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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For those who can't stand the looseness and jiggle of the front suspension here is how you fix it:

Step 1: buy the Urethane window glue shown in the attached photo. I got it from Autozone for a little under $30, and make sure it is not expired.

Step 2: Jack up your car and USE JACK STANDS!!! as shown in the second photo, it is the best place for the jack stands for the car and keep the stands out of your way when working.

Step 3:
Figure out which holes you want to plug per the 3rd photo and clean them out with. cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol. I also applied Vaseline to the control arm on the forward side of the bushing where I wanted to fill the gap, with the Urethane only sticking to the bushing and not the control arm.

Step 4:
Apply the Urethane, which is pretty much the messiest thing I have ever worked with, with a caulking gun. Just about nothing touches it for clean up except Acetone which just smears it around. If you get it on your hands it will be there for a week.

Step 5: Wait with the car jacked up for 12 hours if it is room temperature, or 24 hours if it is really cold.
 

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Cannot stress enough when you do this to use rubber (nitrile) gloves, have zero weight on the bushings (remove wheel), and wait for proper curing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I didn't take the wheels off. I figured whatever the unsprung weight and remaining spring force is would be insignificant relative to the static weight. Maybe it preloads the bushings a little? I'll check the ride height tomorrow. It seemed a little high when I initially dropped the car, a nd had a bunch of stuff in the trunk.

***UPDATE*** I checked my ride height again after a few more days and without anything else in the trunk. I can notice it rides higher when scrutinizing it and measuring. The car now sits about .1" higher up front, really, almost nothing.

Which for me is actual perfect since I had a tiny bit too much rake to begin with. My CG keeps getting higher and higher but when I finally get the corksport springs on it will look like I'm running tanabes and should feel more hunkered down.
 

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So this mod is for rear and front?

Also, how does this affect the height of the car? Isn't that just doing more vibration dampening?

I really want to do this since I swear the steering is exploding every time I drive :-D

Did you get some of the wobble resolve through this mod as well

I already got rotors resurfaced .. wheel balanced .. alignment (2x) done .. etc .. this might be the solution to the annoying sounds :)
 

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Cannot stress enough when you do this to use rubber (nitrile) gloves, have zero weight on the bushings (remove wheel), and wait for proper curing.
Why remove the wheel? Isn't the suspension going to be under max drop from the spring anyway?

And I saw that you had high regards for this mod. Did you fill all of the gaps as well?
 

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I removed the wheel for ease of access only.
Remember, ideally, you want the bushing in "neutral" position when filling! Weighted down or up is not good.
Yes, I filled all the holes.

This can be done with any bushing on the suspension or rear motor/trans mount.

On the 6 the biggest noticeable gain would be the front control arm though.
Manual trans folks would see a improvement it they filled the trans mount.

If you have "wobble or vibrations" before this mod I'm thinking you have a different issue.

I let a guy with a "3" and a "Speed3" drive my car hard around a roundabout that had a nice bump in the middle and they both did this mod afterward. Speed3 guy loved the mod!
He swore it helped in putting down power.
 

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I didn't take the wheels off. I figured whatever the unsprung weight and remaining spring force is would be insignificant relative to the static weight.

***UPDATE*** I checked my ride height again after a few more days and without anything else in the trunk. I can notice it rides higher when scrutinizing it and measuring. The car now sits about .1" higher up front, really, almost nothing.

Which for me is actual perfect since I had a tiny bit too much rake to begin with. My CG keeps getting higher and higher but when I finally get the corksport springs on it will look like I'm running tanabes and should feel more hunkered down.
Common when you figure how the arm sits in the bushing with vehicle weight on it vs no weight or even opposite when vehicle is raised. This is why I insure the bushing is at center with no weight in either direction. I actually used a
jack to hold the arm "just perfect" in the center when filling.
Hence why I removed the wheel.
Either way ya do it the difference in ride height is very negligible.
 

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So this mod is for rear and front?

Also, how does this affect the height of the car? Isn't that just doing more vibration dampening?
Stiffening the lower control arm bushings is going to make any vibration you have worse.

It will reduce the flex of the wheel relative to the steering input, making the car feel more responsive. Its a halfway solution between OEM bushings and something even stiffer, like polyurethene bushings.
 

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Common when you figure how the arm sits in the bushing with vehicle weight on it vs no weight or even opposite when vehicle is raised. This is why I insure the bushing is at center with no weight in either direction. I actually used a
jack to hold the arm "just perfect" in the center when filling.
Hence why I removed the wheel.
Either way ya do it the difference in ride height is very negligible.
I'm thinking I may try to remove the arm completely for this. Looks fairly simple in the service manual. Is there a drawback to this that I'm missing?
 

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I'm thinking I may try to remove the arm completely for this. Looks fairly simple in the service manual. Is there a drawback to this that I'm missing?
When removing the control arm, you run the risk that you damage the ball joint boot with the removal tool (typically a pickle fork). If you can get it to drop out by tapping the top of the ball joint, then its not a big deal to remove it.

Its a bit of work though, IMO, just to fill the bushing with a bit of urethene. I wouldn't drop the arm unless I was going to press the bushing out and press in a real poly bushing, but thats just me.

Technically, if you drop the arm, you're supposed to align the car afterwards. I've swapped enough control arms to know that you don't really need to.
 

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I got into this procedure last night and got a little carried away with trying to remove all load from the bushing. I removed the struts (which isn't necessary if you just want to use jacks) so that I could lift the arm by hand and set it on a stand. I played around with different heights and [go figure] found that the bushing looked the least bound with the arm at its normal resting angle with the car on the ground. You can see the difference in how the square-ish cavities are deformed with the hub hanging free and supported at driving height:



 

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Are these bushings morphing on the load? I am not quite sure if I follow.
Yeah sorry I did a poor job of explaining the picture. Essentially, the picture on the left shows the bushing with the suspension fully extended (wheel off, car raised). You can see how the bushing is twisted a bit. The picture on the right is the bushing with the suspension leveled out to where it normally is with the car on the ground (it's happy place).


Like @davesxx01 was saying, you want to remove as much load as possible from the bushing before you fill the gaps with poly. I just wanted to share a visualization of what he was talking about.

I think @solar365 said that he filled the gaps with the suspension at full extension (left pic), which shouldn't be a problem, but would explain why his ride height increased a little. I'll be reassembling everything tonight so I can report back on the results after the weekend.
 

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This stuff is indeed an absolute mess. Be prepared for it to get everywhere that you touch or don't touch. Good lord.

I posted my thoughts about the mod over in the results thread (spoiler: I love it).

to the urethane. It's a little more expensive than some other options, but it will cure much quicker (I waited 48 hours -- I think it was well cured within 24). Keep in mind that this stuff cures best in a warm, humid environment. I was dumping buckets of water under the car 2x a day to keep the humidity up and help it along. Yes, I overdo everything.

Here is another pic with the finished product. I actually used smoothing tools to get this finish -- that's how awful this stuff is to work with.



Good luck and let me know if you guys have any questions!
 

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I have a semi related question.

Has anyone done this to their dogbone mount? Seems like a simple way to add about 20 duro to it.

Sent from the wrong side of the tracks.
 

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Here is another pic with the finished product. I actually used smoothing tools to get this finish -- that's how awful this stuff is to work with.


Good luck and let me know if you guys have any questions!

Hey can you help me understand how this impacts the original DIY? Are you suggesting that when the car is in the air on jackstands we should lift the front suspension up until it is at ride height, and then fill in? Or we should lift the car up and let the wheels hang down when we fill in?

Thanks!
 
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