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DIY: Oil Change

212K views 166 replies 76 participants last post by  jimmythec 
#1 · (Edited)
Didn't see one posted yet so here we go! I take zero responsibility if you screw it up, follow at own risk.
Tools required:
1. Jack + Jack stands (or a ramp would do fine)
2. Wheel blocks
3. Hockey puck (optional; to put between the jack and frame)
4. 8mm key
5. Screw driver
6. Flat head screw driver
7. Filter Wrench (Factory filter is a PITA to take off without one)
8. Pliers (to take off the factory gasket on the drain plug, mine was pretty stuck on there)
Oil + Filter
1. Mazda 0w-20 with Moly x 5qts
2. Mazda Oil Filter Part Number PE01-14-302
3. Drain plug gasket Part Number 9956-41-400


Step 1: Jack up your car and lay down your jack stands. ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS AND WHEEL BLOCKS
Here is the location that you want to jack. First image is taken from the front of the car. It's right smack middle of the picture with the, the location has dimples.

Here is another picture of the location, this is taken from driver side

Step 2: Remove oil drain/filter cover
The cover is held up with 2 screws and a pop off screw. The location is circled in this image.


Once you take off the cover, this is what you will see:

Everything is right there for you! Very easy. Drain plug is a 8mm allen and it uses a washer gasket.

Step 3: Drain oil and remove filter
You might need to use a plier to take off the washer from the drain plug


Step 4: Put everything on the bottom back together, less the cover (to check for leaks later)

Step 5: Fill oil from top

I took off the engine cover so it's easier to work with

Car takes about 4.7~4.8qts of 0w-20 (in the US)
Run the car for a couple of minutes and check for leaks all around.

If no leaks are found, put back the oil drain/filter cover.

Check oil level.

Remove the car from jack stands and take it out for a quick spin! Double check and triple check for leaks. You are done!

Happy zooming!

ps. forgot to take picture of jack stand location but you guys are smart... I use a towel between the jack stand and the lift location.
Edit: Mods, please move to DIY section. Thank you.
 
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#11 ·
Thanks for the write up and pics!

Interesting to see 8mm allen as drain plug...and very cool that the filter and drain plug are actually near each other!
....

Yes, those little things make a difference. Good job Mazda.
I found nice touches vs my previous experience when installing the sport springs.
 
#6 ·
I did my first oil change a couple of weeks ago. The manual says that with a filter (primed) it takes 4.8 quarts. I put a full 5 quarts in before the dipstick read full (and just barely). The garage is level and I ran the car for a bit with 4.5 quarts in it then let the oil settle for a good half hour before I checked the dipstick and topped it off. Checked the oil a couple days ago and it reads right on the full mark. Not even a hair over. Strange.
 
#8 ·
allen key for drain plug.. what the.. O_O. That's a lot easier than I would've expected. I hated the old mazda cartridge filters. And that oil filter spot looks easy to grab and change You should see the one under my old car.. or for that matter under my second car I ever owned. Had to buy a special wrench from the tool truck that attached to a ratchet and still gave me a fit. Usually ended with a screwdriver through the filter.. ';..;' at about a 15 degree angle (off vertical!) no less.. and several sets of holes LMAO
 
#152 ·
Allen key drain plug is a bad idea, and Mazda knows it. After just 3 oil changes at the dealer (Escondido Mazda), they stripped that allen key drain plug. I had to use vice grips to get mine off. El Cajon Mazda told me about the fix for the crappy allen oil plug, they sell a 17MM hex nut oil plug to replace the 8MM allen key plug.
 
#10 ·
very nice, thanks for the write up. I think i will let the dealer do the 1st few changes, than after that i am going to tackle it myself, it looks straightforward enough
 
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#13 · (Edited)
Per the shop manual for the gas engine - Oil pan drain plug tightening torque is 30—41 N·m {3.1—4.1 kgf·m, 23—30 ft·lbf} To answer the oil amount - per the manual - Oil replacement: 4.3 L {4.5 US qt, 3.8 lmp qt}. Oil and oil filter replacement: 4.5 L {4.8 US qt, 4.0 lmp qt}. Total (dry engine): 5.4 L {5.7 US qt, 4.8 Imp qt} So about 1 Qt stays within the engine during a change.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the great post.

I found that the messiest part of the oil change is removing the filter. Lots of opportunity for spill, even if the rest of the oil is already drained out.

I made a note to myself for next time to use a medium or large freezer zip loc to encase the filter before removing it, hopefully catching the spill. Has anyone tried this or have any thoughts?

Regards,
e harmon
 
#26 ·
This was a great reminder. I haven't done my own oil change in a long time and the zip lock bag caught all of the filter oil. Also instead of using pliers to remove the washer, I ended up using a small screwdriver wedged between the screw head and the washer and working a slow twisting motion until it pops off. I found there's less of a chance of denting the thread this way.


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#25 ·
I am not supprised to hear about that. I am not found of anyone else doing things to my cars (Atleast not what I can do). I can not do to much yet but I fig. it works a little llke my SV650s only bigger with more electronics. ok so maybe not.

But the dealership that I bought it from did not change the oil, add coolant from when they had to replace the water pump, or even wash the windows. I am kind of not surprised about the CEL that popped up less than 72 hours from owning the car.

So even though they have free oil changes, I really do not want to trust them to much.

Now back to Oil changes, I heard something about a "Special tool" needed what is that?
 
#27 ·
Hi all!!! New to the forum and appreciate all help now and in the future. I just done my own oil change on our 2014 Mazda 6. I got 2 questions..1) my plug had no rubber o-ring that you described, it was metal to metal. The car was brand new when we got it and doubt the service center done a change on it because it had like 20 miles on it. Is this important? I have never seen an oil plug with rubber ring. Also the oil was pretty black, I would have thought it would have looked fairly cleaner than that. Oh, forgot to mention the mileage is 6,675 miles. 2) I filled with a full 5 quarts and its only showing half full on dipstick, gonna let it sit for a bit after my short drive and hopefully get a better reading. There should be no reason it needs more right?
 
#28 ·
Do you guys swap the gasket or washer every oil change? My washer was loose... Unless I picked up the wrong washer from my drain pan. Shouldn't matter either way, right?

And if you guys are replacing the washer every oil change, are you guys just grabbing the ol Kragen/pep boys washers?

In all my other older cars I just reused the old washers until they disintegrated. Kinda paranoid about this new car though.

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#31 ·
Is everyone using Mazda Oil? I took mine to my dealership and they use the Mobile 1 Syn 0w20. They looked at me funny when I mentioned Moly... There is no way I am going back and paying for another change at the price they charged, so if its OK to continue with the Mobile 1 I will do so, as its fairly cheap. Assuming you all get filters at the dealership?
 
#36 ·
I really wish I had one of those valve thingies since drain plugs are about $11 a piece. Could've bought one already haha I'm just gonna stick to dealerships for oil changes seeing as how the cost of oil, filter and such is the same price as an oil change at my dealership.
 
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