I'm looking into doing this shortly. You don't have to gap the Bosch plugs?What ticker said, but it never hurts to double-check. Just be careful when you do <img src="http://forum.mazda6club.com/images/smilies/5.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" class="inlineimg" />They are supposed to be correct out of the box.
Thanks for suggestions. I am about do DIY spark plug change and wondering what torque value do I need to use? Would it be different if I bough OEM Mazda plugs vs NGK or Bosch plugs?DO NOT overtorque or cross-thread those plugs! It's an aluminum head and pretty easy to hose the threads. If you do you're screwed and will not like the amount of work required to pull the head and have a timesert or similar put in. IMHO for removal break it free and then use your FINGERS to spin it out so as to avoid the risk of placing lateral loads on the threads as the plug comes out of the hole. You MUST start the new plug by HAND, be gentle, make CERTAIN it is in the hole cleanly, and the threads engaged before anything more than very light finger pressure is used on a bare socket extension. You can and should run it all the way down until the gasket makes contact using nothing more than two fingers on the extension. A torque wrench is IMHO NOT optional for tightening either.
I just found my answer. There is a brand named Gearwrench, and the SAE equivalent of 14mm is 9/16. 9/16 is about 1/100th of an inch larger than 14mm. I found what looks like the same wrench on Amazon. GEARWRENCH 3/8" DRIVE 6 POINT 6" MAGNETIC SWIVEL SPARK PLUG SOCKET 9/16" part number 3938DI would like to know where you got the spark plug socket. I cannot find one like it, and I cannot tell the brand. It looks like the word “wrench”, but that seems rather generic, like a bottle that says “beer”.