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Ok guys, here is the install I promised. I cant promise that it will work for everyone but it did for me. I tried breaking it down into steps as not everyone will need to modify the pod for example.



POD preparation:

This is based on installing a Auto Meter mechanical gauge. I doubt that any pod modification is necessary for digital gauges such as the Vei . Digital gauges tend to be shorter in length than their mechanical counterparts.

The pod was modified in two areas: the excess at the bottom was removed and a section on the aft potion of the pod was bored out, similar to how a router works on wood. Only in this case, I used a drill bit and worked it into the mold until the grove that you see was created.





I had to remove excess from the bottom due to the length of the auto meter gauge. Below is a picture looking into the gauge, from the front, after both area modifications had been completed.





Gauge Prep:

I don’t have a pic of the pre-modded gauge so you will just have to bear with me on this. My gauge came with two very long mounting bolts attached to the gauge. Obviously, these had to go so I simply dremeled them off:



This allowed the gauge to fit flush into the modified pod. The next challenge was to modify the method used to connect the vacuum line to the gauge. My gauge shipped with a three piece compression nut setup, that when assembled and attached to the gauge, added another ½ to the overall length –that was unsat. So, I came up with this idea.



Basically, I went to home depot, grabbed one of these:



Drilled out the center of it with a 1/8” bit – that produced this:



Keep in mind that the ¼ in compression end cap is bigger than the connection on the back of the gauge so I had to wrap the connection with pipe tape. I used quite a bit, perhaps 10 wraps, before I was satisfied with the fit. I would like to have used a smaller compression cap but ¼” was the smallest I could find.

Routing the electrical wires and vacuum lines:

This is perhaps the toughest part of the defrost vent pod install because it requires a bit of faith. I say that because you have to drill a hole through the vent ducting in order to feed the wires down behind the dash area.

Before you do this, look up underneath the dash. At the very top you will see two areas of venting conduit. The closest one to you leads to the main drivers side vent. Above that and even harder to see is the ducting that is used for the defrost system. There is obviously no way to get a drill up in there, at least not with any degree of certainty that you won’t drill into something else. So here is my solution.

I used a ¼” drill bit to produce a hole big enough for both the vacuum line and the electrical wiring. I don’t have a precise drilling location; I basically went as far back as I could before my drill came into contact with the front windshield. Hold the bit steady and apply just enough pressure to penetrate the plastic, stop when you feel the bit break through.

Next, feed about a foot of the electrical wire and vacuum line down the hole then go back under the dash and look for them.



Once located, feed as much down through the hole as you want - being sure to leave enough “on top” to work with. This is what mine looked like when fed through the hole I drilled.



And heres the excess I had:





Ok, now let’s hook up the electrical portion.

The Auto Meter mechanical only has two wires: a +12V and a ground. For the +12v I used an “add-a-circuit” to tap off the cigarette lighter fuse in the cabin fuse box:



For the ground I used a bolt/washer that was very near to the fuse box:





Now lets hook everything to the gauge:

Feed everything through the pod:



Attach the vacuum line and electrical portions:



Feed the gauge assembly into the pod and check for fit:





Before actually installing the pod back onto the dash lets look at how the vacuum line is ran:

I ran it through the rubber grommet as seen below:



I made the hole using a Phillips screw driver and gently pushed it through until it came out the back side. Some peeps have actually drilled through the firewall and if that’s what you choose than Im sure it will work too.

After you feed the vacuum line through the grommet, route it through the engine bay and attach it as shown below:



Once everything is hooked up start up the car and see if it works. You should be seeing about 20 hg-in on the gauge if starting it cold, at warm idle I typically see 21-22hg-in. I verified that with my DashHawk just to make sure everything was good to go.

Once your satisfied, install the pod back into the dash and enjoy your new set up.



Hopefully this will help some people out. This is by no means a all inclusive guide- merely my experiences. So if you guys have better ideas or practical experience please feel free to comment or share.
 

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Aaragon,

Nice job man, thanks for taking the time to do a write up.. looks good!

2 Questions though..

What is a "add-a-circuit" and is that the best place to "T" into for boost pressure?.. wont the readings change depending on the BOV (ie GREDDY RS)
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey, thanks for the feedbacks guys, I appreciate it.


Aaragon,

Nice job man, thanks for taking the time to do a write up.. looks good!

2 Questions though..

What is a "add-a-circuit" and is that the best place to "T" into for boost pressure?.. wont the readings change depending on the BOV (ie GREDDY RS)
Thanks[/b]

1.) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=071-580 A very cool piece of hardware IMO
2.) I'm not 100% sure but I don't believe the readings will change. All the write ups that Ive seen thus far have the "T" placed in this location.

Good luck,
Aaragon
 

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+1 STICKY

Thank you aaragon. Will come in real handy once I get mine!

YY
 

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Great this is what I was looking for.
 

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Thanks for the writeup and pics aaragon! How did you secure the gauge in the holder? Is it just an interference fit (ie. push it in and friction holds it in place)? Ideally there should be some type of clamp or set screw to lock it in place. I may mod my holder to accomodate a set screw.

A suggestion for the electrical connections. In your pics the wires are shown poked through the holes in the terminals in the back of the gauge, and then partially wrapped around the terminal. I strongly suggest wrapping electrical tape around this to eliminate any possibility of the wires coming loose and shorting out. An electrical fire is quite nasty.

Better yet, get some female spade terminals (or the correct mating type for the style of terminal on your gauge), crimp them on to the ends of the wires and then insert into the male spade. Most automotive shops, electrical hobby shops and some hardware stores carry them. Or solder the wires on but this would make removal and installation more difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the writeup and pics aaragon! How did you secure the gauge in the holder? Is it just an interference fit (ie. push it in and friction holds it in place)? Ideally there should be some type of clamp or set screw to lock it in place. I may mod my holder to accomodate a set screw.

A suggestion for the electrical connections. In your pics the wires are shown poked through the holes in the terminals in the back of the gauge, and then partially wrapped around the terminal. I strongly suggest wrapping electrical tape around this to eliminate any possibility of the wires coming loose and shorting out. An electrical fire is quite nasty.

Better yet, get some female spade terminals (or the correct mating type for the style of terminal on your gauge), crimp them on to the ends of the wires and then insert into the male spade. Most automotive shops, electrical hobby shops and some hardware stores carry them. Or solder the wires on but this would make removal and installation more difficult.[/b]

Hey Super' ,

I actually did tape the terminals, just forgot to mention that point -thanks! As far as securing the gauge goes - the pod holds it in quite nicely but i know that varies from gauge to gauge. My Prosport was a tad to wide when I tried it but luckily the Auto Meter fit perfectly. I like the idea of a set screw though. Id hate to have that gauge come flying out in the event of an accident, Yikes!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Man that pod looks AMAZING, where did you get it!?!?!?!?
:yesnod:
:laugh:[/b]

LOL...

I gave some bum on the corner 5 bucks and a sandwich and he gave my this POD.... j/k :laugh:
 

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A few questions...where did you all pick up your vacuum tubing? All i can find are 50' spools, ugh. Anybody have a spare 15' that they could part with for a few dollars? Secondly, which size "tee" did you use and where did you get it? VEI specifies a 1/8" barb for the line to the gauge, but I don't know what size the other two ends should be. Lastly, anybody have a picture with the stocker BPV? I want to be 100% sure I have the right line before I do any slicing. TIA!

tmtbiker
 

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I am gonna link this to my boost gauge write up as well, good option!
 

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Great job bro. When I get back to Belvoir I will have time to finally install all my parts. Thanks.
 

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They sell those add a circuits everywhere autozone, napa, checker etc. Some guy recommended fuel line for all my boost lines. I got 3/16" and it works great, a little tight, but super strong stuff. Running 15.2 psi currently, everything works great.
 

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mine is all installed. :D

i have a wire lead for a dimmer setting that needs to be attached to something that works with the lights, so my gauge dims at night. i need some suggestions as to which wire to tap please.
 

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Th glow ring on the cigarette lighter is what i used for dimming, details in my write listed in my sig. But I used the center vents so the proximity made it much more logical for my instal.
 

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QUOTE (BigBen @ Aug 15 2008, 08:12 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1413141
Th glow ring on the cigarette lighter is what i used for dimming, details in my write listed in my sig. But I used the center vents so the proximity made it much more logical for my instal.[/b]
how much of the center console/dash did you have to remove?  that sounds like a PITA to do just for my one wire..i could do it when i install my short shifter i guess....


anybody else know of a source?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
QUOTE (tmtbiker @ Aug 14 2008, 05:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1412735
mine is all installed. :D

i have a wire lead for a dimmer setting that needs to be attached to something that works with the lights, so my gauge dims at night. i need some suggestions as to which wire to tap please.[/b]

You might also be able to tap off the instrumentation dimmer switch located to the left of the steering wheel. My gauge doesnt use a dimmer but I think I remember reading other install guides that mentioned the dimmer switch. Another option would be to tap off of the head light fuse in the engine bay fuse box, but it would require a bit more work to route the wiring for that.
 

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QUOTE (tmtbiker @ Aug 12 2008, 01:00 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1410923
A few questions...where did you all pick up your vacuum tubing? All i can find are 50' spools, ugh. Anybody have a spare 15' that they could part with for a few dollars? Secondly, which size "tee" did you use and where did you get it? VEI specifies a 1/8" barb for the line to the gauge, but I don't know what size the other two ends should be. Lastly, anybody have a picture with the stocker BPV? I want to be 100% sure I have the right line before I do any slicing. TIA!

tmtbiker[/b]
I went to pep boys for the vacuum tubing, i got about 6-8 feet as recommended by VEI and i bought the universal T which will fit with the vacuum line....although this T works fine maybe try getting a metal one, and use zip ties to hold them tight. ...When you buy the line get 2.8-3mm size in diameter this will fit the VEI gauge and the universal Tee..hope thathelps

QUOTE (6ISPEEDSTER @ Aug 15 2008, 02:15 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1413579
I went to pep boys for the vacuum tubing, i got about 6-8 feet as recommended by VEI and i bought the universal T which will fit with the vacuum line....although this T works fine maybe try getting a metal one, and use zip ties to hold them tight. ...When you buy the line get 2.8-3mm size in diameter this will fit the VEI gauge and the universal Tee..hope thathelps[/b]


my bad..you installed it already lol
 
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