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Somebody have mentioned that the shifter cable pops out of the shifter mechanism, it's because the new bushing that comes with the MS short shifter kit makes the shifter mechanism sit a little too low, thus causing a bend in the shifter cable. The cable pops out because it wants to straighten itself. The ideal height would be archieved using the original bushings. But if you want to keep the direct feel of the new bushings, that just use the new bushings plus metal washers underneath to adjust the height. If you think the shifter is too noisy, then use the OEM bushing plus rubber washer instead.

Ya I think TWM's shoft shifter installation instruction is better then MS's because it's missing a few crucial steps such as "removing the center console", which makes things a whole lot easier, and the push nut can be easily removed by "align a flat head screwdriver with the side of the push nut, and use a hammer to give it a few strikes while the shifter mechanism is still bolted to the car". This way the push nut will bent a little bit, giving you room to use a screwdriver to pry it out of the brass pin.
 

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If there is anything a little cheesy it's that rubber strip (for the cable) they put in the kit however this can be corrected with silicone. If you ask me silicon is a far better fix than the rubber/foam strip.
 

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Has there been a mechanical change that prevents the short-throw kit from being installed on an '06 model? Even the official Mazda website only lists it as an available part for '03-'05 models.

In fact, they don't list any of the Mazdaspeed accessories as being available for '06 models.

Any thoughts?
 

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I just got done putting my car back together after having an unsuccessful attempt at installing my MS SS. Everything was going very smooth till I got to those black clips that hold the shifter cables to the lower tray. I cannot get the center black clip to budge. There is a piece of metal right above this clip and there is no room to get that link off!


What am I doing wrong??
 

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I guess im stupid but I still don't see how you can push the thing upwards when there is a piece of metal blocking it from moving. How exactly do you remove the center one?
 

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Questions:

1. Is the Mazdaspeed shortshifter "green" under warranty for the 2003 Mazda6s?
2. I heard somebody say that it is leading to premature failure of cables/linkages due to the forces exerted. Is this true?
 

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I guess im stupid but I still don't see how you can push the thing upwards when there is a piece of metal blocking it from moving. How exactly do you remove the center one?
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I had the same problem. Just lift the whole shifter assembly off the studs and then dip the front end down. That should do the trick. Good luck. The shifter is well worth the trouble.
 

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I had the same problem. Just lift the whole shifter assembly off the studs and then dip the front end down. That should do the trick. Good luck. The shifter is well worth the trouble.
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That's what i had to do as well...
 

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Well if you remove the center console it'll make your life way easier when removing/installing the short shifter. Just follow TWM's manual to remove the shifter instead of mazdaspeed's because they have skipped few critical steps...

TWM Installation Manual
 

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SO I got the ms shifter on ebay for 20 bucks, however I dont have the lil push nut... what are my options can i get that from the dealer?
 

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Well I finally did it! I got my MS short throw on it and I love it! HOWEVER.... I dont know what exactly caused it, but the black clips that hold the shift cables, well the one on the left that goes attached straight on the shifter, well whenever I shift down to 2nd or 4th and REV, I get a damn clicking sound because it lifts up the clip, and I am sure I didnt break it, and I tried to snap it in to place with so many different things, even hammered it down to try and stop the clicking but no luck. Anyone have this issue? Am I the only one? Let me know!!!
 

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I just installed the Mazda Sport Shifter GRMS-8M-H12 into my 2006 Mazda6 Sportwagon last week, and I would recommend it. I have a couple of comments which may help others.

Remove the center console, as recommended by Newumbrella in a Sep 1, 2006 post to this thread. It will get rid of the interference problem with a metal bar above the shifter cables described by Regulator in an August 28, 2006 post to this thread. Also, it will permit the use of the 1/4 inch extension to remove the black shifter cable clips from the shifter base quickly and without damage, as described by Kwikshift in an April 5, 2006 post to this thread.

Use the neoprene strips in the shifter cable grooves only if they take up all the slack and still permit the shift cables to clip back into place. Noise may result if slack exists. In my case, the center cable was able to use the neoprene and click into place with no play, but the right hand cable would not clip into place and stay put with the neoprene - the neoprene was too thick. I ended up using 2 pieces of electrical tape cut to the same length and width (but only about half the thickness) as the neoprene strip instead, which removed all play and all noise due to slipping of the cable in the shifter base.

Finally, DO NOT TIGHTEN THE FOUR NUTS TO THE SHIFTER BASE WITH 33 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE! IF YOU DO, YOU WILL BREAK THE STUDS! Using a high quality beam torque wrench with a ratchet, I kept tightening one of the nuts to the 33 foot pound limit, until it stretched and broke at about 28 foot pounds. The stud I broke was one of the rear studs, and it was tack welded to the cross member which goes under both front seats, so the studs are not removeable. Fortunately, I was able to screw a coupling nut (about 3/4 inch long, which I trimmed to just over 1/2 inch) with the original metric thread onto the 3/8 inch long broken stud sticking out of the floor of the car, and screw another stud into the coupling nut. Avoid the entire problem by tightening these four nuts to a reasonable level - but nowhere near 33 foot pounds. Half that amount would be plenty, in my opinion.

The Mazda6 Sport Shifter (which is actually a Mazdaspeed part) reduced the throw from 1st gear to 2nd gear to about 2 3/4 inches, compared to about 3 1/2 inches measured from the bottom of the shift knob to the console containing the audio system. The car is much more pleasant to shift after this modification.

Good luck if you choose to do it!
 

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I put this on my 06 6i and love it. Only thing I messed up on is I forgot to put the adhesive on the two set screws in the pivot ball :doh: . I hope this is not a problem down the road. I would tear it down again and put the adhesive on the screws but #1) I don't have another push nut and #2) I think I might be screwed with grease already being on the ball which probably got into the hole for the set screws.

I am hoping that with two set screws it won't back out anyway. If it does what kind of problem will this present? Will I not be able to shift or will it just be really sloppy. Either way, if it does back out I should have some warning since the seat for the set screws is tappered so any problem would gradually get worse.

02/05/07

I took apart the whole assembly and started over. Without the adhesive on the screws in the pivot ball they loosened up and the shifting got really sloppy. Used brake cleaner to get all the grease off and reassembled with the adhesive on the set screws this time. I also changed up to the stock bushings to aleviate the clunking noise when shifting into gear. This shifter works like a champ now. Way smoother than stock and no added noise :spin:. I would definately reccommend using the stock bushings for this mod.
 

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Mazda has responded to my request for a correct shifter base torque specification as follows:


Upon initial investigation, our engineers have found that there may be a misprint on the instructions with the incorrect torque of the shifter mounting platform. It should be the same as O.E. which is: 15.7 – 22.6 N-m or 1.6 – 2.3 kgf-m or 11.6 – 16.6 lbf-ft. Corrective action is being taken.

Kind Regards,

Mazda Customer Assistance



Based on this information from Mazda, the four shifter nuts should be no tighter than 16.6 foot-pounds (or 22.6 Newton-meters). No wonder a stud broke at 28 foot-pounds!
 

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Am I the only one who thinks it's actually tougher to shift with the shortshifter installed? It's installed perfectly fine, it's definitely smoother, but there's a whole lot more effort shifting. With the stock one, I could literally just throw it in gear.. Not with the SS... :unsure:
 

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Hey All,

I installed my shifter last night and it works just fine, but now the main shifter linkage clicks when I shift. The reason is that the clip that holds the shifter link to the plastic base is a bit looser now then before. I did not damage it and I have been watching the linkage in action and I think the Geometry on the linkage is a bit off and causes the clip to rise and fall as I go through the gears. I get a big "CLICK" between afew gears. I need to secure it down, but do not want to remove the plastic piece again. I was considering using epoxy to lock it in place and was curious if anyone had done this before. I can make a metal bar here at work and screw it down, but that would require removal. Anyone else have this problem and if so how did you fix it?
 

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Am I the only one who thinks it's actually tougher to shift with the shortshifter installed? It's installed perfectly fine, it's definitely smoother, but there's a whole lot more effort shifting. With the stock one, I could literally just throw it in gear.. Not with the SS... :unsure:[/b]
Yes this is true. But I don't find that the shift effort is unreasonable. It feels very similar to the 2000 Honda Prelude I used to own and Honda makes some of the best shifters in the business. Having said that I did use up all of the performance lubrication that came with the kit.
 
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