[Typhoon Yoda]

Has anyone attempted to replace the default flasher with a digital one, so you don't have to use load resistors with LED bulbs on the blinker? If so which digital flasher did you use?

Example:
8 PIN ELECTRONIC LED FLASHER BLINKER FIX NEW FORD MAZDA

 

[DavidNorton]

I tried to research this and could not find any certain info. I'm yet waiting for the wiring diagram to come out in my local Library so I can check it out. AFAIK the flasher is build into the onboard computer. I still hear the clicking sound from the turn signals coming out of the dash, but it's source is I believe electronic piezo-crystal speaker, rather than mechanical relay ... I think there might be a way to program the computer not to hyperflash, but I'm not sure about that - need to talk to Mazda certified tech.

 

[tommyz23]

I tried to research this and could not find any certain info. I'm yet waiting for the wiring diagram to come out in my local Library so I can check it out. AFAIK the flasher is build into the onboard computer. I still hear the clicking sound from the turn signals coming out of the dash, but it's source is I believe electronic piezo-crystal speaker, rather than mechanical relay ... I think there might be a way to program the computer not to hyperflash, but I'm not sure about that - need to talk to Mazda certified tech.

The hyperflash maybe there to let you know you have a burnt out flasher bulb. That's just a guess on my part.

 

[Typhoon Yoda]

Ah interesting. Well, I guess I'll have to use resistors for now. I found a place in the trunk that I can mount the resistors between two pieces of metal, so heat shouldn't be a problem. I was really nervous about putting those hot resistors near the felt liner of the trunk.

 

[daztd]

The hyperflash maybe there to let you know you have a burnt out flasher bulb. That's just a guess on my part.

+1. This is true

 

[Mz6GreyGhost]

Ah interesting. Well, I guess I'll have to use resistors for now. I found a place in the trunk that I can mount the resistors between two pieces of metal, so heat shouldn't be a problem. I was really nervous about putting those hot resistors near the felt liner of the trunk.

I mounted the resistors for the tails on the metal casing, in the inside corner. It's actually a good fit, since it's closer to the plastic trunk trim piece than the felt, but it's also a couple inches away from both of them. I wish I took a pic of them...

Either way, they fit well, and despite the heat generation, everything has been fine for the past few months.

 

[Typhoon Yoda]

I mounted the resistors for the tails on the metal casing, in the inside corner. It's actually a good fit, since it's closer to the plastic trunk trim piece than the felt, but it's also a couple inches away from both of them. I wish I took a pic of them...

Either way, they fit well, and despite the heat generation, everything has been fine for the past few months.

Cool, sounds like you put yours near the same place as mine. If you remove that plastic trim piece where the latch for the trunk is, I put my two resistors in the metal spacing that the plastic trim covers up.

 

[Mz6GreyGhost]

Cool, sounds like you put yours near the same place as mine. If you remove that plastic trim piece where the latch for the trunk is, I put my two resistors in the metal spacing that the plastic trim covers up.

Yup. Exactly what I did.

 

[DavidNorton]

LED turn signals

The hyperflash maybe there to let you know you have a burnt out flasher bulb. That's just a guess on my part.

That is correct. But I wanted to see if the current detection can be lowered - lets say to .1 Amps instead of the existing one 1.3 Amps (someone mentioned that he tried different resistors to find that out). Really, if the bulb is burnt there should be no current going at all and that should be the detection point - 0 (zero) Amps, not 1.3. LED is using Amps ans some High Power LED eat .3-.5 Amps...Just ranting here