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There are only 2 reasons you'd need a relay:

1. If you want the white to turn off when you pull up the hand brake lever. (which you said you didn't want.)
2. If you want the white to turn off when the headlights are on. I recommend this, but it's really up to you.

If you choose neither 1 or 2 above then you really just need to wire the white lead to any ignition source in the fuse box in the engine compartment using a tap-a-fuse. You do not have to use the turn signal ground - any ground will do. My fuse box had a blank position (see pictures in first post) that happened to provide ignition power (plus 90 seconds of power after ignition off) which worked well for me, but you could probably put the tap-a-fuse on the radio/audio fuse if you don't have that.
one more question lol... i have the right switchback installed just for the turn signal right now, however, the second bulb wont turn on when in the socket..but it will turn on when hooked up to a 12v battery. any ideas of what could be the problem with this?
 

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one more question lol... i have the right switchback installed just for the turn signal right now, however, the second bulb wont turn on when in the socket..but it will turn on when hooked up to a 12v battery. any ideas of what could be the problem with this?
That's because we have single filament sockets, but the bulbs are dual filament. The first post shows how I modified my sockets and a later post from @mmceorange shows how he did his.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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one more question lol... i have the right switchback installed just for the turn signal right now, however, the second bulb wont turn on when in the socket..but it will turn on when hooked up to a 12v battery. any ideas of what could be the problem with this?
Because the socket's wiring has the wrong polarity. You'll need to somehow swap the + and - to get the polarized LED to work. There are a few ways of doing this, but swapping the wires going to the headlight will not work (and will probably blow a fuse or two). Depending on your abilities, you can do what I did and swap the two contacts on either side of the hole in the headlight housing where the long grey blinker bulb holder goes into.



You'll have to flatten the metal alignment tabs (or just break them off if you're confident) in order for them to snap onto the opposite side, but that's it. It's quite simple, transparent, and still works with regular bulbs.

----------------------= EDIT =----------------------​

I just realized you might be talking about the other "filament" in the same bulb, in which case the reply above mine (which I just saw) is correct.
 

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Because the socket's wiring has the wrong polarity. You'll need to somehow swap the + and - to get the polarized LED to work. There are a few ways of doing this, but swapping the wires going to the headlight will not work (and will probably blow a fuse or two). Depending on your abilities, you can do what I did and swap the two contacts on either side of the hole in the headlight housing where the long grey blinker bulb holder goes into.



You'll have to flatten the metal alignment tabs (or just break them off if you're confident) in order for them to snap onto the opposite side, but that's it. It's quite simple, transparent, and still works with regular bulbs.

----------------------= EDIT =----------------------​

I just realized you might be talking about the other "filament" in the same bulb, in which case the reply above mine (which I just saw) is correct.
your post was actually EXACTLY what i was looking for! but both posts will help for this project:)
 

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Because the socket's wiring has the wrong polarity. You'll need to somehow swap the + and - to get the polarized LED to work. There are a few ways of doing this, but swapping the wires going to the headlight will not work (and will probably blow a fuse or two). Depending on your abilities, you can do what I did and swap the two contacts on either side of the hole in the headlight housing where the long grey blinker bulb holder goes into.



You'll have to flatten the metal alignment tabs (or just break them off if you're confident) in order for them to snap onto the opposite side, but that's it. It's quite simple, transparent, and still works with regular bulbs.

----------------------= EDIT =----------------------​

I just realized you might be talking about the other "filament" in the same bulb, in which case the reply above mine (which I just saw) is correct.
is this right?
 

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is this right?
A quiccer way to do it without having to swap connection points on the actual headlight assembly is to just break the tabs on the signal stop and flip the stalk upside down.

Worked like a charm and flawlessly for me since Ive done this mod. No issues of it coming out and Oahu,Hawaii has some really bad roads.

Then again,if you feel better swapping points on the headlights then go for it,I contemplated it,but figured Id be better off breaking the tabs if I ever decided to sell my 6.

Couple questions though,are you trying to make a drl switchbacc or are you just trying to get the led signal to light up? Technically speaking,flipping the polarity will get your turn signal to work,but to make it an actual "switchbacc" you would need to wire up a power source to a relay and an extra connection on the signal stalk for the white side of the led to work.

Switching the pins on the assembly will only allow the turn signal part of the switchbacc to function only as a signal.
 

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A quiccer way to do it without having to swap connection points on the actual headlight assembly is to just break the tabs on the signal stop and flip the stalk upside down.

Worked like a charm and flawlessly for me since Ive done this mod. No issues of it coming out and Oahu,Hawaii has some really bad roads.

Then again,if you feel better swapping points on the headlights then go for it,I contemplated it,but figured Id be better off breaking the tabs if I ever decided to sell my 6.

Couple questions though,are you trying to make a drl switchbacc or are you just trying to get the led signal to light up? Technically speaking,flipping the polarity will get your turn signal to work,but to make it an actual "switchbacc" you would need to wire up a power source to a relay and an extra connection on the signal stalk for the white side of the led to work.

Switching the pins on the assembly will only allow the turn signal part of the switchbacc to function only as a signal.
That sounds like a MUCH easier way of doing it. Thanks.
Right now I'm just gunna use em as signals until I have time to hook them up as drls as well
 

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That sounds like a MUCH easier way of doing it. Thanks.
Right now I'm just gunna use em as signals until I have time to hook them up as drls as well
Thats what I said when I believe Mralexsays suggested that. Cant remember if it was in his how to or in a separate post.

Essentially,theres 3 tabs that poke outwards on the stalk that you want to break off so that it can be flipped upside down and still be able to be wedged bacc in. If you pull the stalk out,you'll notice that theres like a triangle type point,that if installed correctly from factory will point down. After the tabs are broken the stalk will be installed with the triangular point facing up to reverse the polarity for the leds to work.

Hopefully you'll get around to wiring up the drl's or else you'd just have some very expensive turn signals.lol.

I,myslef,have been thru maybe 3 pairs of switchbaccs before finding a pair that closely matched the color of my parking/city lights. Each set before I believe only got used for like a couple weeks max before I found the ones Ive been running now.

1st set was some high power type 1 samsung led switchbaccs.Very frkn bright but the white didnt match my parking lights. 2nd set was a pair of superbrightleds 5k type 2s that also didnt match.3rd set was a pair of superbrightleds 6k type 1 that,unfortunately,did not match either.The current set Im running now are from ebay that I was luccy to find. It was an auction for 2 pairs of type 2 switchbacc COB leds with projector lens and well,it was as close a match I could find and was happy with. Matches my parking lights and custom made switchbacc sidemarkers almost perfectly.

So now I have 4 pairs of switchbaccs sitting in my trunk,in a ziploc bag,in a tool poccet of a tool bag for whatevers.lol.
 

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Thats what I said when I believe Mralexsays suggested that. Cant remember if it was in his how to or in a separate post.

Essentially,theres 3 tabs that poke outwards on the stalk that you want to break off so that it can be flipped upside down and still be able to be wedged bacc in. If you pull the stalk out,you'll notice that theres like a triangle type point,that if installed correctly from factory will point down. After the tabs are broken the stalk will be installed with the triangular point facing up to reverse the polarity for the leds to work.

Hopefully you'll get around to wiring up the drl's or else you'd just have some very expensive turn signals.lol.

I,myslef,have been thru maybe 3 pairs of switchbaccs before finding a pair that closely matched the color of my parking/city lights. Each set before I believe only got used for like a couple weeks max before I found the ones Ive been running now.

1st set was some high power type 1 samsung led switchbaccs.Very frkn bright but the white didnt match my parking lights. 2nd set was a pair of superbrightleds 5k type 2s that also didnt match.3rd set was a pair of superbrightleds 6k type 1 that,unfortunately,did not match either.The current set Im running now are from ebay that I was luccy to find. It was an auction for 2 pairs of type 2 switchbacc COB leds with projector lens and well,it was as close a match I could find and was happy with. Matches my parking lights and custom made switchbacc sidemarkers almost perfectly.

So now I have 4 pairs of switchbaccs sitting in my trunk,in a ziploc bag,in a tool poccet of a tool bag for whatevers.lol.
haha. well at least u don't really hafta worry about running out of em.lol
thanks for all the help man, definitely appreciate it.
so just to get the drl part of it right, im supposed to: hook up a paper clip so that the white led terminal is sitting on it, then hook up a wire to the paper clip for power, to an add-a-fuse to turn on with ignition? sound somewhat right?lol
 

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haha. well at least u don't really hafta worry about running out of em.lol
thanks for all the help man, definitely appreciate it.
so just to get the drl part of it right, im supposed to: hook up a paper clip so that the white led terminal is sitting on it, then hook up a wire to the paper clip for power, to an add-a-fuse to turn on with ignition? sound somewhat right?lol
Thats one way of doing it,that was Oranges' way of doing things,but unfortunately for me,I dont have the patience to do that type of thing.lol.

I just went Alexs' route and bought a pair of dual contact 1157 bayonets from CustomLED.com and pretty much jus ripped and cut the oem contacts off,bored the center out to fit the new bayonet and wired it from there. The bayonets from customLED have 3 pigtails. Red I hooked to the power contact on the stalk and the ground to the ground contact point. The left over white wire is what will power the white side of the switchbacc.

So from the add-a-fuse line,which I tapped into the engine bar fuse,you run to points 86 and 30. 85 is your ground which would be run to your handbrake wire to be triggered when the handbrake is released. This is where a 5 pin relay with a NO/NC is required. The power wire for the white side of the switchbacc will be wired to 87a to turn on when the handbrake is released.

This is how I have mine setup buy also wired in with a 2nd relay to turn off when the headlights turn on. All is explained in MrAlexSays' how to.

Any more questions feel free to hmu thru here or PM. Happy to help a fellow 6er.
 

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Thats one way of doing it,that was Oranges' way of doing things,but unfortunately for me,I dont have the patience to do that type of thing.lol.

I just went Alexs' route and bought a pair of dual contact 1157 bayonets from CustomLED.com and pretty much jus ripped and cut the oem contacts off,bored the center out to fit the new bayonet and wired it from there. The bayonets from customLED have 3 pigtails. Red I hooked to the power contact on the stalk and the ground to the ground contact point. The left over white wire is what will power the white side of the switchbacc.

So from the add-a-fuse line,which I tapped into the engine bar fuse,you run to points 86 and 30. 85 is your ground which would be run to your handbrake wire to be triggered when the handbrake is released. This is where a 5 pin relay with a NO/NC is required. The power wire for the white side of the switchbacc will be wired to 87a to turn on when the handbrake is released.

This is how I have mine setup buy also wired in with a 2nd relay to turn off when the headlights turn on. All is explained in MrAlexSays' how to.

Any more questions feel free to hmu thru here or PM. Happy to help a fellow 6er.
could u maybe add some pics of your set up so the gears in my brain start moving? lol
 

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just one question then i'm all set (see pic)
I had cut a hole in the plastic to insert a bend in the paper clip to hold it in place. The first one I made, I glued it all down because I wasn't sure how strong it would be. Turns out that wasn't necessary, as you can see in my second version




So, inside that hole is just a U-shaped bend in the paper clip, as a sort of 'peg'. Granted, once installed they don't move much, but they are still holding quite strong :)

The more tricky part was making a 3rd contact inside the headlight to make it work, but until then I just had a wire wrapped around the loop and strung back into the headlight and connected to the 194 "city" light for testing purposes.
 

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I had cut a hole in the plastic to insert a bend in the paper clip to hold it in place. The first one I made, I glued it all down because I wasn't sure how strong it would be. Turns out that wasn't necessary, as you can see in my second version




So, inside that hole is just a U-shaped bend in the paper clip, as a sort of 'peg'. Granted, once installed they don't move much, but they are still holding quite strong :)

The more tricky part was making a 3rd contact inside the headlight to make it work, but until then I just had a wire wrapped around the loop and strung back into the headlight and connected to the 194 "city" light for testing purposes.
You got some patience bro.Ill give you that.Dat 2nd set is looking good though.
 

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How did you manage to add a contact in the housing? Got any pics?
No :( Something was wrong with the card and all the pics were corrupted. I used some grounding "fingers" from an old server case and epoxied them to the headlight housing in position, with the wire soldered on. Not especially pretty but not ugly, and nobody can see it anyway.
 

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I decided to turn the white part of my LED switchbacks into a sort of DRL. With this mod, the white portion of the switchback LEDs come on when the ignition is ON (not accessory position) and the hand brake is down. Pulling the handbrake up when parked turns them off. Turning on the headlights does not alter the behavior, but it would be easy enough to turn them off with an additional relay if you decided to.

This was actually a relatively easy mod (since I had already done the swithcback mod.) The hardest part was running the wire for the hand brake switch through the firewall. I chose to run it through the grommet for the windshield wiper wires.

1. My car has a fuse position that is unused (shown as a slash in the upper left of the photo.). I used a "add a fuse" to tap into that. This particular fuse position retains power for 90 seconds after turning the car off, so it also makes a good "hey, you forgot to pull up the hand brake lever" reminder.





2. Using the hand brake switch (so the LEDs turn off when the hand brake is pulled up) I created the following circuit:



3. Here's a picture of the installed relay:



That's all there was to it. I know this isn't as bright as a "true" DRL, but I like the added visibility of the car.

Update 09/27/12:

I added a second relay to turn off the DRL when the headlights are turned on. I also added a 12V voltage regulator to fix a problem with "transient flashes" on the switchbacks.

Updated Schematic:



Picture of second tap-a-fuse for the headlight power:



Picture of relays installed:

is there a specific kind of relay that i would need to turn them off with my headlights on? and what wires do u have hooked up to the "turn-off with headlights on" relay pins?
also, what can i do to make the switchback flash "amber-on, amber-off, amber-on, amber-off" instead of "amber-on, white-on, amber-on, white-on"?
 
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