to service it. But remember You need Im talking about the semi truck DPF system. I dont know much about the Mazda Dpf systems.
 

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My DPF light started flashing.. rather than have a regen, i had a rejuvenation - this cleared all the soot out of the DPF.

Removing the DPF will cost around £600 and will enhance the performance of the car, however, it will need to be remapped.

has the oil and filter been changed recently? This can also cause the DPF light to flash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The DPF light is also the service indicator so will flash when service due unless reset (which I did). For the last two weeks we've had no recurrence of the DPF light just the EML coming on. The car doesn't go into limp mode with the EML on, drives just as well as ever.

So this weekend I'm changing the oil again - this time to the right stuff, not the generic 10w40 the factors sold me (and stupidly I didn't check!) inc oil filter change. I'll then be taking the DPF off and jet washing it out with fingers crossed I don't do it more harm than good!

If that makes no difference then I'm back to Mazda for another check of what code the EML is producing... Depending on the results of that I'll likely be off to AvonTuning to get the DPF removed (will chop it out the canister and weld it back up) and the ECU remapped for £400.
 

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Hi all, my DFP light started flashing yesterday on my Mazda 6 57 plate (still old shape). I have looked at the link Tips and Tricks for MAZDA 6 (GH) 2.0D MZR-CD (RF-Turbo) 2007 - 09. - www.cdn.dk - Christian Dybdal Nielsen and its looks similar but not the same, was this the same on your sisters 55 plate?
I'm sure its started flashing as i have done the last 2 services myself and have never reset the DPF. Just a bit uneasy about grounding the diagnostic port in case its slightly different on my car and cause more issues?
 

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Hi all, my DFP light started flashing yesterday on my Mazda 6 57 plate (still old shape). I have looked at the link Tips and Tricks for MAZDA 6 (GH) 2.0D MZR-CD (RF-Turbo) 2007 - 09. - www.cdn.dk - Christian Dybdal Nielsen and its looks similar but not the same, was this the same on your sisters 55 plate?
I'm sure its started flashing as i have done the last 2 services myself and have never reset the DPF. Just a bit uneasy about grounding the diagnostic port in case its slightly different on my car and cause more issues?

Any update on this question? i have just bought a smokey 55plate 2006 diesel saloon and am looking for info!!<_<
 

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Hi Mazzajo,

I have done this today, the fuse box is different but did it to the same pin top right.

And it worked, so far so good. did a 200 mile round trip and its seems ok. If it comes back on I will get it removed by sinspeed for £450.
 

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quick update, still fine now over 1000 miles, so must be a service reminder, having the same issue with the wife's mini, need to go to the dealers to reset the air bag light, however went on line and found a reset tool (B800) and it worked as well.
 

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Hi all another update, i got my DPF removed from my Maz6 TS 2006 143bhp at OMG Performance in Reading. Nice guy, took the filter out, will try and attach a picture of it, it was black! reset the engine management, and fitted elec gizmo's where the pressure sensors of the pre and post DPF are. has worked fine, quicker and more economical ever since!! £450 well spent!!
 

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Hello,
Having the "wrong" oil put into the car won't trash the DPF immediately. The "proper" oil has a low ash content. The DPF itself is designed to remove the soot from the exhaust, which can then be burned to carbon dioxide during passive regeneration (high load driving above 2000 RPM) or active regeneration (post injection of diesel), hence "cleaning" the filter. The problem with the "wrong" oil is that a relatively higher level of non combustible ash is generated, held on the DPF, and being non combustible will stay there and gradually clog the DPF. This will gradually happen over it's life (estimated to be 90,000 to 150,000 miles depending on what you done to the car). A regular oil will make this happen a bit quicker.

If you're a bit of an enthusiast, you could buy an ELM327 bluetooth OBDII device from Amazon, download the Torque Pro app onto your smartphone and log the engine data as you drive. If an active regeneration of the DPF is occurring you'll see the catalyst 2 temperature rise to the region of 550°C. It shouldn't be taken higher than this temperature because the precious metal coating (platinum) will coalesce on the surface (form "balls") much reducing it's effectiveness for helping burn off the soot.

How did cleaning the EGR system work out? It seems to have cured my 57 plate of the sudden power loss syndrome. My EGR valve and pipes were heavily clogged with soot.

Also be careful pressure washing DPFs. You have to dry them fairly quickly to avoid damage to the catalyst coating.
Cheers,
Paul.
 
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