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Ghost, do you recommend a good indy shop in and around Ellicott City for routine maintenance ? My HOA tightened restrictions on working on cars, and i hate going to the stealerships. Columbia,MD resident here !
 

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[QU
OTE=MilR;4857833]Ghost, do you recommend a good indy shop in and around Ellicott City for routine maintenance ? My HOA tightened restrictions on working on cars, and i hate going to the stealerships. Columbia,MD resident here ![/QUOTE]

Actually I'm trying to find one too, Theres a 40 lube and tune, I think it's called that but it's in Catonsville on rt 40 after you pass heritage Mazda on the left there's a shopping center there with panera bread and you'll see a shop right by the Wendy's, I'd go there to get my oil changed, but I have a friend that owns a body shop in East Baltimore, add here usually does my work for me. I just got this car a few weeks ago so I was looking for a shop also, if I find a good one I'll let you know. I know there's an few auto mechanic shops across dobin center where Audio Connections is also, you can check that out.
 

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Thanks for the confirmation. I ordered that part number this morning along with some replacement clips/screws. Hopefully the actual panel is available. Most of the sites I visited showed it was no longer available. It's pretty surprising that a car still currently in production has parts that are already discontinued/unavailable. I'm used to that in my 20+ year old Maximas and Civic but it's very surprising on a new car. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Anybody know what thread and pitch those screws are? I also did my first oil change recently on a new-to-me 2014 and the cover was missing. I'd rather pick some screws and washers up at Ace Hardware rather than pay $2 each at the dealer. I believe the Mazda p/n is 9CF600516B

- Edit -
Found the info on them if anybody else runs into this issue. Apparently it is a very commonly used screw across the entire Mazda lineup:
M5-1.81 x 16mm with an 8mm hex head and 16mm o.d. washer.
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/product_p/a22294.htm
 

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I'm getting ready for the first oil change on my 2017.5 and read through this entire thread. I have a couple of questions for the forum that don't seem to be answered yet:


1. Which Mazda OEM oil filter to use? It looks like there are at least 3 different filter part numbers for the Mazda 6:


PE01-14-302 - This was the original filter, made by Tokyo Roki in Japan. Seems to be a great quality filter, but it's unclear to me whether it's available anymore.
PE01-14-302A - Does anyone know what the difference is between the 302 and 302A versions? Presumably the A is the newer model, but is it still made in Japan and is one objectively better than the other?
1WPE-14-302 - It's made in Thailand, and people say it feels lighter and not as well constructed as the Tokyo Roki PE01 filters, but it seems to be all that dealers sell now. It's unclear who manufactures it. People speculate that it could be Tokyo Roki or Denso, both of whom have plants in Thailand.


I also see references to a Mazda Value filter, though it's not clear whether that's sold anymore, whether the 1WPE-14-302 is that filter's successor, or value even means that it's somehow inferior to the non-value version. What do folks here do? Do you just install the 1WPE-14-302 because it's the latest version and readily available, or you do go out of your way to source a PE01-14-302(A) filter?


2. Which Fumoto valve to use? I wasn't initially thinking about installing a Fumoto valve, but that replacement OEM drain plugs cost about 1/2 the price of a Fumoto and the hex head will inevitably strip out every few oil changes, I think I'm just going to go ahead and install a Fumoto and be done with it. I like the promised convenience and that fact that it eliminates the risk of stripping the drain plug and/or pan with every oil change. Which version of the Fumoto valve do you recommend?


F106N - This seems to be the one most people have opted for (not sure because that was the only option in 2014, or if people just piled on when someone started using it. It's got a longer nipple than the other one I'm considering, which is both good and bad. The good is that it makes it easier to put a plastic hose over it to drain the oil neatly. The bad is that it makes the whole valve stick out further. Is there any clearance issue with using the F106N?
F106S - This looks like the same valve, but with a short nipple. It's harder to secure tubing over the S, but the advantage is that the valve body sticks out less


Thanks in advance for any insight.
 

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I'm getting ready for the first oil change on my 2017.5 and read through this entire thread. I have a couple of questions for the forum that don't seem to be answered yet:


1. Which Mazda OEM oil filter to use? It looks like there are at least 3 different filter part numbers for the Mazda 6:


PE01-14-302 - This was the original filter, made by Tokyo Roki in Japan. Seems to be a great quality filter, but it's unclear to me whether it's available anymore.
PE01-14-302A - Does anyone know what the difference is between the 302 and 302A versions? Presumably the A is the newer model, but is it still made in Japan and is one objectively better than the other?
1WPE-14-302 - It's made in Thailand, and people say it feels lighter and not as well constructed as the Tokyo Roki PE01 filters, but it seems to be all that dealers sell now. It's unclear who manufactures it. People speculate that it could be Tokyo Roki or Denso, both of whom have plants in Thailand.


I also see references to a Mazda Value filter, though it's not clear whether that's sold anymore, whether the 1WPE-14-302 is that filter's successor, or value even means that it's somehow inferior to the non-value version. What do folks here do? Do you just install the 1WPE-14-302 because it's the latest version and readily available, or you do go out of your way to source a PE01-14-302(A) filter?


2. Which Fumoto valve to use? I wasn't initially thinking about installing a Fumoto valve, but that replacement OEM drain plugs cost about 1/2 the price of a Fumoto and the hex head will inevitably strip out every few oil changes, I think I'm just going to go ahead and install a Fumoto and be done with it. I like the promised convenience and that fact that it eliminates the risk of stripping the drain plug and/or pan with every oil change. Which version of the Fumoto valve do you recommend?


F106N - This seems to be the one most people have opted for (not sure because that was the only option in 2014, or if people just piled on when someone started using it. It's got a longer nipple than the other one I'm considering, which is both good and bad. The good is that it makes it easier to put a plastic hose over it to drain the oil neatly. The bad is that it makes the whole valve stick out further. Is there any clearance issue with using the F106N?
F106S - This looks like the same valve, but with a short nipple. It's harder to secure tubing over the S, but the advantage is that the valve body sticks out less


Thanks in advance for any insight.


Don't you have Yojin's Warranty? It is not exactly warranty for parts but a free service offered for changing fluids up to 60,000 km or three years whichever comes first.

During that period, I don't have to pay any single centavo as the oil and filter are absolutely free.

Regarding the Fumoto, I'm interested as well. I'm​ now approaching 30,000 km so I'm expecting that I'll​ have to do my oil change, cabin filter, air filter, brake fluid and others.

I don't remember any recommendations for the transmission oil regarding its interval and type. My plan is, I'll ask the dealer to change it at 60,000 km and note how it is done

EDIT:

I remember I have taken pictures of it.

Oil Filter



Air Filter



Cabin Filter



Location of drain plug



EDIT:

I just realized, you might have a different model. What I have is the diesel variant, 2018 SKYACTIV-D 2.2 L. I bought it last December 19, 2017.
 

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EDIT:

I just realized, you might have a different model. What I have is the diesel variant, 2018 SKYACTIV-D 2.2 L. I bought it last December 19, 2017.

Thanks anyway Archerfish. I don't think we have Yojin's warranty in the US. Pretty impressive that you've racked up 30,000 kms on a 2018 already. I'm just about to break 7000 miles on my 2017.5.


Is your car an automatic or a manual? The recommendation around here is to change manual transmission fluid every 30,000 miles.
 

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Comment re drain plug: I continue to use the OEM 8mm Allen head plug, ea. time with a new aluminum crush washer + I use a torque wrench to tighten it up. Important to use new washer ea. time! I went out of my way to find a 3/8" drive 8mm hex bit with a great / tight fit into the hex. 23 - 30 lb. ft. torque value if memory serves (please independently check ths 'cuz this sounds too high!). This will serve well over the long run cuz ea. time with a new (soft, uncompressed) Al. crush washer means I can stay at the lowest torque value in the range and not suffer leaks. Key is a new washer!
 

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Thanks Cdn17Sport6MT. My original intent was to continue to use the OEM plug as well, but I'm reading anecdotes of people stripping the hex key hole, requiring the drain plug to be replaced at $12 a pop every few oil changes. No doubt they're not using a torque wrench and/or are tightening the plug too much...but it got me thinking...


A Fumoto valve is only $25 to $30, and should last the life of the car. A few replacements of the OEM drain plug and the valve would have paid for itself. Plus it gives you the added convenience of easier oil changes and less mess. I think I'm just going to go ahead and get the F106S valve. It's got a shorter nipple than the F106N, and while there's no clearance issue on our cars, I don't want the valve body to protrude any further than it needs to.


Also taking this opportunity to re-iterate my questions from yesterday, so they don't get lost in this thread. I'd appreciate any guidance on the oil filter if anyone is knowledgeable on that:


--------------------------------------------

1. Which Mazda OEM oil filter to use? It looks like there are at least 3 different filter part numbers for the Mazda 6:

PE01-14-302 - This was the original filter, made by Tokyo Roki in Japan. Seems to be a great quality filter, but it's unclear to me whether it's available anymore.
PE01-14-302A - Does anyone know what the difference is between the 302 and 302A versions? Presumably the A is the newer model, but is it still made in Japan and is one objectively better than the other?
1WPE-14-302 - It's made in Thailand, and people say it feels lighter and not as well constructed as the Tokyo Roki PE01 filters, but it seems to be all that dealers sell now. It's unclear who manufactures it. People speculate that it could be Tokyo Roki or Denso, both of whom have plants in Thailand.

I also see references to a Mazda Value filter, though it's not clear whether that's sold anymore, whether the 1WPE-14-302 is that filter's successor, or value even means that it's somehow inferior to the non-value version. What do folks here do? Do you just install the 1WPE-14-302 because it's the latest version and readily available, or you do go out of your way to source a PE01-14-302(A) filter?

2. Which Fumoto valve to use? I wasn't initially thinking about installing a Fumoto valve, but that replacement OEM drain plugs cost about 1/2 the price of a Fumoto and the hex head will inevitably strip out every few oil changes, I think I'm just going to go ahead and install a Fumoto and be done with it. I like the promised convenience and that fact that it eliminates the risk of stripping the drain plug and/or pan with every oil change. Which version of the Fumoto valve do you recommend?


F106N - This seems to be the one most people have opted for (not sure because that was the only option in 2014, or if people just piled on when someone started using it. It's got a longer nipple than the other one I'm considering, which is both good and bad. The good is that it makes it easier to put a plastic hose over it to drain the oil neatly. The bad is that it makes the whole valve stick out further. Is there any clearance issue with using the F106N?
F106S - This looks like the same valve, but with a short nipple. It's harder to secure tubing over the S, but the advantage is that the valve body sticks out less




-----------------------------------------------------------------------
 

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Thanks anyway Archerfish. I don't think we have Yojin's warranty in the US. Pretty impressive that you've racked up 30,000 kms on a 2018 already. I'm just about to break 7000 miles on my 2017.5.


Is your car an automatic or a manual? The recommendation around here is to change manual transmission fluid every 30,000 miles.
That means we are fortunate enough to have this so called Yojin's Warranty! I know, part of marketing strategy. Anyways, Mazda has a miniscule share on the market compared to Toyota and others. OVT even decided to "abandon" Mazda because of this.

My car is automatic and I can't see myself going back to manual with the horrendous traffic jam in our place. If I'm feeling lazy, I'd say sometimes that "I don't know how to drive a manual car."

They say that manual is great and automatics are girly, a joke running around us locally, but I guess I'm getting old so I prefer an automatic transmission.


Thank you for the tip regarding the oil change interval for the transmission.

I really enjoy the car and I don't want to drive anything else except our 6. I guess I'm already a fanboy of Mazda, and becoming a Mazda 6 fanatic. That should explain how I easily racked up 30,000 km.




By the way, what's going on in this photo. did the dealer actually cut out the plastic cover that's protecting your oil pan? Doesn't look like the way it would have come from the factory.
That one has a cover and removed to access the drain plug. The yellow part is the lock for the cover. They almost forgot to return the cover last time. Good thing I noticed.
 

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IMHO MTX has a 50k mile fluid (oil) change interval. And NEVER, EVER, put a GL-5 fluid in there. Only GL-4. Yes, it matters, and if both (GL4/5) DO NOT use it. GL-4 75w80 is the correct spec. Redline makes an excellent MTX oil that meets that spec. DO NOT use Mobil 1 or similar; they are all GL-5 which is great in a differential but will DESTROY the synchros in a MTX in ~50k miles or less.
Thanks @tickerguy. I just crossed 6,000 miles in 9 months of ownership (...consequence of splitting mileage across 3 cars). At this rate, I'm a long way away from having to change my MTX fluid, but I value your opinion and have mentally filed your recommendation away for future reference.
 

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After 3 free dealership oil changes I did it myself yesterday. I originally got a PureOne filter from Advance Auto but then I was reading this thread and the talk of Skyactive-specific bypass valve settings got me thinking. So I went to the dealership and got OEM filters - for about the same price as the PureOne. But the OEM filter is quite a bit smaller than the PureOne. Makes me think I'm missing out on additional filter area. I know I know the quality of the filter is more important.

Also the talk of stripping out the allen head drain plug led me to buy a hex head plug from the dealer for about $7. That's good peace of mind against not being able to remove it in the future.
 

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With 165,000 miles on my "6" I have seen zero evidence that the OE filter is inadequate in any way. UOAs have all come back stellar, showing near-zero wear metal levels.

The stealer near me does a "buy 3, get 4" deal on oil filters. Whether you get the Mexico "value" ones or the Japanese/Thai "regular" ones seems to matter on which truck came with a supply of them last to the dealer, but I've also seen no difference in performance between either of those too, having run multiple sets of both. The only difference I can discern visibly is that the Japanese ones have O-ring style gaskets while the Mexican ones have flat ("conventional", for an oil filter) gaskets and the Mexican ones are slightly larger in circumference and lock into the "upper" part of my filter wrench .vs. the Japanese ones which lock into the "lower" part.
 

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Also the talk of stripping out the allen head drain plug led me to buy a hex head plug from the dealer for about $7. That's good peace of mind against not being able to remove it in the future.

Keep in mind that the use of an allen head might be intentional. Safer to have the drain plug head stripped from over torqueing than to have your oil pan threads stripped. I've gotten into the habit of using a torque wrench to reinstall the drainplugs on my cars to avoid any issues that will lead to me cursing like a sailor at having to replace an oil pan.

With 165,000 miles on my "6" I have seen zero evidence that the OE filter is inadequate in any way. UOAs have all come back stellar, showing near-zero wear metal levels...

...I've also seen no difference in performance between either of those too, having run multiple sets of both. The only difference I can discern visibly is that the Japanese ones have O-ring style gaskets while the Mexican ones have flat ("conventional", for an oil filter) gaskets and the Mexican ones are slightly larger in circumference and lock into the "upper" part of my filter wrench .vs. the Japanese ones which lock into the "lower" part.

Cool, thanks for answering my question and confirming they all seem to work equally well. Is the guidance for tightening the same for an o-ring style gasket vs. a flat one? I seem to recall you had some thoughts on this at one point, though I can't seem to find the post. Super impressive how many trouble free miles you've accumulated on your 6. It's a testament to both the car and the OV Tune you've been running most of that time. Do you think you'll be able to hit 250,000 miles before any major issues surface?
 

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IMHO "proper" tightening for an oil filter is to compress the gasket sufficiently so it cannot extrude. This means the metal of the can should meet the metal of the block -- just. Make sure you oil the new gasket as well so it can move as you tighten the filter (otherwise it can "bunch up" which will leak.)

~1 turn from contact with the base appears to be approximately correct to accomplish this with both models.

As for 250k who knows. The only deterioration at all I've seen is that there is a slight amount of seepage on both my oil control valve and also around the valve cover gasket generally. The latter is not unusual with any engine. Neither is worth taking corrective action on at this time, but we shall see how things go as time progresses.

The water pump is easily accessible on these engines and is driven by a separate (no tensioner required as it's a "stretchy") belt so it so there are no obvious "gotchas" in terms of engine accessories that, should they cause trouble, will be hard to take care of. So far nothing has required attention other than routine maintenance and wear parts (e.g. brakes, battery, etc.)
 

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Also the talk of stripping out the allen head drain plug led me to buy a hex head plug from the dealer for about $7. That's good peace of mind against not being able to remove it in the future.
No hint of a problem for me with the OEM hex drain plug: 23-30 ft lbs. torque spec ( I use 25); always a new aluminum crush gasket; and I bought a 3/8 " drive 8mm (IMSMC ? ) bit that fits the drain plug very well and deeply engages (no slop). Then again, my purchase of the tool is likely more $ than your $7 hex plug LOL. Oh well, I like OEM, stock...

Oh, sorry... I looked earlier-on in this thread, and I see that I said more or less the same thing on Jan 22nd... Oh well...
 

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No hint of a problem for me with the OEM hex drain plug:
Keep in mind that the use of an allen head might be intentional. Safer to have the drain plug head stripped from over torqueing than to have your oil pan threads stripped.
Yeah I'm not saying it WOULD have become a problem, but I didn't want even a chance of it getting stripped because then whaddaya gonna do? You'd have to remove the oil pan and drill it out.

IMHO "proper" tightening for an oil filter is to compress the gasket sufficiently so it cannot extrude. This means the metal of the can should meet the metal of the block -- just. Make sure you oil the new gasket as well so it can move as you tighten the filter (otherwise it can "bunch up" which will leak.)

~1 turn from contact with the base appears to be approximately correct to accomplish this with both models
The Thai-built OEM filter has very clear instructions printed right on the shell: turn 3/4 turn after the gasket first makes contact. I noticed that it becomes almost impossible to turn by hand after 3/4 turn, which seems like perfect torque to me. Turning it 1 full turn after contact as you suggest seems like WAY too much torque, and goes against the explicit instructions. Good luck to you!
 
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