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This DIY is for the removal and replacement of the V6 MTX of the First gen. This is something that many members are scared to do because of the fact you have to remove the subframe to get it out, but this How-to will walk you thru it the entire process.

NOTE- i somehow lost my camera so this how to will be a joint function work of art from Me and Withersdavid who is so graciously helping out with great pictures that im editing to make a great how-to. Thank you very much bro!!!!


TOOLS NEEDED:

-floor jack (be sure its big enough to raise the car at least 20-24" off of the ground)
-jackstands (minimun of two)
-3/8" drive or 1/2" drive ratchet (it is your choice, i use 3/8" drive)
-13mm socket
-17mm socket
-8mm socket
-10mm socket
-15mm socket
-21mm Deepwell Socket
-23mm socket
-Metric Set of Ratcheting Wrenches (or at least a 12mm, 13mm, 14mm)
-impact gun or breaker bar (impact gun is recommended but not needed)
-small home propane torch (can be found at home depot) (i use mapp gas tourch because it heats faster than propane)
-flat-head prybar
-cross tip screwdriver [/color](phillips head)
-flat-tip screwdriver
-floor transmission jack (recomended but not needed if you have one more person with you to help lifting the tranny out of the car and back in)
-suitable fluid draining container

MATERIALS NEEDED:

-3qts of your choice of gear oil (i recommend Shaeffers)


NOTE- i will add the rest of the tools over the next few days


APPOXIMATE TIME NEEDED:

3-4 hours for removal
3-4 hours for installation



HOW-TO:

1. park the vehicle on level ground and chock the rear wheels

2. disconnect the negative and positive battery terminals (10mm)

3. undo the battery hold-down (10mm) and remove the battery


4. remove three nuts that bolt down the battery tray (10mm) and remove the battery tray

5. remove the respective air intake assembly from vehicle engine bay (bolt sizes may vary between stock and aftermarket air intake systems)


NOTE: this is how it should look now


6. while the car is still on the ground, use the breaker to break the wheel lugs loose on both front wheels. DO NOT REMOVE THEM COMPLETELY!!!!

7. using your floor jack position it under the front jacking point of the car. That your time and make sure your have the jacking point secure in the lifting surface of the jack. if the car slips off the jack you can hurt your self or your car. so take your time.


8. jack up the car as far as possible to give your self plenty of room to work under there. (i recommend a minimum of 20"-24" of ground clearance) and support the car safely with jackstands on both side of the car


9. remove the wheels by removing 5 lugnuts each from both wheels


10. remove the plastic side splash guard from both wheel wells (10mm & crosstip screwdriver)

11. remove the starter by removing two mounting bolts (13mm)

12. remove the plastic undercover that is attached to the subframe (10mm)

13. remove the MTX drain plug and drain into a suitable container

14. remove both shifter linkage connectors from the transmission.


NOTE: the connectors are round one is vertical and one is horizontal and both are held in by a spring clip on each one. just take a flat tip screwdriver pry up on the spring clip and pull both of them out. SEE PICS BELOW:





15. remove the shifter cables from the bracket thats attached to the transmission


NOTE: there are two. i advise leaving the cable attached to the bracket by the plastic clips. they are easy to break. some of you may already notice that the plastic clip(s) are broken. mine has been broken for the longest time, held in by a zip tie. if you slide your hand down the back side of the bracket you will feel 2 bolt heads. (12mm) i recommend taking then off with the bracket shown above by removing the 2 bolts.


16. remove two (23mm) Nuts from the lower control arms on the Driverside


17. flip the two nuts upside down and thread them back onto the ball joints. Thread them in until you are about 2 threads from the studs protruding from the nuts.

18. using your hammer. bluntly, sharply and precisly bang up on each nut until each ball joint pops free.

NOTE: once the ball joint come free, unthread the nuts a few threads at a time and tapping them with the hammer to force the ball joints out of the slots until you can pull them out by hand.

NOTE: the rearmost ball joint is sleeved. so there is a possibility that the sleeve will come out with the ball joint. if it does, just be sure not to loose it. and be sure to reinstall it.

19. Remove the lower shock tower mounting bolt (15mm)




20. Repeat Steps 16-19 on the passenger side of the vehicle

21. go to the driverside and remove two mounting bolts (15mm) from the steering rack


22. remove two mounting bolts (8mm) from the steering gear heat shield.

NOTE - one of them is easily accessible from the pass. side wheel well where the splash guard is removed


NOTE - the other is best accessed going at it from behind and over the rear of the subframe

23. with the steering rack heat shield removed you should now be able to see the 3rd mounting bolt for the steering rack.

NOTE - it may take some working to get the heatshield out. it can be left there if you want. its only removed to give access to the last bolt on the steering rack.

24. using mechanics wire, rope, wire, or something that can support about 30 pounds. tie the steering rack up as close to the headers as possible.

NOTE - i tied the rack right to the headers/exhaust manifold. it wont damage anything as its not that heavy.

25. go back to the driverside and using a screwdriver or punch type tool of your choice. bang out the Axle nut lip that is creased into the notch on the axle.


26. Using your 32mm remove the axle nut from the driverside axle

27. grab the bottom of the spindle and pull it out away from the car and back towards the rear of the car.

NOTE - your axle should start to come out of the hub.

28. pull the axle out of the hub

29. take your pry bar and stick it inbetween the inner axle and transmission housing. be sure to go from the bottom.

30. with a quick steady pry. pop the driverside axle out of the transmission and set it to the side.

NOTE - the following procedure involves removing the subframe. I ADVISE having a buddy with you to do this. or at the minimum a jack to help support the Subframe (it weights an ackward 100-150lbs or so) otherwise, you stand a high chance of hurting yourself.

31. move under the car to the rear of the subframe and remove 2 bolts from each side of the subframe secondary support (15mm)


32. remove the bolt from three clamps that run along the suframe. (10mm)

NOTE - you can follow the lines coming off of the power steering resevoir to trace back to where the bolts are. they hold the hard pressure lines down to the subframe

33. Working together with your buddy. work the Main subframe bolts off of the Subframe studs until you have them all off.






NOTE- THIS ISNT FINISHED YET, I WILL BE UPDATING IT AS I HAVE TIME
 

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Registered
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19 Posts
This DIY is for the removal and replacement of the V6 MTX of the First gen. This is something that many members are scared to do because of the fact you have to remove the subframe to get it out, but this How-to will walk you thru it the entire process.

NOTE- i somehow lost my camera so this how to will be a joint function work of art from Me and Withersdavid who is so graciously helping out with great pictures that im editing to make a great how-to. Thank you very much bro!!!!


TOOLS NEEDED:

-floor jack (be sure its big enough to raise the car at least 20-24" off of the ground)
-jackstands (minimun of two)
-3/8" drive or 1/2" drive ratchet (it is your choice, i use 3/8" drive)
-13mm socket
-17mm socket
-8mm socket
-10mm socket
-15mm socket
-21mm Deepwell Socket
-23mm socket
-Metric Set of Ratcheting Wrenches (or at least a 12mm, 13mm, 14mm)
-impact gun or breaker bar (impact gun is recommended but not needed)
-small home propane torch (can be found at home depot) (i use mapp gas tourch because it heats faster than propane)
-flat-head prybar
-cross tip screwdriver [/color](phillips head)
-flat-tip screwdriver
-floor transmission jack (recomended but not needed if you have one more person with you to help lifting the tranny out of the car and back in)
-suitable fluid draining container

MATERIALS NEEDED:

-3qts of your choice of gear oil (i recommend Shaeffers)


NOTE- i will add the rest of the tools over the next few days


APPOXIMATE TIME NEEDED:

3-4 hours for removal
3-4 hours for installation



HOW-TO:

1. park the vehicle on level ground and chock the rear wheels

2. disconnect the negative and positive battery terminals (10mm)

3. undo the battery hold-down (10mm) and remove the battery


4. remove three nuts that bolt down the battery tray (10mm) and remove the battery tray

5. remove the respective air intake assembly from vehicle engine bay (bolt sizes may vary between stock and aftermarket air intake systems)


NOTE: this is how it should look now


6. while the car is still on the ground, use the breaker to break the wheel lugs loose on both front wheels. DO NOT REMOVE THEM COMPLETELY!!!!

7. using your floor jack position it under the front jacking point of the car. That your time and make sure your have the jacking point secure in the lifting surface of the jack. if the car slips off the jack you can hurt your self or your car. so take your time.


8. jack up the car as far as possible to give your self plenty of room to work under there. (i recommend a minimum of 20"-24" of ground clearance) and support the car safely with jackstands on both side of the car


9. remove the wheels by removing 5 lugnuts each from both wheels


10. remove the plastic side splash guard from both wheel wells (10mm & crosstip screwdriver)

11. remove the starter by removing two mounting bolts (13mm)

12. remove the plastic undercover that is attached to the subframe (10mm)

13. remove the MTX drain plug and drain into a suitable container

14. remove both shifter linkage connectors from the transmission.


NOTE: the connectors are round one is vertical and one is horizontal and both are held in by a spring clip on each one. just take a flat tip screwdriver pry up on the spring clip and pull both of them out. SEE PICS BELOW:





15. remove the shifter cables from the bracket thats attached to the transmission


NOTE: there are two. i advise leaving the cable attached to the bracket by the plastic clips. they are easy to break. some of you may already notice that the plastic clip(s) are broken. mine has been broken for the longest time, held in by a zip tie. if you slide your hand down the back side of the bracket you will feel 2 bolt heads. (12mm) i recommend taking then off with the bracket shown above by removing the 2 bolts.


16. remove two (23mm) Nuts from the lower control arms on the Driverside


17. flip the two nuts upside down and thread them back onto the ball joints. Thread them in until you are about 2 threads from the studs protruding from the nuts.

18. using your hammer. bluntly, sharply and precisly bang up on each nut until each ball joint pops free.

NOTE: once the ball joint come free, unthread the nuts a few threads at a time and tapping them with the hammer to force the ball joints out of the slots until you can pull them out by hand.

NOTE: the rearmost ball joint is sleeved. so there is a possibility that the sleeve will come out with the ball joint. if it does, just be sure not to loose it. and be sure to reinstall it.

19. Remove the lower shock tower mounting bolt (15mm)




20. Repeat Steps 16-19 on the passenger side of the vehicle

21. go to the driverside and remove two mounting bolts (15mm) from the steering rack


22. remove two mounting bolts (8mm) from the steering gear heat shield.

NOTE - one of them is easily accessible from the pass. side wheel well where the splash guard is removed


NOTE - the other is best accessed going at it from behind and over the rear of the subframe

23. with the steering rack heat shield removed you should now be able to see the 3rd mounting bolt for the steering rack.

NOTE - it may take some working to get the heatshield out. it can be left there if you want. its only removed to give access to the last bolt on the steering rack.

24. using mechanics wire, rope, wire, or something that can support about 30 pounds. tie the steering rack up as close to the headers as possible.

NOTE - i tied the rack right to the headers/exhaust manifold. it wont damage anything as its not that heavy.

25. go back to the driverside and using a screwdriver or punch type tool of your choice. bang out the Axle nut lip that is creased into the notch on the axle.


26. Using your 32mm remove the axle nut from the driverside axle

27. grab the bottom of the spindle and pull it out away from the car and back towards the rear of the car.

NOTE - your axle should start to come out of the hub.

28. pull the axle out of the hub

29. take your pry bar and stick it inbetween the inner axle and transmission housing. be sure to go from the bottom.

30. with a quick steady pry. pop the driverside axle out of the transmission and set it to the side.

NOTE - the following procedure involves removing the subframe. I ADVISE having a buddy with you to do this. or at the minimum a jack to help support the Subframe (it weights an ackward 100-150lbs or so) otherwise, you stand a high chance of hurting yourself.

31. move under the car to the rear of the subframe and remove 2 bolts from each side of the subframe secondary support (15mm)


32. remove the bolt from three clamps that run along the suframe. (10mm)

NOTE - you can follow the lines coming off of the power steering resevoir to trace back to where the bolts are. they hold the hard pressure lines down to the subframe

33. Working together with your buddy. work the Main subframe bolts off of the Subframe studs until you have them all off.






NOTE- THIS ISNT FINISHED YET, I WILL BE UPDATING IT AS I HAVE TIME

Does anyone else have any tips' from this point on?
 

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54 Posts
It is in the middle of another thread, Located here:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mtx-transmission-discussion/230679-step-step-clutch-change-end-post-3.html

welp, youll for starters youll need

large brass hammer
decent socket set with a few differnt sized extensions
mechanics wire
prybar and or large flathead screwdrivers
i had to use a total of 3 floorjacks and 3 jackstands
1 or 2 cases of good beer no watered down shit :goon:
plumbers torch
Bees wax..yes bees wax if you run into a below stated problem
if you got it...impact gun
ft lbs torquewrench
and must have a few favorite four letters words..hehe :drive:

i forgot the torque specs i might update it i remember
6
1.for starters take airbox and battery out

2.crack your lugnuts on front tires loose, jack it up pretty high so you have enough to room under the subframe once its dropped... i maxed my lil jackstands and bar the tires and such so it doesnt roll

3. then drain antifreeze, and tranny oil......

Note: you dont have to drain tranny but you tilt it and its coming out on ya.......

4. get some good plyers and start taking off all the pressure clamps on thermostat housing on the drivers side.... its a plastic housing bout 8 inches or so long with tons of water hosesgoin to it.... tie the hoses back out of the way youlneed as much acess from above as possible makes it easier

5. take the starter out it just to the right of the thermostat housing..(yes on top of the tranny it is) i thought that was weird... Note where the wires go6. pop lil clips on the shift linkage ends and pop them off... then i think 13 mm wrench to take the linkage assembly off the tranny tie it out of the way...

7. then go to front of car and take the four i think 12 or 13 mm bolts out holding the slave cynlinder and slave cylinder heat sheild on and tie that up by where the airbox was

8. then passanger side unbolt the water (antifreeze tank)

9. pop tires off

10. i have to look i think its 31 mm but i know its 1.25 inches ( the axel lock nut) has to come off i used a impact gun cause i could.... so break that loose

11. take clip out of tierod and take that nut all but off, till flush with top of threads and tap the knuckle with brass hammer then smack top of bolthead it will pop out of knuckle with some TLC


12. then take brake caliper off, and tie the to the upper A arm

13. loosen the upper balljoint nut the same manner ass the tie rod nut, and get the brass hammer out

*note brass must be used as it is softer and wont kill the threads

14. repeat this process on both sides

15. take axel nut off and get brass hammer and wack the axel stub where its not threaded while holding the upper control arm that you just seperated from the upper balljoint... axel should popout... then get it out of way of spindel so it can be pulld and pryed out of tranny

* Note i took passanger axel whole way out because it was bad as well.. passanger axel could stay in ,but drivers is best to be removed for clearance

16. now if your on the drivers side get under it and get pry bar and pop halfshaft out of tranny i had to one hand it and pull on shaft itself at same time (it has a pig ring on it) thats what i call them cause their a pig to get in and out youll notice

17.passanger side a bit differnt its a 2 peice driveshaft... you need to unbolt the carrierbearing theres 3 bolts on it you need a few extensions to get in theirget them bolts out(two nuts and 1 bolt) then pop the axel from spindel assemsbly the same way you did the other..... then give the driveshaft a tug this ones easier

18. now for the fun crap yay not really,... start taking all the plastic crap in the wheel wells and under the front off.... in prep to drop the subframe,you have to get that crap off ...

19. now the proper method uses a motor bay bar that holds the motor up but mine was being used on another project so i just used a jack with some wood.... but i did attach the wood to the jack so it wouldnt slip.... i threw that jack under the motors oilpan it looked beefy and it was jack it till it touches, then just a cunt hair more and crawl under car and take lower motormount the whole way out its a pain... then look up on the tranny their is a ground wire held to it with a 8mm or 9mm bolt i forget this was 2 weeks ago,anyways take groundwire off and a connector thats close to it while your undertheir.....




20. now for some real fun.... there are three bolts on the steering rack, two on drivers side and one on passanger side. these babies are tight and hard to get too, but make sure you get them just as tight on reassembly its important dont give up i all but did... once those bolts are out tie the rackup by the tierods so its supported

21. look along subframe and ubbolt all lines from it..

22. you can get your other two jacks in place under the subframe one in front and one in back of enginebay..... then i had to use 13/16 due to loss of proper socket but thats the size for the large nuts holding subframe up.... take the two on each side 16 or so mm bolts out of the triangular mount on the rear side of the subframe, then take those big nuts off two in rear and two in front.....

23.you can now loosen and remove either the top of the strut nuts or the bottom of strut retaining bolt... and lower the subframe


24. then take passsager side upper motor mount off, and then the drivers

25. after the drivers mount is removed you must removed the studs using the doublenut method... it was difficult so i broke out a top secret weapon....bees wax baby... put a lil heat to the tranny housing around the stud and then rubbed the bees waxx to it, let it kool to the touch. its like greasing the threads the studs came right out with ease.....once studs are out your golden


25.unbolt tranny from the motor all but one of the top ones... lower motor and tranny a bit...... replace one subframe jack with a jackstand and use that jack under the tranny and take last bolt out...seperate from motor..... lower down and towards drivers side, you should have tons of room now....




26.unbolt pressureplate..remove clutchdisc...clean everything thats covered in aspestous...dont breath this crap i dont care what they say .....i took a dye grinder with light grit paper and took the glaze off the flywheel as it was NOT grooved from wear.....

27.you should of got a good clutch kit with throwout bearing ( i bought a LUK clutch) its beefy looking ...replace the throwout bearing at this time and lube the spines with provided grease or light amount of aluminum based antiseize, the throwout bearing fork pops off to allow more play to slip it off and replace..examine closly..

28.install new clutchdisc using provided alignment tool.....



29.now just put it alltogether in the reverse manner following steps 28-1 especially the way the motor mounts came out go back in in same order as removed first to last ...you have fun
 

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Registered
Joined
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54 Posts
The whole Enchilada

It is in the middle of another thread, Located here:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mtx-transmission-discussion/230679-step-step-clutch-change-end-post-3.html

welp, youll for starters youll need

large brass hammer
decent socket set with a few differnt sized extensions
mechanics wire
prybar and or large flathead screwdrivers
i had to use a total of 3 floorjacks and 3 jackstands
1 or 2 cases of good beer no watered down shit :goon:
plumbers torch
Bees wax..yes bees wax if you run into a below stated problem
if you got it...impact gun
ft lbs torquewrench
and must have a few favorite four letters words..hehe :drive:

i forgot the torque specs i might update it i remember
6
1.for starters take airbox and battery out

2.crack your lugnuts on front tires loose, jack it up pretty high so you have enough to room under the subframe once its dropped... i maxed my lil jackstands and bar the tires and such so it doesnt roll

3. then drain antifreeze, and tranny oil......

Note: you dont have to drain tranny but you tilt it and its coming out on ya.......

4. get some good plyers and start taking off all the pressure clamps on thermostat housing on the drivers side.... its a plastic housing bout 8 inches or so long with tons of water hosesgoin to it.... tie the hoses back out of the way youlneed as much acess from above as possible makes it easier

5. take the starter out it just to the right of the thermostat housing..(yes on top of the tranny it is) i thought that was weird... Note where the wires go6. pop lil clips on the shift linkage ends and pop them off... then i think 13 mm wrench to take the linkage assembly off the tranny tie it out of the way...

7. then go to front of car and take the four i think 12 or 13 mm bolts out holding the slave cynlinder and slave cylinder heat sheild on and tie that up by where the airbox was

8. then passanger side unbolt the water (antifreeze tank)

9. pop tires off

10. i have to look i think its 31 mm but i know its 1.25 inches ( the axel lock nut) has to come off i used a impact gun cause i could.... so break that loose

11. take clip out of tierod and take that nut all but off, till flush with top of threads and tap the knuckle with brass hammer then smack top of bolthead it will pop out of knuckle with some TLC


12. then take brake caliper off, and tie the to the upper A arm

13. loosen the upper balljoint nut the same manner ass the tie rod nut, and get the brass hammer out

*note brass must be used as it is softer and wont kill the threads

14. repeat this process on both sides

15. take axel nut off and get brass hammer and wack the axel stub where its not threaded while holding the upper control arm that you just seperated from the upper balljoint... axel should popout... then get it out of way of spindel so it can be pulld and pryed out of tranny

* Note i took passanger axel whole way out because it was bad as well.. passanger axel could stay in ,but drivers is best to be removed for clearance

16. now if your on the drivers side get under it and get pry bar and pop halfshaft out of tranny i had to one hand it and pull on shaft itself at same time (it has a pig ring on it) thats what i call them cause their a pig to get in and out youll notice

17.passanger side a bit differnt its a 2 peice driveshaft... you need to unbolt the carrierbearing theres 3 bolts on it you need a few extensions to get in theirget them bolts out(two nuts and 1 bolt) then pop the axel from spindel assemsbly the same way you did the other..... then give the driveshaft a tug this ones easier

18. now for the fun crap yay not really,... start taking all the plastic crap in the wheel wells and under the front off.... in prep to drop the subframe,you have to get that crap off ...

19. now the proper method uses a motor bay bar that holds the motor up but mine was being used on another project so i just used a jack with some wood.... but i did attach the wood to the jack so it wouldnt slip.... i threw that jack under the motors oilpan it looked beefy and it was jack it till it touches, then just a cunt hair more and crawl under car and take lower motormount the whole way out its a pain... then look up on the tranny their is a ground wire held to it with a 8mm or 9mm bolt i forget this was 2 weeks ago,anyways take groundwire off and a connector thats close to it while your undertheir.....




20. now for some real fun.... there are three bolts on the steering rack, two on drivers side and one on passanger side. these babies are tight and hard to get too, but make sure you get them just as tight on reassembly its important dont give up i all but did... once those bolts are out tie the rackup by the tierods so its supported

21. look along subframe and ubbolt all lines from it..

22. you can get your other two jacks in place under the subframe one in front and one in back of enginebay..... then i had to use 13/16 due to loss of proper socket but thats the size for the large nuts holding subframe up.... take the two on each side 16 or so mm bolts out of the triangular mount on the rear side of the subframe, then take those big nuts off two in rear and two in front.....

23.you can now loosen and remove either the top of the strut nuts or the bottom of strut retaining bolt... and lower the subframe


24. then take passsager side upper motor mount off, and then the drivers

25. after the drivers mount is removed you must removed the studs using the doublenut method... it was difficult so i broke out a top secret weapon....bees wax baby... put a lil heat to the tranny housing around the stud and then rubbed the bees waxx to it, let it kool to the touch. its like greasing the threads the studs came right out with ease.....once studs are out your golden


25.unbolt tranny from the motor all but one of the top ones... lower motor and tranny a bit...... replace one subframe jack with a jackstand and use that jack under the tranny and take last bolt out...seperate from motor..... lower down and towards drivers side, you should have tons of room now....




26.unbolt pressureplate..remove clutchdisc...clean everything thats covered in aspestous...dont breath this crap i dont care what they say .....i took a dye grinder with light grit paper and took the glaze off the flywheel as it was NOT grooved from wear.....

27.you should of got a good clutch kit with throwout bearing ( i bought a LUK clutch) its beefy looking ...replace the throwout bearing at this time and lube the spines with provided grease or light amount of aluminum based antiseize, the throwout bearing fork pops off to allow more play to slip it off and replace..examine closly..

28.install new clutchdisc using provided alignment tool.....



29.now just put it alltogether in the reverse manner following steps 28-1 especially the way the motor mounts came out go back in in same order as removed first to last ...you have fun
 
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