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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Lowering Spring Installation (2014 Mazda 6):

H&R Sport Spring Installation
H&R Part Number 52634.

I thought I'd post this to help out other fellow Mazda 6 owners interested in installing lowering springs. I'm not a professional mechanic, so please use this as a reference only.

1. Support front of car with jackstands. Remove front tires (Lug Nuts = 21mm)
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2. Remove the clips attached to the front strut assembly [speed sensor, brake line, swaybar end link). The brake line and speed sensor lines are just "clipped" onto the strut
for support. No need to do anything but remove the mounting clips. The sway bar end link is 14mm. This is to remove all interference "connected" to the strut.
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3. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack, then loosen the strut top nut. The easiest way is to have a special socket as shown (17mm) to allow the needed torx (T-40) L-wrench room to prevent the center shaft from spinning as the strut top nut is being loosened. Another way is to use a common open end wrench and torx.
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4. Then slowly lower the jack to drop the strut down. Therefore relieving the spring tension. I then loosened the spindle to strut mounting nuts (23mm). Drop the lower control arm down far enough to remove the strut/spring assembly. You'll have to remove the spindle/strut bolts to remove the strut (bolts are 21mm).
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5. I then removed the top suspension strut bearing by removing the three nuts shown.
Swap the stock spring with the sport spring. Install the lowering spring onto the strut by pressing the removed suspension strut bearing down onto the strut. This will compress the sport spring enough to start threading the strut top nut....no need to fully tighten the strut top nut yet.
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Stock vs H&R sport spring.
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6. Feed the strut back up into the car. Thread the three top nuts onto the strut to hold the strut secure. Re-install the spindle to strut bolts/nuts.
Install the speed sensor clip, brake line clip, and re-install the front sway bar endlink.
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7. Re-install the front tire (Lug Nuts = 21mm). Remove the jackstands to lower the front tires back onto the ground. Go back and tighten the strut top nut at this time.
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Here are before and after on the front suspension:
Before: Stock
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After: H&R Sport Springs
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8. Now for the rear suspension.
I jacked up one side at a time. Used a jack stand to support the car at the rear jack point (just ahead of the rear tire).
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Place the floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the lower control arm up ~ 1 inch. This will relieve an tension on the rear sway bar end link to allow the end link to be removed (nut is 14mm).
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Next remove the lower control arm to spindle bolt (17mm).
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Next, slowly lower the lower control arm down with the floor jack. This will relieve the rear spring tension and allow the rear spring to be removed.


Stock vs H&R Sport Spring (Rear)
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Install the sport spring. Be mindful to align the spring with the rubber mount in the lower control arm (top and bottom both have rubber mounts).
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Slowly jack up the lower control arm to compress the sport spring (only need to go about 1 inch). Align and install the end link to lower control arm nut (14mm).
Then align and install the lower control arm to spindle nut bolt (17mm).
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Before: Stock Springs (Rear)
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Before: Stock springs:
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After: H&R Sport Springs:
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The springs are a very cost effective mod. Bought mine from tirerack.com

The ride is still smooth and comfortable. The steering response is improved with a more direct initial turn in. The car does not dip as before on quick steering inputs.

It just turns up the "Zoom Zoom" a bit pertaining to the handeling characteristics. Perfect.
 

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interesting...never seen anyone do it like that without using a spring compressor to get the springs off/on the struts. I've always removed the whole strut/spring assembly then remove/replace spring with compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How is the ride?
The ride is still smooth and comfortable. The steering response is improved with a more direct initial turn in. The car does not dip as before on quick steering inputs.

It just turns up the "Zoom Zoom" a bit pertaining to the handeling characteristics. Perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Same here.
interesting...never seen anyone do it like that without using a spring compressor to get the springs off/on the struts. I've always removed the whole strut/spring assembly then remove/replace spring with compressor.
Yes, using a spring compressor is how I've normally done it as well. In fact I did that on one of the two front struts. It's much quicker to use the method described in the original post. Just lower the jack slowly, with the three top strut nuts in place (center nut removed), also keep the spindle to strut bolts in place until the spring tension is released to keep the strut secure.
 

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Just curious - is that photo of the car 'stock' your car, or just for reference. I ask because thats the dealership near me, but your location says Texas. Just wondering if you're local.
 

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That is cool that there is enough clearance with the LCA on the front to get the strut out. On a LOT of cars that doesn't work; you have to either pull alignment-impacting parts of the front end apart (which instantly sends you to the alignment shop) or figure out how to fit spring compressors in the wheel well and strut tower, which can get kind of interesting.

I go for the latter if I have to yank alignment-impacting things off otherwise, but sometimes you have no choice as there's simply no clearance to get the compressors in there inverted (with jam nuts on the other end to compress them.)

I don't think I'm willing to give up the inch and a half or so of ground clearance as there are just too many parking blocks and such around here that would then present a real risk of hanging up (and don't at present), but when it comes time to do struts on this car that will be VERY useful information to have up front!

BTW are the strut-to-knuckle mounting bolts one-time use? Anyone have the formal torque spec for them (if it's "X torque + 90 degrees" or something similar they are torque-to-yield and must be replaced.) The top ones usually are not but the mounting bolts to the steering knuckle are on most cars. I am fastidious about proper torque on suspension and engine fasteners and they're not very expensive if on the "must-replace" list. We might want to start collecting torque specs into a sticky thread for these cars; it'll help a lot of people out over time.
 
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