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By memory u release locking clip then release "threadlocker" then "agitate/shake" stick laterally for 30 seconds then wait a while then re-engage thread locker element... then re-count exposed threads comparing them to beforehand. Seems to me u want to do all this when it's hot out.... to aid agitation-resulting neutralization.
 

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Here are all of the TSB steps, as screenshots. The actual pdf TSB is too large a file for me to put it up on here. I note that the Mazda6 safety plug and thread locker are identical to the Mazda3's - but they come in from the opposite side. Transaxle and (for all intents and purposes) linkage / shift cables are identical between these two cars.

Please note that my previous post was wrong, in that it FAILED TO indicate that you need to i) have it in 4th gear before you start; ii) agitate the lever laterally 5 times; and then iii) wait 30 seconds before you re-engage the thread-locker (and then re-count threads).
 

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I know the manual gearbox oil is "lifetime" for my 2015 6 6MT, but what interval is best? 60k per the dealer, or just wait until I need a clutch from the stop-and-go driving?
 

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The oil "shears" by being in service. Replace at 50,000 mile intervals. Be sure to use a GL-4 oil, not a GL-4/GL-5 oil. And do use 75W-80. OEM oil is OK. Redline Oil, fitting the foregoing description is better, I think.
 

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Best IMO is to replace at ~10k miles, then every 50 to maybe 75k thereafter, depending on shift feel, usage, and maybe preference.

I agree that Red Line feels better in a Mazda MTX. Their friction modifier package may or may not last beyond 50k. That’s where your usage and gearbox feel come into play. I wish Specialty Formulations was still producing consumer fluids. That stuff was outstanding.
 
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I change mine on ~50k intervals and use Redline MTL. It's easy. Just get the crush washers (aluminum and CANNOT be re-used or they WILL leak) from the stealer for the drain and fill plugs (they're cheap) before you start and remember -- you ALWAYS crack loose the fill plug BEFORE you loosen the drain plug on ANYTHING in a vehicle.
 

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Tickerguy is spot-on re the replacement of aluminum crush washers. The key is to use soft-aluminum... i.e. new ones, and then the required-spec torque is used to tighten them up. No leaks, is typical, with this approach. Further, if you look at the 8mm Allen head engine sump drain plug - if you want to retain this and not change out to a Fumoto valve, you need to again observe this "new crush washer ea. time" methodology... and then with a decent fit of allen key or section of Allen key + torque wrench you NEVER will strip said drainplug head.

People who do not change these end up overtightening the plugs to stem leakage... with bad results on the fasteners, often.
 

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Thanks for the write up on this. Just did mine using the instructions here. Super easy. 🍻

I just jacked up the drivers side, removed the plugs and lowered it back down to drain. I was able to get the drain plug back in and tube into the filler with it on the ground, so I just filled it then while it was level.*
Of course I had to jack it back up to put the shield back on, but it was easy to do without jack stands.

*My car is stock so it was easy to get under it while it wasn't jacked up.
 
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