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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Seat Removal and Heated Seat installation on 2015 Touring...


Sorry, no pictures, but here are my notes on how to remove the seats on a 3rd Gen 2015 Touring... I did so for 2 reasons... 1 - To attempt to install heated seat elements, and ALSO to clean up a gallon of dog puke after my wife's dog ate 5 pounds of fudge last Christmas Eve. We caught him after he ate it at 2 AM and he puked on the way to the animal hospital. Best Christmas Eve Ever. NOT. It was literally a scene that could have made it into National Lampoons Christmas Vacation. I've never seen so much puke. But I digress...

As a result, here's hopefully some helpful info on how to remove the seats incase anyone else ever has the need.

Tools req'd for seat and trim disassembly:
Flat head screw driver
Philips Screw driver
E12 Torx Socket, socket wrench
Nice to have - interior plastic removal tools, mechanics gloves

For seat cover uninstall/reinstall:
Wire cutters to cut hog rings
Hog ring pliers and hog rings, or zip ties
Snap ring pliers (nice to have, not req'd)
Sharp awl for heating element piercing

Helpful Links: Diagrams of seats at Parts.com
Seat back removal instructions & diagrams



Step 1 - Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid airbag deployment issues.

Step 2 - Push passenger seat all the way back, find airback harness, 3x2 inch block. This is a nice harness, and easy to disconnect. You pinch a little thin but wide black tab/strip that is spring loaded. The harness then will easily swing out 1/4 inch or so and then dissengage. A good diagram is located here:
http://nema.club/2014wsm/workshop manual/n6w09/html/id091300800200.html


Step 3 - Center seats and pull seat levers to fold seat forward.

Step 4 - You'll need an E12 External TORX socket to remove the 4 seat bolts. If you don't have an E12 socket, you MIGHT get away with a 10MM hex (six sided) socket, but don't blame me if you strip the hardware! :)

Step 5 - remove the seat and place seat on a blanket to protect the seat vinyl material and prevent rails from damaging flooring (assuming you brought the seat inside to work on it).

Step 6 - On the passenger side (Touring/non-electric) you'll also need to jimmy/slide/persuade the recline lever off. It is pressed straight on 2 flat metal tabs. If you work it back and forth it will eventually pop off, be patient and don't rip it off as it's just plastic!

Step 7 - Remove two back plastic trim peices from seat bottom sides (Parts 11, 9, 8, 10 in this diagram) Remove the single screw on the inboard side. On both sides, the two halves of the trim peices are well built and despite persuasion did not break any tabs etc. Each is pressed together and clips with simple small male/female clips at the rear of the seat. I used plastic interior tools and a thin flat head screw driver to slowly split these along the seam. Once you get it started each clip pops open easily. The larger front/side peice of the trims both have a large 2" long tab holding the peice in place. If you lift up towards the ceiling it will slide off so log as the other interior clips/pins have already been slid off/unclipped.

Step 8 - unhook the airbag harness by sliding it forward off the metal tab; remove the required (grey and yellow) sub harnesses and then pop the wire clamp holder out of it's hole with a flat head screw driver or interior clip tool. Unhook that harness from the elastic band strap. replace the black harness back on the metal post when complete.

Step 9 - Remove the c-channel seat cover clamps (long plastic fastner that holds the seam of the seat cover to the frame) underneith the seat for the seat back.

Step 10 - Unhook the seat bottom cover side flaps from the large tabs on each side of the seat.

Step 11 - Remove the seat bottom from the frame by prying down slowly on the plastic c-channel fastern along the seams. You can try differnt tools here, but due to the sheet metal shape, fingers aren't really going to get it done. You'll need a plastic pry-bar or a hooked wooden lever, or a big flat head screw driver. Once you get both sides started, you should be able to uncurl the j-clip from all the way around the seats. Start at teh sides and then work towards the front. I flipped it upside down and started the sides with a plastic prybar, and then flipped it back and sait in the seat and ran my hads around the ring of the seat and removed the rest without any tools. It's a very nice design, much better than my last car a BMW E90.

Step 12 - slide the cushion out after feeding the harness through the back crack of the seat and the fabric bottom / dust cover.


Removal of the Seat Bottom skin

Step 1 - pull back and push foam out from under the cover to expose hog rings.

Step 2 - If you are removing the seat cover to replace it, methodically expose each hog ring adn clip them with wire cutters or bend them with needle nose pliers to remove. Be careful to remove the hog ring and not leave the remaining copper ring as it could puncture the leather if left behind. If removing to add seat heating elements, I removed one full side and the center seam hog rings, but left one side intact and folded the cover away while I placed the heat element into position.

Installation of heat element

Depending on what kit you use and it's size you may or may not have to trim the unit. Mine fit perfectly without any trimming and I decided not to cut out holes for hog rings and instead pierce the material and run zip ties directly through the material rather than cut access holes by passing it completely.

Step 1 - Place heating pad in place.

Step 2 - with sharpie, mark locations of hog rings

Step 3 - pierce marked locations with awl or sharp screw driver

Step 4 - (If using hog rings, you're on your own, I used zip ties) Loop zip ties around all cushion hog ring locations under the wire mounts.

Step 5 - working methodically, back to front and from the closed side to the open side, feed zip tie ends through heat pad hole you pierced previously with the awl. Leave both ends of hte zip tie open/unhooked.

Step 6 - Once each is fed through for all sections begin working methodically looping the zip tie through the hole above the plastic seat mouthing strips. Tighten as tightly as possible working methodically back to front. Make sure your cord is fed through from the heating element through the factory hole in the cushion towards middle rear.

Step 7. Once complete, replace seat cover skin around edges of seat and set seat aside.
 

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Thanks for the writeup. I am looking to do this in the next couple of weeks. I do have a few questions.
1. Are there a lot of hog rings that create the bolster in the seats? I am assuming that it what you used the zip ties for?
2. Any issues with the air bag/seatbelt sensor in the passenger seat?
3. Does the entire seat cover have to come off to complete or can you just roll it back from the front to back?
4. Where did you moount the switch? I am thinking on the side of the seat.

Which kit did you buy?
 

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I'm thinking about removing both front seats for some inspection. They both have a little wiggle in them, and it seems to be the seats themselves (as opposed to not being tightly bolted to the rails).

I'd like to remove them and look for any loose hardware.. but this airbag thing is kinda scaring me.
Obviously I'd disconnect the battery before removing the seats; but once the seats are out, is there any danger of the bags going off while I'm fiddling around looking for any loose nuts or bolts on the frames?
 

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I'm thinking about adding heated seats to my 2016 Mazda6 Touring MT as it did not come with them. I've read conflicting information that "everything" is already there and I would just need to change out the center climate control console to the one with the heated seat switches. Then other sources have said all the WIRING is there, but the actual heating elements are not. Can anyone here set it straight? Thanks!
 
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