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Discussion Starter #41
I .... see now that I was supposed to pry by the "u" clips, not the long bar thing, whoops. Oh well!

I had a little tiny one led light thats way smaller than a 194 in my package, anyone know what it is for? I will take a photo tomororw.
Vanity lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Trunk, probably.
Ah yes, he said ONE bulb - probably right. Didn't think our trunk bulbs were so easily swapped, unless the 3rd gen differs from the 1st and 2nd (which it very well might).
 

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i replaced map & dome lights to LED, but the courtesy lights can't replace because the bulb it's hot and i tried pull it's not come down .
i used my hands + gloves + screwdriver flat , any tools to solve this problem?
 

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i replaced map & dome lights to LED, but the courtesy lights can't replace because the bulb it's hot and i tried pull it's not come down .
i used my hands + gloves + screwdriver flat , any tools to solve this problem?
Put a thin rag over the bulb and gently use some needle nose pliers to get it out. Be careful not to squeeze too hard though.

Easiest if you come at the bulb from the side instead of straight up and down.
 

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I tried looking for the glove box light bulbs, but it looks like the 2015s don't have any. Does anybody know the bulb size for the trunk on a 2015? It's smaller than the 194. For those still looking to change their license plate lights, make sure you get 194 led bulbs that are shorter than 25mm.. the stock bulbs are about 22mm. I ended up using 16 mm led bulbs, with decent output. The ones that came with the kit from eBay are 26mm, which won't allow the bulb cover to snap back on. I'm stuck with about 18 194 Led bulbs lol.
 

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I can't seem to get my courtesy bulb out. I want to swap it with LED. I have a 2015 Mazda 6. I got the cover off. Just trying to get the bulb out and it's freaking hot so I had to use a cloth but it's not coming off.
 

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I can't seem to get my courtesy bulb out. I want to swap it with LED. I have a 2015 Mazda 6. I got the cover off. Just trying to get the bulb out and it's freaking hot so I had to use a cloth but it's not coming off.
You might have some luck using a rag and pliers, I used a regular pliers, though you could use needle nose if you need, also you could use a piece of string, making a simple self tightening knot and pull straight down...lastly some strong duct tape will fix anything. Beware when you install the new one not to push it up too hard, my socket poped up and I had a annoying time putting it back in with some needle nose pliers.
 

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I did mine with white LEDs and LOVE the brightness. However, I did the DOOR lights with blue LEDs. I love the look, especially with the white pearl.
 

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So I did an LED festoon swap on my rear dome lights last night. As I was installing them, I was pushing it to get in the housing since the light boards are a little too big to be horizonal. Then the light flickered out suggesting a fuse was blown. I thought screw it and would fix in the morning.
I then went out to town and when I went to lock the doors, they wouldn't lock. I then had to use the "fob touch" method and depress the stuck brake to get it to turn on again. The CEL was lit I was worried something was seriously wrong. Took the car home since I wasn't going to leave it unlocked in the city.

Got around to checking the fuse box this morning.
Its in the box under the hood and was labeled "Room 15A". She was blown all right so I did a swap and the lights worked, the locks worked and the CEL was off. Funny how the Dome light fuse stopped me from locking the vehicle.

Now we know.
I had the EXACT same problem. The lights i got for FRONT fit perfect but won't fit in the REAR dome housings. Blew Room fuse but in my case the CEL was still lit after replacing. I cleared the code and everything seems ok now. Hopefully will remain so. (I think the CEL stayed on in my case because I attempted to start the car while fuse was off not knowing the "trick" fob method, AND started it several times that way with fuse still blown - apparently this sets a more "permanent" CEL which has to be cleared manually)

did you figure out a solution? did you find a bulb that fir well? I am thinking I should get one with a smaller LED board, without such a huge heat sink.
 

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I too had an issue fitting the rear dome lights because of the board, but I just pushed the clips apart enough to wedge it in, all good. I do not recommend changing bulbs with the lights on, you would avoid the fuse issue entirely. The only reason I could imagine having them on is to check polarity, but they aren't going to get damaged if installed in reverse.
 

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Bumping this thread in hope of getting some guidance. I too had the same problem a few have mentioned, and pushed the housing for the courtesy light on the passenger side up inside the door panel. The problem in my case, is I did so before the bulb was secure so now I can't even put a bulb in. Am I going to have to remove the door panel to push the housing back down?
 

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Why are the fuse blowing during installation? Is this normal? And what is the "key fob" method to clear the CEL? Do i have to disconnect batter prior install to prevent this issue?
 
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