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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody played with custom tuning ?
I have few questions...
My scan tools shows that max TB position is 94%. So in fuel map TPS 0.0V = 0% and 5.0V = 100 % or 5.0V = 94% ?

PS also I found that my 6i have cable TB...

Also a question. With MAFci it possible to set RPM limit setting a -81 to a line on RPM line where you want to limit it.
Somebody used this option ? Please don't post if you don't know at 100%.
 

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the only person who has done any tuning worth mentioning for the most part, isn't really around anymore. but you should still be able to find general answers from the V6 guys if you want me to move this somewhere where they can see it too?

you just realized you have a cable??

that might be one of the issue you could be seeing as well, as it might be harder to dummy a signal that is more direct than electronic only?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
All cars in Ukraine goes with electronic TB exept small party. So all documentation mentioned that TB is electronic. Until I get to it to look by myself few days ago:)
I'll try to make some changes to cable to make it show more than 94%.

Thanks also for advise, I'll look thru 3.0 section...
 

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Anybody played with custom tuning ?
I have few questions...
My scan tools shows that max TB position is 94%. So in fuel map TPS 0.0V = 0% and 5.0V = 100 % or 5.0V = 94% ?

PS also I found that my 6i have cable TB...

Also a question. With MAFci it possible to set RPM limit setting a -81 to a line on RPM line where you want to limit it.
Somebody used this option ? Please don't post if you don't know at 100%.[/b]
If your scan tool shows max TB position of 94%, then it's reading 4.7V, which is 94% of 5.0V. Generally, it's normal for the max to not be exactly 5.0V. And actually, usually it's not 0% at idle, either.

With regards to engine limiting, putting a large negative number will essentially tell the engine that no air is available, which will cause it to cut fuel. This hasn't been officially tested and is not endorsed by myself or CPE. If you decide to try it, I'd recommend testing on a dyno before trying it on the road, as there's a possibility that it could cause a check engine light, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks a lot.
The CEL is no problem, I get them all the time from CPE install. But now no CEL at low RPM. As I worked out part of fuel map by myself. It completely different than that CPE one.
BTW I think you need to make a write-up at CPE MAFci product description that it needs "little tuning" for euro-type cars, because car stalls even at idle without normal map :)
So I'll try this at weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did a few 0-60 launches at new map. Today my rew limiter was moved to 7150rpm so I shifted at 62-63 MPH. BTW first firmware at 6i for Ukraine come with no rew limiter :)
At some places it feel going right. And at some I feel that it almost braking...

So I have a few questions for knowing people.
1- between 2.5-3sec at graph there is a acceleration fall before shift, I suspect that MAFci stops working at 6500. At 2nd gear it worse (7-8sec in graph). Do you recomend shifting at 6500 ?
2- at 5th second there is some shitty thing when car losts acceleration. Also still don't know what it is. Same thing at 11.5-12.5s. Suspect that its wrong map. Still dont know exactly is it lean or rich. Can too rich mixture decrease acceleration such like ?
3- what usual times 0-60 for 6i with cai ?
4- maybe I have wrong fuel map ? mine map from CPE add only after 4.0V TPS, its 3/4 of throttle at range 3000-6500rpm.

PS - yes... this is wheelspin at beginning. I never done 0-60 launches before, only rally racing.

[attachment=18447:acceleration6i.JPG]
 

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Well, it's really tough to say what's going on with only an acceleration graph. You really need to take it to a dyno that has a wideband O2 sensor so you can determine if you are running the right mixture of air/fuel. If you are not, it could cause loss of acceleration at some points. The dyno would also tell you when is the appropriate time to shift, since the engine may not still be making good power at 7000+ RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How can I measure air/fuel ratio in digital format and log it with RPM/TPS data ?
Dyno for me is not an answer. Because if I need it I gotta buy it :( And its much more expenses than I wish to spend at my weekend games. Maybe in future I get one. But not now.
I working at blind because system cannot get information about lean condition at high rpm.
So here is current result for 16 hours of working at map:
0-60MPH - 7.56s
1/4 - 16.09
And still that anomalous power falls remained...

[attachment=18514:11.JPG]

PS. Somebody make working that AutoEnguinity Dyno tool ? Because it shows weird numbers when I use it...
 

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If you don't have access to a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor, then you can at least buy a wideband O2 sensor and install it on your car. Most of them include the ability to log the air/fuel ratio on a laptop. Once you know the air/fuel ratio, you can properly tune the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Closest Dyno is 600km from here.
So I have no other posibilities other than buy it. I gonna search and see what I need :)
 

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....i just thought about this while i was on vacation. since you have the normal cable driven TB, that leaves a few option for upgrades for you that we can't do as well. there are 3 companies (ford focus companies) that sell upgraded TB's for the 2.3. since you have some tuning ability, that might be a good option for ya.....just incase you hadn't realized yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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yes, that would be an option, though i don't really think Cosworth would be my 1st option

250hp on an NA daily driver is going to be very hard to do. it would take aggressive cams and a lot of tuning to get in that range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Actually its nearly 300hp at 9K RPM. Or so they state.
At FI few choices, go with higher compression and low boost or low comp with higher boost
As I know at low comp high boost will be a large lag...

There is few choices to go. But for me Cosworth is known one with a long and great history. And I don't have local store or company to get it done here.
So I want to buy whole engine from them.
 

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i can do rods and pistons in my garage with a couple extra tools, it's not hard at all on this car. lower compression is going to be better for higher HP with FI, and lag as well as loss of tq off boost will come with it. i'm running 9:1 and don't see much downside as of yet. if there was tuning you might be able to go with a 9.5 or 10:1 and hold up well with 12psi or so, perhaps even more.

don't you work at/run a dealership or something if i remember? should be pretty easy to get stuff done there i'd assume. it will cost SOO much money to get the cosworth engine working in the mazda, WAY more than it would to build it yourself or throw on a turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, I owner of mazda dealership. And have mechanics to do all.
But I suspect that there is more differences in USA and Euro so I prefer to buy whole engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Tryed to make online monitoring work :

And it shows crazy numbers. For example RPM chart shows that RPM jumps from 0 to 6500 and back every second...
But black box works well. Making changes in correct TPS/RPM cell.
 

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Koya, since you're in Europe, you have the 10.5 high compression engine rite? Is that why you need to reprogram the black box? And I saw that the 6 2.3 in EU is rated at 163bhp, but in japan it's 175, but both has the 10.5. Why is that?

NA 6 has 9.7CR 2.3 and they say 160hp, 3 less than EU, why do they have to lie? And why does it still detonate with regular fuel even with the lower CR, that means I need to use premium and get less power than EU's 10.5CR engine. How is this fair? Oh well, hope CPE really improves my NA 2.3's punch.

Can anyone confirm that the 10.5 CR engine really packs more punch than the 9.7?
Cuz I see this Mazda6 2.3 auto in HK(10.5) keeping up with a Lancer EVO IX on youtube.

Does this Advanced Timing Mod http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=39020.0
help regain some of the lost power due to lowered compression?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
actually 166hp
And yes, its have more compression. And thats why I using here 98 (yours 93) octane fuel.
Also there is different cams, and clutch with flywheel, and I have cable TB...
I wanna collect all list of differences and put here... It can be useful for some people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Did some changes in map.
0-60 in 7.3s

PS
How often do you clean air filter at CPE CAI ?
Because I have 2.5K km and its dirty. Even after I closed that holes in fender.
I even considering cut few inches of tube and settle it higher.
 
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