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Could you please tell me HOW you remove the display? I'm a girl with no guy to help her do this...and I don't want to break anything.
Also, can you tell me what to ask for as far as shopping around for a replacement part if this doesn't work?

Hey guys i tried this out yesterday and it worked! I saw the clock on my screen for the first time since I bought the car. Everything seemed to be 100%

This morning it was still working on my way to school. A couple lines started to fade on and off, but it was working again afterwards. Its much better than it was before.

So we'll see how long it lasts but for only an hour of my time, it was totally worth it. Thanks!
If either of you end up with the display out again, take some REAL GOOD close up pictures of the Circuit board. From this we may be able to lend some help if its solder contact issue.

Ping me by including @Final Impact in your post
 

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I have some of the displays that do not light up one day and then they light up the next. i.e.: radio station, heater direction, etc. Does this work for the whole unit? Seems like a simple fix. Please help. I have a 2003 Mazda 6s.
 

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I have some of the displays that do not light up one day and then they light up the next. i.e.: radio station, heater direction, etc. Does this work for the whole unit? Seems like a simple fix. Please help. I have a 2003 Mazda 6s.
Yes, you put the entire display and it's circuit board in the oven. Since the only cost is your time, it's worth a shot.
 

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Re: Fixing faded display

Do you guys think this would help mine?
Mine fades out completely when I hit the brakes and comes back when I let go?
It will stay on if I hit the breaks hold them and press the dimmer button
My car is an 03

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Sounds like you have a weird backfeed, a voltage issue or maybe even a dying alternator. When my alternator died the first sign of trouble was the display dimming. Not saying that's what it is, but it's never too early to have your charging system checked

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Re: Fixing faded display

Sounds like you have a weird backfeed, a voltage issue or maybe even a dying alternator. When my alternator died the first sign of trouble was the display dimming. Not saying that's what it is, but it's never too early to have your charging system checked

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Im going to use a voltage meter later on it to test it to see if it fluctuates under load or no I've been suspect of my alternator before and I have a feeling my system has sucked the life out of it.
But I really have no idea what would have caused this?

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I have been having the same problem for some time now and finally decided to take the display out and look at it. All the solder points look ok at first inspection. I work with couple of electrical/electronic engineers who design and deal with printed circuit boards every day. I will take it in tomorrow to see if they can diagnose the problem.



 

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This is the kind of stuff your looking for.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=fractured+solder+joints&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41867550,d.dmQ&biw=1049&bih=626&pdl=300&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=9hIQUcKxCuuz0QHGkoGIBg

Can you pop the black cover off the display and see how it connect to the PCBA? I say this because many LCD displays use an elastomer membrane to conduct between the LCD and the PCBA - a Zebra strip.
As these harden and heat/cool they loose conduction and segments/sections of the display drop out or get dim. These are candidates for removal and cleaning. Unfortunately they're typically a snap fit latch and its difficult to remove them without breaking the lock.

Look for a Zebra Strip like this between the PCBA and the display. In this picture the black conductors are internal to the pink membrane. They conduct from the silver pads on the green PCBA to the LCD contacts to energize each segment of the display. Clean the PCBA, the Zebra Strip, and the LCD with a isopropyl alcohol and cotton cloth and reassemble.


More info on what you may see: Thermal Interface Materials from Fujipoly America | ZEBRA Elastomeric Connectors
 

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hummm I have two extra displays... one is fine the other is not...
I thinking about to cook tomorrow...
It has been said already that baking in the oven will not fix the issue.



After I took mine to work we re-soldered two rows of pins that connect the glass display to the board. It didn’t fix the issue either as some of the pixels are still missing on the display when I assembled it back into the dash. The problem must be a bad glass itself or one of the components on the pcb.

Edit:

I did some more searching and came across a post on polish mazda forum, here's the link if you can read polish: Fotorelacja: Naprawa wy?wietlacza komputera pok?adowego na str. 3. Objaw: choinka na ekranie. (3/4).
There are two guys that have successfully fixed the problem and have posted a solution along with pictures but the post was from 2011 and the pictures are long gone. I'll be attempting to rework my display soon. I will post the results as soon I'm done.
 

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WARNING: do not attempt to do this yourself if you have no prior experience with fixing pcbs/electronic components. Ask a professional for help.

I did not diagnose the problem. All the credit goes to the great people on Polish Mazda forum: Forum MazdaSpeed
The issue is the SMT (surface mounted technology) microchip that has lost its connection to the pcb.


Remove and disassemble the display:




Unsolder and remove the metal frame:




Release tension on all pins and very carefully unbend the LCD screen to remove the black plastic housing:




Unsolder smaller pcb with LEDs:




All components:




This is the microchip. Silicon that covers it needs to be carefully removed. Use a small knife and soft metal brush.




Once you get to the microchip you need to refloat all it connections. You will need a good solder gun like Weller or similar.




Inspect for any shortened circuits / bad solders under the magnifying glass or microscope:




Assemble and test (you can also test the main board with lcd by itself without the leds and other components):


 

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Great post and information! Have you tried this yourself?

I would not have suspected solder joints on that chip as the main issue since you would think that would be a problem limited to a specific run of the boards. My original had the issue and the warranty replacement (replaced 3 years 8 months later) also has it now.

I'll definitely look at trying this once I get a nice lighted magnifying glass. :)
Scott
 

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Great post and information! Have you tried this yourself?

I would not have suspected solder joints on that chip as the main issue since you would think that would be a problem limited to a specific run of the boards. My original had the issue and the warranty replacement (replaced 3 years 8 months later) also has it now.

I'll definitely look at trying this once I get a nice lighted magnifying glass. :)
Scott
Yes, the pcb in the pictures is from my car, I have successfully reworked my display few days ago and it still works perfectly. According to my friend, who helped me, SMT lead free technology is fairly new and was not fully perfected in early 2000’s and that’s what caused the issue. By replacing a bad part with a new/used one you still taking a risk of it going bad, just like you described in your case.
 

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Yes, the pcb in the pictures is from my car, I have successfully reworked my display few days ago and it still works perfectly. According to my friend, who helped me, SMT lead free technology is fairly new and was not fully perfected in early 2000’s and that’s what caused the issue. By replacing a bad part with a new/used one you still taking a risk of it going bad, just like you described in your case.
Great, glad to hear some personal experience posted here.

I would have thought that they would have resolved any issues with SMT lead-free soldering 3.5 years later. :)

Any recommendation on a source for a good lighted magnifying glass? Already have the Weller soldering station from a prior life (although it did not involve soldering SMT!).

Scott
 

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Hey guys, glad i found this tutorial. my boy repairs cell phones and hes got all the tools and the know how to do this. we spent a lot of time trying to get the metal frame off the LCD display (that things a bitch to take off). Long story short it does work, under the microscope we found that the main chip had a few loose "connections" re soldering fixed the problem. Works like new! thanks for the TuT! beats buying a new one for $150 plus.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Can a mod sticky this. I would recommend your fix be made permanent.
 

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UPDATE:

A TIP really...

While you have the unit disassembled re solder all the connections! had to remove it again cause those pins you see at the bottom that are connected to the LCD and the board need soldering too. Pretty much solder everything that needs it! but re did it and its like brand new!
 

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I just purchased an '06 6s (85K miles), and have observed the display does not come on (or does not light up) during the first 15 minutes of so after a cold-start in cool-weather conditions (e.g. 30s F, rain/snow). After the car has warmed up, the display appears to turn on.

How likely is this symptom caused by failing chip solder that's addressed in this thread?
 

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Nice to say "just take out the display". How in the world do I take it out?? Do I take apart the whole dash? Do I take off the console, the radio, heater vents? Where do I start?? Seems like a mess. HELP!!!
 
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