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DIY: 2016+ rear brakes

41976 Views 15 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  tickerguy
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Hi folks, the front brake DIY is extremely straightforward and well-covered by previous members, but the rears on a 2016+ are a bit different. Just wanted to show you some quick pics and explain the basic process of dealing with this new design.

First thing's first, I had to order factory OEM brake pads from an online Mazda parts company. I could not find the correct part number when searching, and had to research the forum here for a part number. The hard part came when some folks describing the part number used "o" in place of "0", and so on. But I eventually nailed it down, here it is:

GMY0-26-43ZB

The factory original pads are made by TRW, and the replacement OEM pads continue this. Other members have researched this and know them to be OEM's for German brands that use electronic parking brakes.


You can see the plastic electronic parking brake device in this pic.


So first jack one side and set a jackstand under the rail. Then made sure the parking brake is OFF, and remove the wheel. Pop the hood and then undo the brake cap to take pressure of the system!

Use a T30 Torx to remove the plastic parking brake device, there's just two screws that holds this. Clearance is tight, I used a T30 bit on a ratchet first, but had to swap to an L Torx to clear the shock.

Unbolt the caliper, hammer off the stock rotor (with a rubber mallet), and if needed, clean off the rust scale on the mating surfaces with a metal brush and brake cleaner, and install your rotor. I went with a new Stoptech slotted rotor.

Pull the pads, you'll need to clean the glue off the piston and brake pad bracket. I used brake cleaner and a nylon bristle brush to get in there, worked well and its safe.

Now this part is very important! Take a T40 Torx and insert it in the back end of the brake caliper actuator. Turn it clockwise until it stops, which for me only took a few turns.


This resets the emergency brake part behind the regular brake piston. Then use a tool (or what I did, I used a woodworking clamp...don't judge...it worked) to carefully press back the piston. Go slow, and clean the piston's rubber seal as you go. I love using Tub-O-Towels solution-soaked towels in these situations.

Install the new brake pads and hardware, don't add grease to the backside of the pads, you'll prevent these suckers from sticking like they need to. Bolt up the caliper, screw on the e-brake motor, check your torque on all the bolts, get your wheel back on, and drop that side back down. If this is the last wheel you're doing, screw the brake cap back on and drop the hood.

Do the other side, and then when you're all done with both, re-engage the parking brake and listen to the motors whirl for a while until they cinch down. Then disengage and re-engage a few times, just to make a sure.

For me, this is all it took. I of course did my fronts first so right after this, I took the car out and tested my new brakes. EXTREMELY impressive difference from what I started with on my used ~24k mile new-to-me 2016.
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Good write-up. I forgot that the 2016+ went with the electronic parking break and therefore are a bit different. The rears on the "older" 2014 and 2015 models are basically identical to the fronts - did mine about a month ago :)

Adding this to the DIY section of my 1 stop shop.
Good write-up. I forgot that the 2016+ went with the electronic parking break and therefore are a bit different. The rears on the "older" 2014 and 2015 models are basically identical to the fronts - did mine about a month ago :)

Adding this to the DIY section of my 1 stop shop.
Exactly, the rest is cake, no issues at all. I just wish we had an option for a bigger brake without going "big brake kit, due to wheel size.
Good write-up. I forgot that the 2016+ went with the electronic parking break and therefore are a bit different. The rears on the "older" 2014 and 2015 models are basically identical to the fronts - did mine about a month ago :)

Adding this to the DIY section of my 1 stop shop.
Byakuya, the C-Clamp is good to push the rear caliper piston for 2014? No need to twist with needle nose pliers?

Did you go with OEM brake pads or something different? My rear pads are at 20% and soon need a replacement, surprisingly fronts are at 50%.
So the C-Clamp is good to push the rear caliper piston for 2014? No need to twist with needle nose pliers?

Did you go with OEM brake pads or something different? My rear pads are at 20% and soon need a replacement, surprisingly fronts are at 50%.
You are speaking about the 2014. I don't know about that, this DIY help tutorial is for 2016+.
Byakuya, the C-Clamp is good to push the rear caliper piston for 2014? No need to twist with needle nose pliers?

Did you go with OEM brake pads or something different? My rear pads are at 20% and soon need a replacement, surprisingly fronts are at 50%.
No the rears are basically impossible to get with a C-Clamp (trust me, I tried). You'll be needing the pliers :)
No the rears are basically impossible to get with a C-Clamp (trust me, I tried). You'll be needing the pliers :)
Did you go with Mazda OEM rear brakepads or something different?
Did you go with Mazda OEM rear brakepads or something different?
I went with these pads: More Information for CENTRIC 10516790

which are found on this page: 2014 MAZDA 6 2.5L L4 Brake Pad | RockAuto

with these rotors: More Information for CENTRIC 12045084

found on this page: 2014 MAZDA 6 2.5L L4 Rotor | RockAuto

Make sure you double check the year selected (mine is a 2014).

Feel free to PM me with any more questions - don't want to clutter up OP's DIY :)
how did you just close it with a "woodworking" clamp ( is that just a c Clamp)?

I had the brake caliper tool and couldn't get that piston back in. The piston had a 3 pronged end and the kit didn't have a piece for that.
Came here to see how you guys handled it.
You need to turn back the electronic brake cylinder first. Don't even attempt to push the piston back before you do that or you will destroy your caliper.

I wrote this a while back: http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazda6-atenza/406018-need-help-rear-brakes-2016-madzda-6-a.html
how did you just close it with a "woodworking" clamp ( is that just a c Clamp)?

I had the brake caliper tool and couldn't get that piston back in. The piston had a 3 pronged end and the kit didn't have a piece for that.
Came here to see how you guys handled it.
He used a needle nosed plier not a clamp. 2014 model does not have electric parking brake so the rear caliper piston can be twisted straight away.
2015 Mazda 6

Hi All,

I'm planning to change my front and rear brake pads for Mazda 6 2015? I like less dust. The OEM has so much dust. It darkened all 4 wheels.

I found these front brake pads on Amazon but i'm unable to attached a link. I'm not sure if these pads will have as much dust as the OEM. Any comments or recommendation are appreciated.

Front Brake Pads:
Power Stop Z23-1711 Z23 Evolution Sport Carbon Fiber Infused Ceramic Brake Pad with Hardware

Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1711 Ceramic Disc Pad Set With Installation Hardware, Front

Need Rear Brake Pads recommendation.

Also, what is the thickness of the original stock rotor. What is the minimum thickness before I need to replace the rotors.

Thanks
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I literally just tried to change rear pads today and ran into this issue not knowing the electronic brake mechanism was the thing preventing me from pushing the piston back in... thought my pistons were seized so I gave up and put it all back together. I will try again soon with new rotors as well and do it right. Thanks for the easy write up!
Thanks for sharing, it will be handy when I change my pads and rotors.
Good write-up. I forgot that the 2016+ went with the electronic parking break and therefore are a bit different. The rears on the "older" 2014 and 2015 models are basically identical to the fronts - did mine about a month ago :)

Adding this to the DIY section of my 1 stop shop.
Did you use any special tool on the rear brake caliper piston?
If you have the cable parking brake rear calipers you MUST use a tool that turns the piston while winding it back in. If you just press on it you will either find it won't move or, if you get aggressive enough, damage or destroy the mechanism.
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