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I've been reading forums for a long time, debating if I wanted to do my own HID install. I finally pulled the plug after reading up on some DDM Tuning lights/kit and I can say it's all kinds of easy. Total time about 45 minutes. Plug and play, simple. I've never done an HID swap, nor am I electrically inclined. However, you CAN'T GET IT WRONG.

Ordered the 35W/5k setup and winged it (with help from people here (thanks!)). Two things made it last as long as 45 minutes is because I couldn't access the driver's side light without pulling the inner wheel-well plastic and I plugged in the male end to the female end, closest to the bulb, backwards (which made it not light up; once I switched it...voila!). That probably would've brought overall install time to about 30 minutes.

I'm extremely satisfied with the results. I love the bright (not too bright) white light over the (now, by comparison) dim and yellow OEM lights. They cast a shade brighter and a better distance. Also the light is distributed more evenly and greater throughout the cast. So, without further ado...

Step 1: (I worked on the driver's side first because I knew it would be more difficult because I can't fit my hands into the space)
Pull off inner wheel-well plastic to access driver's side light (I didn't take a picture because it's in the manual). I only pulled out 6 quick fasteners.

Step 2: Reach up into bay where lights are and grab the OEM bulb, turn it (left or right about 90 degrees) and pull it out.

Step 3: Disconnect the bulb from the wire harness by pressing at point where wires meet the male plug and pulling (opposite my thumb)



Step 4: Plugging in. This step is foolproof. There's only one way the connections can be made, however, you can get one upside-down (as explained earlier). I plugged everything in, then slipped it down into the void spaces (closest to where I mounted ballast), then plugged in the HID bulb. **Note: cut off plastic, rigid white ring next to orange silicone ring. If not, the connection will not be air/water tight...you know what happens next.**

Step 5: zip tie ballasts and wiring to inside of body panels. As long as the ballasts and hardware is below where the fixed rubber stoppers contact the hood, then you're good.



That's basically it. Just repeat on passenger's side (except there's no need to make access through wheel-well. I'm 6"3' and my hands were able to fit in the voids available next to the washer fluid).

If any of this is unclear, please let me know. Also, I'm only going to write that this works with my specific HID kit (35W5k). It probably applies to other DDM kits, but I can only guarantee this works with my type kit.

I hope this helps.
 

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DDM-Tuning HID

I ordered the DDM 55x HID kit for my 2006 Mazda3. The day after it arrived I caved and bought my 2015 Mazda6 Touring. So, I read the exchange litterature on DDM's website and started the process.

Your post with the directions and immages is being very helpful. I really appreciate it.

After reading what you said about the brightness of the 35x I am thinking about changing my order to the 35x bulb.

Is the 55x annoyingly bright?
 

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anyway you can provide a link to which one you picked? When I checked the site you have to pick Wattage, Bulb Type and Bulb Color. I got the wattage and bulb color but which bulb type did you go for?
 

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DDM order

Here is what I ordered for the 2006 Mazda3. I will send that back tomorrow. Then I will do some research on 35 and 55w clear HID bulbs and order for the 6. I didn't learn anything about aftermarket lights before I ordered so I can't tell you much about what I currently have. Because I didn't want to make a totally uninformed decision I called and spoke/ordered over the phone. Here is the receipt info.

DDM

55W.H7.5000K 1 DDM HID Kit, 55W, H7, 5000K $39.95 $39.95
HID-Harness 1 HID Kit Wiring Harness $9.99 $9.99
Total $49.9

Anything you can teach me or recommend will be put to good use.

*Edit
I found this very informative https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110104152809AAgub8J
 

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I would steer clear of the 55watt ballasts. Aftermarket bulbs run hotter than oem bulbs, and they run even hotter at 55w compared to 35w. its a real good way to burn your projector and at that point, your headlights are pretty much fried.

Id stick to 35w
 

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DDM HID 5000K install

After reading this post I ordered the kit from DDM with the wire harness, thanks "snowhite". I installed it the same way. Coming from a car that had HID lights you really do miss them when you loose the added light output of the HID's. See picture difference of the light output. Look at both pictures as the viewer shows the same thing twice for some reason? The warm up time on these are 1-2 seconds longer than a stock D1-S or D2-S bulbs. must be the difference in the ballast
 

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I would steer clear of the 55watt ballasts. Aftermarket bulbs run hotter than oem bulbs, and they run even hotter at 55w compared to 35w. its a real good way to burn your projector and at that point, your headlights are pretty much fried.

Id stick to 35w
Don't forget that 55w will also flush out most of the color if you want a nice blue tint in the headlights. And my biggest reason for never wanting 55w is knowing that 100% of oncoming traffic will hate your guts.

Thanks for the writeup, @snoWhite - Adding it to my 3rd gen 1 stop shop.
 

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I've been reading forums for a long time, debating if I wanted to do my own HID install. I finally pulled the plug after reading up on some DDM Tuning lights/kit and I can say it's all kinds of easy. Total time about 45 minutes. Plug and play, simple. I've never done an HID swap, nor am I electrically inclined. However, you CAN'T GET IT WRONG.

Ordered the 35W/5k setup and winged it (with help from people here (thanks!)). Two things made it last as long as 45 minutes is because I couldn't access the driver's side light without pulling the inner wheel-well plastic and I plugged in the male end to the female end, closest to the bulb, backwards (which made it not light up; once I switched it...voila!). That probably would've brought overall install time to about 30 minutes.

I'm extremely satisfied with the results. I love the bright (not too bright) white light over the (now, by comparison) dim and yellow OEM lights. They cast a shade brighter and a better distance. Also the light is distributed more evenly and greater throughout the cast. So, without further ado...

Step 1: (I worked on the driver's side first because I knew it would be more difficult because I can't fit my hands into the space)
Pull off inner wheel-well plastic to access driver's side light (I didn't take a picture because it's in the manual). I only pulled out 6 quick fasteners.

Step 2: Reach up into bay where lights are and grab the OEM bulb, turn it (left or right about 90 degrees) and pull it out.

Step 3: Disconnect the bulb from the wire harness by pressing at point where wires meet the male plug and pulling (opposite my thumb)



Step 4: Plugging in. This step is foolproof. There's only one way the connections can be made, however, you can get one upside-down (as explained earlier). I plugged everything in, then slipped it down into the void spaces (closest to where I mounted ballast), then plugged in the HID bulb. **Note: cut off plastic, rigid white ring next to orange silicone ring. If not, the connection will not be air/water tight...you know what happens next.**

Step 5: zip tie ballasts and wiring to inside of body panels. As long as the ballasts and hardware is below where the fixed rubber stoppers contact the hood, then you're good.



That's basically it. Just repeat on passenger's side (except there's no need to make access through wheel-well. I'm 6"3' and my hands were able to fit in the voids available next to the washer fluid).

If any of this is unclear, please let me know. Also, I'm only going to write that this works with my specific HID kit (35W5k). It probably applies to other DDM kits, but I can only guarantee this works with my type kit.

I hope this helps.
i'm just wondering if you had to buy any extra harnesses? and the bulb is the H11 right? i'm wanting to do the same thing as soon as possible, just need this info to order it. good job on the install and thanks for your post!
 

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Have we also made sure that the folks in this thread installing HIDs are doing it properly?


I can't stand when people just throw in HIDs and call it a day. Only to take it out for a spin and blind people because they aren't aimed properly or they didnt retrofit proper projectors that are meant for HID bulbs.
 

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Don't the H11 HIDs come with return wire on top of the bulb that produces a shadow in the light pattern? I thought you had to use H11B to avoid that?

55W is an overkill, a pair of glaring suns for oncoming traffic, melt your projectors, and wiring harness There is absolutely no place for them in headlights that were designed for halogen bulbs.

Nihilus - I couldn't agree with you more

I also don't understand the madness behind wanting "a nice blue tint" - ever looked straight at real factory HIDs? They are white! They only produce a slight blue hue under an angle. In addition, the higher you go on a kelvin chart, the less light you are actually projecting on the road. In laments terms, the prettier your headlight color looks, the less useful they actually become.
 

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Thanks so much for posting this DIY. Just performed this on my touring and it looks awesome. I got the 35w 5000k from ddmtuning.

Install was as easy as it seems. I went in from the top and only thing I removed was the fuse box cover. I must say that my "smaller" Asian hands allowed me to do this without taking anything else off. :)

Everything was simply plug and play. If the light doesn't light up once connect, try changing the polarity of the bulb harness to the factory harness (flip it around).

Best $40 mod ever! Esp with our preexisting projector headlights.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@kodiak

Yes, buy the H11. I got 35W and 5000K, but the 4300K should give a clean white color. Mine are blueish but that's OK cuz it matches the license plate lights. They also match the interior domes and map and courtesy lights... And the trunk light. Swapped them all. And the glove light. So, it depends what ur going for. Looks really sharp at night and the bump in lumens and clarity helps driving at night. That's at least 51% of why I did the HID install: brighter and more clear at night.

I have a 2014 6 touring.
 

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After reading this post I ordered the kit from DDM with the wire harness, thanks "snowhite". I installed it the same way. Coming from a car that had HID lights you really do miss them when you loose the added light output of the HID's. See picture difference of the light output. Look at both pictures as the viewer shows the same thing twice for some reason? The warm up time on these are 1-2 seconds longer than a stock D1-S or D2-S bulbs. must be the difference in the ballast
hi roger did you have to drill a hole in the round headlight lid thats directly behind our bulbs in the first gen? and also what temp did you order? thanks in advance

-Ben
 

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I have the third gen car 2015. The bulbs were just plug and play. I did add a wiring harness and used a lead of the fuse box for power. the lights are 5000K. Which is bright enough for me!
 

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Nihilus - I couldn't agree with you more

I also don't understand the madness behind wanting "a nice blue tint" - ever looked straight at real factory HIDs? They are white! They only produce a slight blue hue under an angle. In addition, the higher you go on a kelvin chart, the less light you are actually projecting on the road. In laments terms, the prettier your headlight color looks, the less useful they actually become.

I wouldn't have a problem with 6000k, but any more than that is a waste to me.

Mine are stock hid's and those are 5000k-ish, lots of light.
 

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I wouldn't have a problem with 6000k, but any more than that is a waste to me.

Mine are stock hid's and those are 5000k-ish, lots of light.
Yep, after 5000K you start to get color and less light. Like you said, 6000K is the highest anyone should install if the reason they put HIDs in the first place was to get more light. Otherwise just put 18000K and rebadge the trunk with Civic Type R GTR RSPEC V8 emblems, all at the same time :hammerhea:
 

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I just installed the 35W 5000k's in my 2014 and it was super easy - 30min total.

FYI You DON'T have to go thru the driver wheel well if you just remove the nut and the bolt that hold the fuse box to the body. This will give you enough room to get your hand down to the driver side low beam (unless you have big hands).

I LOVE how much brighter these are than the OEM H11s Halogens. The car looks so good now and you can see significantly better. Best $29 I've ever spent on this car. Highly recommended.
 

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Yikes

So $30 for the HIDs and an additional $22 to ground ship to FL? Yikes! Did anyone else get hit with this shipping quote?
 
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