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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This will be a basic DIY on performing a Manual transmission fluid change on 2014+ models. I take zero responsibility if you screw it up, cut corners, use incorrect fluid etc so follow at own risk.
Tools Required:
1: Jack with jack stands OR Car Ramps
2: Wheel Blocks
3: 10mm socket & ratchet, Optional(Small Power Impact gun to speed up the process)
4: Phillips screw driver or Phillips bit with Impact gun
5: Flat head screw driver, Optional(Plastic fastener removal tool to help remove plastic tabs from undercarriage)
6: 23MM Socket Standard length (Deep socket will have issues removing Fill plug due to cross member clearance)
7: Optional but much easier: 18" Breaker Bar used with 23MM socket
8: Torque Wrench
9: 2 Gaskets for Fill & Drain Plugs Same Part No. 9956-41-800
10: 3 Quarts of Gear Box Fluid (I used Redline SAE 75w80 GL-4)
11: Manual Pump with hose 24" minimum or 24" hose with Funnel
12: Shop rags
13: Drain pan
14: Optional Cold beer

Step 1: Make sure car E-Brake is engaged if using Jack.
Step 2: Jack up car (Everyone has their own particular spot they use), apply jack stands in desired location/Drive car onto car Ramps(2nd set of eyes to guide car up ramps would be recommended, engage E-brake).
Step 3:Using Flat head screwdriver & Plastic fastener removal tool remove all plastic tabs from undercarriage.
Step 4: Using 10mm Socket & ratchet/Power Impact gun & slowly remove all 10mm screws
Step 5: Remove undercarriage & place to the side.

Step 6: Place Drain Pan underneath the Drain Plug
Step 7: Using 23mm socket with breaker bar break loosen the Fill Plug first, ALWAYS verify it can be removed prior to draining transmission.

Step 8: Now using same socket & breaker bar break loose the drain plug & remove, drain transmission.
Step 9: While transmission is draining remove the old gasket off of drain plug & replace with new gasket. (NEVER REUSE GASKET BEING THEY ARE A ONE TIME USE GASKET, REUSING WILL CAUSE SLOW LEAK & WILL REQUIRE TO REDO THIS JOB.)

Step 10: Remove Fill plug & replace Gasket as well.
Step 11: Reinstall Drain plug with new Gasket, Torque down 30-43 ft/lbs
Step 12: Open Hood
Step 13: If using Hose with funnel run hose from top of motor down to the Fill location & insert hose 2-3 inches inside so that hose won't slide out during filling process, If using pump you can pump fluid underneath car.
Step 14: Now slide the same drain pan underneath the fill location to catch the runoff of transmissions fluid when adding.
Step 15: Add fluid to transmission (you will use 2 at minimum, I had to use 1/4 of 3rd bottle being front end of car was jacked up)

Step 16: Continue adding fluid until you see the fluid running out of the fill plug.(You are now Topped off)
Step 17: Remove hose from fill location
Step 18: Reinstall Fill Plug & Torque down 30-43 ft/lbs.
Step 19: Remove Drain Pan
Step 20: Reinstall undercarriage
Step 21: Use car Jack & Jack car up to remove Jack stands then lower car back to ground/If on car ramps remove blocks from rear tires, disengage E-Brake & drive car off ramps.
Job Completed!
 

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Great write-up and Mitch. Thanks for taking the time to do this for the benefit of the rest of us.
What he said. Adding to my 1 stop shop :)
 

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Great writeup with pics!

However, I would highly recommend you remove the fill the plug first. Think about it, if you remove (or even break loose as you've described) the drain plug, but can't remove the fill plug, how will you replace any fluid that drains out?

This probably won't be an issue with cars as young as ours, but a seized up fill plug could be a real issue on an older vehicle. I had this exact problem with a 1994 Ford Ranger 5-speed with 411,000 miles with a rebuilt transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
True
My definition of breaking loose is once you loosen the Fill plug with the breaker bar you should be about to unscrew by hand at this point. If you can freely spin the screw after using the Breaker bar there shouldn't be any reason that the Fill plug won't come out.
 

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True
My definition of breaking loose is once you loosen the Fill plug with the breaker bar you should be about to unscrew by hand at this point. If you can freely spin the screw after using the Breaker bar there shouldn't be any reason that the Fill plug won't come out.
I just reread your directions, is step 7 supposed to be break the "fill" plug first?
 

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Step 7: Using 23mm socket with breaker bar break loose the Drain Plug first always, don't remove just verify it can be removed prior to draining transmission.
@Mitchapalooza85 it looks like it still reads drain plug first... you might want to make a quick edit as I think your intention was to have it be fill plug first (or at least crack it off to verify)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@Mitchapalooza85 it looks like it still reads drain plug first... you might want to make a quick edit as I think your intention was to have it be fill plug first (or at least crack it off to verify)
EDIT has been made, Good eye sir!
 

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Thanks for this, I had a question though: why the extra quarter quart? Isn't the capacity the same even when it's jacked up?
 

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Well, no. If you have the front elevated the fill port (which is on the front) will accept a bit more than it should? Yes. Will this get you in trouble? Probably not. Is it worth filling absolutely level? If you can, and you should try.
 

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Crush washer?

Is this the same crush washer as the oil pan drain plug? I put in the part number in the OP in Amazon and it says:
Prime Ave (10) OEM Oil Drain Plug Washer Gaskets For Mazda Part# 9956-41-400

Also thinking I'll just get two quarts since that's the fill capacity anyway. Has anyone experienced that being too little? Just don't want to spend and have a bunch of 3/4 full oil bottles in my garage.
 

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Thanks for this. Out of curiosity, why did you change it? Was it purely an interval based change or were you having issues?


My 2014 6 Manual is becoming increasingly 'notchy' when changing. My old 2010 6 was silky smooth in comparison.


Ive ordered the redline oil, fingers crossed it will improve things.
 

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Mine was simply on interval, but the MTL fluid did result in a bit less notchiness.

I still notice it if the car is very cold (e.g. below-freezing) in the morning. Mine was never bad but there are people who have said theirs is -- you might want to check the shifter cable-end calibration; the adjustment is pretty simple.
 

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Thanks for replying. Funnily enough I did stumble across something on a mazda 3 forum about the shift cable adjustment, but the person only seemed to make a very small adjustment. I did it all but mine was in a different position to start with than the thread I was following. Is there a process to follow? I have tried searching here but can't seem to find anything. Sorry if its obvious and I'm missing it!

Cheers.
 

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Great that would be much appreciated thankyou.

I've already adjusted it, just wasn't sure which way to adjust it. Always do my own work where I can.
 
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