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Hello, just got mazda6 couple days ago, will put on HID soon, but i need to disable DRL first, i did some search, they seems rather complicated, i used to drive a focus and disable DRL is just taking a electrical part out from the fuse box, anyone knows an easier way on mazda6? much appreciated
 

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I've done a few DRL disablements on people's 6s. Its not that hard, but its quite a PITA to work upside down under the dash.

Here's what involved:

1. Under the dash, there's a blue box.
2. You need to find one of the wires coming out of that box (the exact colour of the wire escapes me at the moment, but there's a write up on the forum, I believe by Guinea Pig) and cut it.
3. Attach a piece of ground wire to the end of the wire that's still attached to the blue box, and ground it to a nearby screw or bolt under the dash.

That's about it.

You'll spend most of the time wresting with the wire, trying to get it cut, stripped, and getting the ground wire attached. All this while working upside down under the dash, where there is no light and where there is only enough space for one hand (we humans tend to have two and generally work better when using both hands together)

Hope this helps.

PS! It seems like you may already have read that write-up, in which case the answer to your question is: yes, there's no other way.
 

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If we buy a set of HIDs with lifetime warranty...why do we need to disable DRL's....its covered by warranty anyways is it not?

just asking because i didn't want to start a new thread
 

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If we buy a set of HIDs with lifetime warranty...why do we need to disable DRL's....its covered by warranty anyways is it not?

just asking because i didn't want to start a new thread
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Good point... but your kit won't last longer than a few days (or even hours) with the DRL circuit intact. I'm sure you'd want to get at least a few months of use out of the kit before your ballasts go kaboom.

The rapid on/off pulsation of the lowbeam circuit that's needed to create the low-output DRL really does one heck of a number on the ballasts. Ballasts (especially aftermarket kit ballasts that have inferior electronics compared to OEM ballasts) are only intended to be turned on and off once within at least 2 or 3 minutes.
 

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Good point... but your kit won't last longer than a few days (or even hours) with the DRL circuit intact. I'm sure you'd want to get at least a few months of use out of the kit before your ballasts go kaboom.

The rapid on/off pulsation of the lowbeam circuit that's needed to create the low-output DRL really does one heck of a number on the ballasts. Ballasts (especially aftermarket kit ballasts that have inferior electronics compared to OEM ballasts) are only intended to be turned on and off once within at least 2 or 3 minutes.
[/b]
So is it better to always have the 'full package' on even when you don't have HIDs, including during the day?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've done a few DRL disablements on people's 6s. Its not that hard, but its quite a PITA to work upside down under the dash.

Here's what involved:

1. Under the dash, there's a blue box.
2. You need to find one of the wires coming out of that box (the exact colour of the wire escapes me at the moment, but there's a write up on the forum, I believe by Guinea Pig) and cut it.
3. Attach a piece of ground wire to the end of the wire that's still attached to the blue box, and ground it to a nearby screw or bolt under the dash.

That's about it.

You'll spend most of the time wresting with the wire, trying to get it cut, stripped, and getting the ground wire attached. All this while working upside down under the dash, where there is no light and where there is only enough space for one hand (we humans tend to have two and generally work better when using both hands together)

Hope this helps.

PS! It seems like you may already have read that write-up, in which case the answer to your question is: yes, there's no other way.
[/b]
done!, just that brown wire needs to be cut, but dam~, that wasn't fun when down there under the dash =.=...but thx a million tho
 

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done!, just that brown wire needs to be cut, but dam~, that wasn't fun when down there under the dash =.=...but thx a million tho
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To be help of I am glad.

So is it better to always have the 'full package' on even when you don't have HIDs, including during the day?
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Well, if you don't have HIDs then don't worry about it. A standard H1 bulb isn't sensitive to the pulsations, not like the fancy electronics inside a ballasts. Also, an H1 bulb is a few dollars in cost compared to several hundred dollars in the case of a ballast.

So, the advice only applies to those who've got HIDs.
 

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forget that... just do what i did:

link the HID ground directly to the battery. In this way you will have your HID always on when you start the car or when you turn on the lights. Also you'd be in compliance with canadian laws regarding DRL.

There will always be enough current to the ballast, therefore will extend your ballast lifetime more.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
To be help of I am glad.
Well, if you don't have HIDs then don't worry about it. A standard H1 bulb isn't sensitive to the pulsations, not like the fancy electronics inside a ballasts. Also, an H1 bulb is a few dollars in cost compared to several hundred dollars in the case of a ballast.

So, the advice only applies to those who've got HIDs.
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my hid is here, but when i do the installation, do i actually need to take off the bumpers etc or i can do it straight after the hood is open? seems like the space is pretty tight at the back of the headlighs
 

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Unless you've got tiny hands, there's no way you'll be able to succesfully perform the install with the bumper in place and the headlights installed. You'll need to remove the bumper and the headlights. Its really not that hard. Takes about 15 minutes tops till the headlights are out.
 

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forget that... just do what i did:

link the HID ground directly to the battery. In this way you will have your HID always on when you start the car or when you turn on the lights. Also you'd be in compliance with canadian laws regarding DRL.

There will always be enough current to the ballast, therefore will extend your ballast lifetime more.
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.... r u serious??? when u start up your car, it would take lots of amp to turn on the engine, plus the HID???

and also, no wiring harness?? :nono: so basically, u wouldnt know what's happening to the ballast once you get a spike in battery power? unless u have the xtec, then i'd say GET A WIRING HARNESS !!!

Unless you've got tiny hands, there's no way you'll be able to succesfully perform the install with the bumper in place and the headlights installed. You'll need to remove the bumper and the headlights. Its really not that hard. Takes about 15 minutes tops till the headlights are out.
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werd... !!! ^^
 

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.... r u serious??? when u start up your car, it would take lots of amp to turn on the engine, plus the HID???

and also, no wiring harness?? :nono: so basically, u wouldnt know what's happening to the ballast once you get a spike in battery power? unless u have the xtec, then i'd say GET A WIRING HARNESS !!!
werd... !!! ^^
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ive had no problem in 3 years. brand is Meccatune.

Even when the Ac or heater on...

why u guys are so into Xtec, many people have had many problems with them.

An online store said in a BWM forum that they have had so many returned ballasts that they dont even sell Xtec anymore.

The only good thing is the lifetime warranty, which is more a marketing strategy than anything else.

it might be brighter than other HID kits, but more reliable!?! I dont know about that.
 

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Hey guys !

Channt , I like the idea of having them on all the time (when engine on) . Where did you hear about extending the life of the ballasts this way with the harness-to-battery hook-up ?
Do we still have to disable our DRLs when we go with that harness option ?

Here's Guinea Pig's WRITE-UP on disabling the Day Running Lights

t mo t , you say GO ! with the wire harness-to-battery with the Xtec . Why Xtec and not another brand ? Is it 'cause of the Lifetime Warranty ?
Don't HIDs draw less power on the electrical system ; so how could it hurt the amps at start-up ??
Apexcone (Xtec) kits come with the wire harness for the battery if you ask for it . Well I'm 90% sold on a 55w 5000K HID kit from Apexcone ; you mind telling me why when 90% don't get the harness when they buy the kit ? Must be 'cause these 90% are Americans without DRLs .
Does it come out more expensive with your retro-fit (your sig) and how does it compare in performance output/look ?

zoomzoomfan , you mention that there's a recommended waiting period of 2-3 minutes before lighting 'em up again ..... what happens if you have to use your HIGHS with a 'flash-to-pass' maneuver ; that going to shorten the HIDs lifespan too ?
 

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Harness and DRLs are totally unrelated to each other. You will still need to disable the DRLs whether or not you use a separate harness for the HIDs.

The majority of people choose not to use an additional harness cuz they figure the stock harness is adequate.

If you have a Canadian 6 (i.e. with DRLs) you must disable your DRLs. This, however, only applies to 04 and 05 model years. The 06's are different and do not require DRLs to be disabled.
 

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Thx for the reply zoomzoomfan .... while you were answering , I was editing/adding a question for you in the bottom of my previous post .

Already , so I gather (with your help heheh) that channt wasn't talking about that wire harness supplied with kit upon demand . OK also for that harness use , should I say USELESS then ?
I have the '05 CDN model , guess the '06's DRL is different 'cause they chose to use only one kind - the same as the ones that have the OEM HID option ; more cost effective ...

I noticed in your sig. (man is it ever hard to read haha) you used projectors + the Xtec 4500K with the 50w option (instead of the 35w) .
If you check my post in the Electrical section under the Apexcone thread ; there is a debate between two vendors about ''washout'' in hue color temp due to the increase from 35 to 50w . Can you give me some feedback on this since you have the 55w (I'm planning on getting the 50w 5000K for a hint of blue hue .... does yours have blue hue at all in the flicker when you look at the headlight housing ? - not the road !)
 

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Already , so I gather (with your help heheh) that channt wasn't talking about that wire harness supplied with kit upon demand . OK also for that harness use , should I say USELESS then ?
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If the harness that comes with the kit has one or two relays, two fuses, and connects the battery directly to the ballasts, then that's the kind of harness that you need to be getting. I'm not sure what sort of a harness these kits come with. I know that I had to purchase my harness separately for about $40 extra. Alternatively, if you're handy with a soldering iron, you can make your own harness. All you need is some decent gauge wire, some terminals, fuse holders, and some relays. I made a harness for a HID install that I did for a Mazda3 owner. Wasn't all that hard to manufacture.

Can you give me some feedback on this since you have the 55w (I'm planning on getting the 50w 5000K for a hint of blue hue .... does yours have blue hue at all in the flicker when you look at the headlight housing ? - not the road !)
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Well, lets compare apples to apples first. I assume you're looking at the XTEC H1 kit. My projectors are D2S and therefore, by default, there will be some bluish/purple flicker when looking at the lights from a distance... but only from a certain angle. My ballasts and bulbs, although made by XTEC, are D2S also.

Now, I've had a chance to compare the 4500K XTEC 50watt H1 setup (i.e. XTEC 4500K H1 bulbs in stock halogen projector with XTEC 50watt ballasts) to my own set up. You'd think they'd look the same, but this isn't the case. A side-by-side comparison showed that the H1 kit was a bit yellower than the D2S.

Now, although D2S projectors have colour in the cutoff, this doesn't account for the colour difference we noticed. Assuming that the ballasts are producing the same amount of power in both cases, it could be down differences in the bulbs. Or, it could very well be that the D2S ballasts aren't making as much power as the H1 ballasts.

So, in my case, I did not experience a "washout" condition.

Hope this info helps.
 

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Now, I've had a chance to compare the 4500K XTEC 50watt H1 setup (i.e. XTEC 4500K H1 bulbs in stock halogen projector with XTEC 50watt ballasts) to my own set up. You'd think they'd look the same, but this isn't the case. A side-by-side comparison showed that the H1 kit was a bit yellower than the D2S.

Now, although D2S projectors have colour in the cutoff, this doesn't account for the colour difference we noticed. Assuming that the ballasts are producing the same amount of power in both cases, it could be down differences in the bulbs. Or, it could very well be that the D2S ballasts aren't making as much power as the H1 ballasts.

So, in my case, I did not experience a "washout" condition.

Hope this info helps.
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In your comparo with the XTEC , did you get a chance also to compare light output on the road ahead to see the differences .... was it noticeable and in which way ? Was one brighter than the other ... more focused / glare , what not ?

For the yellowish , I figure the 5000K should resolve that issue , if any . A retro fit is great , but there is a lot involved in the process and I feel intimidated by it so far after all the reading involved .... yet the H1 kit from XTEC somewhat worries me with what I read that they are plagued with ballast problems despite their lifetime warranty ; it still sucks to have to replace 'em like every three months ! Makes me wonder if it has to do with the fact that some turn'em off without waiting the 2-3 minutes after igniting 'em ? So I guess flash-to-pass (HIGH Beams) is out of the question , or else .... ? Hard decisions ! Rrrr

Thx again zoomzoomfan , your input is appreciated !
 

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6 Pack. I'd just like to explain the comparison again, so things make more sense:

Car #1: Mazda6 with stock halogen projectors, XTEC 50Watt H1 kit with 4500K bulbs.

Car #2: Mazda6 with retrofitted HID projectors, XTEC 50Watt D2S kit with 4500K bulbs.

Differences noted:

Car #1: Yellower and SEEMINGLY slightly brighter output. Light beam concentrated on two distinct spots on the road (aka hotspots). Cutoff offered no colour whatsoever, whether one looks at the lights while standing in front of the car, or looking at the cutoff projected on a wall while sitting inside the car. Glare was quite definitely an issue as well.

Car #2: Bluer output. Not necessarily brighter or dimmer than car #1. Light beam is spread evenly from side to side (left-to-right) and therefore some people mistakenly think the output is dimmer. Not true, I assure you. Cutoff had distinct areas of blue-purple when looking at cutoff projected on a wall. Blue-purple could also be noted when looking at the lights while standing in front of the car at a considerable distance, off to the side a bit. No glare.

Analysis of the findings:

What you've essentially witnessed is a comparison of projectors and NOT of the two kits. What I mean to say is that all the differences between car #1 and #2 noted above cannot be attributed to the two variants of XTEC 50 Watt kits installed in the respective cars. The differences can only be attributed to the fact that one of the cars is using stock halogen projectors and the other is using retrofitted HID projectors from a late-model BMW.

I hope you're able to appreciate what I'm trying to say: essentially that the comparison is unfair and in fact invalid.

For your question regarding the XTEC ballast problems. Yes, it was true that they were having issues. These issues seem to have stablized. I think RPM more than XTEC had been instrumental in ensuring that we, the customer, didn't get screwed. Hats off to Donny for that. In any case, bear in mind a few things. If you're going to put an aftermarket ballast into your car, you need to expect that the unit will give you issues at some point in time. Therefore, the lifetime warranty is a must with kits. Don't buy a kit that doesn't offer a decent warranty.

Those people who initially got bad XTEC ballasts, myself included, have since then been running trouble free for almost 11 months now. Seems like the XTEC ballast issue is a thing of the past.

As for user behaviour with respect to turning on and off the lights, this is unfortunately something that needs to be practices regardless of which brand of kit is being used. Aftermarket ballasts are inferior by nature in comparison to OEM ballasts and if the user/owner is in the habit of turning on and off the lights in rapid succession, they can only be inviting issues as a result. Try not to do it, that's the bottom line... especially when running an aftermarket ballast.

HTH
 

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zoomzoomfan , Thx for taking time to explain in detail . :)
So I gather car #1 which has the stock projector also had its metal glare piece in ... or was it taken out ?
I get those hotspots in my stock lighting ; two beams that focus a straight line . That's why I turn on my integrated fogs for a more uniformed beam (the H3s as you know light output is spread & upclose while the H1s beam out further and focused . So I guess with an H1 HID kit you get the same stock light output pattern ? Is this what you observed ?
I've read that the ECE projectors are needed when you have Xenon-charged bulbs cause they light up at the tip of the bulb , unlike the halogens that light up the whole part of the bulb (if I remember correctly) . Does this still apply with the H1 Xenon-charged kit ?

Now as I have probably mentioned it before ; I am willing to go with the 5000K for that light hint of blue hue .

The following is what one member posted :

I have 5000K Xtec, they have been installed for over a year now. No issues, rarely get a high beam flash from oncoming traffic (maybe twice in over a year) and they are a huge improvement over stock. Look very white to slightly blue, depending on angle you look at the headlights. White from head on, blueish at side angles. I have had many compliments on the lights and when anyone gets in the car at night it is the first think they notice. Also good to note that as HIDS age they will get higher in the K scale over time.

And what he answered to my questions in PM :

The kit I have uses the existing stock projectors. The install was easy, only had to drill a small hole in the dust caps at the back of the headlight assembly to pass the wires through. Then mount the ballasts.

I believe flashing the high beams leaves the low beams on, so you should not have any issues with ballast life when flashing high beams. I know I have not.

I did not remove the or change anything on the stock headlamp. I have no issues with glare. It could be the fact that I have eyelids, but they do not get in the way of the beam as I can see the cut offs clearly. The light output is very improved over stock. It is a night and day difference for me. I have yet to come by another car that illuminates the road as bright as mine does not. That includes all sorts of Lexus, Nissan, BMW, Benz, Audi, Infiniti, MazdaSpeed, etc cars that have factory HIDs. As far as signs go, that was one of the first things I noticed. Signs now illuminate a lot more due to the white, blue light output. Especially any signs with reflective properties.


I'd like your opinion on that as well . Much appreciated as usual zoomzoomfan
 
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