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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone in here can give me a price they paid for a custom install on their 2004 6 with the BOSE. I want my Alpine 9815 installed, as well as 2 amps, 4 speakers, and subs. Anyone had something similar done and have a price or time it took them to complete? Trying to get an idea of how much time I can spend and whether or not I want to chance messing something up seeing how I will have to remove doors to re-wire, as well as seats to take out bose amp, and dash to install new metra-kit.

I know you can add an amp and sub to the stock Headunit. But could I add a second amp + 4 speakers to the system and still keep the factory head unit???


Thanks
 

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I was wondering if anyone in here can give me a price they paid for a custom install on their 2004 6 with the BOSE. I want my Alpine 9815 installed, as well as 2 amps, 4 speakers, and subs. Anyone had something similar done and have a price or time it took them to complete? Trying to get an idea of how much time I can spend and whether or not I want to chance messing something up seeing how I will have to remove doors to re-wire, as well as seats to take out bose amp, and dash to install new metra-kit.

I know you can add an amp and sub to the stock Headunit. But could I add a second amp + 4 speakers to the system and still keep the factory head unit???
Thanks
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Prepare to be shocked at the estimates you get from shops. My experience with a similar upgrade is well over $1000 plus wires and connectors. Most shops are less accomodating when you do not buy the equipment from them. :(
Do it yourself and put the money into the equipment (or a new set of rims :D ). The install is very straight forward. There are many links and threads to assist you (like the one in my sig, or the one Jared is currently doing). Besides who is going to care more about the quality of your install than you. I have LIMITED experience with this kind of stuff and I had very few problems and am very happy with the results!
Good luck.
 

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at the end of the day your going to be a lot happier if you did it yourself. plus you might learn a thing or two. when i installed my subs originally i had NO clue how to wire stuff, etc. now i have a pretty good understanding of where stuff goes and if a problem occurs i can fix it. find one of your buddies to help you out.
 

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Listen to these two, try to do it yourself. I work at an unamed blue shirted install bay and labor alone will be around $500-$600, and thats with a Mazda 6 discount. Look at Cherryspeed's install-awesome! Especially considering it's his first one. There are many knowledgable and helpful folks on this site. It is all the more rewarding to do it all yourself. But, you may live in an apartment like I do and have no resources to do it yourself, if that is the case you will probably be spending around a grand.
Good Luck
 

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low price figure 35/hr for install, that's what it was 6 years ago when I actually considered having someone else do my install.

metra kit 200
custom box 300-500
figure at least a full day or two install 7-14 hrs @35 245-490

then paying full retail at the shop, and figure at least another 200 for wiring (I've spent that much many times over)

so before you you even look at a speaker or anything else, your over a grand.

I've done all my installs myself, since I was 17. if you have basic woodworking skills you can build a box, running wires is time consuming, but not difficult.
 

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I am going to go against the grain here and say unless you are willing to put alot of time and effort into the installation you are better off getting a local dealer (preferably one who wins awards, does show class installation etc) to install it as it can make up to 50% of the sound of your system.

Even if you have expensive equipment it will sound crap if the staging if incorrect, sound deadening incomplete, sub box un tuned etc etc. Also alot of equipment voids the warrenty if not installed professionally.

Most car audio forums SUGGEST spending decent money to put it in (at a very reputable installer of course), or putting alot of time in yourself which will save you money and perhaps be very rewarding :)
 

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I am going to go against the grain here and say unless you are willing to put alot of time and effort into the installation you are better off getting a local dealer (preferably one who wins awards, does show class installation etc) to install it as it can make up to 50% of the sound of your system.

Even if you have expensive equipment it will sound crap if the staging if incorrect, sound deadening incomplete, sub box un tuned etc etc. Also alot of equipment voids the warrenty if not installed professionally.

Most car audio forums SUGGEST spending decent money to put it in (at a very reputable installer of course), or putting alot of time in yourself which will save you money and perhaps be very rewarding :)
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The great thing about this forum is the varied opinins you get. If everyone said the same thing all are cars would look, drive, and sound the same.
Honestly though, at least in the DC area, the current state of car audio shops is disgraceful. I visited about eight differtent shops, a few with plenty of trophies, and never once ran into one installer who had any interest in doing a quality install and taking the time to actually work on things like imaging or staging. Not one installer said they would run new wires to my door speakers..."it wasn't possible".
If you find a shop, and an installer, you know is reputable and you can trust....go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Honestly though, at least in the DC area, the current state of car audio shops is disgraceful. I visited about eight differtent shops, a few with plenty of trophies, and never once ran into one installer who had any interest in doing a quality install and taking the time to actually work on things like imaging or staging. Not one installer said they would run new wires to my door speakers..."it wasn't possible".
If you find a shop, and an installer, you know is reputable and you can trust....go for it.
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That is not good news for me. I live in the Annapolis area, so looks like I am SOL...

I know I posted this in another thread, but do you see any problems with replacing the BOSE 4-channel and speakers with my speakers and an eclipse 4 channel. I was thinking of just removing the BOSE 4-channel and sticking the Eclispe in its spot so no re-running of speaker wires would be needed. Overheating is the only thing I could think of, you think it would be a problem?
 

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The great thing about this forum is the varied opinins you get. If everyone said the same thing all are cars would look, drive, and sound the same.
Honestly though, at least in the DC area, the current state of car audio shops is disgraceful. I visited about eight differtent shops, a few with plenty of trophies, and never once ran into one installer who had any interest in doing a quality install and taking the time to actually work on things like imaging or staging. Not one installer said they would run new wires to my door speakers..."it wasn't possible".
If you find a shop, and an installer, you know is reputable and you can trust....go for it.
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Ah I see! I am from the other side of the world (Perth, Australia) and although there are definently alot of fools around who call themselves car audio professionals, there are also alot of dedicated people with real advice and expertise.

May be a bit hard to drive your 6 over here for installation but :D

That being said, if you are still keen on having if professionally installed fearturtle03 there may be people from car audio only web forums that can help you out on where to go. Additionally, in Australia there has just been an industry group started up whereby business's apply for membership and must go through a stringent process to ensure quality of equipment and installation. If any problems do arise, the industry group can act as an ombudsman for any problems you had, major or minor (in fact there is a GUARENTEE on quality from these installers). So perhaps there is a similar group in your area.
 

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I got a quote to put in the following:
4 channel amp
2 channel amp
2 10" subs
4 6.5 door speakers
1 crossover
2 fiberglassed sub boxes ( to fit in the wheelwells )
all the wiring to go with it

$3500 total

I just about shit myself when I heard that! BTW all the stuff was memphis brand.

So I just put in some LOC's and used the sony amp and subs I had (as crappy as they are)
 

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I got a quote to put in the following:
4 channel amp
2 channel amp
2 10" subs
4 6.5 door speakers
1 crossover
2 fiberglassed sub boxes ( to fit in the wheelwells )
all the wiring to go with it

$3500 total

I just about shit myself when I heard that! BTW all the stuff was memphis brand.

So I just put in some LOC's and used the sony amp and subs I had (as crappy as they are)
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I fell ya. The quote I got from a local Tweeter guy was $6ooo for the same system I put in for half that...ouch! I to had to change my shorts.

About the amp under seat - I honestly don't see any problem with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got a quote to put in the following:
4 channel amp
2 channel amp
2 10" subs
4 6.5 door speakers
1 crossover
2 fiberglassed sub boxes ( to fit in the wheelwells )
all the wiring to go with it

$3500 total

I just about shit myself when I heard that! BTW all the stuff was memphis brand.

So I just put in some LOC's and used the sony amp and subs I had (as crappy as they are)
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So we are definatly talking atleast $1000, for just pure install then...yikes.

But if the amp fits under the front seat it will save me tons of trouble, seeing how I will not have to run speaker wire to each door now. Be nice just to swap out equipment with only minor changes to that. Now I just hope the Metra Kit does not cause too many problems, which it does not look like it should.

Also what size fuse do you all use for your amps when running them to the battery?
 

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Usually its quite a bit more to get stuff instead under the seats as its a bit more of a hassle usually. Cheaper to get boot (trunk?) mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Usually its quite a bit more to get stuff instead under the seats as its a bit more of a hassle usually. Cheaper to get boot (trunk?) mounts.
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But if I place the AMP in the trunk then I will have to also run wires back to the trunk, which would be an extra pain in the ass
 

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But if I place the AMP in the trunk then I will have to also run wires back to the trunk, which would be an extra pain in the ass
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That isn't always the case. Our door sills have alot of room to run wires and I don't know about you but I like being able to see my amps without craning my neck under the seat, that is why I put them in the hatch/trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That isn't always the case. Our door sills have alot of room to run wires and I don't know about you but I like being able to see my amps without craning my neck under the seat, that is why I put them in the hatch/trunk.
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Yeah I can see that being a pain in the ass having to look under the seat everytime you needed to adjust... I assume you still took off the door panels to run the wire though?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am getting ready to do the install of my Alpine HU, 2 amps, speakers, subs and dynamat this weekend. I just wanted to make sure that replacing the factory Bose amp under the passenger seat with my eclipse 4 channel would not be a problem. From what I have gathered all I will need to do is swap them out is...Run RCA's and remote turnon to my HU, power to my battery, and then the speaker wire part is where I am a little unsure of...

Can I just unhook the speaker wire that runs into the BOSE amp, cutt off any connector they may use? and then hook up the speaker wire to my amp? I am hoiping that the exsisting speaker wire will be compatible to use on my JL 5.25 speakers and on my eclipse amp???

Thanks and wish me luck...nothing ever goes as planned.
 

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I am getting ready to do the install of my Alpine HU, 2 amps, speakers, subs and dynamat this weekend. I just wanted to make sure that replacing the factory Bose amp under the passenger seat with my eclipse 4 channel would not be a problem. From what I have gathered all I will need to do is swap them out is...Run RCA's and remote turnon to my HU, power to my battery, and then the speaker wire part is where I am a little unsure of...

Can I just unhook the speaker wire that runs into the BOSE amp, cutt off any connector they may use? and then hook up the speaker wire to my amp? I am hoiping that the exsisting speaker wire will be compatible to use on my JL 5.25 speakers and on my eclipse amp???

Thanks and wish me luck...nothing ever goes as planned.
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Some on here may disagree, but based on your system, and my personal experience, I would suggest using the stock speaker wiring for the doors. This will save you a ton of time and headaches.
The crosovers for the door speakers can be mounted in the doors themselves. Wire the output of the crossover to the stock midrange speaker wire then the crossover goes to the speakers with new wiring. The tweeter wiring is not needed because it simply piggybacks in the door to the midrange wiring.
Wire the sub with new speaker wire from the amp to the sub.
And for clarifacation the speker leads are running OUT of the bose amp, not into as you said. The inputs to the amp (rf, rr. lf, lr) are the low level outputs from the HU you convert to RCA's.
Check out the end of jareds latest post, he maps it out perfectly.
Good luck!

PS Glad you decided to do it yourself!
 

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Some on here may disagree, but based on your system, and my personal experience, I would suggest using the stock speaker wiring for the doors. This will save you a ton of time and headaches.
The crosovers for the door speakers can be mounted in the doors themselves. Wire the output of the crossover to the stock midrange speaker wire then the crossover goes to the speakers with new wiring. The tweeter wiring is not needed because it simply piggybacks in the door to the midrange wiring.
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Some questions for you..

So you're sure the speaker wire that goes to the stock non-Bose midrange is full-range? I noticed that the speaker is appears to be a full-range dual cone..

I'm trying to avoid installing my crossovers in the doors and I really don't want to mess around with the door molex. Running the wire to the tweeters is no problem - I'm making custom a-pillars. But running the wire to the midrange, I may just cut the factory wiring behind the head unit, tap it with the LOC, and splice the midrange signal back into the factory wiring.. thoughts?
 

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Some questions for you..

So you're sure the speaker wire that goes to the stock non-Bose midrange is full-range? I noticed that the speaker is appears to be a full-range dual cone..

I'm trying to avoid installing my crossovers in the doors and I really don't want to mess around with the door molex. Running the wire to the tweeters is no problem - I'm making custom a-pillars. But running the wire to the midrange, I may just cut the factory wiring behind the head unit, tap it with the LOC, and splice the midrange signal back into the factory wiring.. thoughts?
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First, the speakers all recieve a full range signal. In the bose setup (doesnt the non bose have tweeters in the door sail panels as well?) the signal is sent to the speakers full range and the individual speakers have resistiors or what not to roll off the frequencies. When I took the doors apart you could see the same color wire (from the outputs) running to the midrange and then a piggyback wire runnig from there to the tweeter.

"I may just cut the factory wiring behind the head unit, tap it with the LOC, and splice the midrange signal back into the factory wiring.. "

This sounds like the way you want to head. I would splice onto the speaker leads, and run two sets of wires to a place like the trunk, where you can mount the amp, loc and crosovers - and then do all the splicing from there. Run power from the battery and use a good common ground for all of it. Then you run the outputs of the crossover back through the facory wires for the mids and run seperate wires for the tweeters. The rear door speakers could use the factory wiring.
Seems complicated, but the molex connectors in the doors area bitch.
 
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