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Didn't see one posted yet so here we go! I take zero responsibility if you screw it up, follow at own risk.
Tools required:

1. Jack + Jack stands (or a ramp would do fine)
2. Wheel blocks
3. Hockey puck (optional; to put between the jack and frame)
4. 8mm key
5. Screw driver
6. Flat head screw driver
7. Filter Wrench (Factory filter is a PITA to take off without one)
8. Pliers (to take off the factory gasket on the drain plug, mine was pretty stuck on there)
Oil + Filter
1. Mazda 0w-20 with Moly x 5qts
2. Mazda Oil Filter Part Number PE01-14-302
3. Drain plug gasket Part Number 9956-41-400


Step 1: Jack up your car and lay down your jack stands. ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS AND WHEEL BLOCKS
Here is the location that you want to jack. First image is taken from the front of the car. It's right smack middle of the picture with the, the location has dimples.

Here is another picture of the location, this is taken from driver side

Step 2: Remove oil drain/filter cover
The cover is held up with 2 screws and a pop off screw. The location is circled in this image.


Once you take off the cover, this is what you will see:

Everything is right there for you! Very easy. Drain plug is a 8mm allen and it uses a washer gasket.

Step 3: Drain oil and remove filter
You might need to use a plier to take off the washer from the drain plug


Step 4: Put everything on the bottom back together, less the cover (to check for leaks later)

Step 5: Fill oil from top

I took off the engine cover so it's easier to work with

Car takes about 4.7~4.8qts of 0w-20 (in the US)
Run the car for a couple of minutes and check for leaks all around.

If no leaks are found, put back the oil drain/filter cover.

Check oil level.

Remove the car from jack stands and take it out for a quick spin! Double check and triple check for leaks. You are done!

Happy zooming!

ps. forgot to take picture of jack stand location but you guys are smart... I use a towel between the jack stand and the lift location.
Edit: Mods, please move to DIY section. Thank you.
In step 2 you show the oild drain plug, Mazda dealer's are now selling a replacement oil drain plug with a hex head on it because the allen wrench opening gets stripped. Mine was stripped by techs from the Mazda dealer doing the oil changes.
 

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Is 9956-41-400 still the correct part # for the drain plug gasket?
For engine oil I show that number, yes. It may sub, but when I order that number from my dealer I get the right part.
 

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When you guys put in a Fumoto valve, do you use the aluminum crush washer (I’m thinking aluminum against brass = corrosion) or something other? On my last car (had a steel pan) I used a steel washer that had a neoprene coating on both sides. No leaks after 15 years.
 

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When you guys put in a Fumoto valve, do you use the aluminum crush washer (I’m thinking aluminum against brass = corrosion) or something other? On my last car (had a steel pan) I used a steel washer that had a neoprene coating on both sides. No leaks after 15 years.
Q. Hi my name is Rhonda, I'm in the hardware business and I am trying to find the correct answer for several of my customers as pertaining to small engine repair. The question is this:
If a brass pipe nipple is inserted into an aluminum block engine for the purpose of simplifying oil draining, will there be any galvanic action between the engine block and the brass nipple? Or would it be better to use black iron or galvanized iron?
Thank You.

A. Should be fine. Since the aluminum is relative much more anodic that the brass, it would normally experience more corrosion. However since the aluminum is so much more massive than the brass in your situation, it acts as a sink, and won't experience any concentrated corrosion. In a nutshell, galvanic corrosion becomes essentially negligible, and neither metal will corrode any faster than they would normally on their own.
 

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When you guys put in a Fumoto valve, do you use the aluminum crush washer (I’m thinking aluminum against brass = corrosion) or something other? On my last car (had a steel pan) I used a steel washer that had a neoprene coating on both sides. No leaks after 15 years.
Fumoto valve comes with its own washer. Use that one.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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When I got the new updated drain plug from the Mazda dealer the clerk behind the counter just gave me a new washer that looked like part # 9956-41-400. As far as corrosion goes, if you keep replacing the washer on every oil change and clean up the opening on the pan, corrosion should not be an issue.
 
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