[TiGraySpeed6]

moment in google finds this post:
(NOTE: THESE ARE NOT SPEED6 SPECS- he has the 6i)

http://forum.mazda6club.com/suspension-brakes/198591-rotor-thickness-specifications.html

This is from alldata.com, (which uses 80% of the free workshop manual which is readily available).

Front - Minimum thickness after machining - 23mm

Front - Minimum thickness after on-vehicle brake lathe machining - 23.8mm


Rear - Minimum thickness after machining - 8mm

Rear - Minimum thickness after on-vehicle brake lathe machining - 8.8mm

Measure the thickness in different positions of the rotor. If thinner than these minimum thicknesses, replace the rotors.

 

[AtTheDriveIn]

I'm actually thinking of upgrading mine to power slot cross drilled rotors and ebc pads, for looks basically. I just don't have any idea of when the rotors need changing.

NOOOOOOO!!!! I mean, that's not a good idea. I had a set of slotted and cross-drilled rotors and I warped the shit out of them in like three months from hard braking to the point where the brake pedal shook. You can get away with slotted. I just wouldn't do drilled. It weakens the structural integrity and with the heat generated, it doesn't help any. I've been running Centric Premium blanks w/Hawk HPS pads. The only complaint I have is the terrible brake dust, but I don't care when I have some sweet braking power...

 

[RayDog26]

i thought slotted were only needed for towing heavy shit. i didn't know that about drilled tho.

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

I run slotted for their water shedding characteristics more than anything else. They look sweet as well, but in an underlstated way.

Drilled, really only for those who swap em out between, or during, races...

 

[RayDog26]

interesting... funny how people have such different opinions. i was always told different. thanks for good advice everyone.

how is slotted for comfort and pad life ?? i was told they eat pads fast and you feel shaky when braking. this true ?

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

Ive used the same basic stage one upgrade on my last several rides, and consider it the first brake job of any car I own anymore....
Hawk HPS pads
Slotted rotors to OEM specs - many good brands, but stoptech or centric
stainless braided lines
Super Blue (good fluid, but damn the color change makes flushing easy)

In my experience, blank rotors can and will build up a film of water between the rotor & pad. Especially if extended distance between use, or pad on rotor contact.

It's a pretty minor thing, but a second waiting for your brakes to kick in, well, it's a pretty goddamn loooooong second.

slotted clears the water at pedal press. Instantly. Done deal.

no shaky feel, that would be out of balance and often caused by improper cooling of the rotor, as in hard use then parking, allowing the exposed rotor to cool faster than the rotor covered by caliper.

there is a distinct feel to slotted rotors when under heavy braking. you barely feel a kind of, well......., it like "zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz" thru the pedal. I like it- it means they're doing their job.

 

[theMazdaratti]

take your time the first time and you will fly through them every time after that.

now try to do drum brakes without the special tools. thats a bitch. you end up with springs flying at you from every angle.

omg yes.

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

That's why you make sure to take both sides apart while drinking yourself into a blind frenzy.

That way when you stare at the random pile of springs & parts the next morning, with a hangover, you won't have anything to go by for reassembly.

with a hangover.

 

[JDspeed6]

Did I read right that you need to actually remove the caliper from the brake hose? I've replaced several rotors on other make cars and never had to remove the caliper. Can't you just let the caliper hang or prop it up/move it out of the way while leaving it connected?

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

Shouldn't have to just for a rotor swap.
Only reason I've ever pulled em is to replace them or to rebuild/replace the caliper.

 

[JDspeed6]

Good to hear, really was trying to avoid bleeding the brakes if possible.

Tig, whats your thoughts on the Centric Cryogenic blank rotors Vs the Centric blank non-cryo treated rotors? I am leaning towards the less expensive non-cryo but don't want something inferior to at least OE.

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

To me, it's totally "Meh....., whatever"

I don't autocross or track day my car, just aggressive street driving. I love my brakes, but I'll get two sets of pads on one set of slotted rotors before replacing, over 100K miles.

Cryo makes em more durable, but I can spend that extra ~$50ish on something else...

 

[JDspeed6]

To me, it's totally "Meh....., whatever"

I don't autocross or track day my car, just aggressive street driving. I love my brakes, but I'll get two sets of pads on one set of slotted rotors before replacing, over 100K miles.

Cryo makes em more durable, but I can spend that extra ~$50ish on something else...

I have very similar driving habits and think I'll just stick to spending that $50 elsewhere!

On my previous car (350Z) I was getting roughly the same amount of mileage on my slotted rotors w/ Hawk HPS pads.

Anyway, thanks!

 

[JDspeed6]

One last question...any specific DOT 3 or 4?

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

If your just topping off, any good DOT4 works. Prestone is fine if you want a name to look for.

If you're flushing with fresh, I'm a huge fan of SuperBlue and it's Amber twin simply because the color change makes flushing soooo easy.

And, for the record, if you've never flushed your fluid, you've timed out & it really needs to be done!

 

[Final Impact]

Good to hear, really was trying to avoid bleeding the brakes if possible.

Tig, whats your thoughts on the Centric Cryogenic blank rotors Vs the Centric blank non-cryo treated rotors? I am leaning towards the less expensive non-cryo but don't want something inferior to at least OE.

Why would you avoid this? The fluid attracts moisture and breaks down over time. Removing the moisture and sediment from the system will greatly extend the life of the components and make a positive peddle. It should be done every two years or during pad changes as you have to press the pucks back in anyway and its a bad idea to force all the crap back into the master cylinder.

 

[JDspeed6]

I am being lazy about it because of my work enviroment, very cold outside! But your both right, I need to do it and beings I'm replacing my brakes and rotors no better time to do it then now.

Excuse my ignorance but will I have to bleed all four brakes, there is not a seperate resevoir for front and back right? Reason I ask is I'm only trying to replace the front at this time and having all 4 tires off the car isn't likely, don't have 4 jack stands or a lift.

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

While a simple bleed can be done on just the corners serviced if needed, bleeding, or flushing, is ideally recommended to touch 5 points- don't forget the clutch which shares the common master cylinder & fluid with the brakes.

Again, considering the age of your fluid I'd encourage flushing the entire system with fresh. Using something like a Motive Power Bleeder makes it an easy fast painless one person job.

 

[JDspeed6]

Ahh, forgot about the clutch fluid too. I just decided I'm ordering everything and bringing it to my mechanic to do, don't feel like tackling this one right now. I can't wait to sell my home and get one with a huge garage!

BTW, will 4 bottles of brake fluid be enough for a complete swap?

Thanks again TiGray, your the man!

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

It's never taken me more than a liter, but not everybody is so lucky
With 4 it's possible one bottle won't even be opened, but sure is a PITA to run out 99% of the way through, just ask @IHeartGroceries;