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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, from what I have found:

1) Downpipe removal is beast..
Solution: http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63567 not a bad writeup.


2) O2 sensor is hard to remove without it stripping out
Solution: Small torch to heat the downpipe near the o2 sensor to get it out OR figure out what o2 sensor is used and buy a replacement. If its a Bosch, Bosch wbo2s are dirt cheap.

3) Can't get a wrench in to install DP
Solution: Use allen bolts with standoffs where needed to get it clearanced so a ball allen wrench can get in there.
Allens can't get enough torque? Torx ball wrenches with Torx bolts.

4) CEL due to downstream 02 sensor
Solution: install diode mod, any diode rated 24v or more should work fine.

Any other issues/solutions anyone has found?



And, yes, I have already been through this thread http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63567 and unfortunately its somewhat of a trainwreck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
theres already a thread about this. and it's recent.
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Yeah, and its full of posts somewhat like this, that make it impossible to sort through with any sort of relevancy.

It needs to be sorted and put together with some sort of conclusion. This an attempt at that.

Also too, these issues, although I have overcome them, still seem unanswered. Exhaust leaks, fresh air leaking into the o2 stream causing intermittent CELs, a busted o2 sensor, and near impossibility to tighten the bolts evenly and properly means that the downpipe installation is still not completely sorted out.

Don't ball allen wrenches suck for any amount of torque? Or maybe I just had shitty ones.
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Thanks!

Yes, you have a point. There *are* torx bolts, and torx ball wrenches that could probably deal with this issue. Its now listed above.
 

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It seems most of the question is answered with simply tightening down the bolts. 1-2 people that can't tighten them down doesn't make it an issue. It's my understanding there are at least 10 cars with this downpipe, a good set of tools goes a long way for DIYers.

As far as the 02 goes, soak it in PB, turn it some, soak it in PB, turn it, soak it in PB, repeat until its out.

CEL is only with the CATLESS, and should be expected. It seems a work around is adding a diode to the second 02.

All of this is in the thread referred above.


Does everybody need to be spoon fed these days?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It seems most of the question is answered with simply tightening down the bolts. 1-2 people that can't tighten them down doesn't make it an issue. It's my understanding there are at least 10 cars with this downpipe, a good set of tools goes a long way for DIYers.

As far as the 02 goes, soak it in PB, turn it some, soak it in PB, turn it, soak it in PB, repeat until its out.

CEL is only with the CATLESS, and should be expected. It seems a work around is adding a diode to the second 02.

All of this is in the thread referred above.
Does everybody need to be spoon fed these days?
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In that thread there is a CEL with a CAT, due to a leak.

CEL without CAT seems to be fixed with the diode trick.

And, yes, they need to be spoonfed. ;)

Honestly, the easier it is to find the info the less multiple threads show up in here. ;)
 

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or a more proven method is a non-fouler setup......cost all of $4 and is readily avaliable at any auto parts store.
 

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All of the turbo to downpipe flange bolts can be gotten to with a rachet if you have a good selection of extentions and sockets. It is not easy, it takes patience and a few colorful shout outs are bound to fly before the stock downpipe is off, and again before the CPE dp is on.

As mentioned in the other thread, if you are not an accomplished wrench turner you should really consider paying someone to do this for you. I wrench and tune third gen Rx7's all the time and they are a challenge ... I'm not sure I would even accept a customer with a MS6 wanting to install the dp because it would be 10+ hours minimum ($500+ in labor alone including a extra pair of hands for an hour or two) plus a potential replacement O2 sensor(s).

The MS6 dp install was no fun and had me thinking I would not be able to drive it the following day due to the damn O2 sensors galling. I spent an hour cleaning up the threads with a dremel cutoff wheel and a special file and feel lucky that I was able to reclaim both sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All of the turbo to downpipe flange bolts can be gotten to with a rachet if you have a good selection of extentions and sockets. It is not easy, it takes patience and a few colorful shout outs are bound to fly before the stock downpipe is off, and again before the CPE dp is on.

As mentioned in the other thread, if you are not an accomplished wrench turner you should really consider paying someone to do this for you. I wrench and tune third gen Rx7's all the time and they are a challenge ... I'm not sure I would even accept a customer with a MS6 wanting to install the dp because it would be 10+ hours minimum ($500+ in labor alone including a extra pair of hands for an hour or two) plus a potential replacement O2 sensor(s).

The MS6 dp install was no fun and had me thinking I would not be able to drive it the following day due to the damn O2 sensors galling. I spent an hour cleaning up the threads with a dremel cutoff wheel and a special file and feel lucky that I was able to reclaim both sensors.
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I just did one for a friends car and I have a full complement of all sorts of socket u-joints, crows feet, etc and it was still difficult! I am still annoyed by it days later. I figured it would be a good heads-up for my install on my car, and, after doing it, I am seriously reconsidering doing it on my own car. At least not until I come up with a better answer to some of what I ran into.

I have a full set of dies and taps and a special threadcleaner tool that made it rather easy as far as fixing the threads. But the rest of it was fully annoying.
 

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I think you got it backwards... ball-allen sucks. Use a regular hex head or allen key if possible.

I've had the "ball" part snap off, since it gets skinny, it just shears, but again, could of been the low-quality ones I was using.
 

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I think I'm gonna go ahead and put this out there. I corrected the CEL/MIL with the catless downpipe with the screen filter out the faucet of my kitchen sink. It sort of simulates a cat for the 2nd O2 sensor. I just soldered it inside the extended bung and reset the battery. I am now a solid 2600 miles code-free. I informed CP-E of this fix and I beleive they are going to work to integrate this into their design. As soon as they find one that works, all their catless downpipes will have this at the time of delivery. Not all faucets have the same screens, some will work and some won't. If it doesn't work at first, try 2 or 3 of them. Mine just took 1, but when I had my Evo, I used 2.
 

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I think I'm gonna go ahead and put this out there. I corrected the CEL/MIL with the catless downpipe with the screen filter out the faucet of my kitchen sink. It sort of simulates a cat for the 2nd O2 sensor. I just soldered it inside the extended bung and reset the battery. I am now a solid 2600 miles code-free. I informed CP-E of this fix and I beleive they are going to work to integrate this into their design. As soon as they find one that works, all their catless downpipes will have this at the time of delivery. Not all faucets have the same screens, some will work and some won't. If it doesn't work at first, try 2 or 3 of them. Mine just took 1, but when I had my Evo, I used 2.
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Which code were you throwing before you put the screen in. I don't see how the screen could correct for the p0139(O2 sensor responce too slow), but if it did, then I might try it.
 

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I don't remember which code it was, but it hasn't come back. I had the car at autozone over the weekend, so I had them check for anything pending. Nothing came up, so I'm good to go.
 

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I think I'm gonna go ahead and put this out there. I corrected the CEL/MIL with the catless downpipe with the screen filter out the faucet of my kitchen sink. It sort of simulates a cat for the 2nd O2 sensor. I just soldered it inside the extended bung and reset the battery. I am now a solid 2600 miles code-free. I informed CP-E of this fix and I beleive they are going to work to integrate this into their design. As soon as they find one that works, all their catless downpipes will have this at the time of delivery. Not all faucets have the same screens, some will work and some won't. If it doesn't work at first, try 2 or 3 of them. Mine just took 1, but when I had my Evo, I used 2.
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Good idea, and I thought those things were only used as an emergency reserve bong screen. Well, it has been a long tine since high school. :laugh:
 
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