Anybody know what thread and pitch those screws are? I also did my first oil change recently on a new-to-me 2014 and the cover was missing. I'd rather pick some screws and washers up at Ace Hardware rather than pay $2 each at the dealer. I believe the Mazda p/n is 9CF600516BThanks for the confirmation. I ordered that part number this morning along with some replacement clips/screws. Hopefully the actual panel is available. Most of the sites I visited showed it was no longer available. It's pretty surprising that a car still currently in production has parts that are already discontinued/unavailable. I'm used to that in my 20+ year old Maximas and Civic but it's very surprising on a new car. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
I'm getting ready for the first oil change on my 2017.5 and read through this entire thread. I have a couple of questions for the forum that don't seem to be answered yet:
1. Which Mazda OEM oil filter to use? It looks like there are at least 3 different filter part numbers for the Mazda 6:
PE01-14-302 - This was the original filter, made by Tokyo Roki in Japan. Seems to be a great quality filter, but it's unclear to me whether it's available anymore.
PE01-14-302A - Does anyone know what the difference is between the 302 and 302A versions? Presumably the A is the newer model, but is it still made in Japan and is one objectively better than the other?
1WPE-14-302 - It's made in Thailand, and people say it feels lighter and not as well constructed as the Tokyo Roki PE01 filters, but it seems to be all that dealers sell now. It's unclear who manufactures it. People speculate that it could be Tokyo Roki or Denso, both of whom have plants in Thailand.
I also see references to a Mazda Value filter, though it's not clear whether that's sold anymore, whether the 1WPE-14-302 is that filter's successor, or value even means that it's somehow inferior to the non-value version. What do folks here do? Do you just install the 1WPE-14-302 because it's the latest version and readily available, or you do go out of your way to source a PE01-14-302(A) filter?
2. Which Fumoto valve to use? I wasn't initially thinking about installing a Fumoto valve, but that replacement OEM drain plugs cost about 1/2 the price of a Fumoto and the hex head will inevitably strip out every few oil changes, I think I'm just going to go ahead and install a Fumoto and be done with it. I like the promised convenience and that fact that it eliminates the risk of stripping the drain plug and/or pan with every oil change. Which version of the Fumoto valve do you recommend?
F106N - This seems to be the one most people have opted for (not sure because that was the only option in 2014, or if people just piled on when someone started using it. It's got a longer nipple than the other one I'm considering, which is both good and bad. The good is that it makes it easier to put a plastic hose over it to drain the oil neatly. The bad is that it makes the whole valve stick out further. Is there any clearance issue with using the F106N?
F106S - This looks like the same valve, but with a short nipple. It's harder to secure tubing over the S, but the advantage is that the valve body sticks out less
Thanks in advance for any insight.
I just realized, you might have a different model. What I have is the diesel variant, 2018 SKYACTIV-D 2.2 L. I bought it last December 19, 2017.
That means we are fortunate enough to have this so called Yojin's Warranty! I know, part of marketing strategy. Anyways, Mazda has a miniscule share on the market compared to Toyota and others. OVT even decided to "abandon" Mazda because of this.Thanks anyway Archerfish. I don't think we have Yojin's warranty in the US. Pretty impressive that you've racked up 30,000 kms on a 2018 already. I'm just about to break 7000 miles on my 2017.5.
Is your car an automatic or a manual? The recommendation around here is to change manual transmission fluid every 30,000 miles.
That one has a cover and removed to access the drain plug. The yellow part is the lock for the cover. They almost forgot to return the cover last time. Good thing I noticed.By the way, what's going on in this photo. did the dealer actually cut out the plastic cover that's protecting your oil pan? Doesn't look like the way it would have come from the factory.
Thanks @tickerguy. I just crossed 6,000 miles in 9 months of ownership (...consequence of splitting mileage across 3 cars). At this rate, I'm a long way away from having to change my MTX fluid, but I value your opinion and have mentally filed your recommendation away for future reference.IMHO MTX has a 50k mile fluid (oil) change interval. And NEVER, EVER, put a GL-5 fluid in there. Only GL-4. Yes, it matters, and if both (GL4/5) DO NOT use it. GL-4 75w80 is the correct spec. Redline makes an excellent MTX oil that meets that spec. DO NOT use Mobil 1 or similar; they are all GL-5 which is great in a differential but will DESTROY the synchros in a MTX in ~50k miles or less.
Also the talk of stripping out the allen head drain plug led me to buy a hex head plug from the dealer for about $7. That's good peace of mind against not being able to remove it in the future.
With 165,000 miles on my "6" I have seen zero evidence that the OE filter is inadequate in any way. UOAs have all come back stellar, showing near-zero wear metal levels...
...I've also seen no difference in performance between either of those too, having run multiple sets of both. The only difference I can discern visibly is that the Japanese ones have O-ring style gaskets while the Mexican ones have flat ("conventional", for an oil filter) gaskets and the Mexican ones are slightly larger in circumference and lock into the "upper" part of my filter wrench .vs. the Japanese ones which lock into the "lower" part.
No hint of a problem for me with the OEM hex drain plug: 23-30 ft lbs. torque spec ( I use 25); always a new aluminum crush gasket; and I bought a 3/8 " drive 8mm (IMSMC ? ) bit that fits the drain plug very well and deeply engages (no slop). Then again, my purchase of the tool is likely more $ than your $7 hex plug LOL. Oh well, I like OEM, stock...Also the talk of stripping out the allen head drain plug led me to buy a hex head plug from the dealer for about $7. That's good peace of mind against not being able to remove it in the future.
No hint of a problem for me with the OEM hex drain plug:
Yeah I'm not saying it WOULD have become a problem, but I didn't want even a chance of it getting stripped because then whaddaya gonna do? You'd have to remove the oil pan and drill it out.Keep in mind that the use of an allen head might be intentional. Safer to have the drain plug head stripped from over torqueing than to have your oil pan threads stripped.
The Thai-built OEM filter has very clear instructions printed right on the shell: turn 3/4 turn after the gasket first makes contact. I noticed that it becomes almost impossible to turn by hand after 3/4 turn, which seems like perfect torque to me. Turning it 1 full turn after contact as you suggest seems like WAY too much torque, and goes against the explicit instructions. Good luck to you!IMHO "proper" tightening for an oil filter is to compress the gasket sufficiently so it cannot extrude. This means the metal of the can should meet the metal of the block -- just. Make sure you oil the new gasket as well so it can move as you tighten the filter (otherwise it can "bunch up" which will leak.)
~1 turn from contact with the base appears to be approximately correct to accomplish this with both models