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you can use an electric or an air one just be careful because they are more torque and you risk snapping bolt in half.
 

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Lowspeed
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no impact drivers on the caliper mounting bolts- you'll never fit it on there, much less be able to swing at it. Nice for rotor screws tho.

No heat there either please- lotsa nifty rubber & semi-touchy electronics like your ABS sensors.

For the 17mm caliper mount bolts, use a 1/2 inch drive, pref a breaker bar, and if needed a cheater of some sort. Add in your basic BFH and your ready to remove the bolts.

Please, please be sure your putting your effort in the correct direction. Nothing worse than finding out your trying to tighten rather than loosen the bolts.
 

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QUOTE (myarbro1 @ Apr 28 2009, 09:01 PM)

After breaking non-impact bits and drilling out 3 screws... I tried the "hammer it" and "impact it" method, which worked perfectly....

1. Take a screw driver and hammer, and strike the screw 3 times.
2. Take a old socket that is larger than the screw head and strike the socket (hence around the screw) 3 times.
3. Attempt impact for a couple seconds.
4. repeat 1-3.

2 rounds of this and both screws came out without breaking my last bit, or stripping the head of the screw.
This works...try it!!
 

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Maybe I need to get an 18" breaker bar and a 17mm 1/2" socket to try to get the caliper bolts off...I was just trying to use a regular wrench. Not sure how well the breaker bar will fit in there since there's not much clearance...
 

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Maybe I need to get an 18" breaker bar and a 17mm 1/2" socket to try to get the caliper bolts off...I was just trying to use a regular wrench. Not sure how well the breaker bar will fit in there since there's not much clearance...
Ummm...turn the wheel?
 

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CW turns it in
(clockwise)
 

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it should turn in on its own just by applying downward pressure on it like any oher caliper.
 

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The impact driver is really only going to apply to the rotor retaining screws.

The OP was asking about the caliper mounting bolts. Two choices there, the allen head sliders which allow changing of just the pads when removed, or the caliper mounting bracket bolts, which need to come out to swap rotors.

There should be no need for heat, and no room to use an impact driver. Sure, the driver might fit, but you'll never swing a hammer back in there....

From above-

no impact drivers on the caliper mounting bolts- you'll never fit it on there, much less be able to swing at it. Nice for rotor screws tho.

No heat there either please- lotsa nifty rubber & semi-touchy electronics like your ABS sensors.

For the 17mm caliper mount bolts, use a 1/2 inch drive, pref a breaker bar, and if needed a cheater of some sort. Add in your basic BFH and your ready to remove the bolts.

Please, please be sure your putting your effort in the correct direction. Nothing worse than finding out your trying to tighten rather than loosen the bolts.
 

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I use this...
 

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hey guys i cant seem to find this mentioned anywhere but which direction should the caliper piston be turned?
Are you talking about the front or rear caliper?
 

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heh-
I 'assumed' he meant the rear's, since the fronts just compress :)
 

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take your time the first time and you will fly through them every time after that.

now try to do drum brakes without the special tools. thats a bitch. you end up with springs flying at you from every angle.
 

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When should I change my rotors?

I searched for a while, but couldn't find out the answer. I'm only at 39k on my 07 6i and my brakes aren't squealing yet, but I'm not sure when (mileage) you would normally change the rotors on the 6.
 

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in general, rotors are a wear based replacement, not a time based item.

Sorry, I do not know the replacement specs on the 6i. in general, if you have a good lip on the outer edge, change em.

I didn't even bother to get the specs on the speed6 - I replaced mine for enthusiast reasons, not wear, as part of a stage1 upgrade.
 

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I'm actually thinking of upgrading mine to power slot cross drilled rotors and ebc pads, for looks basically. I just don't have any idea of when the rotors need changing.
 

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it is not often you need rotors unless you ride the brake or something fails. but like tigrayspeed said its wear based. if you have a lip around the edge or you have a wobble in wheel when braking thats a good indication.
 
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