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I have a semi related question.

Has anyone done this to their dogbone mount? Seems like a simple way to add about 20 duro to it.

Sent from the wrong side of the tracks.
I did my dogbone mount at the same time. Less wheel hop. More vibration at idle. Meh.
 

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Here is another pic with the finished product. I actually used smoothing tools to get this finish -- that's how awful this stuff is to work with.


Good luck and let me know if you guys have any questions!

Hey can you help me understand how this impacts the original DIY? Are you suggesting that when the car is in the air on jackstands we should lift the front suspension up until it is at ride height, and then fill in? Or we should lift the car up and let the wheels hang down when we fill in?

Thanks!
Either is really fine, but you may increase the ride height a bit by filling the gaps with the suspension at full extension. I would definitely recommend filling the gaps with the suspension at ride height, but it's not required.
 

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I have a 2014 MTX and find it REALLY hard to keep the throttle constant when I'm inching along in first gear at 1000-1500 RPM in traffic. The car tends to buck slightly even when I'm trying my damnedest to keep the throttle perfectly still. I assumed it was because slight bucking when letting go of the clutch was causing the ultra sensitive pedal to cause more bucking even after the clutch was fully engaged.

Do you think this modification would reduce my issue? I think I'm going to do this mod anyways because of your glowing reviews, but thought I'd ask anyways.
 

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I am planning to do this mod this weekend. Two questions:

1) is there any reason the car has to be lifted to do this? several posts have said it is best to put the urethane into the bushing while using a jackstand to hold it at a neutral position. so why not just apply urethane while the car is sitting on the ground/ramps?

2) do you apply the urethane to these holes on the side of the bushing toward the front of the car, the back of the car, or doesn't it matter because the holes go all the way through??


Thanks!
Daniel
 

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I am planning to do this mod this weekend. Two questions:

1) is there any reason the car has to be lifted to do this? several posts have said it is best to put the urethane into the bushing while using a jackstand to hold it at a neutral position. so why not just apply urethane while the car is sitting on the ground/ramps?

2) do you apply the urethane to these holes on the side of the bushing toward the front of the car, the back of the car, or doesn't it matter because the holes go all the way through??


Thanks!
Daniel
If you can get under the car without jacking, then have at it!

But seriously, you need to jack the car to reach the bushings.

And fill all the holes.

Sent from a Samsung that doesn't explode.
 

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If you can get under the car without jacking, then have at it!

But seriously, you need to jack the car to reach the bushings.

And fill all the holes.

Sent from a Samsung that doesn't explode.

Ha, well I looked at it yesterday and I could just barely reach the bushing without jacking. Thinking if I drive up onto some stacked 2x4s to get the car a few inches higher in the air, that I could easily do this. I am going to lift the car on a friends lift for some other work and will clean the bushings while it is in the air. But I can't leave it sit on the lift for the 12-14 hrs.

Thinking it's best to clean and prep everything on the lift, drive home, park on some 2x4's and then apply the urethane. Then in the morning, drive off the wood with an improved ride! Will report back how it goes.

To further clarify, when you say all the holes, you mean fill all 4 holes on both the front and back side of each bushing, so 16 holes total?
 

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Ha, well I looked at it yesterday and I could just barely reach the bushing without jacking. Thinking if I drive up onto some stacked 2x4s to get the car a few inches higher in the air, that I could easily do this. I am going to lift the car on a friends lift for some other work and will clean the bushings while it is in the air. But I can't leave it sit on the lift for the 12-14 hrs.

Thinking it's best to clean and prep everything on the lift, drive home, park on some 2x4's and then apply the urethane. Then in the morning, drive off the wood with an improved ride! Will report back how it goes.

To further clarify, when you say all the holes, you mean fill all 4 holes on both the front and back side of each bushing, so 16 holes total?
If you can get to the bushings without jacking the car, then there's no reason to put it on a lift just to clean them. Just get the crud off and make a mess with the poly.

IIRC there's not much to get to on the front as it's kind of a conical shape. You should be fine just filling the 4 pockets on the back.

Also, dump some water under the car after you finish. This stuff cures with humidity.
 

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I did my own version of this so it could be undone if I wanted. I bought two feet of fuel hose and crammed it into most of the little holes (quite difficult in some parts) while the car was up on ramps. I cut the hose into 1 inch pieces, lubricated the pieces with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol), then crammed them in and waited for the isopropanol to evaporate (was doing an oil change so there was ample time). I don't know if the pieces will stay in permanently, but I do like the resulting effect on handling. I might make this permanent by injecting polyurethane, IF the hose pieces actually fall out at some point.

Btw, the hose was 5$ at advance auto, so if you guys want to demo the changes in handling before actually committing to this permanent solution, try it this way. I used (I think) half inch fuel line, maybe 3/4 inch, I honestly dont remember! Whatever hose you get should be larger than the holes you are trying to fill though, and you might have to use some elbow grease to cram it in even with lubrication, if you know what I mean.
 

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I did my own version of this so it could be undone if I wanted. I bought two feet of fuel hose and crammed it into most of the little holes (quite difficult in some parts) while the car was up on ramps. I cut the hose into 1 inch pieces, lubricated the pieces with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol), then crammed them in and waited for the isopropanol to evaporate (was doing an oil change so there was ample time). I don't know if the pieces will stay in permanently, but I do like the resulting effect on handling. I might make this permanent by injecting polyurethane, IF the hose pieces actually fall out at some point.

Btw, the hose was 5$ at advance auto, so if you guys want to demo the changes in handling before actually committing to this permanent solution, try it this way. I used (I think) half inch fuel line, maybe 3/4 inch, I honestly dont remember! Whatever hose you get should be larger than the holes you are trying to fill though, and you might have to use some elbow grease to cram it in even with lubrication, if you know what I mean.
That sounds awesome! The rubber should hold up to stress better than the poly over time too. Well done.
 

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And you will make a mess. Oh, dear Lord...


Not sure if loaded or uploaded makes any difference at all. I did mine unloaded, and I'm perfectly happy with it. Any difference would be very subtle.

Sent from a Samsung that doesn't explode.
 

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And you will make a mess. Oh, dear Lord...


Not sure if loaded or uploaded makes any difference at all. I did mine unloaded, and I'm perfectly happy with it. Any difference would be very subtle.

Sent from a Samsung that doesn't explode.

So I went ahead and did this modification WITHOUT lifting the car in the air. After doing so, I highly suggest performing this mod this way. Next time, I would stack 3 pieces of wood instead of 2 though.

My reasoning:
1) Car is at the perfect height, so you know that when it dries, ride height will not be affected
2) Car needs to dry for 12-24hrs, I can't leave my car on jackstands for that long since I live in an apartment
3) It's faster!


Be sure to use many pairs of gloves and place cardboard underneath where you are working. This stuff is sticky. 91% rubbing alcohol cleans it up well if you use a lot of it.

All in all, well worth the $30 bucks for urethane and 20 minutes of my time. Car turns in and bites like never before. Combining this mod with the new rear sway bar, and for the first time I can call the Mazda6 a decent bmw substitute.
 

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I still haven't got around doing this mod but I like what you did.

How much clearance did you get with the stack? I am asking because I am lowered and I need to create some clearance to get under the car.

Also did you put the stack only in the front or in the rear as well?
 

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I still haven't got around doing this mod but I like what you did.

How much clearance did you get with the stack? I am asking because I am lowered and I need to create some clearance to get under the car.

Also did you put the stack only in the front or in the rear as well?

Thanks! I put it only under the front wheel since that is where the bushing is. My car is stock ride height and I made enough clearance to just barely pull this off and slide my shoulder and arms under. Hence my recommendation for 3 blocks instead of two.

If you are lowered, I would say you probably need 4 pieces of wood and at that point I would question the safety of it...you could go get a set of rhinoramps or similar from autozone/walmart?
 

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Just did this over the weekend, just drove front wheels up on 2x4s, slid under there. I only filled from the back, but filled everything I could and then smoothed a thin layer across the whole bushing with my finger (like in @dp741 pictures). Took just about 10 minutes, mostly because I kept re-checking the bushings and trying to push as much stuff in there as I could, and I was done.

So happy with the way the car feels, the steering has a sense of solidity that I didn't realize how badly it needed it until now! Also doesn't feel any harsher, in fact over speed bumps I think it is more comfortable with a stable thud sensation, less giggly.
 
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Here's what it actually looks like, I didn't use any tools just squirted what I could to fill the gaps then squirted some on my finger and spread a layer across the whole thing (it's not super clean or precise but it's not particularly visible so why does it matter). My thinking was that I am not altering the stiffness of the actual suspension just the bushing.

Even happier with the mod after a few days. I find myself looking for excuses to throw it hard into corners!

I still plan to add strut bar, but I no longer think I need a stiffer sway bar in the front (though maybe in the back).
 

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Forgot to specify I was wearing gloves, this stuff is really annoying... if you get it on your skin or anything, it is hard to get off.
 

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Here's what it actually looks like, I didn't use any tools just squirted what I could to fill the gaps then squirted some on my finger and spread a layer across the whole thing (it's not super clean or precise but it's not particularly visible so why does it matter). My thinking was that I am not altering the stiffness of the actual suspension just the bushing.

Even happier with the mod after a few days. I find myself looking for excuses to throw it hard into corners!

I still plan to add strut bar, but I no longer think I need a stiffer sway bar in the front (though maybe in the back).

Hey! Glad you like the mod. I wouldn't bother with a strut bar. Hardly noticable on most cars and the mazda6 chasis is significantly stiffer than average. Part of the design philosphy they used.

Definitely get a rear swaybar. NOT a front one. The car understeers like crazy stock. If you stiffen the front swaybar then it worsens the understeer. Best mods I have done to the car are a rear sway and this urethane mod.

I used the progress rear bar intended for mazda 3. Cheaper and I have read better made than the other options like corksport. It fit perfectly. See: http://forum.mazda6club.com/suspension-brakes/385578-progress-anti-sway-bar-new-rsb-option.html
 
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