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Hey all,

I just got my new fog lights in from CARID and was very pleased with how they turned out despite one having a small crack. I installed them today and took pictures to document so I could make this post.

Note: I did this by lifting the car up and removing the bumper. I know there are ways to do it without removing the bumper and without lifting the car, but I did it this way to make it easier to document and see how everything fits.

Also, I got excited and installed the fog light turn signal without documentation. It is very self explanatory. I will explain it at the end if there is interest. It is plug and play.

Time Taken: 1 hour

Required Materials:

Screwdriver (Phillips and Flathead)
10mm socket and wrench
Floor jack and jackstands
Fog lights (Spyder® FL-MM614-Y (5077806) - Yellow OEM Style Fog Lights)
Fog light stalk (
)
Beer and patience

Instructions:

Step 1: Obtain vehicle

This is my car, a 2014 6MT Touring in Reflex Blue. It did not come with fog lights.



I had been wanting to do the fog lights for awhile and finally pulled the trigger when I got a Visa Gift Card. Excuse the messy garage; it is a rental I share with 3 other roommates at college.

Step 2: Open hood

For those who will ask, its the AEM Dryflow. Works well as far as I can tell.



Step 3: Start from the top





There are 4 screws and 3 tab...things to undo on the top of the bumper. Optionally, you can undo the flap on the top, but I chose to leave it on for the sake of not losing screws.

You also will need to un-bolt the air intake. You can leave it bolted in and just loosen it to move it over the top of the bumper if you like, but it is easier to remove it.



After this step is done, you should be able to give the top of the bumper a slight tug and feel it coming off.

Step 4: Lift car

Always use jackstands when working under the car. A floor jack is also nice. I used a tiny one, as my main tools and toolbox are away in another garage.



I leave the jackstands under a suspension component that is load bearing (best description).

Step 5: Remove front cover

When you are under the car (or not) you will notice these screws on the front of the large plastic cover on the front. There should be 4-6 of them (some of mine were missing).





On the back part of the front cover, there are 10mm bolts. I believe there are also 6 of these.





Once all of the bolts and screws are undone, the final tab holds the cover in place. Just pull it out of the bumper to release the front cover.





It can then be pulled out.

Step 6: Dislodge side-front...panels

There are screws on the front to remove the panels on either side. These dont need to be completely removed; they just need to be removed from the bumper.



The connector can also be seen here if it is dislodged from the dummy plug as mine was.



This is where the plug will be if your bumper has not been previously removed or the plug has not been touched.

This needs to be done on both sides.

Step 7: Sides of the bumper

The last part of the bumper to remove is the sides. Looking in the wheel well, there are 3 tab...clip screws that need to be removed. The last screw that needs to be removed is the single screw behind the wheel well cover.



This should be completed on the other side as well.

Step 8: Remove bumper

The bumper can then be pulled from the side when the screw is removed.





The bumper will then come off of the car (hopefully). Check to be sure it is not caught on any screws.



Step 9: Removing the fake vent things

The fake vents are held in by clips. They look like bodywork clips; a few of mine were broken for whatever reason but the fog lights still hold.







Step 10 (optional): Test lights

Before fitting the lights into their housings, I plugged both of the lights into the sockets to make sure that the work. Luckily, they both did.





The OE plug fits right into the Spyder brand fog light housing. One of my lights was cracked. This bothered me, but I was so excited about the lights that its not a huge deal.

Step 11: Fit lights into housing

The light should fit right into the housing. Make sure you have the side correct as they are kind of hard to differentiate. You will not need any of the other wiring that CARID provides.



The fog light cables are not long enough to reach, so they need to be connected as the bumper is put back onto the car from under it. Make sure you hear an audible click as the plugs are fitted in.

The lights will only work if the headlights are on as well.

Step 12: Enjoy!

Bumper install is reverse of removal, yet doing the top screws first when putting it back on will help to keep it in place.



Hope this helps!
-Josh
 

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GREAT writeup! Good job. I'll move it to the appropriate section, give it an appropriate title, and link it in my 3rd gen one stop shop thread :)
 

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GREAT writeup! Good job. I'll move it to the appropriate section, give it an appropriate title, and link it in my 3rd gen one stop shop thread :)
Thanks Byakuya! I might add the stalk information in the next few days for those who are confused about that.

I feel special being apart of the "One Stop Shop!" :)
 

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Excellent write up! Do you think the stalk is too difficult to install? Anyways I would use my fog lights all the time while my headlights are on and I see that they work that way unless you install the on and off stalk..
 

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Excellent write up! Do you think the stalk is too difficult to install? Anyways I would use my fog lights all the time while my headlights are on and I see that they work that way unless you install the on and off stalk..
The stalk is very easy to install, and you need that switch to activate the fogs - without the stalk, the fog light sockets in the bumper won't get any power.
 

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remove both front wheel, remove front iner fender locking tab or whatever it is called and you have acces to you fog light or fog light cover by pulling the iner fender ...

that's how i change my fog light bulb and it took 10 min on each side because i have only turn the wheel on the inside on the side i was working.
 

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can u explain how to do this? i dont wanna pull the whole bumper ?
you can do this by removing or loosening under body panels, it also helps to elevate the car off the ground. I undid all the bolts and clips that held the panels to the front bumper and also a few clips on the wheel splash shield, enough to carefully bend/peel the panels open enough to gain access to the fog light shroud to remove the dummy shroud and install the fog light assembly.

Word of caution, the nut plates that hold the bolts in appear to be plastic/weak metal and can easily strip, don't German torque the small bolts when reinstalling the underbody panels, just snug it
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Here is the "Light Switch Removal" procedure from the Mazda 6 workshop manual.
I believe I will add this to the bottom of the install guide. It takes about 5 minutes, but I know that actually having the pictures makes it easier.

can u explain how to do this? i dont wanna pull the whole bumper ?
You can do this without removing the bumper. It takes more "blind firing" ; I removed it to clearly show where the lights go and how to install them. Just make sure to not break the body panel clips.
 

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Does anyone happen to know what size screws are used to hold the fog lights to the mounting brackets as well as the bracket to the surround? I just got my kit from Mazda/TRS but didnt order the screws from mazda.

If theyre not too much, ill just get them from the local parts dept, but i figured I can probably do it much cheaper from home depot
 

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Does anyone happen to know what size screws are used to hold the fog lights to the mounting brackets as well as the bracket to the surround? I just got my kit from Mazda/TRS but didnt order the screws from mazda.

If theyre not too much, ill just get them from the local parts dept, but i figured I can probably do it much cheaper from home depot
I'm in the same boat. lol. Was going to poke around home depot tomorrow.

btw, dealer wants $4-6/ screw. lol
 

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all this screwing and poking talk...hahahahaha

So MOST of the screws were overpriced, but really not bad considering how few I need. The ones that connect the bracket to the shroud were like 1.15 each. and the bottom height adjustment screw on the bracket which was somehow different, but was the same price, so I got it from mazda. The screws that attach the foglight to the bracket were $6 a pop. In the interest of not screwing up the threads in the led housings, I grabbed one of them and ill measure the threads and buy the rest of them elsewhere. 6/screw is just insane. Another fine example of how if they would just charge what they should, they would have had an easy sale. sure its not the $5 profit they would have made, but a .50 profit is more than a 0.00 profit.
 

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Err.. lol

Went to Home Depot and found that these work for my fogs. =] In case anyone was wondering... Dealer wanted ~$5/bolt. :nuts:

Side mount bolts are M4-.7 x <8mm
Height Adjust bolt is M6 - 1.0 x <10mm

 

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^thanks, those were perfect! do you happen to know the size of the screw for attaching the mounting bracket to the shroud? the above screws are only the 2 on the side of the light and one bottom aim adjuster. the screw Im looking for is the 3 that are around the bracket. In the pic you have above, one of the holes lines up with the little alignment 'nipple' and next to it takes a screw. the M6 is too large, and the M4 is too small

Thanks! I bought the screws from mazda but havnt opened the bags yet and as long as I can find out what the last size screw I need is, they can all go back to mazda!

Mazda wanted $6 a pop for those height alignment screws!!!
 
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