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Nice to say "just take out the display". How in the world do I take it out?? Do I take apart the whole dash? Do I take off the console, the radio, heater vents? Where do I start?? Seems like a mess. HELP!!!
Pull off the shift knob, then you can pull the center 'tray' area up and out. There are 4 plastic clips that hold it to the black plastic surrounding the console. Once you have the cup holder area out, you'll see two phillips screws underneath the main head unit that are holding it in place. There's a 3rd screw behind the console that is holding the stereo in place. The ONLY way to get to it, is by going through the glove box.

Once you have those 3 screws out, you can begin to pry the center console out. It might take a little bit of force, just be patient and wiggle it around. Once that's taken out, you'll be able to pull the LCD display out with ease :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Thanks Stephen, Also depends on model because of the manual hvac has 2 screws behind the knobs i believe? But some else can chime in on that one.

If you search radio removal you should see a thread with some pictures on the removal process.
 

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Has anyone else had success with this? mine is pretty bad but i am also defiantly afraid to put an electrical component in the oven!!! so a few more confirmations that this works would completely sell me and ill have to become a baker lol
 

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Thanks Stephen, Also depends on model because of the manual hvac has 2 screws behind the knobs i believe? But some else can chime in on that one.

If you search radio removal you should see a thread with some pictures on the removal process.
He's right.. pull off the manual knobs and youll see philips head screws. those must be removed first to remove the molding
 

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I have sent this procedure to Silicon Method and they have agreed to give it a shot.
Silicon Method repaired the display in my Toyota Tacoma in the past and did an excellent job. I will post the results when I get it back. It will probably be a couple weeks before I take the display out.
 

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Why not fix the bad solder joint and not tamper with the rest?? Get a 10X eye loop and look at all the solder connections and touch it up by resoldering that connection. Paste this and look about! This is what you're looking for! https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...urce=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=9hIQUcKxCuuz0QHGkoGIBg

** these are STATIC SENSITIVE and you need to try and stay grounded as much as possible or you risk killing the active circuits on the board.

A Good Practice to Follow when handling Printed Circuit Boards:
Remove from car and lay it on aluminum foil.
Handle only by the edges with the least amount of leads and components.
When in the house, touch a grounded object to discharge any energy your body gathered. Try to wear cotton vs polyester clothes.
Touch - the screw to the cover plate on a wall outlet - its usually a safe ground. As would most 3 prong fixtures with metallic bodies. Touching a painted surface isn't much help. You need to discharge.. .. ..

NOW - pickup the circuit board and make repairs. When done, lay it back on the foil.

Lead and lead free solder both take 650 to 750F to melt. Little good is coming of 200F in the oven. If you try to solder with a tin/lead off the shelf solder and it splatters all over - around 2010 most PCBA manufactures are moving towards LEAD FREE SOLDER. Most everything BEFORE 2010/ early 2011 should be leaded and easily soldered.

After 2011 you "**likely need**" lead free solder, lead free solder tip, and too boot, moisture in the air will make lead free solder near impossible to join without causing dry stress crack. Newer lead free components ship in a vacuum bag with moisture strips to indicate level of bake time required to remove the moisture. These are much harder to solder and often fracture much easier than conventional leaded solder with tin.

If anyone wants more informaion let me know. Or google soldering with lead free solder.

For the early stuff you can buy cheap solder irons with fine tips and youtube how to solder. The trick is finding the fractured lead(s).

Here is why I say this about baking: military grade parts are usually rated up to 105C/221F. Most automotive parts in the cabin don't care for high temps and are likely only rated to 70C/160F.

By baking completed circuit boards you could easily take the life of many of the components. Thus solder touch up of individual leads is best.

JJD952

Can you mix lead free solder with leaded solder?
 

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I did this for my 2004 Mazda6S LCD display and it works! I preheated the oven to 220F and baked the display face down for 12 minutes and let it air cool to room temperature. Every part of the display now works great!

Thanks!
 

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I tried this repair, but at one point or another I lost the illumination to my whole radio including the buttons on this clock bezel (Clock, set, Dimmer and Amb all no longer light up) The screen is still lit though and so is my cigarette lighter and ash tray.

I checked all the fuses and even bought another clock bezel from Pick n Pull just to see if i messed something up in the display, and nothing changes.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Unfortunately I didn't have any luck with my repair. Silicon method was unable to work on the chip. But they didn't charge me for their time either.
 

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Can you mix lead free solder with leaded solder?
It sorta works but it is not recommended. Using lead on lead free is doable for repairs while lead free to leaded is not going to work as well. Lead free is mostly Tin IIRC so it can lead to dry cracking.
 

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It sorta works but it is not recommended. Using lead on lead free is doable for repairs while lead free to leaded is not going to work as well. Lead free is mostly Tin IIRC so it can lead to dry cracking.
What he said, and yes lead-free is mostly tin. Typically Sn-Ag-Cu. Tin-Silver-Copper.
 

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I tried this repair, but at one point or another I lost the illumination to my whole radio including the buttons on this clock bezel (Clock, set, Dimmer and Amb all no longer light up) The screen is still lit though and so is my cigarette lighter and ash tray.

I checked all the fuses and even bought another clock bezel from Pick n Pull just to see if i messed something up in the display, and nothing changes.

Any help would be appreciated.
There is a connection on the back of the radio where the CD player mounts to it and that supplies power for illumination. Found that out on my own when this similar situation happened to me when I tried removing my radio without removing the Jesus bolt first. That connection came apart and I accidentally bent some pins on it.
 

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Hello guys,

I registered on this forum just to reply on this thread.
I am from Europe and I have a Mazda6 model 2002. GG, Hatchback.
I want first of all to thank everybody for contributing to this thread, the info shared really helps fixing the display.

For me the "saga" with the display started when this summer started, display started to mix letters, flash text, displaying wrong info and so on. Usually after the car was sitting enough in the sun.
More frustrating for me was that sometimes it was working perfectly and sometimes not, and it was not possible at all to replicate the problems when I wanted to. With the circuit board completely open, connected to the head unit - was working fine, I was assembling it back, mounting it in the car again.. working fine that day, next day was starting to mix letters again...
I have experience with electronics so I did the repair myself although I don't have all the tools I would like to have, as I don't work in this field.
What I want to add to this thread was:
for me the reflow of the micro-controller on the main board of display did not work, I did it 3 times and no luck. I re-soldered the pins of absolutely all the connectors involved with display, the ones which go to the back of display unit and also the ones on the face of the head unit - the 3 main connectors with 18 pins. Nothing worked.
After a period of almost a week while trying and testing I noticed one night that the back illumination of head unit (the stereo itself) for the buttons stopped working completely.
I was mad, instead of fixing the display I ruined the back light of the buttons..of the radio..
What I did:
I completely disassembled the main radio unit (for me is the Panasonic/Matsushita one, not Bose) and I reached the main board. I kept on it only the radiators for the transistors and the audio amplifier so I can test it without burning them.
I tried to find the illumination circuit and I found it - there is 12V permanent (it switches ON and OFF as you switch ON and OFF the lights of the car) on the main stereo connector, first small pin on the up-left as you look into the "mother" connector on the stereo. From there, the 12V goes to a big resistor on the board, numbered R725. That resistor was completely burned, I was not able to read the info on it so I could recognize and replace. From that resistor the voltage was continuing in the collector of 2 large transistors with radiator, put in Darlington connection.
Output of this circuit is 8V, and it goes from there in the connector for the "face" of the stereo, connector 901 - the pin number 12. There I had 8V, but when I was connecting the face that voltage was dropping to 0, sign that not enough current (A) was there...
What I did was just a guess, I was afraid that if resistor is burned may the transistors were burned too.
I desperately searched for the repair manual of the stereo unit and incredible I found it online. In the manual is the schematic and the part list.
R725 which was burned is 1ohm, 2W resistor. I bought this resistor, replaced the burned one and... light of all the small bulbs that illuminates the face and the buttons went ON!!
After that, I put everything back, installed in the car... and I noticed that also display works normally! :O :O
I said.. naaah, is just temporary.. it can't be.
No, 1 day passed, 2 days, 3 days, 4 days, car in the sun a lot as is very warm here in this period.. nothing wrong anymore! The display works as new!!

This is what i wanted to share, resistor R725 - it is written on the board, is the biggest one, color white-gray. All the circuit in that area is a bit yellowish as this resistor heats a lot.
I guess in time this resistor weakens and weakens.. allowing less and less current to the transistors and the current of those 8V voltage (which is required also for some functions of the LCD) drop until the LCD screen starts malfunctioning.

Anyway, that is my story, I am so happy I could fix it due to this forum which is great.
I am a Mazda lover, I had Mazda2, Mazda Miata/MX5 NB, and for the last 2 years this Mazda6 that I love so much.
 

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Hello guys,

I registered on this forum just to reply on this thread.
I am from Europe and I have a Mazda6 model 2002. GG, Hatchback.
I want first of all to thank everybody for contributing to this thread, the info shared really helps fixing the display.

...............

This is what i wanted to share, resistor R725 - it is written on the board, is the biggest one, color white-gray. All the circuit in that area is a bit yellowish as this resistor heats a lot.
I guess in time this resistor weakens and weakens.. allowing less and less current to the transistors and the current of those 8V voltage (which is required also for some functions of the LCD) drop until the LCD screen starts malfunctioning.

Anyway, that is my story, I am so happy I could fix it due to this forum which is great.
I am a Mazda lover, I had Mazda2, Mazda Miata/MX5 NB, and for the last 2 years this Mazda6 that I love so much.
Fantastic contribution!
 

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And an update to my story with the display.
After 2 weeks of working perfectly one night the LCD started acting like disco lights again, flipping letters,mixing letters.. the same as in the beginning. I was.. pissed, I was felling the only solution to this was to change the car! :D
It seems that the resistor story was just a coincidence because I managed to burn it again.
- if you connect the circuit board of the display - without the LEDs board - you will burn that resistor.
I wanted to test with another display unit that I have, was opened, without the circuit board with leds. In the second you start the car lights the resistor will smoke. Anyway, the second display was doing the same funny stuff..
So, the issue had to be on the main unit!
- I tracked the pins of connector 901 (connects "face" of the stereo, with the main board of stereo on the right side). Pin no. 3 is the "LCD data" from the manual. I followed the circuit and it goes to one side of the main chip on the main board. It is the biggest chip named NEC, with 30+ pins on one side. It is not covered in silicone.
What I did - resoldered all the pins on that side of this chip.
At first try the stereo was not working at all. (I think I joined 2 or more pins)
At second try with more care and more anti-fat paste for soldering - I tested it the car.. stereo working fine, display working fine. ALELUIA!!
I tested each time with just the boards in my hand, face and main board coupled in 2 connectors and main board connected to the car and only the radiator attached to the amplifier. (it works, but please be careful).

Bottom line - if you encounter issues like mine - go to the main chip on the main board of the head unit.

I noticed, with the second display that I have - when the problems are with the chip on the board of the display the errors in the actual display are localized: few letters missing, etc. For me the errors were "dynamic", text appearing and disappearing, mixed letters, 250 deg instead of 25, clock 18:45 instead of 12:45, flashing, etc... - this lead me to the idea that the problem is if the information received by display unit and not the unit itself. Communication between main board of the stereo and the display unit is made in digital serial mode.

Things to be taken into consideration when doing the repair:
DISPLAY UNIT
1. - the plastic housing under the LCD screen is tricky to remove - bend the screen (the pins) to almost vertical position - even like this are 3 edges of the plastic housing that are over the glass of the LCD... try to lean the plastic housing as much as you can to release it in those 3 spots. On my second display unit bought from scrap yard I managed to crack the screen in the corner - it still works half..
2. the little edges that keep the plastic housing connected to the board will crack no matter what you do. They are not essential.. plastic housing stays under the screen even without them - the enforcing part is the metal case.
3. Best way to open it is to remove completely the screen, de-solder all the pins using a vacuum desoldering pump.
4. The board with leds - remove it with care - use a desoldering vacuum pump. Do not start the lights of the car if testing with it like this or you will burn resistor R725 on the main stereo board.

MAIN UNIT.
1. To remove it from the "face" unscrew the 4 big screws that keeps it attached to the face, disconnect the display connector on the right side.
1. to disassemble it remove absolutely all the screws. For the pink screws use a 8mm tubular wrench - do not use a philips screwdriver as you will destroy them.
2. First remove the back radiator, remove all its screws and pull it out. All the metal covers will come easily out after that.
3. The last metal cover of the board has one pin exactly on the middle that goes through the board and is bend on the other side of the board - unbend it and you can remove the cover.
4. Do not test in the car without the radiator attached to the amplifier chip!!! Although the unit will not start the sound without radiator.. better not play with it - you might burn the chip. Attach the radiator to the chip with the 2 long screws if you want to test it like this in the car.
5. Connector for all the data and power for the display is one of those 2 on the edge of the board, the one labeled 901. Pin 3 is "LCD DATA" (connector has 18 pins number 1 is labeled on the board)
 

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AND to update the main thread with important info:

The LCD screen or its pins are never a problem. The pins are very strongly attached to the screen.
Always the problem is with the soldering of the Surface Mounted Devices (SMD) - the chips on the boards.
 

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Anyone who has done this interested in helping me out? I'll cover shipping both ways and pay for your time. I'm in Michigan, shoot me a PM if you can help me out. Been dealing with a broken bezel for 4+ years and I'd love to have it fixed.
 
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