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Please note this write-up is in reference to a Mazda3, not a 6., the biggest difference for most, is the location of the AC pump on the Mazda3 being below the engine, and needing to be pulled out of the way. i don't know if the later 6i's went with the same thing, but the older ones (like mine) did not. in any case, if the pump in on top, you don't have to worry about it. i've done 2 of these on the 6 and 2 on 3's, they are pretty straight forward.

one last tip, below is a picture of someone holding the pan after it is removed. if you note where the dip stick goes into the pan, to the left of that in the pic you will notice a flat spot in the casting, I have used a pry bar in that area to help free the pan initially.


DIY pulled from M3F



Balance Shaft Removal Kit Install

Required Tools Required Materials:6 Quarts Oil (I suggest Amsoil or Motul)
3000+lb. Floor Jack or Ramps Motorcraft FL-910 Oil Filter
(2) Drain Pans Purolator PL15505 Oil Filter
Oil Filter Wrench Permatex Ultra-Grey Silicone Gasket Maker or Victor razin
Gasket Scraper
Ratchet(s)
6" Extension
8mm Socket (Deep)
10mm Socket
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
18mm Socket
21mm Socket
Beer, good friends and time :D

A small word before starting
If you are the average guy how knows about the engine a bit but never worked on a engine forget it its freaking complicated, if will do the mod I will worn you now if you will do it in the garage while lying on the back its going to be difficult and you will taste some oil, dirt will fell in your eyes and your hair you contain oil … me I think I was lucky and I was crazy when I made the decision
I find bsd very very very very complicated and not for the week of heart

Ok lets start

If you want to fell the difference between the before and the after BSD i recommend you NOT to reset the ECU.


1. I used one of those to jack up my car so i can work underneath it


2.Remove splash shield 6x12mm screws– No need for pictures and explanation here

3.Drain oil 1x17mm screw – place drain pain under the oil pan and remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil. Let drain completely. Replace plug and tighten. Remove drain pan from work area. A small advice if you have run the car before the install let the engine cool down or you will get burn from the hot oil.

4.Unbolt A/C Protector and A/C Compressor and rest it on a jack, or leave it hanging. 3 nuts 12mm for the metal plate that protects the compressor and 4 very long bolts 12mm for the ac compressor


5.Unbolt and remove oil pan. I have attached a schematic of the oil pan and the bolts disconnect the bolts in REVERS ORDER from 13 to 1. All the screws that go vertically are 10mm the 3 screws that go horizontally into the tranny are 17mm, and the 4 screws that are on the passenger and go horizontally are 8mm screws



Now after removing the screws right next to the oil filter there was a small gap put a flathead screw driver and pry the oil pan off


6.With the oil pan removed, remove the 2 long screws that hold the oil pickup, the black tube and remove the oil pickup. Put the pickup aside in and keep it clean


7.Remove 4x10mm bolts that hold the balance shaft assembly from the block. Use caution as the balance shaft assembly is heavy (18lbs, 8.1 kg) if you do the operation on the back trust me that thing is freaking heavy. Set the assembly aside. A lot oil will spill when you take out the shaft from the hole that the kit will go on. If you place the bsd right under the car you will see that one of the legs (lack of a better word) that where attaching the balance shaft on the block a small secondary hole that was the oil feed for the balance shaft now look on the block you will see the extra hole right in front of the oil filter.


8.Place Cosworth Balance Shaft delete plate with O-ringed bung into the oil supply port used by the balance shaft assembly.

Before the cosworth


After the cosworth



9.Use a small amount of Red Loctite on the attachment bolt and secure the plate to the block. The bolt should be torqued to 20ft/lbs.

10.Reinstall the oil pick-up tube and torque 8-10ft/lbs. WARrniNG I scraped a screw here don’t use more power then brain the screw will broke. I had a nice neighbor that made me a custom screw.

11.Use the Gasket Scraper (a razor blade will do in a pinch) to remove any old sealant from the block and oil pan mating surfaces. A trick that my father teach me (after giving me the shit for opening the engine :D) put some gasoline on the old sealant it works perfectly the old sealant just peeled off by its self. Use a clean rag to remove any oil from the mating surfaces on the oil pan.

12.Sparingly apply Ultra-Grey Silicone to the oil pan sealing surfaces. The best method is to smear the silicone across the surface evenly with your finger. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF SILICONE! Excess will simply squeeze out when the pan is tightened and make a mess! Excess inside the oil pan can get loose and clog the pickup or get caught in moving parts.
The underlined text is a copy from marcymotorsports install I call it bs
From the service manual fallow the line of the oil pan and put the silicon gasket the silicon line has to be min 2.2mm and max 3.5mm don’t use the finger to spread the silicon just by tightening the oil pan the silicon will spread out.
BEFORE APLYNG THE GASKET DO A TEST FIT FOR THE INSTALL OF THE OIL PAN IN MY CASE I REMOVED THE GUN PIECE THAT ATACHES THE TRANNY TO THE REAR ENGINE MOUNT 3X19MM SCREW cause was in the way. IF EVERIGHING OK TRY AGAIN once the silicon is on the oil pan you have to be fast and there is no second try you miss you have to redo the gasket.

13.Reinstall oil pan. Tighten bolts in the following order at 12-16ft/lbs

14.Place a drain pan under the oil filter. Remove the old filter and install the new one.

15.Pour 3 quarts of oil into the engine. Check for leaks. Add 2 additional quarts if there are no leaks.

16.Reinstall A/C Compressor and protector at 13-19ft/lbs.

17.Reinstall splash shield 6x12mm.

18.Go take a shower, whatever just let the car and silicon dry for a least 1 h

19.Start the engine but don’t rev-it let it warm completely and the stop the engine

20.check for oil leaks under the car….none then go zoom zoom

Hope this helps, special thnx to Philidonis, Brian aka MrTea, Flo a friend of mine, theBeansolider, Goldfish and to my father who even if he was very pissed off on me cause I opened the engine he helped me Thank you.
 

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For those wondering what the balance shaft is, and didn't see the several other posts covering the topic.

Mazda (and other Manufacturers) use balance shafts on engines to help reduce/remove NVH. it's an assembly that is mounted to the crank of the engine via gears that rotates "opposite" the crank. It's counterrotation is designed to offset any harmonic/vibration that is a natural occurance in an engine.

being a family car, keeping it smooth and quiet is a big thing, but for those looking for performance, we put louder exhaust, lower/firmer springs on....we just want as much power as we can. The Balance shaft (BS) is not to be confused with a harmonic balancer which aids to the life of the engine. The Duratec 2.3 in the Ranger does not use a balance shaft, as softer engine mounts and being a truck don't have the need for less NVH, the slightly smaller engine in the Mazda3i (the budget banger) and Miata (sporty) do not have balance shaft either.

With that being said, this is all my words, my interpritation. I have not had a balance shaft in the car for over 4 years, when performance Durtec engines are build for the Focus and Mazda (world challenge type cars), the BS is left out of the build. BUT, with this said, no one knows the long term effects of this mod, nothing can ever be guaranteed unfortunately. This mod is also 99% NOT reverseable, as getting the gears in the exact spot as when they were removed is very ulikely...so you have to live with it.

in general, the BS assembly is roughly 18lbs, and of that, about 6 (as we are told) is rotating mass. so gains can be seen as similar to a lightened fly/clutch assembly in, smoother revs, quicker response and the feel of a bit more power down low as the engine is not trying as hard to get things moving.

...did my best, hope that answers most questions
 

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BEER my friend.. BEER (not bear(s) lol).

Great ides for all these DIY's .. your going to sticky them right?
 

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where's it say bear? i didn't right (joke) this thing, i just copied it.

got it!

and i'm going to sticky it right now, but figured i'd write a quick "wtf a bsd is" post if people don't look around. i'm horrible with spelling on the fly, so i'm sure there will be plenty of mistakes in that one if you want to look. And "the" always comes out "teh" when i type fast....so that's another one to expect.
 

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QUOTE (MrTea @ Jun 5 2009, 10:28 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1569388
where's it say bear? i didn't right (joke) this thing, i just copied it.

got it!

and i'm going to sticky it right now, but figured i'd write a quick "wtf a bsd is" post if people don't look around. i'm horrible with spelling on the fly, so i'm sure there will be plenty of mistakes in that one if you want to look. And "the" always comes out "teh" when i type fast....so that's another one to expect.[/b]

Ya dont say? (write) lol

Alright, ill stop...haha. Feel free to delete.
 

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This mod is also 99% NOT reverseable, as getting the gears in the exact spot as when they were removed is very ulikely...so you have to live with it.

...did my best, hope that answers most questions
Wait... what? So if I removed my BS to do a crank kit or replace rod bearings, I pretty much have no choice but to leave the BS out?
 

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Unless you want to go through the hassle of timing the BS you can reinstall. I don't know of many that rebuild and put it back. Most just delete it.
RAWR MORE POWAH!

LOL, oh well. I never had a I4 that had one anyways. Hopefully it is not noticeable. I wasn't really looking to gain any speed, only MPG or slight modifcations. More HP typically means less MPG.

But I am sure the mod bug will get to me soon enough, and the next thing I know I will be doing other things.

The link for the kit stuff suffers from the broken. Any ideas where I can get one quick? IIRC, another guide basically indicated it was just a specific bolt.
 

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Yeah after I did mine i dont remember any increase but I also did my removal with all three motor mounts 88 duro but there has been a smile on my face ever since.
 

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For those wondering what the balance shaft is, and didn't see the several other posts covering the topic.

Mazda (and other Manufacturers) use balance shafts on engines to help reduce/remove NVH. it's an assembly that is mounted to the crank of the engine via gears that rotates "opposite" the crank. It's counterrotation is designed to offset any harmonic/vibration that is a natural occurance in an engine.

being a family car, keeping it smooth and quiet is a big thing, but for those looking for performance, we put louder exhaust, lower/firmer springs on....we just want as much power as we can. The Balance shaft (BS) is not to be confused with a harmonic balancer which aids to the life of the engine. The Duratec 2.3 in the Ranger does not use a balance shaft, as softer engine mounts and being a truck don't have the need for less NVH, the slightly smaller engine in the Mazda3i (the budget banger) and Miata (sporty) do not have balance shaft either.

With that being said, this is all my words, my interpritation. I have not had a balance shaft in the car for over 4 years, when performance Durtec engines are build for the Focus and Mazda (world challenge type cars), the BS is left out of the build. BUT, with this said, no one knows the long term effects of this mod, nothing can ever be guaranteed unfortunately. This mod is also 99% NOT reverseable, as getting the gears in the exact spot as when they were removed is very ulikely...so you have to live with it.

in general, the BS assembly is roughly 18lbs, and of that, about 6 (as we are told) is rotating mass. so gains can be seen as similar to a lightened fly/clutch assembly in, smoother revs, quicker response and the feel of a bit more power down low as the engine is not trying as hard to get things moving.

...did my best, hope that answers most questions
So basically if u want more aggressive feel do the BS DELETE? I HAVE TO CHANFE MY BEARINGS SO IT HAS TO COME OFF ANYWAY. IT CANT BE PUT BACK ON ONCE RAKEN OFF??
 

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One of the premier outfits in the US that deals with the Mitsubishi Evolutions - www.jackstransmissions.com used-to recommend this for Evo's. They are now totally against it. They have a Technical Articles section detailing why. The gist of it is that among other ills removal causes - on the Mitsu 4G63 it causes secondary flywheel vibes which result in an absence of full clutch dis-engagement at higher rpms... and that knackers the synchro's / causes a "grind" on shifting gears.

Me, fundamentally, I'd never remove the bal. shaft unit. Balance shafts turn a normally resonance-prone 4 cyl car into a pleasant, smooth car.
 
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