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I would have never attempted this if it weren't for this forum. Thanks guys for some direction. It took me 3 3/4 hours, but it got done. :confused:

I also took advantage of the IM taken off, and was able to cut some of the EGR - as posted elsewhere on this forum. Took 5 minutes:rolleyes:

Lastly, I drained as much power steering fluid as I could and kept filling and removing fluid until it was a good color. Took 1/2 hour.

I was getting everything back together and remembered I had forgotten to tighten down the screws that hold the coils on the back 3 spark plugs. Nice. They were finger tight, but I couldn't live with that, so I had to take the IM back off to reach. I now have good practice, so I guess in 3 or 4 years, I will be doing it again:rolleyes:

I took some pics and you can see how fouled my EGR is. It was very sticky / gummed up. Is that caused by 10% ethanol gas?

I took several microscope pics of the iridium plugs tips. You can see they sure did round after that long, but the gaps measured in spec. at .057:

I replaced the motorcraft stock plugs with NGK iridium - TR55IX - 7164's. They came gapped at .056 to .057, but I pushed them down to .052. Everything seems back to normal. I have kept track of every drop of gas that goes into my 6, so I am hoping this work helps out by 1 or 2 miles per gallon.

Lastly, I typically drive 70 to 80 miles per day (85 to 95 mph) and usually get 338 miles on 16.1 gallons (21 mpg). When I use 93 octane, I always get 365 miles at 16.1 gallons (22.6 mpg). How does that compare to your 6?


sent from my Galaxy S4
 

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Thank You

If I could buy each of you a beer that has contributed to this thread, I would.. The tips and videos made this a somewhat easy procedure for me too, and replacing the coils and plugs solved my shuddering problem that I originally thought to be a transmission problem.

For those budget minded people looking to change their coils, I paid $38 for a set of 6 coils. Search eBay Ignition Coil 6 Pack for Ford MERCURY MAZDA Heavy Duty 3.0L DG513 2M2Z-12029-AC. The seller I bought from was dependableautoparts. You can see in the eBay ad they cut the coil in half to show that it was actually a good copper coil. When I compare the stock units side by side, I can't see a bit of difference, even in the casings. So.. I call this a steal of a deal and they are working great.

For those that also break the @#%#%#ing coolant T-Fitting below the throttle body (I was doing mine in the dark, I wasn't happy). There is now aftermarket OEM fit alternatives for those that want to retain the stock non-bypass configuration. At O'Reilly or Autozone use use Dorman part number Part # 902-003. Alternately for those that prefer NAPA, you can order Part Number: NOE 6006009 - they are identical and just re-branded. Again, they are identical to stock and work like a charm for half of the price.

Thanks again so much for the contributions here.. You guys have saved me a ton of money and gave me a bit more confidence to work on my own cars!\

- Mike
 

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Couple quick questions I bought new coils and boots... the little black piece of metal in the stock springs does that need to transfer over into the new spring? And for some reason I can not get the 8 millimeter screws to completely tighten on the plug it almost seems like the whole threads on the inside are stripped.. is there any way that I can fix this so that the screws are nice and firm uploadfromtaptalk1449234537798.jpg

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Thank you for the Original Post.
I had previously had a PO306, and of course replaced the ignition coil with no issue.
I was running a PO300 and decided to just replace all the sparks and ignition coils.

Without this post, I think this would have been very daunting.

All went well, the descriptions were spot on and got me through it.

I had an issue after assembly though. Car turned over with no issue sounded good for about 30 seconds, then started sputtering and gasping. Even sounded like some knocking/pinging in the engine. Then it sputtered off.

Turned it over again and it kept knocking, and acting like it was missing or starving for gas.
Concerned I forgot to reconnect something I went to look over the steps again and check connections. All looked good. I called my family gear head (father in law. great guy). and ran over what I did, and what it was doing. He said from my descriptions sounded like it was starving for gas. To check fuel pressure on the schrader valve for the fuel injection.
Well two things. I could not find the schrader valve for the life of me. Everything I read said it was just below the throttle body.
During my google search to find it I searched for my issue as well. Numerous posts said to reset the ECM by taking the neg off the battery for over 10 min. I had that off during my repair, so figured it should of already reset, but removed it again, while looking for the valve some more.
I never did find the valve, even had 3 other people look who were over at the house.
I reconnected the battery, and turned it over. It was sputtering etc again, but didn't shut itself off. about 45 seconds later, it started to even out and purr like the kitten it is. All is good.

Summary? If you get done, and start the engine but it dont like it so much. If it wont stay running, reset the ECM again (10 min with the neg battery cable off).

Thanks again and good luck to others.

OH, anyone have a picture of exactly where that Schrader Valve is on the 2006?
 

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I swapped out my spark plugs today at 50k miles. The maintenance schedule calls for new plugs at 75k miles, but it also calls for things like never changing the transmission fluid. I was also bored needed something to do. I decided to go with the Autolite XP104 plugs. Overall, the process wasn't too bad, but it is definitely time consuming. It takes a little studying to figure out how the wiring harness mounts come off the Intake Manifold and this is by far the part that will cause the most problems for anyone. Enjoy:

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2. Hoses - There are 4 hoses total that need disconnected. 3 in the back of the IM, and 1 hidden under the throttle body. Use vice grips to squeeze, unclamp, and hold the hose clamps. I didn't see the hidden one until it came time to remove the IM, this may be when you need to remove it too. The hoses push right off with minimal effort.

3. Wiring Harnesses - Ensure your battery is disconnected. Disconnect the plug on the left, and the plug on the right. On the left, use a knife to carefully cut (or crumble) the tape which holds the harness to a post on the IM. On the right, use a knife (with new blade) to carefully score a notch around the mounting tab of the black plastic, 'box-like wire guide'. Keep scoring it until this wire-guide box separates from IM. Use a flat tip screwdriver to lift the white tab and slide each harness off the IM. Don't be afraid to move these harnesses around a bit.

4. Accordian/CAI - Disconnect the MAF harness. Remove the accordian, or angled hose for the intake. Push intake to the right, into its 'hole' a bit.

5. EGR - Remove the 3, 8mm bolts from the EGR bracket. You will probably need a 8mm box wrench for the one without clearance in the back. Do not drop bolts into the engine bay.

6. Throttle Body - Lift the red tab of the harness, and disconnect. Remove (or break) the harness mount from the IM. Start with either of the bottom bolts, and remove the 4, 10mm bolts from the TB. Do not drop bolts or washers into the engine bay. It is not necessary to disconnect the coolant hose from the TB, just push the TB off to the right.

7. Intake Manifold - These bolts stay locked in the IM, they do not come out or fall out. Use an 8mm socket with extension to completely loosen all 8 bolts. Observe how easy they feel when they break inital torque. Do not use a screwdriver with an 8mm nut driver tip. Once all 8 bolts are loosened, lift up on the IM. Move the right wire-guide box out of the way, and push the EGR off to the right to clear its tube out of the IM. Keep doing this while lifting and moving the IM off to the left, until it comes out altogther. Lay it on the ground, upside down ensuring the gaskets do not become dirty. Get an old, but clean towl, and lay it over the intake ports on the engine block...this will help avoid any sudden disasters. Latch the hood and take a break.

8. Spark Plug Removal - Open and close 1 at a time, and start with the fronts to get a general feel. Remove the 8mm bolt. Carefully pull on the plug-top, remove, and let hang. Try not to let the end touch anything dirty. Use a 1/2" drive socket, with 3/8" adapter, an extension of your choice, and the 5/8" spark plug socket. Be very careful, your block is aluminum. Insert the extension into the tube and lock the spark-plug socket onto the spark plug. Put your left hand over the joint of the extension/socket, and right hand on the handle. Slowly turn the socket CCW, as soon as you feel the initial torque break, stop, then slowly continue turning until you feel the spark plug become free of the engine. Withdraw the old spark plug. Keep track of which spark plug was in which cylinder, to observe any wear problems. All 6 of mine were lightly coated with white-ish carbon, which is normal wear. The tip was shorter though.

9. Spark Plug Installation - Observe that the set gap of the new spark plug is .044 with a gauge tool. Insert a new spark plug into the spark plug socket. Put a dab of anti-seize grease on the threadings, and spread it with a paper towl and your fingers. Insert the complete socket extension with spark plug into the hole, DEAD ON STRAIGHT. SLOWLY turn the the socket CW, ensuring its dead straight to avoid cross-threading. If it cross threads, the engine is done. The new spark plug should turn so smoothly that it feels like a hot knife through butter. When you feel it beginning to torque, stop. Carefully turn the the socket in 1/16th of a turn increments until it feels sufficiently snug. If you overtorque it, the spark plug may break, deep down in that hole...and your day will be ruined. Insert the plug top, and push it until it seats with the new spark plug. Replace the 8mm bolt. Repeat 8 and 9 for the remaining cylinders.

10. Replace the Intake Manifold - Replace the IM by inserting the EGR tube into the IM. Carefully work the IM into place by lifting on its locked bolts, moving the wiring harnesses around. Connect the hidden hose first. Finger tighten the 8mm bolts on the ends, and ensure the IM is lined up. The machined bolt hole tabs on the IM should match up perfectly with the machining of the block. Tighten down the 8mm bolts in a staggering pattern. Remember how they felt when they came loose, these do not need cranked down.

11. Replace the 3 back Hoses and Wiring Harnesses. Replace the left and right harnesses to the white tabs of the IM, and reconnect.

12. Replace EGR - Replace the 8mm bolts to the EGR bracket.

13. Replace TB - Position the TB against the IM. Replace the top 10mm bolts to the TB with fingers, then replace the bottom 10mm bolts. Tighten with 10mm deep socket. Reconnect the TB wire harness, then push the red tab down.

14. Replace accordian/CAI. Reconnect the MAF harness.

15. Check over all your hoses, and wiring harnesses. Make sure everything is re-connected. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

16. Wash your hands, start the car, and observe for any weird behavior or noise. If it starts, then immediately stalls, check your un-connected MAF. WAIT...disconnect the negative battery terminal first, reconnect the MAF, then reconnect the negative battery terminal. I almost plugged in the MAF while still powered, but I caught myself. Take it for a test drive in a safe, known area. :drive: It should feel perfectly fine. You just saved yourself a couple hundred bucks.


I haven't noticed any particular differences with the Autolite XP104, although the engine seems to have a more aggressive and perkier startup. I haven't been able to hammer on the throttle yet either though.
I have a Mazda 6 2008 V6 3.0L with 76k miles My garage suggested a transmission fluid flush. IS it recommended as according to web and many other people im getting mixed messages as some would say yes some others not.

please help !!!
 

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anti-seize

Just a suggestion:
Double check your manufacturer recommendation, first, before using anti-seize on spark plugs. I spoke with the guys at NGK and they actually recommended NOT using anti-seize on their Iridium IX plugs because of the special coating. They said it might cause you to over-torque the plugs.


9. Put a dab of anti-seize grease on the threadings, and spread it with a paper towl and your fingers.
 

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OK guys...I put together some pictures and placed them in with the text description that was first written by mbrogz3000. I made it a PDF file but it looks like it is going to be too big to upload. I see the max size is 250K and this is like 650K. So, for right now until I can make it into a postable file or shrink the file size, you can access the file at the following address.

4shared - free file sharing and storage

Click on the actual file name to download it.


Or, if you click the little globe and arrow next to the file, it will come to a second page. Scroll down to where it says "download file" under the green box that says "No virus found". Click on "Download File."
* 4shared link is now invalid.
 

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OK guys...I put together some pictures and placed them in with the text description that was first written by mbrogz3000. I made it a PDF file but it looks like it is going to be too big to upload. I see the max size is 250K and this is like 650K. So, for right now until I can make it into a postable file or shrink the file size, you can access the file at the following address.

4shared - free file sharing and storage

Click on the actual file name to download it.


Or, if you click the little globe and arrow next to the file, it will come to a second page. Scroll down to where it says "download file" under the green box that says "No virus found". Click on "Download File."
Would you be able to send me the link as well? Please?
 

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Would you be able to send me the link as well? Please?
Hey there! Seeing as that post you're quoting was made back in 2008, I doubt they're even still around. Are you looking for the How-To for replacing your plugs on the 3.0L? There's a handful of videos on youtube that go through the process.

If you prefer pictures, I did a How-To for the 3rd generation that you can find here: DIY: 3rd Gen Spark Plug Replacment - Note: That's not the same car that you're working on (obviously) but the process is essentially the exact same - just make sure you get parts for your car, not the ones listed in my thread. :)
 
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