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Any recommendations for pads and rotors?

I know about Rockauto, but I don't want to wait for shipping. you think options from o_reily, autozone or Advance Auto parts are good?
 

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Any recommendations for pads and rotors?

I know about Rockauto, but I don't want to wait for shipping. you think options from o_reily, autozone or Advance Auto parts are good?
From furiousbob:

1) Set of 4 rotors - any combination of slotted/drilled/dimple-drilled/blank - $300
2) Set of 4 rotors + set of 4 Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic Pads - $360

I just bought these and the "For Sale" Thread has lots of positive feedback about them.
 

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Mr. MURPHY law followed me home today. Everything was going great until my front passenger caliper popped! Yeah, put the rear rotors on the front. Who here do i mail my man card to?
 

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Fixing broken images on this write-up.

From OP, @Mazderati;4393978

Al right folks this is a very basic DIY. How to change your pads and rotors on 2014+ Mazda6. Full disclaimer: I am not a mechanic and not responsible for you breaking anything including yourself. Ok let's proceed.

Tools you'll need:

Common Sense
PB Blaster
14mm and 17mm sockets and wrenches
C-clamp or other device to reset the caliper
brake pads and rotors.

Use PB blaster on the Caliper Bracket bolts the night before if you plan to replace rotors. Do not drive after you've applied the PB blaster as some will get on the rotor you will be replacing. Once you have installed the new rotor you'll be good.

Start by jacking your car up and removing the wheels. Be sure to support the car correctly. (As suggested by Nihilus: correct support of your vehicle includes using jackstands to support the vehicle as well as chocks to keep it from rolling...be smart about this!)

Tire off and car in the air:



Open up the brake fluid cap and set aside, you may want to put some towels down around the reservoir:



Next we're going to remove the following bolts:
  • If you're only doing pads remove the bolts with the red dots (14mm)
  • If you're doing rotors as well loosen the bolts with the green dots (17mm) after you've removed the caliper


Once the caliper is off rest it on something as you do not want to strain the brake line which is connected:



Now you're going to re-expand you brakes, I use a c-clamp and the prior pad. Put the old pad against the cylinder and use the c-clamp to reset brake piston:



If you're doing pads you install the new pads and hardware and put everything back together. It's the same process on the other side. Once you have replaced the pads on both sides put the brake fluid cap back on. The brakes will be quite spongy at first so pump a couple of times prior to moving. Then bed your brakes as called for by your manufacturer.

If you're replacing you rotors as well continue below:

Remove the caliper bracket:



Pic of everything minus the rotor removed (notice no screw holding the rotor in place as in other cars) to get the rotor off just pull it towards you:



Everything removed just the hub:



Now slide the rotor back on and begin bolting the caliper bracket back on (17mm):



Install new pads w/ hardware:



Now install caliper (14mm) and tighten everything up:



Put your wheel back on and rinse and repeat on the other side.
Once you have replaced the pads and rotors on both sides put the brake fluid cap back on. The brakes will be quite spongy at first so pump a couple of times prior to moving. Then bed your brakes as called for by your manufacturer.

Hope this helps someone out!
 

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"to get the rotor off just pull it towards you" LOL. If it were that simple. Any tips on removing stuck rotors? I've been pounding with a hammer w/ no luck. Just sprayed PB into the lug bolt spaces hoping it'll spread around inside.

2014.
 

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I don't remember if there is a screw..... but if there is you have to remove it, obviously. If no screw then if you live in a rust belt state the rotors can be a bit of fun to get loose.

Just be careful not to whack the tone ring for the ABS; I've not had a LOT of trouble getting rotors off in the past even when I lived up north. A maul is helpful (it should not take much "persuasion" with one.)

Make sure you clean up the flange with a wire wheel before mounting the new rotor so the mating surface is completely clean.
 

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Persistence paid off. Sprayed more PB behind the rotor and more hammer time. I wire brushed and cleaned it off real perty and coated with Fluidfilm.
Maine salt. Love it.
 

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For rotor removal off the hub I use the "ears" on the upright (that hold the caliper bracket), some thru-passing bolts (ea. w/ 2 nuts), and some flatbar against the rotor so the bolt-ends bear against IT... not the rotor... and then I progressively crank the nuts. Always works for me (w/ penetrating oil)... no beating the rotor & no consequent risk of brinelling the wheel bearings.
 

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The designated lift points are the factory recommendations. It depends on what I'm doing.

The front and fear center points are very hard to get a jack on, especially the front one. If I don't need to work on the suspension then I usually lift on the side rail locations marked (real easy on this car since the double-dimple on the side rail is very easy to find) using a slotted hockey puck on the jack, and for the front I place stands under the rear lower control arm mount, which is extremely beefy. This of course doesn't work if you're doing something like replacing the control arm bushings! :)

I have notched jackstand covers that allow me to use the rail points for support; the issue becomes lifting if you do that. An alternative is something like this which allows lifting and support in the same place; I don't own these but am contemplating buying a set:

https://safejacks.com/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit
 

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I had warped the rotors-didn't know which--last week slamming on the brakes to avoid hitting a deer. I replaced the rear, being cheaper and them being in poorer condition due to the parking brake seizing issue a while back, and it turns out my guess was correct. All better!
 
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