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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
* 1st 2 images are before and after of removing the seal over the headlight on the right side-This allows cooler ambient air in over the headlight. If I were running the stock airbox permanently I would do this over both headlights since this is where the airbox is drawing air from.
* The second set of photos is the fog light area before and after on the right side- I opened up the fake vents to allow cooler ambient in. If I were running the injen CAI I would also do this as it will allow cool ambient air to flow directly into the intake.
* The 5-6th photos are with the intake removed looking outward at the left side bumper support with the radiator on the right. I partitioned off the space where the air is coming in through the foglight housing to make sure it doesn't mix with the hot air near the radiator, again if I had the injen CAI I would do this as well
* The last photos are the cold air box itself that seals against the hood. The only place the intake can draw air from is over the headlight, and the side of the hood or the fog light location which you can see beyond the air filter in the last photo

Materials:
7 sqft of textured aluminum sheet (probably .030 thick) I got it from home depot Definitely don't use steel sheet due to weight and being 3 times stiffer would make it too difficult to work with.
1 large roll 3m automotive tape from autozone
~3 sq ft 1/16 thick neoprene rubber sheet from the feltstore.com
D shaped door weather seal to seal thin gaps, and contact between the cold air box and car

Method:
* As I said above describing the pictures the first order of business is getting some fresh air in the engine bay. I just used a brand new blade in a utility knive and it cut through the rubber seal and the plastic trim like butter. That was the easiest part of the whole project.
* Next I created the partition from the bumper support down to the subframe by cutting and forming the aluminum sheet. I had to cut around the clutch hydraulic hose and a bolt and the bumper attachment joint, and I closed those gaps and joined to the aluminum sheet to the radiator with the neoprene sheet
* Next I made the cold air box in such a way that it is bolted in and can be removed in two pieces (the inboard, aft and outboard sides are one piece then the forward piece is bolted to it).
- If you look close you can see the attach points to the car. One is the original attach point for the stock air box over the radiator, and another bolt behind the intake mounting to the support structure for that vertically mounted electronic box inboard from the fuse box. Those two anchor points support the intake when it tries to wobble with the engine from thrashing the cold air box around.
- The various formed and cut sheets of aluminum are simply bonded together with the 3M auto tape
- I formed the inboard face of the cold air box to be flush with the outboard end of the machined MAF hosing on the corksport intake. I then traced around the circle of the maf housing inlet to locate the hole for the air filter. I then cut an undersized hole the cut radially outward from it about 20-30 places all the way around and rolled over the resulting tabs, allowing a less than perfect fit to work and provide a springy interface to the air filter.
- To get the height of the air box right I used two straws, one split and partially stuffed inside the other unsplit one then temporarily attached them to the air box then closed the hood, which pushes the split one down to a certain point such that when I opened up the hood it showed me where the hood goes down to. I did that in about three or four places and then folded the upper edge of the aluminum sheet at about a 45 degree angle and attached the neoprene to it which stuck up another 2 inches. So when I finally shut the hood if the trim of the box was too low the neoprene would still close the gap and seal or if the aluminum was too high it just got bent over more than 45 degrees as the hood shut on it.
- I also had to accomodate the MAF wire to run into and out of the cold air box as you can see in the 8th picture,as it really could not be routed around the air box.

I'm embarrassed to say how long this took, but's better than anything you'll ever be able to buy. It wound have gone quicker if I'd gotten the neoprene sheet that has adhesive on one side. Cutting 3m tape into narrow strips and peeling of the backing is the real time killer.

I also have received from thefeltstore.com the nomex 1/8" fabric that I will use to wrap the entire intake system creating a thermal barrier between the intake system and the hot radiator air and engine block. I'm still debating what I'll wrap the fabric in. I'm leaning towards reynolds heavy duty aluminum foil at this point because the shiny surface will repel the radiant heat as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
As an update to this, I've been able to go back to 87 octane without the engine going into the safe mode, which it used to do on 89 before I put on the intake, so I have confirmed the engine is running a cooler intake charge than stock with my SRI...so I've got the best of all worlds with this setup.

As another update, Orange Virus Tuning has provided me a snapshot of the Ignition timing temperature correction table in our ECU.

It's in Celsius, but if you pick a column and move up and down it you can see the impact intake temps from an SRI can have on the spark advance. A little spark advance is worth a lot of power. And then there is still the air density drop that reduce mass air flow into the engine so it is a double whammy.

I'll quote a mazda engine designer commenting on skyactiv: "Keeping temps down in the combustion chamber is the name of the game" I think that's good advice for us modders too.

Temp = Real World Power

My next objective is to increase airflow through the radiator and engine bay to keep coolant temps down to since they are also a factor in the ignition advance.
 

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So when are you going to mas produce this? Have you contacted Corksport about maybe seeing the SRI with a air box like many of their competitors do?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Anybody can suggest a cold air box to Corksport. I suppose somebody could do a 3D scan or something to get an idea for the perfect shape, but there is no way I could figure out a way to mass produce this cost effectively.

Honestly more than half the benefit was just trimming the seal over the light and opening up the foglight housing. the shield for the K&N unit would probably get you another 25% of the way there. My totally sealed box just means I could go hot lapping and idle the car for 5 minutes and still have a cool intake charge.
 

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I just ordered the Corksport SRI for my 14 M6 Touring, and while I likely won't be able to (or have the know-how...lol) to do something like this, I would possibly like to at least push some extra cold air into the engine bay through the fog light area (even though it might be minimal).

How did you open up (or shall I say remove) the fake venting in the fog light area?

I just don't want to cut the weather stripping from above the headlight/hood area since I do a good amount of highway driving and don't want to create any vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How did you open up (or shall I say remove) the fake venting in the fog light area?

I just don't want to cut the weather stripping from above the headlight/hood area since I do a good amount of highway driving and don't want to create any vibration.
With a fresh blade on a utility knife. It cut like butter, almost too easy I had to be careful not to cut to far.

Removing the small amount weatherstripping on the hood won't cause vibration. It's just for aerodynamics.

Doing both those things may have some small adverse impact on highway mpg due to the impact on aerodynamics.
 

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How did you open up (or shall I say remove) the fake venting in the fog light area?


Why not just use some orig factory Mazda fog shrouds instead, as utilized in the above Sky-D racing cars...

The round fog lens "vent" looks clean and legit looking...true molded cold air scoops for the lower bumper/airdam corners, and its only cost me $15+/side.
 

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If you're going to take in air down that low make darn sure you figure out how to prevent inundation of the intake getting into the actual engine intake pipe (e.g. someone nails a big "puddle" in front of you and throws a solid wall of water at that intake area and it gets through the air filter element, or if you go through water of any material depth.)

If you don't and the engine manages to swallow any of that it's done; ANY amount of liquid water that gets through will hydrolock the engine instantly. This can be defended against successfully but you need to pay attention to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Because the factory non-fog light louvered housing are free if you have a touring or sport that came with them, and look even more "clean and legit" than either a fog light housing minus a fog light or the non-fog-light housing with their fake plugged louvers, that's why. I feel dumber for even justifying that.


Still, it's good to show those that have a GT and don't care more about the fog lights than airflow they can get airflow through their too with that mod, so thanks for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you're going to take in air down that low make darn sure you figure out how to prevent inundation of the intake getting into the actual engine intake pipe (e.g. someone nails a big "puddle" in front of you and throws a solid wall of water at that intake area and it gets through the air filter element, or if you go through water of any material depth.)

If you don't and the engine manages to swallow any of that it's done; ANY amount of liquid water that gets through will hydrolock the engine instantly. This can be defended against successfully but you need to pay attention to it.
This could be a real problem if you have a Cold Air Intake where the filter is right behind the fog light housing, and don't use a hydro shield like Injen provides.


The Short Ram Intakes are up and over from the housing by a couple feet as you can see in my photos in the opening post so it should not be an issue for them.
 

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Yeah for that...well, as a suggestion. It's an easy snap off/snap on and vise versa reversible mod, for instant cold air. Still clean and legit looking to me (less "damage") than starting to permanently vandalize anything on my car, that I can think of (cutting, etc), just because either I can, compulsive or just plain desperate....about the possible inundation, thru the fog vent holes..now that has to be prevented. I'd install some sort of hydra mesh/waterproof but breathable screen behind the hole, installed in a way just enough to hinder and break any forceful direction of water, from getting in...or some improvised bent/elbow duct, installed behind the fog vent hole. The duct outlet directed towards the outer, bumper side or downward, just enough to disrupt forceful inundation...somewhat similar to a venting improvisation, done for added front brake cooling, via fog lens holes (read the idea, from a certain Miata forum).

Btw, I have the nifty LED DRLs with fog lights mod installed (non-GT, Touring)..so I could do this (still have the OEM fog lens shrouds boxed, as spares) route, if needed be.
 

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AEM makes a water repellent screen to cover your filter but it wont prevent anything if your filter is submerged in water.. to prevent hydro-lock from submersion i would recommend purchasing an air bypass valve. AEM makes these also...

AEM Air Bypass Valve for Cold Air Intakes - Prevents Hydro-lock
AEM Releases Six DryFlow Pre-Filter Wraps

as far as the Corksport or JBR sri intakes go.. since they do not come with a box and youd have to fabricate one yourself. it may save you alot of time and effort to just go ahead and buy the Injen SP intake for the 14-15 mazda6.. only ~$250 and its a legitimate cold air intake when you pair it with an empty fog light bezel or cutting the fake ones..

Injen® - Mazda 6 2014-2015 SP Series Cold Air Intake System
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The SRI is never going to get hydrolocked by driving through the rain. It's not in the path of being splashed by rain. Of course it's easy for me to be cocky about it since I've only had to use my windshield wipers once since I bought the car over a year ago. but if your nervous about it you could buy the watershield. If your SRI got submerged that you mean you've got even bigger problems than a hydro-locked engine.


With the sound and pull of the SRI at 6k rpms I couldn't imagine going with a CAI. The cold air box and an ecu tune eliminate most of the negatives associated with SRIs and REALLY accentuates the positives.


If you go with the CAI it ain't t cold air unless you open up the foglight. And really, the engine bay is only 2 feet high, is the air really much cooler down there in the same sealed off space than up near the SRI or stock location. Whatever amount it is cooler is offset by the fact that the air closer to the pavement is hotter than the air several feet off the ground due to the sunlights radiation heating up the pavement which convects into the air directly above it. So an SRI or stock air box sucking air from only the outside, as high up as much as possible (by modifying the area around the headlight and hood) is the coolest intake setup there is.


And then there's throttle response...
 

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So this doesn't fit? :\
nope, its made for the previous gen 3 with the sky G. However, CS does have plans to make a box for the current gen 3, so if enough of us contact them about a box for the 6 (I have suggested it to them a few times), we might end up getting one some time in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just a final follow up on this mod. I did drive through a monsoon at 60+ mph to the point the car wanted to hydrople on my relatively new tires. When I got home I popped the hood and checked the filter right away and it was dry as a bone. I was expecting it to not be wet, but there was no sign of water in the box at all, not even damp.

So SRIs with a cold air box setup open down at the foglight location and opened up seals over the headlight still do not not have any moisture ingestion issues.
 
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