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I've been wondering this because this car is not commonly modified with FBO and a tune, but I figured I'd ask the forum to get a discussion going while possibly getting some answers!
 

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what sort of bolt ons? I really can't think of anything useful. With Orange Virus still tuned for 87 octane fuel someone on here was making about 215HP/215ft/lb.
 

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what sort of bolt ons? I really can't think of anything useful. With Orange Virus still tuned for 87 octane fuel someone on here was making about 215HP/215ft/lb.
Just the usual three: headers, full exhaust and intake. For the tune I was thinking of tuning it to 91.
 

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There is ZERO performance improvement to be had replacing the exhaust or intake, and possible quite a lot of LOSS as you are very likely to lose the factory tuning which is quite important on SkyActiv engines for scavenging.

If you wish to make more noise for some reason then you can accomplish that -- but not actually obtain higher performance. There simply isn't any restriction to remove in either of the factory systems.
 

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If you wish to make more noise for some reason then you can accomplish that -- but not actually obtain higher performance.
Agreed, In fact, you will lose performance.

In fact, you're going to lose performance while you're at it.
Just the usual three: headers, full exhaust and intake. For the tune I was thinking of tuning it to 91.
Headers are too expensive and unnecessary considering that the stock manifold is already a great design

The stock intake draws cool air from in between the bumper and hood. After market ones might free up 1hp in the high end, but you're losing low end torque and just drawing hot air into the intake.

The stock exhaust is already an optimal design in terms of flow and the bubbly muffler at the back is specially designed to draw air out from underneath the car more efficiently.

Just get a 91 octane tune from OVT and call it a day dude.
 

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There is ZERO performance improvement to be had replacing the exhaust or intake, and possible quite a lot of LOSS as you are very likely to lose the factory tuning which is quite important on SkyActiv engines for scavenging.

If you wish to make more noise for some reason then you can accomplish that -- but not actually obtain higher performance. There simply isn't any restriction to remove in either of the factory systems.
Do you ALWAYS talkout of your ass with no actual knowledge of the subject? Youre DEAD wrong, with a tune you WILL see an increase freeing up the exhaust flow with a properly tuned header. The intake box design however, is good for anything short of a turbo install.
 

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Do you ALWAYS talkout of your ass with no actual knowledge of the subject? Youre DEAD wrong, with a tune you WILL see an increase freeing up the exhaust flow with a properly tuned header. The intake box design however, is good for anything short of a turbo install.
I'm sure he was referring to an exhaust as from the cat-back, meaning everything behind the manifold. There is absolutely no question that installing catless headers will free up some power even on an NA car, but that's a no-no for emissions reasons and totally unnecessary, considering the $800 aftermarket headers are identical in design to factory but with cats simply removed... No way i would ever pay that much money on 10HP gains WITH the appropriate supporting tune, as the car WILL NOT run optimally without it and make maybe half that at most. Plus there is no need for you to be an asshole. That money is much better spent on suspension.
 

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Do you ALWAYS talkout of your ass with no actual knowledge of the subject? Youre DEAD wrong, with a tune you WILL see an increase freeing up the exhaust flow with a properly tuned header. The intake box design however, is good for anything short of a turbo install.
I have been keeping an eye on you and, while you're free to voice your opinion in the matter you choose, you're not free to disrespect the members of this board while I'm still around. This is not your typical forum in that regard, and I plan to keep it that way. You may continue to post on here, with any opinions you may have, so long as you do it respectfully.

I always give everyone, even potential spammers, the benefit of the doubt because I'm a glass-is-half-full kind of person: do not take that for granted, sir.

Back on topic: Spending upwards of $1,500 to get an intake, exhaust and tune, just to increase your WHP by ~15, at the expense of deteriorating the fine-tuned quality of your OEM engine, IMO is not a good investment. If you think otherwise, that's great! I wouldn't bother.
 

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Well, without an actual Dyno it's hard to be certain of the amount of change...
I will say that in current form my car ('16 AT touring) is way faster than stock (OVtune, axle-back exhaust, Godspeed sport springs), and I AM planning on getting the Injen CAI (despite what some say I have driven a friends car before & after Injen install and I could definitely feel it being quicker, I'd believe the claim of 6hp/6lb-ft, based an air flow stabilization/reduced turbulence).
As it stands the best 0-60 time I could get when I first bought my car was 7.5 seconds, now I'm more like 6.6-6.8 seconds which is pretty significant! (And I'm hoping to get below 6.5 with intake, high flow cat, and water injection).
If I were to guess I would say I'm up +25hp/+30ft-lbs (though from what I understand tuning for higher octane benefits torque more than HP, and our heads will likely limit top end HP even if torque is pushed higher).
 

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Well, without an actual Dyno it's hard to be certain of the amount of change...
I will say that in current form my car ('16 AT touring) is way faster than stock (OVtune, axle-back exhaust, Godspeed sport springs), and I AM planning on getting the Injen CAI (despite what some say I have driven a friends car before & after Injen install and I could definitely feel it being quicker, I'd believe the claim of 6hp/6lb-ft, based an air flow stabilization/reduced turbulence).
As it stands the best 0-60 time I could get when I first bought my car was 7.5 seconds, now I'm more like 6.6-6.8 seconds which is pretty significant! (And I'm hoping to get below 6.5 with intake, high flow cat, and water injection).
If I were to guess I would say I'm up +25hp/+30ft-lbs (though from what I understand tuning for higher octane benefits torque more than HP, and our heads will likely limit top end HP even if torque is pushed higher).
6HP from a warm air Intake is absurd. I promise you wont even gain 1hp unless you route cool air directly into the intake cone. Then you'll get 2hp at the expense of lost low end torque.

Mazdas cylinder head is more optimized for mid range grunt, but you can expect a peaky top end as well with the ecu tune. I cant suggest winding the engine past 6000rpm frequently as being very good for a large displacement engine at all however.

Higher octane ecu tune does not automatically mean better torque gains rather than HP. Expect both to improve pretty linearly with this engine.

Theres a YouTube video of a guy with an OVtuned 6 claiming he did 14.9 sec through the quarter mile which is quite good. By this point, if you want a faster 0-60 time your best bet would be wider sticker tires and perhaps even a limited slip diff (expensive custom work, sort of out of the equation)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, without an actual Dyno it's hard to be certain of the amount of change...
I will say that in current form my car ('16 AT touring) is way faster than stock (OVtune, axle-back exhaust, Godspeed sport springs), and I AM planning on getting the Injen CAI (despite what some say I have driven a friends car before & after Injen install and I could definitely feel it being quicker, I'd believe the claim of 6hp/6lb-ft, based an air flow stabilization/reduced turbulence).
As it stands the best 0-60 time I could get when I first bought my car was 7.5 seconds, now I'm more like 6.6-6.8 seconds which is pretty significant! (And I'm hoping to get below 6.5 with intake, high flow cat, and water injection).
If I were to guess I would say I'm up +25hp/+30ft-lbs (though from what I understand tuning for higher octane benefits torque more than HP, and our heads will likely limit top end HP even if torque is pushed higher).
I'm highly considering the OV Tune, just need to get the money for it. I'm installing Godspeed Coilovers this month so it's nice to see someone here running Godspeed!
 

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I'm installing Godspeed Coilovers this month so it's nice to see someone here running Godspeed!
I have been extremely happy with the springs, I opted for the cheaper route with springs rather than coilovers so I could afford the tune at the same time. They are way higher spring rate than stock, and 1.2" lower, so it handles phenomenally better though you feel the road a lot more even if you don't want to (I like the amount of firmness but definitely more than stock).

By this point, if you want a faster 0-60 time your best bet would be wider sticker tires
Actually, this has been on my mind as I'm definitely spinning the tires more, thinking of getting new wheels to go to 245 tires.

6HP from a warm air Intake is absurd. I promise you wont even gain 1hp unless you route cool air directly into the intake cone. Then you'll get 2hp at the expense of lost low end torque.
To be clear I am talking about Injen CAI, which pulls cold air from way off to the side, so not warm air. And as to the actual power difference, it's hard without objective measures, I would say the most noticeable difference is the latency between pushing the pedal and acceleration happening is reduced (the Injen intake actually shapes the air coming in enough that they had to move the MAF sensor up near the filter to stop getting CEL, pretty fascinating actually).
Also just based on the acoustic benefits it's probably worth it :)
 

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I have been extremely happy with the springs, I opted for the cheaper route with springs rather than coilovers so I could afford the tune at the same time. They are way higher spring rate than stock, and 1.2" lower, so it handles phenomenally better though you feel the road a lot more even if you don't want to (I like the amount of firmness but definitely more than stock).


Actually, this has been on my mind as I'm definitely spinning the tires more, thinking of getting new wheels to go to 245 tires.


To be clear I am talking about Injen CAI, which pulls cold air from way off to the side, so not warm air. And as to the actual power difference, it's hard without objective measures, I would say the most noticeable difference is the latency between pushing the pedal and acceleration happening is reduced (the Injen intake actually shapes the air coming in enough that they had to move the MAF sensor up near the filter to stop getting CEL, pretty fascinating actually).
Also just based on the acoustic benefits it's probably worth it :)
You're sacrificing beneficial intake air resonance just for more sound.

That CAI does draw in cool air from the bumper which helps, but continues to introduce more problems. Greatly Increases the chances of hydro locking.

Quite frankly - the airbox along with the entire exhaust system is an excellent design and IMO should not be messed with whatsoever.

The large muffler design helps with aerodynamics under the vehicle. It's a hemmholtz resonator type muffler, which is excellent at balancing flow with the right amount of exhaust back pressure. The entire intake and exhaust assembly on this car was very thoughtfully and smartly engineered meaning it's something I highly recommend not to mess with.

If I really wanted more exhaust sound, I'd replace the massive factory resonator with a high flow like modzas did, but that's it.
 

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Anyone who ever said replacing the header with an aftermarket one will have zero performance gain is wrong period. They have also never had one installed nor tested. Although I have seen some poorly design headers for the gen3 that other members have tried and reported loss in both hp/torque. I have FBO from header back and currently on 91 OVT. The gain is consistent throughout the rpm. I'm pretty certain I'm north of 200+ HP and about 230ft-lb of TQ to the wheel. After I finish with the e85 tune I will get it dyno. So stay tuned.


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Anyone who ever said replacing the header with an aftermarket one will have zero performance gain is wrong period. They have also never had one installed nor tested. Although I have seen some poorly design headers for the gen3 that other members have tried and reported loss in both hp/torque. I have FBO from header back and currently on 91 OVT. The gain is consistent throughout the rpm. I'm pretty certain I'm north of 200+ HP and about 230ft-lb of TQ to the wheel. After I finish with the e85 tune I will get it dyno. So stay tuned.


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A good quality aftermarket header system for this car is identical in design to OEM but minus the cats. Not worth the money IMO, especially since going catless has obvious repercussions to the environment.

Reporting power loss from aftermarket headers is bad. That means they are so bad; in fact that exhaust flow is severely altered/effected even with the cats removed. Another reason why it's not worth it. Plus, many people who go catless dont bother to get a corresponding tune which makes matters even worse.

Considering the quality of the stock headers on this design (which is nothing short of excellency) damn right I'm not going to f*ck around with aftermarket options.
 

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A good quality aftermarket header system for this car is identical in design to OEM but minus the cats. Not worth the money IMO, especially since going catless has obvious repercussions to the environment.

Reporting power loss from aftermarket headers is bad. That means they are so bad; in fact that exhaust flow is severely altered/effected even with the cats removed. Another reason why it's not worth it. Plus, many people who go catless dont bother to get a corresponding tune which makes matters even worse.

Considering the quality of the stock headers on this design (which is nothing short of excellency) damn right I'm not going to f*ck around with aftermarket options.
Exactly why I went with the header I have now, the design is exactly like stock w/out the cat. I know all about heat scavenging when it comes to these engine, the oe design is that way for a reason. However diameter of the tubing makes a huge difference especially being a high compression engine.

Have you driven a fully tuned gen3 2.5L with headers It’s literally night and day. More so on a 2.5L mazda3. People who say it’s not worth the money has never driven one. I would rather spend $800 on a good header than a set of cheapo coilovers that might not even last a year.
 

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Exactly why I went with the header I have now, the design is exactly like stock w/out the cat. I know all about heat scavenging when it comes to these engine, the oe design is that way for a reason. However diameter of the tubing makes a huge difference especially being a high compression engine.

Have you driven a fully tuned gen3 2.5L with headers It’s literally night and day. More so on a 2.5L mazda3. People who say it’s not worth the money has never driven one. I would rather spend $800 on a good header than a set of cheapo coilovers that might not even last a year.
I am aware of the power gains as well as responsiveness you gain from going catless, so long as you are tuned. I would have done it a couple years ago, but especially these days there is no way I would ever do such a thing because I have become far more conscious of the enviroment.

$800 for what is no more than 10HP gains and maybe like 15ft/lb of a torque is yet another reason why I would'nt do it. that price doesn't even include installing the headers, which is probably a pain in the @ss.

I'd get the ECU tune first, then happily spend the rest of my mod money on sway bars and other suspension upgrades. I'm not about going fast in a straight line anymore like I was as a kid. The way I see it, the extra torque should be very helpful for daily real world driving, not just punching the throttle every opportunity you get (unless its going around a corner)
 

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Nostalgic Hero - if memory serves, you had quite a time fitting those headers. Nice to know there IS a decently powerful 2.5 engine hiding in there ☺ . For me (this is just for me, now) I would try my darndest to retain cat and pre-cat. We're rapidly getting to where we will be shamed into driving a battery electric. I want to be able to continue to drive my (enthusiast-oriented) gaspot as long as I can. Losing cats can make it the same as adding quite a number of cars to the road... oh, I don't know... like maybe 20 (?).

I'm sure no one likes to follow behind a catalyst-removed car. They smell horrible.

YMMV...
 

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Dumb question: what's FBO? F? Bolt On. ????
Full bolt on. Meaning, anything short of pulling the motor apart and doing forged internals or cams. Sometimes can include adding a turbo since, you, bolt it on. Coming from the DSM world, the Supra guys used "BPU" and levels with numbers, Basic Power Upgrades. Fricking stupid imho. But yea. I wish someone made cams...i might dance with the possibility of getting rid of the VVT if they had a good lumpy cam...
 
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