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So I decided it was finally time to put some "oomph" in my stoppage. I had some rotors fabricated from the shop that I work at and ordered some Centric brake pads. This is my first DIY so go easy on me! Here a list of tools you'll need:

-Jack
-17mm & 14mm sockets/box wrenches
-Caliper grease
-Large C-clamp
-Disc brake tool (you can either rent/buy one of these at your local PepBoys/Autozone/etc. or you can do what I did and use a pair of needle-nose pliers)
-Block of wood (2x4 preferred but wood is optional, will explain later)
-Assorted bolts (also optional, will also explain later)
-Bungie cord or 6-pack of beer as a means of coercion to get you friend to help

I won't go into too much depth on the basics but here it is listed anyhow:

1) Break your lugnuts
2) Jack up car (either using F/R jacking points or do what I did and do one corner at a time
3) Some may argue that you need stands for this job but you're not really crawling under the car so it's not a 911 jackstand situation. Either way, moving on.

Here's a look at the front OEM rotors:






:| Pretty wimpy



Note the extra threaded hole on the hub of the rotor. You may need to use that later.

4) Start by removing the caliper. To do that, loosen and remove (2) 14mm bolts on the back of the caliper assembly, these are your slider pins. These should be torqued down to roughly 40-50 ft/lbs so they should be relatively painless to remove.

Once you do that, wiggle the caliper out and use a bungie to hang it out of the way somewhere. DO NOT let the caliper dangle by the brake line. I usually hang it on the spring like so:



5) Remove the pads and set them aside, taking note of which clips you need and where they go. I place them on the floor alongside my new pads so I won't get confused when they go back on.

I noticed the outboard pad needed to be angled out as pulling them directly out towards you doesn't work due to the brake bracket being in the way. Just fiddle with it a bit and you'll be fine.

NOTE: If you're only replacing your pads, you do NOT need to remove both caliper bolts. One will suffice. And you can stop here and reverse the steps to install your pads.

6) To remove the rotors, you'll need to remove the brake bracket. The bracket is held on by (2) 17mm bolts further inward of the 2 caliper bolts. I actually found it easier to break both the caliper bolts and the bracket bolts before removing the caliper. These, IIRC, should be torqued down to 70ft/lbs so they'll require a bit more muscle to break free. Here is the bracket coming loose:



Once the bracket comes off. Your rotor should be free. If not, as was the case with my rear rotors, dig through your assortment of bolts (I found a matching bolt in my Miata parts bin) and insert it into the extra hole on the hub of the rotor as shown below:



Just screw it in until your rotor pops off.

Out with the old, in with the new!

Here's a side-by-side comparison:





7) New rotors go on!

Tighten one lug nut to hold the rotor in place:



NOTE: If you've purchase slotted rotors and wondering which way the slots face, they don't really matter so long as the vanes flow straight out. I chose to have the slots face forward just because.

8) Place bracket back on and torque the 17mm's bolts back down to 70 ft/lb

9) Check to make sure the clips on the pads are correct. If you threw your old pads across the garage in a fit of rage, here's a helping photo:



Right side pads are inboard and left is outboard. I left the top-right pad's clip off just so you can see which clip you'll need.

10) Add a light coat of grease to the mating surfaces and slap them puppies back on!

11) Now here's where the C-clamp comes in. The pistons on the caliper need to be pressed back in. I use a 2x4 with a C-clamp. Some people use just a C-clamp and clamp the inside of the piston and the outside of the caliper housing. I like my brake assemblies un-marred so I use wood. It seems to be safe to use the banjo bolt that sits dead center on the outside of the caliper as a clamping spot.

Here's a photo of how I did it. I have a video too that my buddy took of me but I was acting like an idiot so that stays offline :grin2:

(and yes it's a perfect time to do an oil change, too)



12) Slide the caliper back on, bolt it up, proof-read and you're good to go!

13) The rears are exactly the same with one exception. You need the aforementioned tool to twist the piston back in. DO NOT use a C-clamp to press it in.

Also the rears only use 14mm bolts so you can throw away your 17mm tools.




And after about an hour, here's my 6 with the shiny new rotors:





After this, bed your brakes and you should be good to go. To do this:

1) After your car is back on the floor, make sure you depress your brake pedal a few times to get the auto-adjusting calipers to sit back down.

2) Many people do this differently but I run my car up to about 40mph then slam on my brakes. Make sure you do this in an empty lot or road.

3) After the first brake, I run it up to 60mph and slam on my brakes. I do this a few times.

4) By now you'll smell your brakes seeping into your cabin. Do not panic. All is well. I would, however, pull over to check and see if any corner is particularly hotter than the others.

5) Go home, have a beer and feel accomplished. Put on your favorite sit-com or throw on a movie. :cheers:
 

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which rotors were these again and where did you get them? Great wright up!!
 
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