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I guess I kinda still like my car
Considering what you have been through, you must really like your car. Any update?

@blenny8483
Congratulations! Please consider a paint protection like ceramic coating or clear film. I don't have one so I don't know which is better but I have a lot of chips and I only have about 50,000 km.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Considering what you have been through, you must really like your car. Any update?

@blenny8483
Congratulations! Please consider a paint protection like ceramic coating or clear film. I don't have one so I don't know which is better but I have a lot of chips and I only have about 50,000 km.
I have a 7 year ceramic coating on the SS. I'm looking at doing a paint protection package for the Mazda (and a Blackvue dual camera dashcam too, as I have one in the SS). They have a couple of different packages on the paint protection - a bumper package, 'highway package' (which covers the leading edge of the hood), or a full front clip package (so full hood coverage). I'm leaning towards full front clip and also coverage on the rocker panels and trunk lip. Tons of dump trucks on my highway commute that spew gravel all over the place. Wish I had done that to the SS and not just the ceramic coating.
 

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I have a 7 year ceramic coating on the SS. I'm looking at doing a paint protection package for the Mazda (and a Blackvue dual camera dashcam too, as I have one in the SS). They have a couple of different packages on the paint protection - a bumper package, 'highway package' (which covers the leading edge of the hood), or a full front clip package (so full hood coverage). I'm leaning towards full front clip and also coverage on the rocker panels and trunk lip. Tons of dump trucks on my highway commute that spew gravel all over the place. Wish I had done that to the SS and not just the ceramic coating.
If you drive a lot of highway I'd highly recommend it..

I think the highway package one is sufficient.
 

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Considering what you have been through, you must really like your car. Any update?
More issues while all the other ones are still on going.

  • Car is struggling to start some days (turns over more than the usual and takes a long time to fire up (this happens on days when the barometric pressure changes, so days that start clear and end up rainy)
  • Transmission/torque converter is doing a surging/slow vibration/bouncing when it engages from being at a full stop. When in bumper to bumper traffic in the city, I either have to have my foot fully on brake or fully off, no in between...the sensation is just brutal. I've started using the auto e-brake function in traffic to help keep the brakes fully engaged on the car when in traffic. The bounce is really annoying and very uncomfortable.
  • Car also does a very hard shift into 2nd some days...when it first shifts to 2nd it will suddenly start to ride the torque converter (engine revs a bit higher) and then suddenly it locks in and it's a jarring sensation. Almost chirps the tires.
  • engine squeak was never diagnosed properly by dealer so it's ongoing (they actually broke my engine cover the last visit months ago and still haven't replaced the part
  • I fixed the squeaking steering wheel/turning indicator stalk myself
  • Original suspension noise still on going and Mazda said I was bottoming out the suspension although that's not the case.
  • I had to remove an underbody panel as they were making this god awful annoying rattle on the highway (dealers weren't able to diagnose this issue, either).
I've had the car to 4 different dealerships and 3 of them have returned my car damaged or with parts physically missing. Thank god it does actually start and drive because I rely on it everyday to commute to work and it is actually very comfortable to drive on the highway.

I've begun the process of trading it but my sales guy never got back to me after I sent all the info. on my car, so I am starting to look at dealerships our home business deals with, unfortunately they are Ford but who knows. I am about to hit the 100,000km milestone, which is exciting. I am planning on doing a 100k update thread.

Side note, I bought myself a wonderful mint 2000 Honda S2000 this summer so that is getting all my attention these days; that and the new garage I am building to put it in. The best part about the S2000 is it doesn't struggle to start, it doesn't make strange knock/pop noises when I turn into driveways and the transmission doesn't do [email protected] up things!
 

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More issues while all the other ones are still on going.

  • Car is struggling to start some days (turns over more than the usual and takes a long time to fire up (this happens on days when the barometric pressure changes, so days that start clear and end up rainy)
  • Transmission/torque converter is doing a surging/slow vibration/bouncing when it engages from being at a full stop. When in bumper to bumper traffic in the city, I either have to have my foot fully on brake or fully off, no in between...the sensation is just brutal. I've started using the auto e-brake function in traffic to help keep the brakes fully engaged on the car when in traffic. The bounce is really annoying and very uncomfortable.
  • Car also does a very hard shift into 2nd some days...when it first shifts to 2nd it will suddenly start to ride the torque converter (engine revs a bit higher) and then suddenly it locks in and it's a jarring sensation. Almost chirps the tires.
  • engine squeak was never diagnosed properly by dealer so it's ongoing (they actually broke my engine cover the last visit months ago and still haven't replaced the part
  • I fixed the squeaking steering wheel/turning indicator stalk myself
  • Original suspension noise still on going and Mazda said I was bottoming out the suspension although that's not the case.
  • I had to remove an underbody panel as they were making this god awful annoying rattle on the highway (dealers weren't able to diagnose this issue, either).
I've had the car to 4 different dealerships and 3 of them have returned my car damaged or with parts physically missing. Thank god it does actually start and drive because I rely on it everyday to commute to work and it is actually very comfortable to drive on the highway.

I've begun the process of trading it but my sales guy never got back to me after I sent all the info. on my car, so I am starting to look at dealerships our home business deals with, unfortunately they are Ford but who knows. I am about to hit the 100,000km milestone, which is exciting. I am planning on doing a 100k update thread.

Side note, I bought myself a wonderful mint 2000 Honda S2000 this summer so that is getting all my attention these days; that and the new garage I am building to put it in. The best part about the S2000 is it doesn't struggle to start, it doesn't make strange knock/pop noises when I turn into driveways and the transmission doesn't do [email protected] up things!
I would strongly recommend changing your transmission fluid and pan filter re the second gear issue.

Sounds to me that you might be pretty hard on your transmission/drivetrain. I could be wrong, but if you are, you've probably worn out one of your shift solenoids which hence causes the rough shift into second gear. Trying playing around with the throttle position you use from a stop, as using a tiny bit more throttle (say revving to 2200rpm instead of 1500rpm) seems to make the transmission alot smoother.

Also, just about time to replace your battery, hence the occasional hard starts.
 

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@GTEyes - This is on a 2018 "6"? Yikes. That sort of misbehavior while moving (other than the slow starts, which is almost-certainly the battery) is very, very likely an ATX that is about to blow up. I'd check the fluid immediately and, if it's either off on level (you have a leak) or discolored change it immediately. But -- the odds are high you have a mechanical problem, likely a sticking solenoid or something similar. That needs fixed immediately or your transmission will almost-certainly detonate in short order and they're NOT cheap.

This should DEFINITELY be under warranty with a vehicle that new.
 

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@GTEyes - This is on a 2018 "6"? Yikes. That sort of misbehavior while moving (other than the slow starts, which is almost-certainly the battery) is very, very likely an ATX that is about to blow up. I'd check the fluid immediately and, if it's either off on level (you have a leak) or discolored change it immediately. But -- the odds are high you have a mechanical problem, likely a sticking solenoid or something similar. That needs fixed immediately or your transmission will almost-certainly detonate in short order and they're NOT cheap.

This should DEFINITELY be under warranty with a vehicle that new.
What he explained sounds like it may be imminent transmission failure, but once the solenoid(s) is checked out and replaced as necessary the trans will be perfectly fine, along with the fluid change. Sounds like hes probably pretty hard on the transmission too.

And, well.. if he doesnt address these things? Eventually the ATX will actually run into serious issues.
 

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I would strongly recommend changing your transmission fluid and pan filter re the second gear issue.

Sounds to me that you might be pretty hard on your transmission/drivetrain. I could be wrong, but if you are, you've probably worn out one of your shift solenoids which hence causes the rough shift into second gear. Trying playing around with the throttle position you use from a stop, as using a tiny bit more throttle (say revving to 2200rpm instead of 1500rpm) seems to make the transmission alot smoother.

Also, just about time to replace your battery, hence the occasional hard starts.
Thanks for chiming in on this. I like hearing what others think of the issues since I've had no luck elsewhere.

I can certainly check the trans. fluid. Thanks for that suggestion. Curious why you and others think I am hard on my transmission? I consider myself a "Granny" driver most days. Car is stored in garage overnight, driven on rural roads for the first 15 minutes of my commute, then highway for 40-50 mins. Drive home has 5-10 minutes of city driving then highway and rural roads home. I drive the car ridiculously easy when it's cold and first started. Only time I do "spirited" driving is when the car is well warmed up.

I have actually tried using different throttle points when cold to see it affects the shifts. Harder pushing cause it to shift and lock into gear, so no issue. ..it's when I drive it really really easy (granny driving) when first started and driven that it does this particular torque converter float then sudden lock into 2nd gear. These, or at least mine, tends to stay in second if you come to a rolling stop and the car rides the torque converter to smooth out the take off as it eases into full 2nd gear, it's this same thing that happens when it's first started that I think is causing the hard shifting issue. After the first couple of stops/starts, the transmission does't do it. so what happens is I cold start the car, let it run for 10-20 seconds...take off from a stop in 1st gear, car goes to shift into 2nd but starts the torque converter slippage to smooth it out and then once I am at speed it thuds into locked converter condition.

The hard starts, I wouldn't say are battery-related as the car turns over fine...it just turns over for a long time and at the regular speed but it doesn't seem to fire up. Again, this happens on days when the car sits all day and the weather goes from nice to rainy...when I try to start it it will turn and turn and almost smart a few times and will eventually weakly fire up...it's hard to explain but hopefully that explains it better than my first time...again, car turns over no problem, it just doesn't want to start and sits and sputters a few times before it does take off. Spark plugs were replaced when they were supposed to be but I am 1/2 wondering if this is due to gummed plugs or weak spark.
 

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@GTEyes - This is on a 2018 "6"? Yikes. That sort of misbehavior while moving (other than the slow starts, which is almost-certainly the battery) is very, very likely an ATX that is about to blow up. I'd check the fluid immediately and, if it's either off on level (you have a leak) or discolored change it immediately. But -- the odds are high you have a mechanical problem, likely a sticking solenoid or something similar. That needs fixed immediately or your transmission will almost-certainly detonate in short order and they're NOT cheap.

This should DEFINITELY be under warranty with a vehicle that new.
Yes, this is my 2018 which I waited a long time to buy. I was the first guy in my region to have a new 6 Signature, the dealer brought it in specifically for me and I bought it on the spot. I was so excited when I bought it. I felt like it was the nicest car I had ever purchased. Unfortunately, I've had nothing but issues with it from the day I bought it. There are so many threads I've had on here about it. Just talking about it all has me fired up again.

Transmission fluid check is on my list of things to do. The transmission in the car has always acted like I have described from the day I bought it, shift-wise...the shudder in stop and go traffic is new as of the summer, at least that's when I've noticed it as my job has me working in the city now so I am in bumper to bumper traffic more than I was before.

I have a service appointment on Friday so i will raise the transmission issue but since the car won't be cold they won't be able to reproduce the issue...I may be able to get it to do the shudder thing when lightly holding the brake but it's a gamble if I can reproduce it.

I am just as surprised writing this as you are reading it but I am so absolutely tired of problem solving and troubleshooting issues on this car. I have spent weeks upon weeks trying to diagnose other issues because the dealerships have been next to useless identifying them. Dealers have had the car for entire WEEKS to try and fix issues and they give it back to me the way I dropped it off....it's pathetic. I know I sound like a troll or something but I am being sincere about this. I've tried every avenue Mazda Canada has to get these things fixed but it just comes down to the dealers being the ones to fix it and none have been able to identify the issues so they can't fix it. The dealers have done so much damage to my car that I don't trust any of them any longer. Most recently, when I fixed my turning indicator squeak I found where the Tech. who replaced the clock spring, which wasn't required by the way, used a [email protected] screw driver to pry open the top and bottom steering column covers and bent the shit out of the plastic and scratched it all up, it was hidden behind the wheel so I wouldn't have seen it unless I did the work I did...and that was their "Master Mazda Technician" who was doing that work. He also installed my Apple CarPlay kit and scratched my screen while doing that...This was also the dealership that accused my non-existent children of breaking the Signature metal/plastic seat back trim on my back seats...I honestly can't make this stuff up. That Service Manager has since been fired but it wasn't because of me, but I can see why he was fired because he was such a patronizing prick. I've even written the dealer Principal from where I purchased the car to tell them about how shitty of an experience i've had with this car and not a peep from him.

I literally have a book of records of dates, dealer visits, condition the car was returned, etc...

I am hoping to be in a better position to trade my car in the spring as I will have a good amount of the car paid off and will only need to cough up a small amount of down payment money when I trade it in on something. I don't even know what I would trade it on because I bought it with the thought I was going to have it for much longer than 2 years. Like I said, i was ready to do the deal about 3-4 weeks ago on a cx5 but my sales guy never got back to me and I have no reason to follow up with him because well, to be honest, him doing that just gives me an excuse to walk away. My hope was to get this one paid off and then get one of the new rear wheel drive I-6 Mazda 6s when they come out but I am scared to own another Mazda product after this experience.

I was going to save some of this for the 100,000 km update thread, but I am all fired up now!
 

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I own an MTX but two of my friends have ATX 6s and I've had a loaner ATX 3 (same gearbox, basically) as well; exactly ZERO of them have had any harshness or misbehavior whatsoever. That gearbox in your car has problems. As for the hard starting I'd be looking at fuel pressure before anything else, and I'd also do some careful checking for ground and similar issues -- electrical ground problems will play all sorts of hell with the TCM (module that controls the transmission, it's inside the gearbox) but SHOULD throw a code. Of course "should" doesn't mean "will."

There's no way I'd put up with any sort of misbehavior on the gearbox in this vehicle -- it's not normal or acceptable and neither is the hard starting. Never seen that on any of the "6"s I'm aware of either EXCEPT when you've got a dying battery and it's pretty obvious as it rolls over slower (that's not the car's fault though!)
 

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I own an MTX but two of my friends have ATX 6s and I've had a loaner ATX 3 (same gearbox, basically) as well; exactly ZERO of them have had any harshness or misbehavior whatsoever. That gearbox in your car has problems. As for the hard starting I'd be looking at fuel pressure before anything else, and I'd also do some careful checking for ground and similar issues -- electrical ground problems will play all sorts of hell with the TCM (module that controls the transmission, it's inside the gearbox) but SHOULD throw a code. Of course "should" doesn't mean "will."

There's no way I'd put up with any sort of misbehavior on the gearbox in this vehicle -- it's not normal or acceptable and neither is the hard starting. Never seen that on any of the "6"s I'm aware of either EXCEPT when you've got a dying battery and it's pretty obvious as it rolls over slower (that's not the car's fault though!)
Ever since the hard starts started happening i've had my phone out to record it..and not once has it did it since I've starting doing that..of course!

I do recall thinking the car's transmission was a little wonky from the get go but I thought it was because I was used to my MTX in my Mazda3. The starting in 2nd or having the car slip the torque converter, is that beviour you or others have seen? For example, if I come up to a stop sign, briefly stop or not even come to a complete stop and lightly on the throttle, the car will stay in second gear but allow some slippage with the torque converter until the car is at speed that's close to where it would be if it were in second and then you can almost not tell that the full torque converter is locking in. To me, that seems normal...fuel saving measure.

We are hijacking this poor guy's thread about buying a CPO'd Mazda6...speaking of that, no dealers within 500 km of my house do the CPO'd program. There is nothing available in the Atlantic Canada area!
 

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Thanks for chiming in on this. I like hearing what others think of the issues since I've had no luck elsewhere.

I can certainly check the trans. fluid. Thanks for that suggestion. Curious why you and others think I am hard on my transmission? I consider myself a "Granny" driver most days. Car is stored in garage overnight, driven on rural roads for the first 15 minutes of my commute, then highway for 40-50 mins. Drive home has 5-10 minutes of city driving then highway and rural roads home. I drive the car ridiculously easy when it's cold and first started. Only time I do "spirited" driving is when the car is well warmed up.

I have actually tried using different throttle points when cold to see it affects the shifts. Harder pushing cause it to shift and lock into gear, so no issue. ..it's when I drive it really really easy (granny driving) when first started and driven that it does this particular torque converter float then sudden lock into 2nd gear. These, or at least mine, tends to stay in second if you come to a rolling stop and the car rides the torque converter to smooth out the take off as it eases into full 2nd gear, it's this same thing that happens when it's first started that I think is causing the hard shifting issue. After the first couple of stops/starts, the transmission does't do it. so what happens is I cold start the car, let it run for 10-20 seconds...take off from a stop in 1st gear, car goes to shift into 2nd but starts the torque converter slippage to smooth it out and then once I am at speed it thuds into locked converter condition.
Again, everything you are explaining is textbook behaviour of a faulty solenoid - particularly the one controlling 1-2 upshifts. The fairly worn trans fluid only makes this issue worse. Typically the only time I ever see symptoms like this points towards higher mileage and or abused transmission. Unfortunately I seem to be seeing some sort of decrease in quality on models built after 2017. Ticker is 100% percent right.

I very strongly suggest you just take it to a transmission shop and have them drop/replace the pan and replace the 1-2 shift solenoid Immediately. If you contain to drive like this you Will Mess up the transmission. I would not even think of wasting my time with the Mazda dealers on this one. Just get it done and you will thank me. You can make a transmission with twice the mileage feel like new again by replacing all of them.

Be easy on that transmission, Especially when it's still cold but under all circumstances I would highly recommend to avoid causing the torque converter slippage scenario at all costs.
 

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Again, everything you are explaining is textbook behaviour of a faulty solenoid - particularly the one controlling 1-2 upshifts. The fairly worn trans fluid only makes this issue worse. Typically the only time I ever see symptoms like this points towards higher mileage and or abused transmission. Unfortunately I seem to be seeing some sort of decrease in quality on models built after 2017. Ticker is 100% percent right.

I very strongly suggest you just take it to a transmission shop and have them drop/replace the pan and replace the 1-2 shift solenoid Immediately. If you contain to drive like this you Will Mess up the transmission. I would not even think of wasting my time with the Mazda dealers on this one. Just get it done and you will thank me. You can make a transmission with twice the mileage feel like new again by replacing all of them.

Be easy on that transmission, Especially when it's still cold but under all circumstances I would highly recommend to avoid causing the torque converter slippage scenario at all costs.
The car has done this from the day I bought it, though. If the situation was as dire as you are describing, I am surprised it hasn't sh!t the bed yet. The car is almost 2 years old now and is pushing 100k. As I mentioned, I am always gentle with the car when it's cold but unfortunately that's when it does a lot of this behaviour. This is all really good information and I appreciate your input immensely. I tried to catch the slippage on video this morning but It isn't a good video. I will get one and start a thread on it. Thanks again!
 

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The car has done this from the day I bought it, though. If the situation was as dire as you are describing, I am surprised it hasn't sh!t the bed yet. The car is almost 2 years old now and is pushing 100k. As I mentioned, I am always gentle with the car when it's cold but unfortunately that's when it does a lot of this behaviour. This is all really good information and I appreciate your input immensely. I tried to catch the slippage on video this morning but It isn't a good video. I will get one and start a thread on it. Thanks again!
It it's as bad as you say it is, only a matter of time before the trans runs into more serious issues, as at your mileage a new pan filter+fluid is needed.
 

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The car has done this from the day I bought it, though. If the situation was as dire as you are describing, I am surprised it hasn't sh!t the bed yet. The car is almost 2 years old now and is pushing 100k. As I mentioned, I am always gentle with the car when it's cold but unfortunately that's when it does a lot of this behaviour. This is all really good information and I appreciate your input immensely. I tried to catch the slippage on video this morning but It isn't a good video. I will get one and start a thread on it. Thanks again!
Well that's definitely not good, and it should not be doing it. These ATXs have an excellent reputation but unfortunately even the best occasionally have a bad one come off the line. This specific transmission, in addition to the solenoids that control it, also has pressure sensors in the valve body that, in theory, should allow the TCM to know if the solenoids are sticking or otherwise not functioning properly, so I'd be very surprised if there isn't a code in the unit from when it misbehaves. The other thing that can cause this sort of misbehavior is an intermittent power problem to the TCM but that should DEFINITELY log a code.

I've never ridden in one of these cars that has exhibited any sort of ATX misbehavior and, as I note, while mine is an MTX two of my friends own the ATX versions of the same vehicle and I've been in both, plus driving a few of the "3"s that have the same gearbox, and none of them have ever done anything like this either. At minimum I'd pull the ATX dipstick and see what the fluid looks like and whether the level is correct, but if you have a sticking solenoid or something of that sort it is typically either the solenoid itself or the valve body is wonked and causing the solenoid piston to stick in the bore.
 

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I traded a 2018 Accord Touring for a 2019 Gran Touring Reserve. The dash had been out 5 times for repair. The last time they had the car for a week and i did not make it out of the parking lot - different issues. They never did get the dash stuff right. I will never own another Honda. Nuff said.
 

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To the OP... and slightly off-topic: your Chevy SS 6MT is probably one of the nicest cars I could imagine owning.☺...
I don't believe North America got the 6MT (maybe 2 or 3...), only the ATX.

EDIT: apparently they are here in America. There is a 3year old one with a 6MT for over $40,000
 

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I don't believe North America got the 6MT (maybe 2 or 3...), only the ATX.

EDIT: apparently they are here in America. There is a 3year old one with a 6MT for over $40,000
Yeah, the SS is definitely a frequent holy Grail car for the manual crowd (that Cadillac wagon is another one that comes to mind). They're stupid expensive if you find one though! I'd love to beat on...er... gently drive either one!
 

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I traded a 2018 Accord Touring for a 2019 Gran Touring Reserve. The dash had been out 5 times for repair. The last time they had the car for a week and i did not make it out of the parking lot - different issues. They never did get the dash stuff right. I will never own another Honda. Nuff said.
Probably because the newer Honda's are built in the states rather than Japan. Honda's are still quality japanese vehicles, minus the fuel dilution issues associated with the 1.5 and 2.0T

We've had members complaining of random little issues and quality related nuisances on 2018 and some 2019 models. They seem to be more solid before 2017.
 
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