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This How-To is for everyone wishing to get more light in their trunk. The factory bulb provides next to no light whatsoever at night, so I designed this How-To for everyone who hates it as much as I did. This will add some style to your trunk and also be very practical. Because I used CCFL's (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights), no heat is given, only great light output.

This is what was included in the kit i purchased from VibeLights.com. I chose to order 2 12" CCFL's in White. With standard shipping they arrived at my house in less than a week, in perfect condition.

Please read all instructions to make sure you fully understand the directions. If the inverter is hooked up incorrectly it will be damaged and you will need to purchase a new set (if you do, you might as well order a different color so you can change it if you get bored later on down the line).

This mod is for the sedan only, though similar step may be used for the hatchback and wagon.
This mod requires removal of the rear deck.
I performed this mod on an 05 Mazda6 S, the 06+ may have different colored wires. If someone with an 06+ attempts this mod, please clarify.

Upon successful completion of this mod, the CCFL will turn on and off automatically when the trunk is opened and closed.



EDIT:
Before doing this mod, remove the Room Fuse from the interior fuse panel to avoid blowing it and/or getting shocked.


Step 1:
Although it says they are made for automotive use, they still had a PC male-connector on the end of the power inverter. The first step is to cut off that connector as close to that connector as possible, then strip the wires about half an inch and twist the wires (separately) so they make a good connection when connected to the trunk wires.
***Make sure you only cut off the PC connector on the RED/BLACK wires; the other connectors are for the CCFL tubes and should remain in tact.***

Step 2:
The rear deck must be removed for this modification. To remove the rear deck, fold down the rear seats and you will find several clips similar to the ones found on the trunk lid. Simply pull on the center of the clips and it will pop out, then pull from around the outside and the clip will come out. Be careful not to lose any clips. Don't forget the clips behind the sides of the seats.

This is behind the Side of the seat, one clip is beneath the seat-belt cut-out.


Two more are near the center of the deck.


And the rest are to the right of those.


Step 3:
After the rear deck has been removed, look inside the trunk, there will be a little white bulb cover on the right side, it requires a little force to get off (I used a screwdriver to pry it off, it just pops out). Then there is a bulb beneath it. Remove the bulb. I just used my hand, it pops out very easliy so you don't have to worry about burning your fingertips.

The bulb cover is located in the center where the Dynamat is no applied. This is what it will look like with the bulb cover and bulb removed.


From inside the cabin, the rear deck should look like this. The trunk light connector is just to the left of the factory Bose subwoofer (which I also removed while i had the rear deck off).


Here is a close up of the trunk light connector.


Step 4:
You will need to pop out the connector shown in the above picture, this is where you will get the power from to power the CCFL's. Also, if there is any electrical tape on the stock wiring, remove it so that you can have more leverage when you splice the wires together.

Step 5:
The kit came with mounting hardware (including double-sided tape), but I used 3M double-sided tape to attach the power inverter to the bottom of the rear deck (Metal). I attached it to the bottom because I wanted to play it safe and be sure the rear deck would fit correctly when reinstalled. The inverter will not fit perfectly on the bottom of the rear deck so make sure to completely cover the bottom of the inverter with the tape.



I chose to route the power wires through the bottom (rectangular) opening where the factory bulb cover fit so they will not be squished when the inverter is attached.
***Make sure to attach the inverter in the same orientation as shown above so you will have enough room to run the wires.***



Step 6:
***This step must be done done from inside the cabin. For Step 6 make sure the TRUNK LID IS CLOSED!***

Mazda decided to use a brown coloration for the wires that power the trunk courtesy light. You must pay attention to detail in this step, if the inverter is wired incorrectly, it will be damaged and a new inverter/kit will have to be purchased to finish the mod.

The color of the wires found in your car may differ from the ones pictured in this mod. The factory wire with the red stripe will get connected to the red wire found on the CCFL's

The wires have the following charges:
Mazda Factory Wiring
Positive = RED/BROWN Wire
Negative = BROWN Wire

CCFL Wiring
Positive = RED Wire
Negative = BLACK Wire

Remove the cut off the factory connector for the stock bulb. Splice both sides of the wire about half an inch.


Step 7:
Connect the RED/BROWN Wire of the factory wiring to the RED Wire on the CCFL's.
Connect the BROWN Wire of the factory wiring to the BLACK Wire of the CCFL's.


Tape the wires up (Seperately) and test out the new CCFL's. Make sure to have the CCFL tubes plugged into the connectors on the inverter before proceeding to Step 8. Never give power to the inverter without the CCFL tubes plugged into it.

Step 8:
Open the trunk from the outside and make sure the CCFL's are working properly. Then close the trunk slightly so that no light can enter the trunk and you can clearly see the CCFL's from inside the cabin (with the seats down).

With the trunk open.


With the trunk closed


Step 9:
Apply the same 3M double-sided tape to the bases of the CCFL's, Making sure to apply to the same side of the base.



Step 10:
Attach the CCFL tubes to the bottom of the rear deck. Try to position them at the same angle and adjacent locations so it looks like a clean install.







Step 11:
Zip-tie all the wires for a clean install, and to keep them from dangling in the trunk compartment. After i zip-tied the wires I also used some electrical tape to attach them to the deck.



Step 12:
Re-attach the rear deck, fold up the rear seats, and clean up the mess. You're Done!

Here are some pix of the install at night (bad cell phone camera).









Mods...Sticky?
 

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when i put the wires on incorrectly it'll just blink for a bit. they still work fine.
but i also have an on/off switch and keep it off unless i need it.

good right up. i guess i'll take the panel off and clean up mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh, well the instructions that came with the kit said it would be damaged if it was hooked up incorrectly. I wanna give advice for the correct way. Thanks for the comment though Orange.
 

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nice write up.
 

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Nothing I don't think.

Us hatch owners would just need to find the wiring for the hatch light thats on the left side and splice into that i would assume?
 

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Nothing I don't think.

Us hatch owners would just need to find the wiring for the hatch light thats on the left side and splice into that i would assume?[/b]
should be something like that, just pull out that lil switch or get behind it.

Excelent write up Drizz-Oh, looks great
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not sure how it would work on the hatch, but it should be similar. Wherever the factory bulb is located, you would just need to tap into those wires, though I'm not sure how to get to them.
 

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Thanks for the write-up, Drizz-OH. Turns out on the 07, there are 3 or 4 clips in the back of the rear deck, holding it in place. I broke one of them, but quickly realized that breaking them all wouldn't be practical or a good thing to do (since a couple of them are wedged in pretty well between some metal plates). I just removed the 3rd brake light from inside the cabin and traced the trunk light bulb wires to that location and spliced them there. It was a little hard since that's a pretty small area to work in, and annoying because I basically took my rear seats apart to try and get that rear deck off, but hey, no pain, no gain, right? I got it all working in the end, so it's all good.

I got the blue cathodes from Oznium, and they seem to be pretty good. Not as bright as the whites that you got, but way better than the stock bulb.

Anyway, thanks again, and for those who are wondering, if you buy from Oznium, the transformers are equipped with polarity protection, so you don't have to worry about switching the polarities. They're also a bit cheaper from Oznium, too.
 

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Great write up man. You saved me a bit of looking to plan this future mod out. The only thing I would add to it would be to disconnect the battery when ever working on electronics in the car.
 

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Yeah, you should probably disconnect the battery, but it's not a big deal. The wires are not hot whenever the trunk is closed. I touched them with my bare hands and nothing happened, so it's all good.
 

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Just an update to this guys.

The interior lights including the truck work off a switching ground. Instead of pulling the rear deck apart, you can supply any fulltime 12V power to the red wire of your CCFL set up and the switching ground brown wire for the trunk lid runs behind the driver side trunk panel. Just tap your ground (black) from the CCFL into that wire. Much easier than pulling the deck apart and you can leave the trunk light intact if you pull the CCFL's out. I just did mine today this way while I was installing my sub enclosure. I used one of the unused plugs on my cap for 12V source. Easy to do and a lot less work than digging into the back deck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey guys I changed my setup. I would recommend LED strips over Cathodes as they look better, they're more reliable, stronger, and easier to install.

Pic of new setup. 28" Red LED strip from Oznium.com

 
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