Mazda 6 Forums banner

21 - 40 of 85 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hey,
I have a 2016 Mazda 6, and am finishing up my audio upgrade. I followed your guide a bit and I think I used the same bolt as you for the amp ground, but am getting some static noise. I did grind the paint off as well as I could, but I couldn't get the noise to go away.
I was using the PAC LOC at first, but decided I wanted a DSP, so I went from running the LOC/RCAs to running speaker wire to the trunk, and the noise didn't change. The power wire is on the opposite side of the car.
Do you have any thoughts on what might be causing this? It's very high pitched static, only really noticeable through my tweeters.

thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Hi jgreer,

I have actually been having some noise in my audio system as well. It also only comes out of my tweeters due to it being that high of a frequency. I have not found what is causing the issue yet but am still troubleshooting it. I know the noise is not being produced by my LOC or amp so it is something upstream from there. I have not had time to do this yet but I want to try and grab the audio signal from before the block in the passenger kick panel that the LOC is currently plugged into. I don't exactly know what that block is but I figure there is a possibility that it is introducing some noise into the signal and that is then being amplified by the amp and higher sensitivity speakers.

I hope to figure this out since any amount of noise is never fun.

What amp and speakers did you go with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Yep that sounds like my noise problem. I was thinking it was a ground loop, and that I needed to ground my amp and headunit together. But I don't have any experience with that and am not sure that's what it is.
I did try a ground loop isolator on the RCA inputs, and it didnt do anything.
Let me know if you figure it out! I have the Alpine PDX-V9
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Speakers: Kicker 40CS Series (2-way components in the front and 2-way coaxial in the rear)
Amp: Polk Audio PA D4000.4

Please keep me updated as well on anything that you find out or try. I have also tried a ground loop isolator on the RCA's and that did nothing for me.

I have the plan to try and grab the signal from further up stream like I said before. If that doesn't work, I will be tearing the dash apart to get to the head unit so I can try playing with its ground cable and see what else I can mess with while I'm there.

It would be great if there were aftermarket head units so we could get some decent audio outputs but it will be a while if ever for the tablet-style head units.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Alright, will do.
I was going to try really scraping away at the amp ground to make sure its connected this weekend. I'm afraid we might have to go upstream to the headunit as well. I'm not sure if there's any outputs there, or if we'd just have to tap into speaker wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
well I finally got my parts in to install my my subwoofers. The LOC did go directly into the head unit since I don't have the infotainment system in my car, but since I didn't have a stock amp of any sort the remote turn on didn't work, I had to redneck engineer it by going into a fuse in the driver's kick panel, I chose the 15A F.Outlet (cigar lighter under the cd player) as it was off when the car was off. I took pictures of the finished install but they're very blurry since my camera got busted while my phone was in my pocket a few weeks ago. I only have subwoofers but am not hearing any unwanted noise out of mine....and usually if there's a ground loop or any other type of interference it will still make itself known. @jgreer0417 the silver box you are referring to is can the Tuner Amp Unit, or TAU by the mazda service manual. It provides a little bit of amplification and signal filtering.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Thanks so much for your update, Spiffy! I am glad you got your subwoofer hooked up without any issues.

This gives me hope for when I finally get the time to play with the sound system again, I might be able to get rid of the noise by grabbing the signal directly from the head unit and not letting the TAU touch the signal. I haven't seen where the input to the TAU is yet but I would assume on the back side of it and that will be simple to tap into.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Thanks so much for your update, Spiffy! I am glad you got your subwoofer hooked up without any issues.

This gives me hope for when I finally get the time to play with the sound system again, I might be able to get rid of the noise by grabbing the signal directly from the head unit and not letting the TAU touch the signal. I haven't seen where the input to the TAU is yet but I would assume on the back side of it and that will be simple to tap into.
On mine there were 3 or 4 plugs on the back of the head unit, the one closest to the driver's side was the one that hooked to the LOC. I'm not sure it'll have the same connector though since you have the TAU. But hopefully it does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I wouldn't say without any issues though, lol. It did take me about an hour to get my power cable through the rubber boot in the firewall...but it was a 4 gauge. Then when I went to hook everything to the capacitor, the screw set ring terminals I had gotten since I hate crimp style, were too thick and I could only use one per terminal...otherwise the screw wasn't long enough...so I ended up with a crimp on and a screw set on each terminal....then I didn't have a ring terminal or spade terminal big enough to fit the screw I chose for the ground....so I had to just strip the wire and split the copper around the screw for the chassis ground....then once I turned it on the remote turn on didn't work....so I had many issues....fortunately none so bad as to prevent me from getting it installed...haha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
I have no noise in my install but I only have a powered subwoofer using speaker input. Overall I'm happy how my system turned out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I have no noise in my install but I only have a powered subwoofer using speaker input. Overall I'm happy how my system turned out.
jgreer and I only have noise coming out of our aftermarket speakers that are amped. It also only comes out of our tweeters so it is a very high frequency. My sub is quiet as can be for noise which is pretty normal since it doesn't have a very wide range of frequencies going to it and noise is 'generally' higher frequencies.

Wow, Spiffy. It sounds like you had a lot of fun! I never like trying to get through the existing firewall grommets so if I can find a spot, I drill a new hole and use a firewall pass-through. Sometimes there isn't a nice spot to do that and I am forced to cut into an existing one though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
finally got some decent quality pictures of the install. the first pic is from the other night and shows the LOC hooked up, the one of the amp is looking in from the back seat.
Is your power wire too thick going into the amp? Looks like it's twisted off to the side of the amp connector? If it is.. That's not safe.. But I can't really tell what that extra wire is?

Looking good otherwise... But... How does it sound?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
@toy4x yes it is, which I found strange since the amp says it will take up to 4 gauge. I did trim the ground wire since I knew it was going to be too thick. With how I have everything secure that wire won't touch anything, but when I get some time I'll trim that off....as far as sound goes it is not as loud in the 6 as it was in the 3, but still sounds great. I'm not sure if the difference in volume is due to just the car being bigger in general or if it's the acoustics within the car, or it could possibly the the difference in how much the stock speakers added since I had the premium bose system in my 3 and the bottom of the line radio and speakers in the 6...whichever one it is I still am glad to have my bass back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
If I had the time to get it in....or if I could get it without my wife going berserk I might would do that....but alas neither is in the cards at this time...haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
If I had the time to get it in....or if I could get it without my wife going berserk I might would do that....but alas neither is in the cards at this time...haha
Yep, wife hates when surprise packages for me arrive... Lol

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
368 Posts
I recently did an audio upgrade on my 6, and I scanned this thread...and would note a couple observations. No need to drill through firewall for power wire. There's a huge factory grommet with oem harness running through it. Just poke hole through rubber and feed your cable through there....tight, but doable. Not only does this eliminate making an additional and unnecessary hole in your car, it allows you to follow the oem harness with the cable facilitating zip tieing the cable to the oem harness here and there, making for a professional quality install. The oem harness is now supporting your extra cable and it only cost you a few zip ties.

as far as finding a good ground, if you actually remove all the side trim, and the rear seat bottom and side bolsters, instead of lifting it up and shoving the wire underneath, you will find a few very suitable ground bolts in the perfect area where the rear seat transitions into the trunk.

I got a small, marine grade, compact class D sub and mounted it to the metal panel under the rear deck, near the rear of the seat back. keeps it up high for good airflow and out of the way for cargo hauling.
 
21 - 40 of 85 Posts
About this Discussion
84 Replies
15 Participants
Trippp
Mazda 6 Forums
Mazda6club.com is a forum dedicated to the Mazda6 / Atenza. Come and discuss reliability, performance, modifications, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top