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04 Mazda 6 s 3.0l Atzena
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So my Mazda 6s 3.0l has about 198k miles I just recently bought it. It leaks oil, a lot! The only work i have done so far is I replaced the spark plugs (but i think I used the wrong ones, I'll post the part number when I locate the box tomorrow) and coil packs because I noticed 2 coil packs had already been replaced by the previous owner and I wanted to do them all, so the car studders upon acceleration and just has poor power when it was running, I was driving on the freeway and my serpentine belt shredded halfway width wise but did not break the belt, forgive me for my idiotic decisions but I kept driving even tho I heard it flapping around because the noise eventually went away but after about a half mile the rpm gauge hit zero and the car was still in motion, i could hear the engine but had no power and could not get it to start. I replaced the serpentine belt even tho I knew that wasn't causing my no start condition, also id like to add that the car had a problem where it would just shut off while driving occasionally but would normally start right back up. The car had error codes but I made the regretful decision of clearing the codes hoping the car would run after. I'm a newb, I admit it. So I couldn't tell you what they were because now there are no codes stored. I know one had to do with the o2 sensor not responding or something of that nature and a camshaft position sensor code and a variable valve timing code I'm pretty sure, which probably doesn't really help because I need the exact codes specifically. So now the car has been sitting because I don't have the money to just dump into it hoping it fixes it I wanna know exactly what to fix before I buy the parts because I can do the work myself. I've read other posts that had similar problems, most say the timing chain which is what I'm pretty sure it is, but I've also read something about the EFI fuse or something like that. I just haven't had the chance to really look into it or to take it apart because its parked in the street and I have to do the work in my driveway which is up a steep incline before it levels out so I have to wait till I can get someone to pull it up my driveway with a truck. But any advice would be greatly appreciated in advanced. Also my traction control light is always on as well as my abs light.
 

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Welcome to the board and to Mazda ownership. Let's start there.

It seems you have a LOT going on with your car. You've already stated that you are a newb and I will leave it there, because we all were at some point. Two days with my first car and I managed to temporarily screw it up by washing the engine and spraying water on the distributor. An experienced friend passing by saw me freaking out and helped me. After that I had enough confidence to tackle almost every job on that car myself. And so shall you. Let's continue.

You will notice, first and foremost, that when most people post here, they will put new ideas in new paragraphs. That helps us to read what you are saying more clearly and to respond more effectively. That's a skill you will learn to adopt. I will try to comment as best I can, on each point you raise.

So my Mazda 6s 3.0l has about 198k miles I just recently bought it. It leaks oil, a lot! The only work i have done so far is I replaced the spark plugs (but i think I used the wrong ones, I'll post the part number when I locate the box tomorrow) and coil packs because I noticed 2 coil packs had already been replaced by the previous owner and I wanted to do them all
You have the 3.0L V6 which has 6 coil packs. Did you replace all 6? When it comes to spark plugs in modern cars, it is important to buy the correct ones because modern engines are very sensitive to heat range and gap. Iridium plugs, which your engine calls for, come pre-gapped and cannot be gapped using any tool. Buying the correct one for your car eliminates the possibility of this being an issue.

I was driving on the freeway and my serpentine belt shredded halfway width wise but did not break the belt, forgive me for my idiotic decisions but I kept driving even tho I heard it flapping around because the noise eventually went away but after about a half mile the rpm gauge hit zero and the car was still in motion, i could hear the engine but had no power and could not get it to start.
This situation was caused because your alternator was no longer charging the battery and the battery eventually went dead. This would have caused the ECU and the fuel pump to quit working. That means the engine would shut down. A battery dying is not a good thing. Sometimes recharging it will not be enough because cells on the inside might have given up the ghost. At that point it may be strong enough to run the stereo or turn on lights, but might not have the power to run the starter, fuel pump, and the electronics simultaneously. Hence: crank-no-start. If this is the case, then you may very well be able to replace the battery with a new one and the car should be good to go. Technically. You still have the other issues to take care of.

I know one had to do with the o2 sensor not responding or something of that nature and a camshaft position sensor code and a variable valve timing code I'm pretty sure, which probably doesn't really help because I need the exact codes specifically.
The codes might still be present in the memory of the ECU but you would need a higher level scan tool to see them. I'm not sure that ForScan (our favourite, low-cost, 3rd party dealer-level scan tool) can see them, however. I've tried, to no avail. That said, whatever is causing these issues is probably still there. Changing the oxygen sensor is easy and fairly cheap, but will almost never cause you to have a crank-no-start issue. The issue with the camshaft sensor and the VVT issue may be related in some way and might also be an easy and cheap fix. There is a distinct possibility that the driveability issues might be found and solved right here.

I've read other posts that had similar problems, most say the timing chain which is what I'm pretty sure it is, but I've also read something about the EFI fuse or something like that.
The EFI fuse is either in tact or it is blown. There is no in-between or intermittency. If it is blown, then no workey. If it is in tact, then workey. No mystery there.

Also my traction control light is always on as well as my abs light.
This could actually be just a wheel speed (ABS) sensor which is required by the ABS, traction control, and cruise control. This is a cheap fix. You will usually need a higher level scan tool to determine which one(s) is/are bad.

If you are planning to work on this car yourself there are a few things you are going to need.
1. You will need a service manual. There are several ones that can be found online at no charge, or you can find copies of the Mazda service manuals on eBay for cheap enough (I paid $60 for the two volumes I have for my 2013). Don't even waste your time with the Chiltons and Haynes rubbish.
2. The next thing you will need is a good scan tool. I invested less than $100 on getting ForScan and a good OBDII-USB interface device. I could have done it all for less than $50 (there is a free version of ForScan and interface devices can be as cheap as $20 on eBay) but I'm not screwing around here. Those option limit you in what you can see and do. You can start there, of course, and you will probably be able to see as much as you need to see to fix the majority of things, but I've graduated past that stage.
3. You will need good tools. Don't go buying all kinds of things that you don't even know what they are for. Start off with a good set of METRIC spanners (wrenches). Do not even waste your time with sets that have both metric and standard sizes. The only standard bolt on these cars is the spark plug. Get a set of sockets, again, with metric sizes. Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat), pliers (bird beak, and standard) are also handy to have. A decent floor jack helps too. Harbor Freight sells decent stuff at reasonable prices, as does Walmart. These are starter tools and if you so chose you can always go up to more expensive tools later on.

Okay. That's my $0.02 for now. I hope that helps get your head wrapped around what you are setting yourself up for. Good luck and have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the board and to Mazda ownership. Let's start there.

It seems you have a LOT going on with your car. You've already stated that you are a newb and I will leave it there, because we all were at some point. Two days with my first car and I managed to temporarily screw it up by washing the engine and spraying water on the distributor. An experienced friend passing by saw me freaking out and helped me. After that I had enough confidence to tackle almost every job on that car myself. And so shall you. Let's continue.

You will notice, first and foremost, that when most people post here, they will put new ideas in new paragraphs. That helps us to read what you are saying more clearly and to respond more effectively. That's a skill you will learn to adopt. I will try to comment as best I can, on each point you raise.


You have the 3.0L V6 which has 6 coil packs. Did you replace all 6? When it comes to spark plugs in modern cars, it is important to buy the correct ones because modern engines are very sensitive to heat range and gap. Iridium plugs, which your engine calls for, come pre-gapped and cannot be gapped using any tool. Buying the correct one for your car eliminates the possibility of this being an issue.


This situation was caused because your alternator was no longer charging the battery and the battery eventually went dead. This would have caused the ECU and the fuel pump to quit working. That means the engine would shut down. A battery dying is not a good thing. Sometimes recharging it will not be enough because cells on the inside might have given up the ghost. At that point it may be strong enough to run the stereo or turn on lights, but might not have the power to run the starter, fuel pump, and the electronics simultaneously. Hence: crank-no-start. If this is the case, then you may very well be able to replace the battery with a new one and the car should be good to go. Technically. You still have the other issues to take care of.


The codes might still be present in the memory of the ECU but you would need a higher level scan tool to see them. I'm not sure that ForScan (our favourite, low-cost, 3rd party dealer-level scan tool) can see them, however. I've tried, to no avail. That said, whatever is causing these issues is probably still there. Changing the oxygen sensor is easy and fairly cheap, but will almost never cause you to have a crank-no-start issue. The issue with the camshaft sensor and the VVT issue may be related in some way and might also be an easy and cheap fix. There is a distinct possibility that the driveability issues might be found and solved right here.


The EFI fuse is either in tact or it is blown. There is no in-between or intermittency. If it is blown, then no workey. If it is in tact, then workey. No mystery there.


This could actually be just a wheel speed (ABS) sensor which is required by the ABS, traction control, and cruise control. This is a cheap fix. You will usually need a higher level scan tool to determine which one(s) is/are bad.

If you are planning to work on this car yourself there are a few things you are going to need.
1. You will need a service manual. There are several ones that can be found online at no charge, or you can find copies of the Mazda service manuals on eBay for cheap enough (I paid $60 for the two volumes I have for my 2013). Don't even waste your time with the Chiltons and Haynes rubbish.
2. The next thing you will need is a good scan tool. I invested less than $100 on getting ForScan and a good OBDII-USB interface device. I could have done it all for less than $50 (there is a free version of ForScan and interface devices can be as cheap as $20 on eBay) but I'm not screwing around here. Those option limit you in what you can see and do. You can start there, of course, and you will probably be able to see as much as you need to see to fix the majority of things, but I've graduated past that stage.
3. You will need good tools. Don't go buying all kinds of things that you don't even know what they are for. Start off with a good set of METRIC spanners (wrenches). Do not even waste your time with sets that have both metric and standard sizes. The only standard bolt on these cars is the spark plug. Get a set of sockets, again, with metric sizes. Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat), pliers (bird beak, and standard) are also handy to have. A decent floor jack helps too. Harbor Freight sells decent stuff at reasonable prices, as does Walmart. These are starter tools and if you so chose you can always go up to more expensive tools later on.

Okay. That's my $0.02 for now. I hope that helps get your head wrapped around what you are setting yourself up for. Good luck and have fun!
Thank you for the reply I really appreciate it.

You have the 3.0L V6 which has 6 coil packs. Did you replace all 6? When it comes to spark plugs in modern cars, it is important to buy the correct ones because modern engines are very sensitive to heat range and gap. Iridium plugs, which your engine calls for, come pre-gapped and cannot be gapped using any tool. Buying the correct one for your car eliminates the possibility of this being an issue.
I replaced all 6 coil and as for the spark plugs I looked up and they were the right heat range and all the only difference was they were made for an suv but still the right type and heat range. I have to find the box. But I didn't adjust the gap at all. I do know they are pre gapped. Thank you for the input tho. I could always be doing something wrong. I'm not trying to sound like a know it all or anything.

This situation was caused because your alternator was no longer charging the battery and the battery eventually went dead. This would have caused the ECU and the fuel pump to quit working. That means the engine would shut down. A battery dying is not a good thing. Sometimes recharging it will not be enough because cells on the inside might have given up the ghost. At that point it may be strong enough to run the stereo or turn on lights, but might not have the power to run the starter, fuel pump, and the electronics simultaneously. Hence: crank-no-start. If this is the case, then you may very well be able to replace the battery with a new one and the car should be good to go. Technically. You still have the other issues to take care of.
See the thing of it is the serpentine belt was still wrapped around every pulley so I'm pretty sure the alternator pulley was still spinning, however I will try another battery because that's not a bad Idea. I've been using the battery that was in the Mazda in my Honda and I've noticed with the key off the voltage is at 11.23 volts where as another battery reads 12.53 volts in the same car. 12.53 is normal right?

The codes might still be present in the memory of the ECU but you would need a higher level scan tool to see them. I'm not sure that ForScan (our favourite, low-cost, 3rd party dealer-level scan tool) can see them, however. I've tried, to no avail. That said, whatever is causing these issues is probably still there. Changing the oxygen sensor is easy and fairly cheap, but will almost never cause you to have a crank-no-start issue. The issue with the camshaft sensor and the VVT issue may be related in some way and might also be an easy and cheap fix. There is a distinct possibility that the driveability issues might be found and solved right here.
I have checked the codes with the Ease Diagnostic professional scan suite obd2 scanner with no luck, i also already have the 04 Mazda 6 workshop manual, the engine workshop manual for AJ model engine and i also have the Alldata repair 11.53 software on my laptop. Along with a complete set of craftsman tools, air compressor, pneumatic impact wrench, jack and jack stands, a cherry picker and an engine stand but i will definitely check the sensors you mention because I have not done that yet.

The EFI fuse is either in tact or it is blown. There is no in-between or intermittency. If it is blown, then no workey. If it is in tact, then workey. No mystery there.


This could actually be just a wheel speed (ABS) sensor which is required by the ABS, traction control, and cruise control. This is a cheap fix. You will usually need a higher level scan tool to determine which one(s) is/are bad
So the car won't even turn over of the EFI fuse is blown?

Also,
I'm actually missing the passenger front abs sensor.


Thanks again for your 0.02 cents. I really appreciate you taking the time to reply as you did.
 

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See the thing of it is the serpentine belt was still wrapped around every pulley so I'm pretty sure the alternator pulley was still spinning, however I will try another battery because that's not a bad Idea. I've been using the battery that was in the Mazda in my Honda and I've noticed with the key off the voltage is at 11.23 volts where as another battery reads 12.53 volts in the same car. 12.53 is normal right?
11.23 is waaaaay too low for the resting voltage of a 12 volt automotive battery. It should be minimum 12.2.

I have checked the codes with the Ease Diagnostic professional scan suite obd2 scanner with no luck, i also already have the 04 Mazda 6 workshop manual, the engine workshop manual for AJ model engine and i also have the Alldata repair 11.53 software on my laptop. Along with a complete set of craftsman tools, air compressor, pneumatic impact wrench, jack and jack stands, a cherry picker and an engine stand but i will definitely check the sensors you mention because I have not done that yet.
:oops: Sounds like we need your help more than you need ours...

So the car won't even turn over of the EFI fuse is blown?
A blown EFI fuse will cause a crank no start condition. Apologies if I wasn't clear on that before.

I'm actually missing the passenger front abs sensor.
Well there you have it. ABS and TC problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
11.23 is waaaaay too low for the resting voltage of a 12 volt automotive battery. It should be minimum 12.2.


:oops: Sounds like we need your help more than you need ours...


A blown EFI fuse will cause a crank no start condition. Apologies if I wasn't clear on that before.


Well there you have it. ABS and TC problem solved.
Well I tried a new battery. Didn't start, I also check all my fuses, the only one blown was my number 10 fuse under the dash, I couldn't figure out which circuit that fuse belonged to only because it was getting late. I replaced it and still no luck.

I'd put money on it that it's the timing chain, either it skipped or failed tensioner. I tried to do a compression test but none of the adapters I have match the threads for the spark plug hole(i think, I just couldn't get any of them to screw in. I matched the thread pitch with my tap and die kit with one of the adapters I have but to no avail) so I couldn't compression test or leak down test it.

It's rather frustrating. I bought this car in February with my tax return and drove it a whole two months before I into this problem.

one thing I should mention is my wiring harness is in pretty bad shape. I need to pull it out and go thru and fix all the nicks in it that have happened from wear and tear over the years.
 

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With all due respect, my brother, you seem a bit more adept than you initially let on. If that be the case, why on earth did you buy this car? It sounds like it was garbage to begin with...
 

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With all due respect, my brother, you seem a bit more adept than you initially let on. If that be the case, why on earth did you buy this car? It sounds like it was garbage to begin with...
Well it was running fine when I purchased it and I didn't see the wiring harness till I unwrapped it after I bought it. But again, I made an idiotic decision. I know some about cars(although I've only worked on my Honda) but I feel I am still under educated in some areas by a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have the money now to buy the parts that I need, what should I buy if I'm replacing the timing chain, I do not want to miss anything. What should I replace while I'm in there?
 

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I have the money now to buy the parts that I need, what should I buy if I'm replacing the timing chain, I do not want to miss anything. What should I replace while I'm in there?
I would replace everything that touches the timing chain. A timing chain kit (check Amazon for those) should cover everything. On top of that, I would change the water pump too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay
I would replace everything that touches the timing chain. A timing chain kit (check Amazon for those) should cover everything. On top of that, I would change the water pump too.
Thank you. I just got the spark plug adapter that fits the engine for the leak down test and compression test yesterday. So after I do those I'll report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So here are photos of the spark plugs that I pulled when I changed them
Tire Wheel Light Automotive tire Tread


This photo is two of the three cylinders in the rear bank, I can't find the third one.

Hand Light Automotive tire Finger Clock


This is a photo of the front banks three cylinders.
These ones look healthier but correct me if I'm wrong.

There is a lot of wear on the rear banks spark plugs. I assumed because they are difficult to reach the previous owner only replaced the front banks spark plugs but that's just an assumption.

Also I used Autolite APP 5245 plugs for the replacements the sparkplugs I originally pulled that the this car is supposed to have are Autolite APP 104 as far as I've read.

Thank you for your help in advanced.
 

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These ones look healthier but correct me if I'm wrong.
Absolutely. The rear ones look like they were left on the Titanic.

There is a lot of wear on the rear banks spark plugs. I assumed because they are difficult to reach the previous owner only replaced the front banks spark plugs but that's just an assumption.
A fair assumption indeed. It seems as if the rear plugs are conventional copper plugs, while the fronts look like iridiums. If those plugs are all the same age and type then I would say that there was something going on that is only affecting the rear cylinders (like a bad cylinder head, cylinder head gasket, or something unique to that side of the V). But I highly doubt that's the case.

Also I used Autolite APP 5245 plugs for the replacements the sparkplugs I originally pulled that the this car is supposed to have are Autolite APP 104 as far as I've read.
The 5245s are double platinum and the 104s are copper. As long as the heat range is correct (not sure) and the gap is correct, then you should be fine. I've never had any problems with plugs (except for a set of Bosch platinums I melted in my Suzuki Swift GTI during a rather spirited drive one late afternoon. The cathode and anode fused together closing the gap completely. I suspect that was caused by a lean-running injector). But I digress.

Thank you. I just got the spark plug adapter that fits the engine for the leak down test and compression test yesterday. So after I do those I'll report back.
We wait patiently.
 
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