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I butchered this post a bit to get at least a basic description on how to do it up front. Most of the info was pulled from M3F after a member used what i did to retard timing on my turbo application to advance it on his street application.



After removing the belly pan and the passenger side splash shield, turn the tire out to the right to allow a little working room.
The sensor was held in place by two 8mm bolts, one being partially obstructed by the A/C belt.

then mark the sensor's original position, (wich was 3/4 of the slot down) with a permanent marker, and loosened the bolts. Looking at the sensor thru the wheel well, I slid it counter clockwise all the way (down toward the ground) and snugged the bolts back up. BE CAREFUL with these bolts! They only need to be snug and are very easy to strip.

put splash shield and tray back, ready to go.


here's a picture of the sensor on the far left, ignore the Focus Central Pulley as it was just the best pic i had of the sensor.



most have stated it feels even better with better octane, and smoothness has been the key word for most who have done it. again, i'm not saying do this, but it's worth looking at if you wanna play with something...and a damn easy mod too.






here's more info if you wanna read up...

http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=39020.0
 

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Nice. I believe this what Jay is currently using for timing on the Hass kit. He mentioned he could get 4-6* using the crank sensor.

Cool to know that it works for advance as well.
 

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I'm interested in doing this mod but I need to clear off my darn CEL from the AEM. :angry:
The only parts store close had a goofball who yanked out the cable and pulled one of the prongs. :hammerhea:
 

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this mod shouldn't have anything to do with a CEL from the intake??

i've had it retarded for several months now, just gotta listen for ping under load if you are really pushing it on 87 octane i'd imagine.
 

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So....we basically are advancing the timing a bit to get a little bit more response from the engine. Is there that much of a difference with a NA motor like ours?
 

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it's more for the NA setup than the FI actually. read through the Mazda3 thread and it goes through a lot of input from people. the 6 is even easier to do than there's....seriously 10-15 min tops to change.
 

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Woah... This is a great find!! :thumbup: I'm amazed, the sensor is even slotted... :drool: I can't wait to get home and try this out. THANKS Mr Tea!! :bowdown:
 

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i didn't expect to feel anything, and im pretty connected with my car, but it does seem a bit more smooth.

some of the 3 owners were stating that their top gears seemed a bit more willing to pull, however, im finding 1st and 2nd to be a bit more lively.

am i wrong to think that the gains they found will be negated in our heavier car? obviously im not expecting any gain from this, but after driving a bit more, if i conclude the engine is a bit more smooth, i'll recommend doing this.

just remove the wheel, it makes it a lot easier.

edit: just drove again...startup is 10x more smooth. before it used to spike to 2k rpm and then settle down at about 750-1000 range. when i started it the first time after doing this, it idled right over 1k. this time it went right to 1500 and immediately dropped to 750. i've never seen it do that before.
 

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i didn't expect to feel anything, and im pretty connected with my car, but it does seem a bit more smooth.

some of the 3 owners were stating that their top gears seemed a bit more willing to pull, however, im finding 1st and 2nd to be a bit more lively.

am i wrong to think that the gains they found will be negated in our heavier car? obviously im not expecting any gain from this, but after driving a bit more, if i conclude the engine is a bit more smooth, i'll recommend doing this.

just remove the wheel, it makes it a lot easier.
[/b]
Are you still on 87 octane?
 

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Hmm, this has me intrigued. Probably going to be bored this weekend. Might have to give this one a try. I think I can handle loosening and tightening some bolts. Think I'll top off w/ 89 before I do it to be on safe side.
 

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glad it's working, sorry i didn't post earlier...it's been a long time too.

anyhow, keep in mind, many cars will be fine, and feel the benefit with plain old 87 octane. those in warmer climates or those that run more load (lots of hill driving and whatnot) will be the ones to "be carefull". if you feel fine with 87 there's no reason to "run" 89 or 91 in the car instead. you might feel a bit more umf with it, but is that worth the $2.50-3 more per fill up?

...and just to say it...those running nitrous will benefit from going the other direction also
 

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hah, get a quarter/half tank of 91 when i get on a road course again :D i'll just play it safe and keep it at 87.

im letting my car sit for another couple hours before i go out to dinner. wanna see if the engine starts up the same way, but i'll get a video of it this time...

nevermind, i gotta bring my roomate to get his old car. sigh.
 

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Mmm maybe I'm not gonna do this. Michigan summers are real hott usually and I don't wanna pay the extra money for gas. Besides, with this mod are our engines going to be fully optimized to run this higher octane so we won't get carbon clots and all that rubbish?
 

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don't know about "fully optimized" ,but more suited for would be the ideal term. though still not needed in "most" cases
 
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