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273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As an owner of a 2006 Mazda6, I always felt a bit cheated that we didn't get the auto up/down feature for the rear windows that the Mazdaspeed6 had. I appreciate having auto up and down in my two front windows, but always kinda' wished for the same function in the rear windows.

Now I am well aware that there are several aftermarket alarm components that will accomplish the same basic task. But I wanted the ability to roll my windows down from my factory alarm "unlock" button as well as the ability to roll my windows up and down from the driver's side key cylinder.

A few years back I asked around on this board and a few other about adding this feature. Much to my dismay, the general consensus was..."It can't be done". Well after recently acquiring a printed copy of the 2006 Mazda6/Speed6 wiring diagram..I beg to differ, and can proudly say "MISSION ACCOMPLISHED".

I will admit this project is a bit involded, as it requires removing the front driver and two rear door panels. Having some basic some basic electrical knowledge/skills will help, but I've done all the hard work here. I spent between 4-6 hours pouring over the Mazda6 wiring diagram figuring out what needed to happen for this to work. But once you understand the basic power window wiring circuit, it's pretty straightforward. You'll need to be comfortable splicing wires, using a multimeter, and using a pair of pliers and a screwdriver. Other than that, it's actually a fundamentally a pretty simple just involves a fair amount of wiring.

For those who wish to see what I was working from, here's the window wiring diagram from the 2006 Mazda6/Speed6 wiring diagram. This illustrates the basic wiring we'll be looking at for this project.

Here's the diagram showing the wiring in the plugs at the door jams. wiring plugs.pdf

The driver's window switch harness needs to have pretty much every wire moved, and we'll be splicing a few wires in the driver's door. Thankfully, all the wires we need to make this happen are in the door we won't need to run any new wires at all. Another bit of good news is that the front passenger door motor and switch are fully compatible with the Speed6 master switch, and don't need to be touched at all. Beyond the rewiring the driver's master's just a matter of swapping out 2 power window switches, replacing two power window motors, and swapping in a window switch/window motor plug from "donor harness" into the existing rear door harnesses, and finally splicing 4 wires per rear door.

As with all "wicked cool" mods, it's gonna' cost you to play with the big boys. Going with NEW OEM/3rd party parts, you're looking at about $475 in parts to make this work. If you're resourceful, these parts can be found used at junkyards/auto part recyclers/eBay for CONSIDERABLY LESS. As a point of reference, my own out of pocket expense for this project was under $200.

Now being the self-proclaimed "Godfather" of this mod, I was at a distinct advantage. I knew exactly what parts I needed and patiently waited for the required parts to surface.

I've seen the Speed6 rear window switches on eBay for under $35..and I've even seen the driver side "master switch" for around $50. Here's another hint: Keep your eye out for Mazdaspeed 6 power window door trim pieces on eBay, as often times the power window switches are included. If there's ever a question, reference the part numbers listed below..and remember the power window switches you're looking for are WHITE (REAR DRIVER) AND BROWN (REAR PASSENGER).

Alright, enough blabbering...let's get to work:


pliers OR wire cutter/stripper
digital mutlimeter with DC voltage readout and continuity testing feature (for troubleshooting only)
small "jewelers style" flathead screwdriver (for removing harness pins/connectors)
10mm socket (to remove rear door bolts behind door handles/window motor bolts)
3M "Quick Connect" wire taps (if desired)
electrical tape
Torx #20 bit driver (for swapping door switches)
various sized Phillips screwdrivers (removing door panels and window motor bolts)

zip ties (securing wiring harnesses)


The most important piece needed is the Mazdaspeed6 driver's side power window/mirror control module:

Mazda P/N: GP9A66350
List Price:$152
$105 (

Yes, this part is a bit pricey, but you must understand that without the Speed6 master switch, you can't get auto up/down to work for the rear windows.

Notice the "missing pins" in the secondary connector on the underside of the switch. On a "plain Jane" Mazda6 master window switch, those pins are present and operate part of the driver's window circuit. We will be splicing those wires into our "revised" driver's switch harness to later on.

And finally, here's a picture of the Speed6 master switch wired up and fully operational:

(2) Mazdaspeed auto up/down switches (for the rear doors).
Mazda P/N: GP9G66380 (rear passenger)
LIST PRICE:$117.18
$80.84 (

Mazda P/N: GP9F66380 (rear driver)
LIST PRICE: $121.48

$83.80 (

These are the second most important parts for getting this project off the ground. The rear driver switch is WHITE and the rear passenger switch is BROWN. Sadly, the standard Mazda6 front passenger auto up/down switch P/N: GP7A66370C ($51) WILL NOT work in the rear doors, as it lacks the appropriate logic circuitry. It's the logic circuitry inside the switches that is programmed to activate to corresponding switch in the driver's door controls.

You'll also need:

(2) 6-pin Mazda window motors...for the rear doors
Mazda P/N: G22C5858XF (rear driver)
$124.34 (

Mazda P/N: GJ6A5958XF (rear passenger)

$128.36 (

PLEASE NOTE: The standard rear 2-pin "DUMB" motors WILL NOT WORK, as they lack the "HALL EFFECT SWITCH" and other "smart functions" that allow for the auto up/down feature.
If the Mazda OEM motors are too rich for your blood another good choice are Dorman part #'s 742-801 and 742-802. Both are 6-pin motors and can be had for under $70 shipped (


If you can find a 2006 or newer Mazda6 in a junkyard, BOTH the front window motors are 6 pin versions and will work for this project. The front driver's side motor can be swapped to work in the rear passenger door, and the front passenger door motor can be swapped to the rear driver's side door. Thankfully, I managed to snag a pair of these beauties for $30 each at a local junkyard.

(2) passenger FRONT passenger wiring harnesses
Mazda P/N: GR6A67200C

$24.93 (

Unfortunately, the regular Mazda6 rear door harnesses use a 5 pin connector for the rear door window switches and only have two wires for the window motors...making them totally useless for this project. The Speed6 rear window switches need a 12 pin connector to operate. Six pins control the window motor, and the remaining 4 are wired back to the driver's master control switch for power and logic communications. Two pins in the 12-pin switch are unused.

Now you COULD use a pair of MS6 REAR HARNESSES, but they are RIDICULOUSLY EXPENSIVE...($195 LIST for the rear driver's side harness and $140 LIST for the rear passenger door harness). Truth be told, we only need the 12 pin connector and 6 pin window motor connector from the "donor" the $36 front passenger harnesses are all that is needed.

So there's the basic part list. I recommend checking out (Cranston, RI) as well as (Akron, OH) for the power window switches and door harnesses. Both retailers offer 30% off of Mazda list prices on parts, and both sites are usually within a few dollars of eachother. eBay or your local junkyard would be a good place to track down the 6-pin window motors, and if you're patient the rear window switches. As I mentioned above, the Dorman 742-801 and 742-802 motors are a good choice as well, and are under $70 shipped from Amazon.

2018 Mazda6 GT Reserve
8,606 Posts

Add some pics when you do the install, and this thread may get stickied for your efforts.

273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)

Add some pics when you do the install, and this thread may get stickied for your efforts.
A full "walk-through" is coming soon as I receive my 2 front passenger "donor" harnesses.

Well it looks like my much needed door harnesses won't be in my hands until early next week sometime. In the meantime, it's given me so spare time to start documenting this project.

Once I finish up, and have this project behind me, I'd be happy to share my expertise with fellow Gen 1.5 Mazda6 owners who want to undertake this project. Depending on the interest level, maybe someone with a garage could sponsor a "window mod" day of sorts.

I don't have a garage myself, but as the self-proclaimed "Godfather" of this project, I've gotten very good at taking door panels apart, rewiring the door harnesses and splicing wires. I also possess the "Holy Grail": a bound copy of the Speed6/Mazda6 wiring diagram that made this all possible.

On a side note, I actually have a full "spare" set of all three window switches needed for this project...along with the Speed6 window switch and door pull trim pieces. They will likely be posted in the "FOR SALE" forums once this project is complete.


I'm now 100% done wiring the driver's master switch plug, I've replaced all the motors, and the Speed6 master window switch is in and working for the front two windows.

The rear doors just require swapping out window motors and swapping the existing 5-pin switch/2 pin motor plugs and replacing them with the 12 pin switch/6 pin motor plugs from the "donor" harnesses. Lastly, we'll need to splice 4 wires from the new window switch wiring into the existing power window wiring and splicing into the ground for the power lock in each door.

~ Justin

273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)


I managed to finish the last of the wiring for the rear doors this afternoon/early evening. This project is now 100% COMPLETE and my car is back in one piece.

Everything works PERFECTLY. The rear window auto up/down functions work from the master switch as well as the rear door switches. All four windows roll down automatically after holding down the unlock button on the keyless entry remote, and all four windows can be rolled up and down manually from the driver's side key cylinder.

I'm glad to have this mod done, and have to say I'm beyond satisfied with the end results. I hope that many fellow 2006-2008 Mazda6 owners step up to the plate and complete this mod for themselves.


Here's a YouTube video I uploaded demonstrating the completed mod in operation:


I will post the last of the pics and steps for the rear door wiring sometime tomorrow. ***

~ Justin

4,995 Posts
Very interested.

Also, Dropbox FTW!
FYI if you are not yet aware... If you put your pictures in the "Public" folder (also works in any subfolder within Public) you can right-click the file and get public link.. then use the "add image" button when writing/editing a post here and paste in that url.. that will put your images in the post without others having to click a link to see pictures.

273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Driver's master switch wiring (PART 1)...


The wiring diagram and illustrations/pictures below represent this project completed in a North American (US/Canadian) 2006 Mazda6. Vehicles in other countries/model years MAY have different wiring colors and positions. Therefore you should consult a wiring diagram specific to your model, before attempting this modification.

I made every attempt to clearly and concisely illustrate and document the wiring changes needed to complete this modification. I have included PDFs of the wiring diagram I used to construct this "HOW TO". COMMON SENSE dictates you should double check both your own work as well as my procedure against the Mazda6 wiring diagram.

Undertaking this project is at your own risk, and by doing so you assume all risks and relieve me of any liability for any errors and/or omissions. As stated above, you should verify ALL electrical connections against the wiring diagram included above. Failure to do so BEFORE reapplying power to the power window circuit POWER may result in damage to BODY CONTROL MODULES, MOTORS, RELAYS, SWITCHES, ETC.

As with any electrical project, it's advised to disconnect the positive terminal from your care battery before starting this project. Three of the wires in this "HOW TO" have a direct connection to the car battery, and are therefore LIVE at all times, even without the key in the ignition. So be safe, and disconnect your battery.

Alright, with all the LEGALESE BS out of the way, let's get down to business...DRUMROLL PLEASE...!!!

For starters, I would suggest you read through this guide fully and familiarize yourself with the steps required for this project before you start cutting wires. Once you've cut and spliced your first wire, it's pretty hard to turn back. I suppose you COULD buy a new driver's door harness, but that would just be silly..and against EVERYTHING I started to thread to accomplish.


You will lose operation of ALL of your power windows as soon as you start rewiring your driver's master switch. With that said, I would recommend rolling the windows down to remove your door panels and then rolling your windows back up. Full operation of your windows and mirrors will not be restored until all of the wiring portion of this guide is completed and all the new switches and window motors are in place.

Actually, that's only half true. You will regain control of your front windows as soon as you complete the 2 part "MASTER SWITCH WIRING" portion of this guide.

Rear window operation however, will require additional wiring and parts replacement.


Be sure to gather all the required tools and have ALL the necessary parts required BEFORE starting this project. A complete list of the required parts (along with Mazda parts #s), suggested tools, as well as recommended sources for the Mazda OEM parts needed can be found on the first page of this thread. I would recommend allowing yourself at least 4 hours of daylight to complete this project. It will likely take some people MUCH less times, but tis' better to have too much daylight than to find yourself at dusk approaching with a car with no power windows. I know much of this is just common sense, but unfortunately, common sense isn't all that common anymore.

One a scale of 1 to 10 difficulty wise, I'd rate this at about a 4. Honestly, it's just a bunch of rewiring, a dozen or so splices, and replacing 2 window motors and 3 power window switches. If you can operate a pair of wire cutters, a multimeter and a screwdriver, you can likely complete this mod without too much trouble. I've done my very best to fully document and photograph nearly every step of this project. In the event you have any questions or anything is unclear, feel free to reach out to myself or any of the other individuals on this forum for more assistance.

So let's start with some basics here:

I'm lucky enough to have a SPARE front driver's harness which I'll be using to illustrate some portions of this project. Some elements of this project are better illustrated with a test harness, while others are best seen "on vehicle". For those reasons, you will see a combination of "test harness" and "on vehicle" photos mixed throughout this tutorial.



To begin this project, you will need to remove the front driver and front and rear passenger interior door panels. A guide to complete this task can be found here:

The passenger rear doors are similar, but you must also remove the grab handle trim piece and remove the (2) 13mm bolts located within.

DIY: Door panel removal ('06-'08)

You will also need to disconnect the power window switches from the door harness from all 3 doors (front driver and both rear doors) as well as disconnect the TWO PIN wiring plug from the (2) REAR power window motors, as both REAR MOTORS will be replaced in a later step.

For starters, I will be referring to various wires by color and pin/slot position. Pin/slot positions are counted left to right, top to bottom within the various wiring harnesses/connectors. Proper orientation for slot/pin positions is from the WIRE SIDE..NOT THE PIN SIDE. If there's a push tab or clip, it will generally be located at the "12 o'clock" position.

If you overlook this important step, you will end up wiring everything backwards and either popping fuses, burning out window motors, Body Control Modules, or a set of VERY EXPENSIVE power window switches.






Whenever possible, I have photographed the wiring plug in proper orientation, or indicated otherwise. Wiring colors are either a SOLID COLOR or a SOLID COLOR WITH A STRIPE. For example an ORANGE wire is SOLID ORANGE, whereas a RED/YELLOW wire is a RED WIRE with a narrow YELLOW STRIPE.

First's your driver's side master switch wiring SHOULD look in it's "virgin state". Take careful note of the wire colors, positions within the harness as well as the number of wires in the harness.

If your driver's master switch harness differs at all from what you see pictured BELOW, STOP IMMEDIATELY and ask for assistance.


And here's a BOTTOM VIEW of driver's harness.

NOTE: The wiring plug was TURNED OVER...and therefore the WIRING ORDER HAS BEEN REVERSED going from left to right...


Master Connector:

Here's a look at SUB-CONNECTOR #2. These four wires will need to be spliced into and have jumper wires inserted into the four empty slots listed below. But for now, set this connector aside.

Now back to the MAIN DRIVER HARNESS PLUG. We need to remove all the wires from this harness EXCEPT the SOLID ORANGE WIRE (PIN 6) and the RED/YELLOW WIRE (PIN 13) on the plug for the driver's side window motor.

To remove the pins, insert a small "jeweler's style" flat blade screwdriver into the pin side of the harness and gently pry the small white plastic retaining clip away from the metal pin and slide the wire out of the harness. It may take a practice tries to complete this step as the clips are VERY SMALL.


Loosely tape these wires together with electrical tape to keep them isolated from the rest of the wires. These wires feed the rear doors and will need to be SPLICED into wires in the harness in a later step.

You should now have something looking like this:

Now move the RED/YELLOW WIRE from PIN 13 to PIN 1...resulting in this:

IMPORTANT NOTE: This RED/YELLOW wire is a LIVE, UNSWITCHED 12V FEED from the battery. If you were a BAD MONKEY and didn't disconnect your positive battery terminal, you could get a little buzz from this wire if you provide it a path to ground.

Now it's time to start reinserting wires in their correct NEW POSITIONS.

- insert BLACK/YELLOW wire into SLOT 7
- insert GREEN wire into SLOT 8
- insert RED wire into SLOT 14 ***(SEE NOTE BELOW)***
- insert LIGHT GREEN/RED wire into SLOT 3
- insert GREEN/YELLOW wire into SLOT 9
- insert GREEN/BLACK wire into SLOT 12
- insert GRAY wire into SLOT 2

Trace this wire back away from the driver's plug and be sure that this RED WIRE connects to SLOT 1 on the driver's window motor plug. There should be another SMALLER RED WIRE (SLOT 3) that runs from the window motor plug to SUBCONNECTOR #2. I believe I found one error in the Mazda wiring diagram. :)

You should now have a harness that looks like this:

You will see that you have 5 MISSING PINS.
per the wiring diagram illustration (0912-301) located on page 176 of the Mazda electrical wiring manual.

PIN 5, PIN 10, PIN 11 and PIN 13 will need to have jumper wires spliced from the 4 wires found in SUB-CONNECTOR #2 (PURPLE; RED; YELLOW ; and LIGHT GREEN/BLACK).

Now here's where the REAL fun begins. Remember the five wires you removed from the master harness earlier and taped off? (RED/YELLOW, WHITE/BLUE, RED/WHITE, YELLOW and BROWN)?

Cut off the square pins on the RED/YELLOW; WHITE/BLUE; RED/WHITE and YELLOW wires, but leave yourself 3-4 inches of wire on the end.

Leave the BROWN WIRE alone at this point, as we'll be splicing it into the harness differently a bit later.

Here's what your "PIGTAIL" JUMPER WIRES SHOULD look like:

Ignore the fact that this wire is BROWN.


we're going to be working with the brown wire a bit later

Once you've got your 4 "pigtail connectors cut, it's time to start splicing. Now in the interest of time I won't go over splicing methods. Some like to use tapping connectors, while others prefer to strip the wires, twist and tape, and some love to solder.

You pick your favorite method...and stick with it. For most of my connections I'll be using either RED or BLUE 3M crimp style "Quick Connects". They can be found at Wally World in the Automotive department for about $4 for a package of 16, which should be more than enough to complete this project.

Here's what you're looking for if you're not sure what I'm talking about.

Now let's move your attention to SUB-CONNECTOR #2.

Splice to PURPLE WIRE on SUB-CONNECTOR #2 to the RED/YELLOW PIGTAIL WIRE and then insert the plug end into SLOT 10 on the MASTER CONTROL PLUG.

The pic for this shot came out kinda' blurry, but by now you should follow what I'm saying.

Next splice the RED wire on SUB-CONNECTOR #2 to the WHITE/BLUE PIGTAIL WIRE and insert into SLOT 11.

Now connect the YELLOW WIRE on SUB-CONNECTOR #2 to the RED/WHITE PIGTAIL WIRE and insert into SLOT 5

Finally, connect splice LIGHT GREEN/BLACK WIRE on SUB-CONNECTOR #2 to the YELLOW PIGTAIL WIRE and insert into SLOT 13.

Once all your connections are made, you should end up with something looking like this.

Now as I stated above, I have the luxury of working with a spare driver's side harness here for the purpose of this tutorial. Truthfully, your connections SHOULD end up being an inch or two closer to the MASTER PLUG.

OK, we're in the HOME STRETCH here. Five more splices and we're DONE with the driver's door wiring.


273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)

Now turn your attention to the four wires we cut above to make the pigtail connectors. Using a quick connector or other method, splice the WHITE/LIGHT BLUE wire into the RED/YELLOW WIRE (SLOT 1).

Next, we need to join the BROWN and YELLOW WIRES together. Cut the SQUARE PLUG off of the BROWN WIRE, splice with the YELLOW WIRE and then splice the one combined wire into the LIGHT GREEN/RED (SLOT 3).

For this I like to expose a bit of wire on wire #1 several inches from the end...braid the bare end of wire #2 into wire #1...twist together and tape. If you use this method, be sure to cut off the extra insulation a the end of WIRE #1, otherwise your crimp connector will be biting into insulation and not the wire.

You COULD use (2) "Quick Connects" here, but it makes the resulting completed harness much larger and harder to work with.

Finally, with the wires braided and twisted together, wrap securely with electrical tape and splice to the LIGHT GREEN/RED WIRE (SLOT 3) using a "Quick Connect":

Follow the same same steps above combining, braiding and splicing the RED/WHITE and RED/YELLOW WIRES and splice into the GREEN/YELLOW WIRE (SLOT 9).

And with that, you have now completed all the wiring changes necessary for the driver's side. Now would be a good time to grab a beer, shot of Patron or your other favorite "adult beverage".

After double checking all your connections, plug the modified 14-pin connector into the Speed6 control switch. You can either plug the SUB-CONNECTOR #2 into the dummy slot under the switch (there are no pins) or you can tape the 4 pin plug to the rest of the wiring harness. Reinsert the window switch trim panel into the door and finish putting yrou driver's door back together. You can now reconnect your battery leads (which you disconnected back at step one like a "good monkey") and test your work.



As expected, you will need to reinitialize the auto up/down function for the two front doors. To do this simply roll your window down slightly..release the switch briefly and then roll it up fully and hold the switch until you hear the "motor" click twice. Release the switch and you should have restored the auto up/down function for both front doors.

If you wish, you can also test the operation of the two rear Speed6 window switches on the front passenger door. You will need to initialize the switch as you did above. Once that's done, try using the corresponding switch at the driver's master switch to roll the passenger window up and down. If you connected the rear passenger switch, then the rear passenger switch at the driver's door will roll the window up and down. Repeat the process with the rear driver switch.



As I eluded to earlier in this guide, all three of the Speed6 window switches are "special" in that they are programmed to work only in a specific door, or more accurately, they listen for a specific input signal. It's the "power window" control module signal (P/W CM), carried on the LIGHT GREEN/RED WIRE (PIN 3) that dictates which windows open or close from the driver's master switch. A second signal from the CONJUNCTION CIRCUIT, supplied by the GREEN/YELLOW WIRE (PIN 9), works to feed a logic circuit in each of the three passenger window switches.

In the Speed6, window operation requires a 12 volt feed from the WHITE/BLUE WIRE but also 12 volts being fed through the CONJUNCTION CIRCUIT. With the driver's cutoff switch disabled, 12 volts is fed to each of door's CONJUNCTION CIRCUIT input and the switches are operational. With the cutoff switch enabled, the 12 volt feed to the CONJUNCTION CIRCUIT is cut, and the passenger switches are "dead".

The master switch in the "regular" 2006-2008 Mazda6 is VERY SIMILAR, but the P/W CM and CONJUNCTION CIRCUIT SIGNALS are only fed to the front passenger window. The rear wiring circuit relies on "DUMB" switches, and in the end it requires much more wiring.

For the rear doors, there's a separate "OPEN" and "CLOSE" switched ground wire that originates from the driver's door that goes to each rear door, along with a common WHITE/BLUE 12V feed. In the Mazda6, the 12V feed for the rear doors is fed THROUGH the driver's switch, and by hitting the driver's cutoff switch, you're effectively killing the 12V feed to the rear doors.

It was these two "OPEN" GROUND WIRES and two "CLOSE" GROUND WIRES plus the WHITE/BLUE wire which gave us our five "EXTRA" wires. At his point in the project the rear doors now have an un-switched 12 volt feed coming directly from the battery. This was accomplished by splicing the WHITE/BLUE wire into the RED/YELLOW wire (PIN 1).

The Speed6 master window switch eliminates the needs for separate OPEN/CLOSE GROUND WIRES, as this task is completed by the P/W CM signal. This allows us to use these two wires to feed the P/W CM and CONJUNCTION CIRCUIT signals to the rear doors.

The BROWN and YELLOW wires that formerly fed the REAR DOOR "OPEN" circuit were spliced together and now supply the P/W CM signal to the rear doors.

The RED/YELLOW and RED/WHITE wires that formerly fed the REAR "CLOSE" circuit were also spliced together and now supply the CONJUNCTION CIRCUIT 12V FEED to the rear doors.

So there you have it. That's how the the wiring works for this mod..and now it's time for me to take a break...

~ Justin


273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Wow man EXTREMELY thorough! You're making a fairly complicated re-wire into a very easy to understand (at least for me) mod, and I am really looking forward to doing this, as this was one of my first "wishes" when I bought the car.. :) Keep up the fantastic work!

Thanks for the props "Orange".

I'm glad someone can appreciate my thoroughness, but then again we're talking about a couple hundred bucks worth of parts here, so attention to detail is CRITICAL.

Honestly, I'm just happy to be able to give back to a community that has helped me out countless times over the years. Whether while wiring up my aftermarket HU to the steering switches, to doing a brake job/manual tranny flush..the knowledge and information on these forums is truly PRICELESS. I can't can count the number of hours, $$$, and most importantly frustration the various members here have saved me over the years.

So here's my "THANK YOU" to all of you and my "CONTRIBUTION" to this community. I'm happy to be a small part of what makes this forum so great, and I hope for "WELL EARNED" sticky once this is done and behind me.

Sadly, I'm still waiting on my "donor" harnesses, which has brought my project to a complete standstill. I've been without working rear windows for almost a week now, as my driver's door wiring is complete.

~ Justin

273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Well my "donor" harnesses FINALLY came in today...(CUE THE ANGEL'S SINGING IN HARMONY)

UPS was running about 3 hours earlier than they usually do. I guess that was THEIR birthday present to me. Now I can finally finish up this project and get the last part of the walk-through documented and photographed.


273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Rear doors (part 1): Plundering the donor harnesses

PLUNDERING THE DONOR HARNESSES: with your front passenger harnesses in hand, it's time to strip out the 6-pin motor plugs and the 12 pin window switch connectors from the rest of the unneeded wiring from the "donor" harness.

First off, we need to remove the electrical tape used to wrap the harness at the factory. To make this task easier. I recommend using a sharp pair of kitchen shears. I found it easy to simply insert one of the shear tips beneath the tape and push it gently forward cutting the tape. An X-Acto knife or utility knife would also work, but I don't find them as easy to control.

Regardless of your chosen method, work slowly and carefully. There are MANY small delicate wires in this harness, and you don't want to cut or nick them.

I would also recommend removing the zip tie fastener located between the window wiring and the door jamb connector. To do so, simply insert a small, jeweler's flat head screwdriver and pry the locking tab up. Then simply push the plastic strip back through the connector.

With the tape and zip connector remove, we now need to remove the four pins from the door jamb connector.

First remove the rubber boot covering the wire side of the connectors. Now from the PIN SIDE, we need to remove four pins that feed the window switches. As before, we will be using the jeweler's screwdriver to gently pry the locking tab away from the pin and then slide the wire out from the WIRE SIDE.

We only need to remove four wires from the door jamb connector: BLACK/YELLOW, RED/YELLOW, LIGHT GREEN/RED and GREEN/YELLOW.

Once you've removed all four pins from the door jamb connector, simply pull them carefully one by one back through the rubber "accordion" connector and towards the window switch plug. I didn't bother opening up the white plastic wire channel cover, as they wires were easy enough to work through without that step.

Once you've pulled the wires through you should have this:

The rest of the harness is unneeded, and can be thrown away, recycled or saved for another project. Sadly, we only needed the four pins and the two wiring connectors from this entire harness, but at least it was cheap enough.


For those ever considering adding power folding or LED mirrors, the extra pins for the power mirror connectors could be used to make your own plug and play harness. You also have power lock switch/module plugs as well as speaker/tweeter connectors that could prove equally as useful for future projects.

So that's it, your 6-pin window motor plugs and 12-pin window switch plugs are ready to be transplanted into your existing REAR DOOR HARNESSES.


First off, we need to remove the window switch trim from the read door panels. I'll be illustrating with the read driver panel, but the process is the same for the rear passenger door panel.

Looking from the underside of the door panel you will notice 6 clips securing the window switch trim to the door panel.

Gently squeeze the four tabs to the left of the window motor and push the tabs upward to release the trim piece.

Now we need to swap out the "dumb" rear switches" for the "smart" Mazdaspeed6 rear switches. On the US/Canadian Mazda6, the switches are held in with Torx #20 screws. Oddly, the Mazdaspeed 6 uses regulr Phillips screws to secure the window switches to the piano black trim, as you will see in the following photos. Simply unscrew the existing dumb switches and put the appropriate Speed6 switch in its place.


Okay, the rear door switches and window switch/motor wiring are now ready to be wired into the existing rear door harnesses.

273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)

OK, so back at your vehicle. You should have the rear door panels removed and the wiring for the existing power window switches disconnected.


Using either a large Phillips head screwdriver or a 10mm socket, remove the three bolts that secure the existing 2-PIN power window motors to the window regulator. Be careful when removing the screw that you don't push the "cable spool" into the door.

Now you will notice the motor has has teeth that fit into the corresponding part within the door.

To replace the motor, peel back the foam cover on the rear corner of the door, which will allow you reach your hand towards the back of the motor mount. It's a tight squeeze, but your arms should fit, allowing you to secure the "cable spool" as you secure the new motor in place. You MAY need to wiggle the new motor clockwise and/or counter clockwise a bit against the door to get the teeth to "mesh". A second pair of hands would be helpful here, but rest assured the task CAN be completed solo. Just take your time and be patient and once again be careful to NOT push the "cable spool" assembly into the door.

Once you've got the teeth between the motor and "spool" meshed, reinsert the screws loosely one at a time, and then tighten them back up with the Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket you used to remove the old motor.



Working from the existing 5 pin power window switch, cut a slit in the black plastic sheath covering the wiring about 2 inches to expose
the 5 wires.

Cut all five wires as close as you can to the existing 5 pin window switch plug. Go ahead and pull the red and green wires attached to the existing 2 pin window motor plug through the plastic sheath.

Now go ahead and remove the plastic sheath from the remaining 3 WIRES: BROWN, RED/WHITE, and WHITE/BLUE. Now there's a great spot in the door panel for our 3 window switch splices to sit once wired up. It's directly beneath the window motor and Rather than try and describe it, take a peek at the following pictures and try and cut the lengths of yrou wires so that your 3 splices will end up in this area.

Now we need to splice 4 wires:

- Splice the RED/YELLOW wire from new switch plug into the WHITE/BLUE wire in the the existing door harness.

- Splice the LIGHT GREEN/RED wire from the new switch plug into the BROWN WIRE in the existing door harness.

- Splice the GREEN/YELLOW wire from the new switch plug into the
RED/WHITE wire in the existing door harness.

- Lastly, we need to splice the BLACK/YELLOW wire from the new switch plug into the SOLID BLACK wire leading to the power lock switch.

Trim back any extra wires you might have and use zip ties or electrical tape to bundle the new wires and splices securely into the existing harness.

You may also wish to zip ties the wires leading to the window motor as well.

Here's what your finished product should look like:

We're now done with the rear passenger door.


Follow the same steps as you did for the rear passenger door to replace the existing 2-pin window motor and cutting off the existing 5-pin window switch plug and removing the 2-pin motor plug.

Once again, we'll be splicing 4 wires. Because we're using 2 identical front passenger "donor" harnesses here, only 2 WIRE COLORS will change.

- Splice the RED/YELLOW wire from new switch plug into the WHITE/BLUE wire in the existing door harness.

- Splice the GREEN/YELLOW wire from the new switch plug into the RED/YELLOW wire in the existing door harness.

- Splice the LIGHT GREEN/RED wire from the new switch plug into the YELLOW wire in the existing door harness.

Lastly, we need to splice the BLACK/YELLOW wire from the new switch plug into the SOLID BLACK wire leading to the power lock switch.

Once again, I'd recommend using zip ties or electrical tape to secure your splice and wires to the existing door harness.

And with that. you've completed all the wiring required for this mod. I would recommend testing both rear door switches BEFORE putting your door panels back on.


You will need to reinitialize the all four window switches by opening the window slightly and then holding the window switch up until you hear the motor click twice.

After reinitializing all four windows, your auto up/down function should work from the driver's master control switch and at the three remaining front and rear passenger switches. Additionally, all four windows will now roll down after PRESSING AND HOLDING the unlock button on your keyless entry remote and you can manually roll the windows up and down from the driver's door key cylinder.


Lastly, if you wish to link this thread from other online forums, please respect the rules of the appropriate forum(s).

It goes without saying that I spent a lot of time researching this mod as well as documenting the procedure. Therefore, if you're going to "cut & paste" this mod into other online communities, please do so selfIN ITS ENTIRETY and list Mazda6club as the original source and please credit myself (jhill1977) as the author.


Copyright 2012

jhill1977 (


273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Wow man EXTREMELY thorough! You're making a fairly complicated re-wire into a very easy to understand (at least for me) mod, and I am really looking forward to doing this, as this was one of my first "wishes" when I bought the car.. :) Keep up the fantastic work!

Alright, my part of documenting and photographing this mod is now complete. So when are you gonna' buy the parts necessary and be my first "guinea pig"?

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I've got a "spare set" of the THREE Speed6 window switches needed if anyone is interested in making a deal.

~ Justin

2,276 Posts
Wow, a lot of work for auto windows. But, nice write-up to add this feature to regular 6's. I guess I'm pretty lucky to have this feature stardard on my Speed6.
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273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow, a lot of work for auto windows. But, nice write-up to add this feature to regular 6's. I guess I'm pretty lucky to have this feature stardard on my Speed6.
Yeah, it's not exactly a cheap mod, but for me it wasn't about the cost or time involved, but simply the point of proving that it COULD be done.

273 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Hmm.. how much?

Also.. Great documentation, but you should consider resizing your images to be a bit more.. bandwidth-friendly. My phone's data plan would scream out in agony if I ever tried viewing this mobile :p

Per MMCEOrange's recommendation, I went ahead and re-sized the that should help on the bandwidth side of things.


You can find my YouTube video demonstration of this completed mod here:


As for my spare set of Speed6 switches.

Well, the switches NEW from will cost you $298 make me an offer. :cool:
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