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Discussion Starter #21
Actually I want to give an update on mine. It is slowly starting to revert back into its old ways again. I will try rebaking it but this is not a permanent fix.
 

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That sux man, hopefully rebaking it will help keep it working properly. I actually happened to find a replacement on ebay for about 140 prolly gonna order it in the next few days.
 

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Actually I want to give an update on mine. It is slowly starting to revert back into its old ways again. I will try rebaking it but this is not a permanent fix.
Try a higher temp like 10 mins @ 250

Not much left to lose at this point... sucks it's not a permanent fix. It must have something to do with the vibrations of the car, because every coputer component I've done it to still works years later.
 

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I just attempted this project to see if it would work on mine. 10 mins at 250 didn't melt anything and all the LEDs seem to be working for now. I guess I will see how long it lasts.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Try a higher temp like 10 mins @ 250

Not much left to lose at this point... sucks it's not a permanent fix. It must have something to do with the vibrations of the car, because every coputer component I've done it to still works years later.
Actually I think it might have something to do with the temperature inside the car. It was working perfectly until that random heat wave about 2 months back. Started acting funky after that but would work again. Then when the cold hit and I started using my heat i noticed it didnt like that.

I am wondering how hot it gets sitting on top the the vents and under the dash on a warm sunny day.
 

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For what it is worth, I noticed that the display looks best in very hot temperatures (95 deg +). Now that it is cooler out, it is completely unreadable. I'm think I'm going to try baking it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
For what it is worth, I noticed that the display looks best in very hot temperatures (95 deg +). Now that it is cooler out, it is completely unreadable. I'm think I'm going to try baking it.
Thats weird. Mine is just the opposite. One cold mornings it seems to be perfect. Once driving around with the heat on I start to notice the fade starting.

I cant wait to see what happens after the next baking.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
 

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I had a feeling your were going there. That statement just felt like it was missing something.
 

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Thats weird. Mine is just the opposite. One cold mornings it seems to be perfect. Once driving around with the heat on I start to notice the fade starting.

I cant wait to see what happens after the next baking.

Hey,
So any new reports on the baking? Has anyone tried to just junk on more soder? Not sure how much real estate there is on that board.

I have same issue, cold temps the screen looks relatively normal, when it gets hot out, you can't really see anything but the time. Having it in Florida for the last 7 years, I know temps exceeded 150 degrees daily during the summer...
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I wish it was that easy. But most boards after solder baths have a coating or chemical resin that makes them more resistant to electrical shortages during handle and protects the solder.

With that being said when you heat up each solder point you actually remove this resin but it would be a process of hit or miss of resoldering every point in hopes of making sure everything is getting good contact.
 

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Why not fix the bad solder joint and not tamper with the rest?? Get a 10X eye loop and look at all the solder connections and touch it up by resoldering that connection. Paste this and look about! This is what you're looking for! https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=fractured+solder+joints&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41867550,d.dmQ&biw=1049&bih=626&pdl=300&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=9hIQUcKxCuuz0QHGkoGIBg

** these are STATIC SENSITIVE and you need to try and stay grounded as much as possible or you risk killing the active circuits on the board.

A Good Practice to Follow when handling Printed Circuit Boards:
Remove from car and lay it on aluminum foil.
Handle only by the edges with the least amount of leads and components.
When in the house, touch a grounded object to discharge any energy your body gathered. Try to wear cotton vs polyester clothes.
Touch - the screw to the cover plate on a wall outlet - its usually a safe ground. As would most 3 prong fixtures with metallic bodies. Touching a painted surface isn't much help. You need to discharge.. .. ..

NOW - pickup the circuit board and make repairs. When done, lay it back on the foil.

Lead and lead free solder both take 650 to 750F to melt. Little good is coming of 200F in the oven. If you try to solder with a tin/lead off the shelf solder and it splatters all over - around 2010 most PCBA manufactures are moving towards LEAD FREE SOLDER. Most everything BEFORE 2010/ early 2011 should be leaded and easily soldered.

After 2011 you "**likely need**" lead free solder, lead free solder tip, and too boot, moisture in the air will make lead free solder near impossible to join without causing dry stress crack. Newer lead free components ship in a vacuum bag with moisture strips to indicate level of bake time required to remove the moisture. These are much harder to solder and often fracture much easier than conventional leaded solder with tin.

If anyone wants more informaion let me know. Or google soldering with lead free solder.

For the early stuff you can buy cheap solder irons with fine tips and youtube how to solder. The trick is finding the fractured lead(s).

Here is why I say this about baking: military grade parts are usually rated up to 105C/221F. Most automotive parts in the cabin don't care for high temps and are likely only rated to 70C/160F.

By baking completed circuit boards you could easily take the life of many of the components. Thus solder touch up of individual leads is best.

JJD952
 

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I wish it was that easy. But most boards after solder baths have a coating or chemical resin that makes them more resistant to electrical shortages during handle and protects the solder.

With that being said when you heat up each solder point you actually remove this resin but it would be a process of hit or miss of resoldering every point in hopes of making sure everything is getting good contact.
There are commongly used items and they both are used for different reasons.

Conformal coating to resist moisture and make the circuit robust throughout all environmental conditions and various forms of potting.

Conformal coating can be very thin but hard to get off. Likely not used in the cabin where its dry.
Potting: looks like clear epoxy encasing everything making repairs impossible. Often used in high vibration, tamper resistant, data sensitive places.

Both are very unfriendly should repairs be needed. An example of potting is the COP pack. it basically looks like epoxy pored over the wires core.
 

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Could you please tell me HOW you remove the display? I'm a girl with no guy to help her do this...and I don't want to break anything.
Also, can you tell me what to ask for as far as shopping around for a replacement part if this doesn't work?
 

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Hey guys i tried this out yesterday and it worked! I saw the clock on my screen for the first time since I bought the car. Everything seemed to be 100%

This morning it was still working on my way to school. A couple lines started to fade on and off, but it was working again afterwards. Its much better than it was before.

So we'll see how long it lasts but for only an hour of my time, it was totally worth it. Thanks!
 
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