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well in the last 3-4 years this mods been done around here, you are the first to experience a mileage change from the mod. i think you were overly worried about the uber technical guy who worked at Autozone, and placeabo kicked in. in Cali i felt no gains from this mod, none, no power, no response...nada. BUT it's a hell of a lot easier to work on the car when you don't have to wait for certain parts to cool down, it's the only reason i left it.
 

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I checked out my TB yesterday before I go ahead and do this mod. Wanting to become familiar, I could not find any hoses connecting to my TB! Is it possible my Australian model is already TB Coolant free?

To confirm can someone do me a massive favour and take a real picture of the TB and hoses and not draw it (despite the accuracy of drawings ;))
 

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QUOTE (ttshark @ Jul 17 2009, 08:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1583577
To confirm can someone do me a massive favour and take a real picture of the TB and hoses and not draw it (despite the accuracy of drawings ;))[/b]
sorry couldn't find one for the hoses but here's the TB and you can kinda see where both hoses go.


 

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Yeah ummmmm.... haha.... my model has a hard plastic composite Throttle Body. Being plastic, it doesn't need coolant. Crazy huh?

So I went ahead and cleaned my TB anyway. After doing so I got a whistle when revving low which usually means the gasket or seating of the TB so I kept fiddling. FOR THREE DAYS. After getting nowhere I went to the Mazda Service centre. Guy there says that the plastic TB in Mazda 6's have a Teflon coating on the inside and by spraying it with TB/Carby Cleaner I removed that layer and so even though my TB responds better, it is now more rough than stock and will inevitably get dirtier quicker.

And I was so keen on this mod. I even ordered the 3/8" barbs from a local store :(
 

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just a quick question. I oversaw someone mentioning this mod but keeping the hoses through the TB and adding a y valve then bypassing it so when winter rolls around all it takes is just a flip of a switch to get the coolant running back through the TB. Its possible but is it plausible?


Also I just grounded the TB to the battery and it was ok at first but then later I had popped a CEL???? removed it and it was fine, put it back on and it was fine.... Im thinking it had something to do with the hose that I wrapped the wire around... thoughts?
 

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QUOTE (Halozander @ Aug 1 2009, 03:06 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1587505
just a quick question. I oversaw someone mentioning this mod but keeping the hoses through the TB and adding a y valve then bypassing it so when winter rolls around all it takes is just a flip of a switch to get the coolant running back through the TB. Its possible but is it plausible?


Also I just grounded the TB to the battery and it was ok at first but then later I had popped a CEL???? removed it and it was fine, put it back on and it was fine.... Im thinking it had something to do with the hose that I wrapped the wire around... thoughts?[/b]
Oooo I like the Y valve idea, cause you states folk get some crazy cold winters. What are you grounding the TB for? And also I doubt the wire wrapping around a hose would do anything unless that hose had wires in it also. If it did then it was probably inducing an electromagnetic current in the hose.
 

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Well I'm back with results and I went to three hardware stores and checker auto. Y valve with turn on/off is IMPOSSIBLE to find, so my revised theory is this: a t valve in original line before and after TB and then connect the bypass hose to the "bottom of the T" and run a straight on/ off valve in that and in the hosing before the TB. Its a little more clunky but should have the same results. + saved time not searching for a 3/8" Y valve with on/off. Ill get some pics up from powerpoint if anyone can't visualize it.

Oh and about the TB ground... Idk I have heard that it can improve the electric field or something of that nature for improved response. For a 5$ mod that looks pretty cool, however useless it might be, I thought I would give it a shot. I can get pics of that too if you want. PS I think the CEL was some sort of fluke, because I haven't seen it again.


OK here is a pic, sorry for bad artistry.
[attachment=43340:picture1.png]
 

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Just ordered a hose onion off ebay for like $2. Can't believe I overlooked this. I noticed that when I got my OTB and put it in that it was hot as hell (i installed it right after a drive like your NOT suppose to hehe) and I couldn't understand why something that channels air would reach high temperatures. Didn't occur to me that it would be caused by the coolant itself. I think that's ironic, but I always use that word wrong.

UPDATE:
From what I remember it got hot as hell and now its wonderful. I touched the 3/8th coolant hose and then touched the throttle body after I did this and the hose was hot as hell while the TB was average to low. So yeah, stupid Mazda design!
 

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hey guys, and i know im in the wrong forum sorta but i was googling throttle body coolant bypasses and stumbled on two. i understand this mod is for the mazda 6. I have a mazda 3. but how and why is this coolant bypass different Beginner's Guide to the TB Coolant Bypass Mod different from the on on this forum? are they just two different methods and if so which is more "efficient?" or beneficial? because they seem to use different materials and a slightly different set up... i assumed both the 6 and the 3 or most engines for that matter had similar throttle bodies... sooo yeah clear up any explnanations. GREAT THANKS!
 

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I did both mods, but the air hose thing was weird. First off, the back hose was not 5/8" like said in the post. It was 3/8" like the rest of the hose. My Injen CAI required the adapter that was on the old line to hook up to the hose and I used a hose union for that. If I understand it, the line should no longer connect to the y and I'm just connecting the intake to the manifold?
 

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Do you plug the hole left on the IM you take this off of?
 

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hole on the IM???
 

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One Valve?

Well I'm back with results and I went to three hardware stores and checker auto. Y valve with turn on/off is IMPOSSIBLE to find, so my revised theory is this: a t valve in original line before and after TB and then connect the bypass hose to the "bottom of the T" and run a straight on/ off valve in that and in the hosing before the TB. Its a little more clunky but should have the same results. + saved time not searching for a 3/8" Y valve with on/off. Ill get some pics up from powerpoint if anyone can't visualize it.

Oh and about the TB ground... Idk I have heard that it can improve the electric field or something of that nature for improved response. For a 5$ mod that looks pretty cool, however useless it might be, I thought I would give it a shot. I can get pics of that too if you want. PS I think the CEL was some sort of fluke, because I haven't seen it again.


OK here is a pic, sorry for bad artistry.
[attachment=43340:picture1.png]

It looks like this is a much better solution. It makes sense that some people that are doing this mod in areas where the climate can get very cold in the winter are experiencing MPG issues. The air temperature needs to be as cool as possible, but there is a point where it can get too cold and can inhibit combustion.

I plan to do this mod so that when the ambient temp outside drops below freezing (or whenever I start to see my MPG drop) I'll start running coolant through the TB. Also, looking at the drawing, I think one of the valves can be taken out. The valve in the line between the two orignal lines is all you need, the secondary valve by the inlet of the TB isn't necessary.
 

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where is our IAC located? if its in the throttle body. and then you delete the coolant running to it. then your ecu will have no true reading for your IAC. which would be bad juju for anyone in the colder climates.

this makes me think of the unplugging the clutch switch everyone was doing for power. lol
 

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where is our IAC located? if its in the throttle body. and then you delete the coolant running to it. then your ecu will have no true reading for your IAC. which would be bad juju for anyone in the colder climates.

this makes me think of the unplugging the clutch switch everyone was doing for power. lol
The 2.3L uses the throttle body as the IAC, we don't have separate IAC valves like Ford. The port for the IAC on the IM is blocked off on the Mazdas.
 
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