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Discussion Starter #1
A couple of handy tools:

PB Blaster (MUST HAVE)
22mm o2 sensor socket
U joint for a socket set (you will use this at the turbo flange)
Re-thread tool (for the o2 sensors, the threads will likely be not so great anymore)


First and foremost, the number one thing that absolutely MUST be done before installing this piece is spraying PB Blaster on both o2 sensors, and all of the turbo flange bolts the night before.

In fact, if you spray all of the bolts 2 nights in a row or more, it would be to your benefit when installing this piece.

Know that the heatshield bolts are all relatively easy to get to w/ an 8 or 10mm ratcheting wrench.


If you have problems w/ removing the front o2 sensor, STOP and spray the bolts and go drink a beer. This sensor is much too expensive to strip and would hate to see that done.

Likewise, if the 2nd o2 sensor is giving you problems, know that this is a common 4 wire o2 sensor that can be had for under $100 from an exhaust shop w/ a bosch 4 wire white/white/gray/black wire replacement. You would have to splice the wires to that second o2 if you can't get it out.


TURBO FLANGE BOLTS:

The top three bolts are accessible from the top of the engine bay. The bolt closest to the firewall is easiest, then the middle top bolts is ok, and the top bolt closest to the engine is a pain in the ass and will require use of the U-joint w/ a deep 14mm socket.

We found that the two lower bolts to the turbo flange are easiest to get on with a wrench with one person lining up the wrench from underneath the car. and a person above cranking on the wrench to get it tight.

With the new dp on and as you are buttoning things up, watch where you place the top o2 sensor wire..meaning don't forget that it needs to be zip tied somewhere to keep it from laying on the hot DP.

If anyone has any questions about the install, feel free to PM me and I'll be happy to help as this isn't the easiest job but can be done.
 

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I would need that re-threading tool. Use to have them all over the place at Ford Motor Company.
 

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*cry* As much as I love my new DP.... GODDAMN that was a huge PITA... and I still don't think we got 2 of the manifold bolts as tight as they should be....

First off... CP-e's design leaves NO room for a socket to attach... its just not possible.... and there is just about no room to use a wrench... Like he said... one person from the top.. and another from the bottom can get some "finger" tightening done... as in we are using finger strength only....

All that being said... first test run was awsome... car seemed to pull like crazy... We broke the rear end loose for a second at one point =)

On my way home... I noticed a HUGE difference in how my BoV sounded... i'm not sure whats up.. i'm gonna check and make sure we got everything where it's supposed to be.... It used to be a short.. steady PSHHHHH when at full boost high RPMs.... or a few studdered PSHH at partial boost... However now... at partial or full boost... its a series of steady PSHHH... always... and it lasts 2-3x longer.... Hard to explain I plan on taking a sound clip.. its SOOOOO different.. and lasts sooo much longer than before....

Anyway....THANKS Sooo much to the other speed6er's that showed up to help and support the crazy Install... There was no way I could have gotten this done w/o help...
 

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Going to Acehardware store for that tool. They have it in stock. Yeah this mod is a MOFO PITA!! Hope the turbo upgrade isn't as painful.
 

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On my way home... I noticed a HUGE difference in how my BoV sounded... i'm not sure whats up.. i'm gonna check and make sure we got everything where it's supposed to be.... It used to be a short.. steady PSHHHHH when at full boost high RPMs.... or a few studdered PSHH at partial boost... However now... at partial or full boost... its a series of steady PSHHH... always... and it lasts 2-3x longer.... Hard to explain I plan on taking a sound clip.. its SOOOOO different.. and lasts sooo much longer than before....

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Do you have a boost gauge? If you do, are you holding consistent boost? I'm wondering if the sound you are hearing is boost leak - hose not tightened down enough somewhere putting everything back together? The downpipe did not change how my bpv sounded or acted after the install ( I also have the HKS).
 

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I would need that re-threading tool. Use to have them all over the place at Ford Motor Company.
[/b]
Anyone know the thread size/pitch on the O2 sensors?

Thanks for the details.

Adam
 

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^^^ No... however just about any shop should be able to tell you or find out... they are universal... Apparently just about every O2 sensor is the same thread size.... so yeah... just ask around / any shop =)

As for boost-leak... possibly... going to check stuff once I get rested up and finish some other junk... You'd think I would notice a performance hit... from having a leak... Maybe the re-circ hose is having issues.. pretty sure I tightended that bitch back down though
 

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^^^nice tool, but we're referring to the threads on the o2 sensor itself as those take a beating.
[/b]

Oh, I thought you were talking about the threads in the downpipe--I had alot of weld pops and little beads of metal in the bungs on my downpipe that I had to remove before I could even get the sensors to thread in.

I couldn't find a tap and die set that went large enough(die size is 18mm 1.5 thread pitch), so I just ended up using a small file to fix the threads on the upper sensor. I didn't have any issues at all with the lower sensor threads.
 

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Glad to hear it, so this is a 2 man job no question? What was total time? Did you have air tools or all hand tools?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
absolutely a two person job

Mix of hand tools and air tools.

Air tools will help w/ the upper motor mount 17mm bolts. Zings em right on and off.

Most of the job is hand tools though.

Heatshields - hand tools
Turbo manifold bolts - hand tools
14mm bolts to a bracket that holds the stock dp in place - air tools, but could be hand
Cat bolts - hand
Spring bolts to lower dp section - hand tools but air is faster


One side note and point of ease:

Having the car on a lift or on 4 jackstands will benefit you when you are putting the new DP into position to feed up under the car...it will give you much more clearance to manuever it into place.
 

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Glad to hear it, so this is a 2 man job no question? What was total time? Did you have air tools or all hand tools?
[/b]

I did the install by myself with only hand tools, on a lift. Working off and on throughout the day I think it took me around 4~5 hours(I did spend a little while fixing the threads in the DP). The install would have taken me much longer if I had to use jack stands.
 

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I just did the dp in the driveway with a friend today, it was a bear and we are both experienced wrench turners that mod and tune cars on the side. If you have any reservations about this mod I would suggest you find someone to do it for you but be prepared to pay as it takes alot of hours.

The O2 sensors must not have been never siezed by Mazda, they both destroyed threads coming out and we had to do some cleanup of the sensor threads to get them into the dp. I must say that Mazda did a good job on the heat shielding.

We found that removing the lower brace that crosses the trans tunnel gave us room to easily slip the dp in from underneath, with only front jackstands there wasn't enough room to articulate the dp into the car without rmoving this brace. Taking the cat out was tight, had to remove the mid sub pipe from the first cat to get the cat out.

We soldered a diode into the rear O2 signal wire and haven't thrown a cell yet, but it's way early to declare sucess. MBC was put in at same time and its not able to keep boost below 20+ psi so fuel cut is preventing the fun, should be fixed in a day or two. Car did wake up tho, cannot wait for a good tuning solution to hit the streets.
 

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Any vids from you guys that already have them installed??
 

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Discussion Starter #16
We found that removing the lower brace that crosses the trans tunnel gave us room to easily slip the dp in from underneath, with only front jackstands there wasn't enough room to articulate the dp into the car without rmoving this brace. Taking the cat out was tight, had to remove the mid sub pipe from the first cat to get the cat out.

[/b]

Agreed and GREAT points to reiterate to everyone that will be doing this install themselves.
 

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Not yet. Hopefully I can just repair the damaged threads on the O2 sensor. Then I will get you some vids/pics.
 

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What do you want pics or vids of? Sounds the same as it did before IMO... no change really... My GF even said it sounded about the same...

Also.. i've run about 150ish miles so far and no CEL... I'm running the stock TOP wide-band o2 sensor.. and a replaced after-market cheap o2 sensor after the cat.... because we were unable to remove the lower o2.... But no CEL's yet.. thank god...

As for power... The same turns.. the same roads i've been driving for the past 8,000 miles... are now insane... I used to launch it from a stoplight.. sharp right turn onto on-ramp... i'd usually end up in the far 3rd lane of 3 lane on-ramp... Now... The rear-end breaks loose and if I don't let off... i'd slide right across the thing onto the grass...

Sorry its a bit hard to explain... but I notice a LOT more lower end torque it seems... i've had no lack-of-power issues that I used to have every so often.... And it seems to hold boost up till redline... I always remember shifting around 5500 because i'd feel the car start to lug down.. but now I have to re-learn shifting as it keeps pulling...

Its late.. i'm running my mind... if you can't read or understand this.. i'm sorry .. lol
 
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