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Discussion Starter #41
Hi Mach1219

The grommet definitely works but I just prefer to leave the grommet intact. That way there is no way for me to accidentally cut any wires already inside of it(even though that is very hard to accidentally do due to the size of the grommet on this car) and it took me about 8 seconds to drill the hole when at times, you can fight with grommets for quite a while. Both ways work and each car’s grommet has different difficulty levels of getting through. Everyone can kind of decide for themselves on that one. Thanks for adding another option.


Thanks for the tip of where to find a more suitable ground bolt. I have never been happy with where I put mine though luckily, I have had zero issues with my ground as well. I need to stop some rattling from the third brake light and will need to remove the seat bottom to get to where I need to be so I will take that time to also move my ground to your specified location.


A compact sub would be a great idea and I would love to have more cargo space but I also LOVE bass. So I compromised with a 12" sealed sub to keep it small. And I made it very easy to disconnect the sub and amp and remove from my car completely in less than a minute. Already had to do that a few times when I had to haul my dog's metal kennel around and I threw a Christmas tree into my trunk.
 

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umm i think ill just pay a pro to do it right than risking ruining my car
If you lack the skills, experience and tools required to do it yourself, by all means, that would be a better option for you. Keep in mind the "pro" you are referring to is probably an underpaid hack who is installing car stereos because he wasn't good enough to do anything better in life.
 

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If you lack the skills, experience and tools required to do it yourself, by all means, that would be a better option for you. Keep in mind the "pro" you are referring to is probably an underpaid hack who is installing car stereos because he wasn't good enough to do anything better in life.
most of the writeups or how tos here and car forums are vague and assume everyone already knows everything, so how is one supposed to learn unless you see a video or in person, is impossible, not other choice but pay someone to do it

thats the problem with internet "guides". The person writes the steps from his frame of mind, thus, assuming everyone will follow his extremely simplified steps
 

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I understand. Electrical work especially can be hard to do from a vague internet how to that was rushed through. No shame in paying somebody.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I would agree that install guides are not able to make any install a simple and worry free thing, especially for someone that hasn't done that certain thing themselves before. But the cool thing about them being put on a forum on the internet is that it can get you pointed in the right direction and you have the ability to then take pictures and ask questions as you find parts of an install that do not make sense.

Before I do anything I've never done before, I do a ton of research and find videos and written guides. I then start taking things apart like I'm about to do the job but don't actually start cutting wires or drilling holes or anything else more permanent and dangerous. If I find anything I don't understand, I then ask and figure it out. Once I feel I can handle the job I get started. Usually, even though I practiced before hand and already asked questions, I find more questions I need to ask to finish the job.

With that, if you don't feel comfortable with something, don't do it. I have paid to get things done for me because I don't believe I'll get the job done correctly or well. Also, I am not as adventurous on my 2016 Mazda 6 as I was on my 93 Honda civic or on my 02 ford mustang.

Let us know if you have any questions and we all will do our best to help out!
 

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I dont know how different the 2013 head unit is from the 2016, but im about to install a sub in my non bose car and im not sure where to connect the sub signals. Just thought id ask her before making a new thread thats probably have been made before. Ive tried googling it and as far as i can tell ill need a signal converter. Does anyone know of a guide on how to connect a sub to the head unit of a non bose system?

Is the only thing i need an PAC AOEM-MAZ2 to plug the sub to and thats it?
 

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are u installing a sub only, to the factory head unit? you can just tap into the door speaker wires and run them to a sub with a high level input option
 

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are u installing a sub only, to the factory head unit? you can just tap into the door speaker wires and run them to a sub with a high level input option
Was this a reply to my question? If so yes im only installing a small Active subwoofer to the factory head unit. I thought about connecting them to the rear speakers, but i fear that the signal becomes weaker than id like. Idk if the head unit has a few free pins for a subwoofer as the bose systems has them i think, maybe all the head units were similar with the option for adding a sub.

Im curious if the "OEM Radio Plug-n-Play Interface PAC AOEM-MAZ2" will let all the speakers keep their signals and simply create a new one for the sub, or if it steals a equal amount of signal from all the speakers to make them all even.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Im curious if the "OEM Radio Plug-n-Play Interface PAC AOEM-MAZ2" will let all the speakers keep their signals and simply create a new one for the sub, or if it steals a equal amount of signal from all the speakers to make them all even.
Go with the PAC AOEM-MAZ2. It just plugs in to an existing plug and it even gives you a remote turn on cable you can use for an amp. Make sure the sub you are installing has line level RCAs for input since that is what the PAC uses to output the signal. It does not take much power from the speakers and if you are using just 2 channels for the sub, then use the rear 2 so even if it made a slight difference (which is really shouldn't) then you will be able to notice it even less.

The PAC also has a kind of "gain" setting on it for each channel. Haven't looked up a ton on what it does but it can help boost the signal a little bit. Probably would also clip the signal or degrade it if you go too crazy with it.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Hope that helped and let me know if you have any other questions.
 

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Go with the PAC AOEM-MAZ2. It just plugs in to an existing plug and it even gives you a remote turn on cable you can use for an amp. Make sure the sub you are installing has line level RCAs for input since that is what the PAC uses to output the signal. It does not take much power from the speakers and if you are using just 2 channels for the sub, then use the rear 2 so even if it made a slight difference (which is really shouldn't) then you will be able to notice it even less.

The PAC also has a kind of "gain" setting on it for each channel. Haven't looked up a ton on what it does but it can help boost the signal a little bit. Probably would also clip the signal or degrade it if you go too crazy with it.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Hope that helped and let me know if you have any other questions.
No worries, just happy to get some feedback. That was very helpful, now i know that if it runs via RCA i need the PAC and if it doesnt i dont.

Im only installing a under seat active subwoofer, some of them have a built in amp and some dont. The only sub ive owned is a 12" Ground Zero 600w so i dont know any other brands. But Alpine is the brand i have the most trust in and looking at the specs the Alpine PWE-S8 is the most appealing.

The choice is between:
  • Alpine SWE-1200
  • Alpine PWE-V80
  • Alpine PWE-S8
  • Pioneer TS-WX120A
  • Kenwood - KSC-SW11
  • JBL BassPro SL
 

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I tried a PAC LOC on my mazda install, and it failed miserably. If you live close, ill give it to you. Ultimately my solution was a AudioControl LC7i.
 

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I tried all that. Not to mention it was built like a cheap piece of junk.

i suppose it could be defective. I think i tried measuring output at the other end of the rca cable and wasn't getting anything? I'm not an expert in these matters, but when i put in the audioControl, it fixed the problem
 

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Most of what ive read the PAC LOC is the easiest and best way to connect more speakers to the audio system. Although the AudioControl LC7i seems better, it also costs more than i want to spend only to connect a subwoofer, its either a PAC LOC or just splice the wires with the rear speakers. But if the PAC LOC i get dont work ill just returne it and get my money back.

Again, if anyone have some opinions about these brands please let me know which you liked the most. I only familiar with Ground Zero and Rockford Fosgate.
  • Alpine SWE-1200
  • Alpine PWE-V80
  • Alpine PWE-S8
  • Pioneer TS-WX120A
  • Kenwood - KSC-SW11
  • JBL BassPro SL
 

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those are all good brands. Kenwood for head unit, JBL for speakers, rockford for amplifiers.

The PAC LOC, Sure, try it, they are cheap and hopefully it will work for you. Thats why i got it. i was going to go with LC6i, but the 7 is actually a bit smaller in size, and i was trying to fit it in a small space. it ended up not fitting anyway, so i paid up for nothing, didnt want the accubass.

also, i was doing the whole system, repalced 6 factory speakers and added a sub, so it was a better value for me. I wouldnt get that to just power a sub, but if you paln on doing more upgrades later, might be worth to just get one and go from there, will have good part for future upgrade
 

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For the time being i want to try adding only one sub, the stock speakers are decent enough but lack bass.

I know JBL make good PA speakers, but never heard much about their car speakers. But the BassPro SL doesnt seem too bad. Sadly theres very few videos on youtube where i can actually hear the quality, but from all the ones ive heard the BassPro sounds the best.

So if i went with the JBL sub, id only need a cable kit and the PAC LOC. Im guessing ill need a Amplifier Installation Kit with High Performance RCA Interconnect and Speaker Wire?
 
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